Estée Lauder Perfectionist Pro Rapid Firm + Lift Treatment with Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 Versus Charlotte Tilbury Magic Cream Moisturizer

Estée Lauder Perfectionist Pro Rapid Firm + Lift Treatment with Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 Versus Charlotte Tilbury Magic Cream Moisturizer

This anti-aging serum is formulated around Acetyl Glucosamine and Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 to soften the look of wrinkles.

This anti-aging moisturizer is formulated around Butyrospermum Parkii Butter and Sodium Hyaluronate to soften the look of wrinkles and hydrate skin.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Dimethicone

Butylene Glycol

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Glycerin

Bis-PEG-18 Methyl Ether Dimethyl Silane

Polysorbate 20

Lauryl PEG-9 Polydimethylsiloxyethyl Dimethicone

Polysilicone-11

Mangifera Indica Seed Butter

Phoenix Dactylifera Fruit Extract

Pisum Sativum Extract

Cucumis Sativus Fruit Extract

Crithmum Maritimum Extract

Laminaria Ochroleuca Extract

Commiphora Mukul Resin Extract

Triticum Vulgare Germ Extract

Bambusa Vulgaris Extract

Chlorella Vulgaris Extract

Laminaria Saccharina Extract

Brassica Campestris Sterols

Helianthus Annuus Seed Extract

Algae Extract

Hypnea Musciformis Extract

Sigesbeckia Orientalis Extract

Nymphaea Alba Flower Extract

Acetyl Glucosamine

Caffeine

Gelidiella Acerosa Extract

Coffea Arabica Seed Extract

Sodium Hyaluronate

Lactic Acid

Propylene Glycol Dicaprate

Saccharide Isomerate

Methyl Gluceth-20

Ethylhexylglycerin

Acrylamide/Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate Copolymer

Helianthus Annuus Seedcake

Caprylyl Glycol

Isohexadecane

Tocopheryl Acetate

Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer

Glyceryl Polymethacrylate

Sodium Polyacrylate Starch

Squalane

Sodium PCA

Urea

Zea Mays Kernel Extract

Whey Protein

Palmaria Palmata Extract

Polysorbate 80

Acetyl Hexapeptide-8

Triolein

Hydrolyzed Rice Extract

Linoleic Acid

Trehalose

Glycine Soja Protein

Glucosamine Hcl

Phospholipids

Laminaria Digitata Extract

Hordeum Vulgare Extract

Polyquaternium-51

Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12

Ergothioneine

Aminopropyl Ascorbyl Phosphate

PEG-8

Phytosteryl Canola Glycerides

Pentylene Glycol

Oleic Acid

Palmitic Acid

Xanthan Gum

Parfum

Sodium Hydroxide

Citric Acid

Silica

Calcium Chloride

Stearic Acid

Dipropylene Glycol

Sodium Palmitoyl Proline

Disodium EDTA

BHT

Potassium Sorbate

Phenoxyethanol

Mica

CI 77891

CI 77491

CI 77492

CI 77499

Water, Dimethicone, Butylene Glycol, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Glycerin, Bis-PEG-18 Methyl Ether Dimethyl Silane, Polysorbate 20, Lauryl PEG-9 Polydimethylsiloxyethyl Dimethicone, Polysilicone-11, Mangifera Indica Seed Butter, Phoenix Dactylifera Fruit Extract, Pisum Sativum Extract, Cucumis Sativus Fruit Extract, Crithmum Maritimum Extract, Laminaria Ochroleuca Extract, Commiphora Mukul Resin Extract, Triticum Vulgare Germ Extract, Bambusa Vulgaris Extract, Chlorella Vulgaris Extract, Laminaria Saccharina Extract, Brassica Campestris Sterols, Helianthus Annuus Seed Extract, Algae Extract, Hypnea Musciformis Extract, Sigesbeckia Orientalis Extract, Nymphaea Alba Flower Extract, Acetyl Glucosamine, Caffeine, Gelidiella Acerosa Extract, Coffea Arabica Seed Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, Lactic Acid, Propylene Glycol Dicaprate, Saccharide Isomerate, Methyl Gluceth-20, Ethylhexylglycerin, Acrylamide/Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate Copolymer, Helianthus Annuus Seedcake, Caprylyl Glycol, Isohexadecane, Tocopheryl Acetate, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Glyceryl Polymethacrylate, Sodium Polyacrylate Starch, Squalane, Sodium PCA, Urea, Zea Mays Kernel Extract, Whey Protein, Palmaria Palmata Extract, Polysorbate 80, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Triolein, Hydrolyzed Rice Extract, Linoleic Acid, Trehalose, Glycine Soja Protein, Glucosamine Hcl, Phospholipids, Laminaria Digitata Extract, Hordeum Vulgare Extract, Polyquaternium-51, Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12, Ergothioneine, Aminopropyl Ascorbyl Phosphate, PEG-8, Phytosteryl Canola Glycerides, Pentylene Glycol, Oleic Acid, Palmitic Acid, Xanthan Gum, Parfum, Sodium Hydroxide, Citric Acid, Silica, Calcium Chloride, Stearic Acid, Dipropylene Glycol, Sodium Palmitoyl Proline, Disodium EDTA, BHT, Potassium Sorbate, Phenoxyethanol, Mica, CI 77891, CI 77491, CI 77492, CI 77499

C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate

Glyceryl Stearate Se

Isononyl Isononanoate

Cetyl Alcohol

Ethylhexyl Palmitate

Cyclopentasiloxane

Polyester-7

Neopentyl Glycol Diheptanoate

Hydrogenated Rapeseed Oil

Butyrospermum Parkii Butter

Steareth-21

Avena Sativa Kernel Extract

Carbomer

Dimethiconol

Potassium Cetyl Phosphate

Chlorphenesin

Hydrolyzed Viola Tricolor Extract

Allantoin

Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice Powder

Camellia Oleifera Seed Oil

Rosa Canina Fruit Oil

Rosa Damascena Extract

Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil

Michelia Alba Leaf Oil

Sodium Lactate

Coco-Glucoside

Tocopherol

Ascorbyl Palmitate

Plumeria Rubra Flower Extract

Ascorbic Acid

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1

Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7

Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein

Citronellol

Geraniol

Linalool

Water, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Glyceryl Stearate Se, Butylene Glycol, Glycerin, Isononyl Isononanoate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Cetyl Alcohol, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Cyclopentasiloxane, Dimethicone, Polyester-7, Phenoxyethanol, Neopentyl Glycol Diheptanoate, Hydrogenated Rapeseed Oil, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Steareth-21, Avena Sativa Kernel Extract, Carbomer, Dimethiconol, Potassium Cetyl Phosphate, Chlorphenesin, Caprylyl Glycol, Xanthan Gum, Hydrolyzed Viola Tricolor Extract, Allantoin, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice Powder, Disodium EDTA, Tocopheryl Acetate, Camellia Oleifera Seed Oil, Rosa Canina Fruit Oil, Rosa Damascena Extract, Sodium Hydroxide, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Michelia Alba Leaf Oil, Sodium Lactate, PEG-8, Ethylhexylglycerin, Coco-Glucoside, Sodium Hyaluronate, Tocopherol, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Plumeria Rubra Flower Extract, Ascorbic Acid, Citric Acid, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein, Citronellol, Geraniol, Linalool

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Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:

Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.

Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.

Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.

In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.

While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.

Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.

This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.

This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.

Caprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.

Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.

Because it is not a free-fatty acid, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).

Citric Acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) naturally found in citrus fruits like oranges, lemons, and limes.

Like other AHAs, citric acid can exfoliate skin by breaking down the bonds that hold dead skin cells together. This helps reveal smoother and brighter skin underneath.

However, this exfoliating effect only happens at high concentrations (20%) which can be hard to find in cosmetic products.

Due to this, citric acid is usually included in small amounts as a pH adjuster. This helps keep products slightly more acidic and compatible with skin's natural pH.

In skincare formulas, citric acid can:

While it can provide some skin benefits, research shows lactic acid and glycolic acid are generally more effective and less irritating exfoliants.

Most citric acid used in skincare today is made by fermenting sugars (usually from molasses). This synthetic version is identical to the natural citrus form but easier to stabilize and use in formulations.

Rosacea skin has a lower threshold for acids generally, with 62.5% of rosacea subjects in one study reacting to lactic acid in a sting test. This is why we mark citric acid as a potential rosacea trigger.

However, this ingredient shows up as a pH adjuster or chelator at roughly 0.1-1% in many products. These low levels are unlikely to be an issue for rosacea skin and becomes a potential trigger at exfoliating concentrations (20%). Because everybody's skin is unique, we recommend a patch test if you are unsure.

Dimethicone is a type of synthetic silicone created from natural materials such as quartz. It is also known as polydimethylsiloxane.

What it does:

Dimethicone comes in different viscosities:

Depending on the viscosity, dimethicone has different properties.

Ingredients lists don't always show which type is used, so we recommend reaching out to the brand if you have questions about the viscosity.

This ingredient is unlikely to cause irritation because it does not get absorbed into skin. However, people with silicone allergies should be careful about using this ingredient.

Note: Dimethicone may contribute to pilling. This is because it is not oil or water soluble, so pilling may occur when layered with products. When mixed with heavy oils in a formula, the outcome is also quite greasy.

Disodium EDTA is a chelating agent. It grabs onto and deactivates metal ions that sneak into your products from water, packaging, or air.

This ingredient mainly works behind the scenes and helps with:

On top of that, this ingredient can counteract the effects of hard water by binding to the minerals in it.

One thing worth knowing is that Disodium EDTA has been shown to be a mild penetration enhancer. It can help other ingredients absorb into skin more effectively which can be a double-edged sword (great for actives, but can also make the active too strong if you have sensitive skin).

Clinical patch testing showed no significant skin irritation at typical use concentrations and minimal dermal absorption.

You'll most likely see this ingredient near the end of an ingredient list. It's typically found in concentrations less than 1%.

Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:

The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.

Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

PEG-8 is a synthetic polymer used as a humectant and solvent.

This ingredient is able to help dissolve active ingredients, including water. This gives it humectant properties.

It is soluble in water. The number '8' stands for the molecular weight of the ingredient.

Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).

It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.

On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.

Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).

You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.

Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.

Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.

Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.

Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.

In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.

Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:

Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.

Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.

You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.

Sodium Hydroxide is also known as lye or caustic soda. It is used to adjust the pH of products; many ingredients require a specific pH to be effective.

In small amounts, sodium hydroxide is considered safe to use. However, large amounts may cause chemical burns due to its high alkaline.

Your skin has a natural pH and acid mantle. This acid mantle helps prevent harmful bacteria from breaking through. The acid mantle also helps keep your skin hydrated.

"Alkaline" refers to a high pH level. A low pH level would be considered acidic.

Tocopheryl Acetate is a stable, shelf-friendly form of vitamin E.

Formulators love it because plain vitamin E oxidizes quickly once it hits air. This acetate version stays stable and resists going off, helping to extend a product's shelf life.

It's actually inactive on its own and works like a slow-release "storage" form; the enzymes in your skin called esterases gradually convert it into active vitamin E over time.

One in vivo study showed 5% of the acetate in the living layer of the epidermis converted to vitamin E after 5 days of application. This study also found the skin gained protection against UV damage even though the conversion was slow and small.

Once converted, vitamin E acts as a skin's main fat-soluble antioxidant that fights free radicals to protect skin from damage.

Topical vitamin E generally boosts the skin's photoprotection, and it reduced UV-damage in animal models.

This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.

Overall, it has a pretty solid safety profile and has been found to be non-irritating and non-comedogenic. Allergic reactions may happen but stay rare due to how widely the ingredient gets used.

The concentration will vary depending on the formula; industry data shows 0.1% in baby lotions, 3% in lipsticks, and 5% in foot powders. You can also find this ingredient at 100% in a pure vitamin E oil.

Most leave-on skincare keeps it at the lower end, often between 0.5-1%.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

Xanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.

On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.

Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.

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