Skin science article
Estée Lauder Perfectionist Pro Rapid Firm + Lift Treatment with Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 Versus BYOMA Moisturizing Gel-Cream
Estée Lauder Perfectionist Pro Rapid Firm + Lift Treatment with Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 Versus BYOMA Moisturizing Gel-Cream This anti-aging serum is formulated around Acetyl Glucosamine and Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 to soften the look of wrinkles. This barrier-repair
Estée Lauder Perfectionist Pro Rapid Firm + Lift Treatment with Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 Versus BYOMA Moisturizing Gel-Cream
This anti-aging serum is formulated around Acetyl Glucosamine and Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 to soften the look of wrinkles.
This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Niacinamide and Ceramide NP to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrate skin.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Dimethicone
Butylene Glycol
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Glycerin
Bis-PEG-18 Methyl Ether Dimethyl Silane
Polysorbate 20
Lauryl PEG-9 Polydimethylsiloxyethyl Dimethicone
Polysilicone-11
Mangifera Indica Seed Butter
Phoenix Dactylifera Fruit Extract
Pisum Sativum Extract
Cucumis Sativus Fruit Extract
Crithmum Maritimum Extract
Laminaria Ochroleuca Extract
Commiphora Mukul Resin Extract
Triticum Vulgare Germ Extract
Bambusa Vulgaris Extract
Chlorella Vulgaris Extract
Laminaria Saccharina Extract
Brassica Campestris Sterols
Helianthus Annuus Seed Extract
Algae Extract
Hypnea Musciformis Extract
Sigesbeckia Orientalis Extract
Nymphaea Alba Flower Extract
Acetyl Glucosamine
Caffeine
Gelidiella Acerosa Extract
Coffea Arabica Seed Extract
Sodium Hyaluronate
Lactic Acid
Propylene Glycol Dicaprate
Saccharide Isomerate
Methyl Gluceth-20
Ethylhexylglycerin
Acrylamide/Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate Copolymer
Helianthus Annuus Seedcake
Caprylyl Glycol
Isohexadecane
Tocopheryl Acetate
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Glyceryl Polymethacrylate
Sodium Polyacrylate Starch
Squalane
Sodium PCA
Urea
Zea Mays Kernel Extract
Whey Protein
Palmaria Palmata Extract
Polysorbate 80
Acetyl Hexapeptide-8
Triolein
Hydrolyzed Rice Extract
Linoleic Acid
Trehalose
Glycine Soja Protein
Glucosamine Hcl
Phospholipids
Laminaria Digitata Extract
Hordeum Vulgare Extract
Polyquaternium-51
Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12
Ergothioneine
Aminopropyl Ascorbyl Phosphate
PEG-8
Phytosteryl Canola Glycerides
Pentylene Glycol
Oleic Acid
Palmitic Acid
Xanthan Gum
Parfum
Sodium Hydroxide
Citric Acid
Silica
Calcium Chloride
Stearic Acid
Dipropylene Glycol
Sodium Palmitoyl Proline
Disodium EDTA
BHT
Potassium Sorbate
Phenoxyethanol
Mica
CI 77891
CI 77491
CI 77492
CI 77499
Water, Dimethicone, Butylene Glycol, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Glycerin, Bis-PEG-18 Methyl Ether Dimethyl Silane, Polysorbate 20, Lauryl PEG-9 Polydimethylsiloxyethyl Dimethicone, Polysilicone-11, Mangifera Indica Seed Butter, Phoenix Dactylifera Fruit Extract, Pisum Sativum Extract, Cucumis Sativus Fruit Extract, Crithmum Maritimum Extract, Laminaria Ochroleuca Extract, Commiphora Mukul Resin Extract, Triticum Vulgare Germ Extract, Bambusa Vulgaris Extract, Chlorella Vulgaris Extract, Laminaria Saccharina Extract, Brassica Campestris Sterols, Helianthus Annuus Seed Extract, Algae Extract, Hypnea Musciformis Extract, Sigesbeckia Orientalis Extract, Nymphaea Alba Flower Extract, Acetyl Glucosamine, Caffeine, Gelidiella Acerosa Extract, Coffea Arabica Seed Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, Lactic Acid, Propylene Glycol Dicaprate, Saccharide Isomerate, Methyl Gluceth-20, Ethylhexylglycerin, Acrylamide/Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate Copolymer, Helianthus Annuus Seedcake, Caprylyl Glycol, Isohexadecane, Tocopheryl Acetate, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Glyceryl Polymethacrylate, Sodium Polyacrylate Starch, Squalane, Sodium PCA, Urea, Zea Mays Kernel Extract, Whey Protein, Palmaria Palmata Extract, Polysorbate 80, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Triolein, Hydrolyzed Rice Extract, Linoleic Acid, Trehalose, Glycine Soja Protein, Glucosamine Hcl, Phospholipids, Laminaria Digitata Extract, Hordeum Vulgare Extract, Polyquaternium-51, Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12, Ergothioneine, Aminopropyl Ascorbyl Phosphate, PEG-8, Phytosteryl Canola Glycerides, Pentylene Glycol, Oleic Acid, Palmitic Acid, Xanthan Gum, Parfum, Sodium Hydroxide, Citric Acid, Silica, Calcium Chloride, Stearic Acid, Dipropylene Glycol, Sodium Palmitoyl Proline, Disodium EDTA, BHT, Potassium Sorbate, Phenoxyethanol, Mica, CI 77891, CI 77491, CI 77492, CI 77499
Pentaerythrityl Tetraethylhexanoate
Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate
Niacinamide
Ceramide NP
Cholesterol
Phytosphingosine
Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
Hydrogenated Lecithin
Cetearyl Alcohol
Panthenol
Carbomer
Tromethamine
1,2-Hexanediol
Hydroxyacetophenone
Caprylhydroxamic Acid
Water, Glycerin, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Pentaerythrityl Tetraethylhexanoate, Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate, Niacinamide, Ceramide NP, Cholesterol, Phytosphingosine, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Stearic Acid, Oleic Acid, Lactic Acid, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Cetearyl Alcohol, Panthenol, Carbomer, Xanthan Gum, Tromethamine, 1,2-Hexanediol, Caprylyl Glycol, Hydroxyacetophenone, Caprylhydroxamic Acid
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Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.
Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.
In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.
While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.
Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.
This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.
This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.
Caprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.
Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.
Because it is not a free-fatty acid, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Lactic Acid is another well-loved alpha hydroxy acid (AHA). It is gentler than glycolic acid but still highly effective.
Its main role is to exfoliate the surface of the skin by loosening the “glue” that holds dead skin cells together. Shedding those old cells leads to smoother, softer, and more even-toned skin.
Because lactic acid molecules are larger than glycolic acid, they don’t penetrate as deeply. This means they’re less likely to sting or irritate, making it a great choice for beginners or those with sensitive skin.
Like glycolic acid, it can:
Lactic acid also acts as a humectant (like hyaluronic acid). It can draw water into the skin to improve hydration and also plays a role in the skin's natural moisturizing factor (NMF) in the form of sodium lactate.
Studies show it can boost ceramide production to strengthen the skin barrier and even help balance the skin’s microbiome.
To get results, choose products with a pH between 3-4.
Lower strengths (5-12%) focus on surface exfoliation; higher strengths (12% and up) can reach deeper in the dermis (deeper, supportive layer) to improve skin texture and firmness over time.
Though it was originally derived from milk, most modern lactic acid used in skincare is vegan. It is made through non-dairy fermentation to create a bio-identical and stable form suitable for all formulations.
When lactic acid shows up near the end of an ingredient list, it usually means the brand added just a tiny amount to adjust the product’s pH.
Legend has it that Cleopatra used to bathe in sour milk to help reduce wrinkles.
Lactic acid is truly a gentle multitasker: it exfoliates, hydrates, strengthens, and brightens. It's a great ingredient for giving your skin a smooth, glowing, and healthy look without the harshness of stronger acids.
Read more about some other popular AHA's here:
Oleic Acid is an Omega-9 fatty acid that can be found naturally in your skin's sebum and in many plant oils such as avocado and olive oil.
It is an emollient that helps soften skin and prevent moisture loss.
Research shows:
A 1998 study did find that applying oleic acid at higher concentrations may cause irritation and disrupt the skin barrier. Modern formulations typically use low levels that is well-tolerated.
The culprit behind fungal acne, the Malassezia yeast, feeds on fatty acids with carbon chain lengths between C11-C24. Oleic Acid, at C18, falls right into that sweet spot.
In vitro studies have shown that Oleic Acid is one of the fatty acids that induce rapid Malassezia growth in lab settings.
Stearic Acid is a fatty acid that is already found in your skin. It's one of the free fatty acids that works alongside ceramides and cholesterols to maintain your barrier.
In cosmetics, it is a multitasker:
Safety-wise, the CIR Expert Panel has concluded it to be safe in cosmetics when formulated to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing.
Free stearic acid is a C18 fatty acid that the Malassezia yeast can substrate, so this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Xanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.
On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.
Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.