Skin science article
Exuviance Resurfacing Glycolic Wash Versus PCA Skin BPO 5% Cleanser
Exuviance Resurfacing Glycolic Wash Versus PCA Skin BPO 5% Cleanser This glycolic acid gel cleanser is formulated around Glycolic Acid to exfoliate and smooth skin. This benzoyl peroxide foaming cleanser is formulated around Benzoyl Peroxide to clear breakouts
Exuviance Resurfacing Glycolic Wash Versus PCA Skin BPO 5% Cleanser
This glycolic acid gel cleanser is formulated around Glycolic Acid to exfoliate and smooth skin.
This benzoyl peroxide foaming cleanser is formulated around Benzoyl Peroxide to clear breakouts and help reduce acne-causing bacteria.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Glycolic Acid
PEG-8
Alcohol Denat.
Arginine
Sodium C14-16 Olefin Sulfonate
Sodium Hydroxide
Lactobionic Acid
Cocamidopropyl Betaine
Citrus Grandis Peel Oil
Polysorbate 20
Propylene Glycol
Caprylyl Glycol
Phenoxyethanol
Chlorphenesin
Limonene
Water, Glycolic Acid, PEG-8, Alcohol Denat., Arginine, Sodium C14-16 Olefin Sulfonate, Sodium Hydroxide, Lactobionic Acid, Cocamidopropyl Betaine, Citrus Grandis Peel Oil, Polysorbate 20, Propylene Glycol, Caprylyl Glycol, Phenoxyethanol, Chlorphenesin, Limonene
Benzoyl Peroxide 5%
Gluconolactone
Aminomethyl Propanol
Glycerin
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Polyacrylate-13
Polyisobutene
Ethylhexylglycerin
Hexylene Glycol
Allantoin
Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
Tocopheryl Acetate
Triticum Vulgare Germ Oil
Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice
Panthenol
Sodium PCA
Butylene Glycol
Phytic Acid
Algae Extract
Anthemis Nobilis Flower Extract
Arnica Montana Flower Extract
Cucumis Sativus Fruit Extract
Vitis Vinifera Seed Extract
Benzoyl Peroxide 5%, Water, Gluconolactone, Sodium C14-16 Olefin Sulfonate, Aminomethyl Propanol, Glycerin, Cocamidopropyl Betaine, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Phenoxyethanol, Polyacrylate-13, Citrus Grandis Peel Oil, Polyisobutene, Caprylyl Glycol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Hexylene Glycol, Allantoin, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Tocopheryl Acetate, Triticum Vulgare Germ Oil, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Panthenol, Sodium PCA, Polysorbate 20, Butylene Glycol, Phytic Acid, Algae Extract, Anthemis Nobilis Flower Extract, Arnica Montana Flower Extract, Cucumis Sativus Fruit Extract, Vitis Vinifera Seed Extract
Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Caprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.
Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.
Because it is not a free-fatty acid, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).
Citrus Grandis Peel Oil is an essential oil that is derived from the peel of a Grapefruit. It is composed largely of limonene, which is a fragrance that can cause irritation for sensitive skin.
Cocamidopropyl Betaine is a fatty acid created by mixing similar compounds in coconut oil and dimethylaminopropylamine, a compound with two amino groups.
This ingredient is a surfactant and cleanser. It helps gather the dirt, pollutants, and other impurities in your skin to be washed away. It also helps thicken a product and make the texture more creamy.
Being created from coconut oil means Cocamidopropyl Betaine is hydrating for the skin.
While Cocamidopropyl Betaine was believed to be an allergen, a study from 2012 disproved this. It found two compounds in unpure Cocamidopropyl Betaine to be the irritants: aminoamide and 3-dimethylaminopropylamine. High-grade and pure Cocamidopropyl Betaine did not induce allergic reactions during this study.
Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).
It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.
On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.
Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).
You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.
Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.
Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.
Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.
Polysorbate 20 is a gentle, water-soluble emulsifier and mild surfactant. It stops oil and water from separating to keep your formulas blended and stable.
It also acts as a mild penetration enhancer by helping active ingredients absorb slightly better.
The common safety discussion around this ingredient involves a manufacturing byproduct called 1,4-dioxane.
Trace amounts can form during production but the EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety has concluded that levels at/below 10 ppm in finished products are safe (commercial products consistently fall within acceptable margins).
True allergic reactions are uncommon and the CIR Expert Panel has confirmed this ingredient to be safe as used in cosmetics.
Because it is derived from lauric acid, it may not be fungal acne safe.
Sodium C14-16 Olefin Sulfonate is a surfactant that helps water and oil mix so that dirt, sweat, sebum, and sunscreen can rinse away easily. It's not technically a sulfate, but behaves similarly in formulas.
What it does:
Sodium C14-16 Olefin Sulfonate is a strong cleansing surfactant and is much stronger than many mild cleansers. Because it works deeply, it can disrupt the skin's barrier. This can lead to dryness or irritation for those with sensitive skin.
Compared to gentler surfactants, it's effective but more likely to dry or irritate if not balanced with soothing ingredients.
CIR considers sodium α-olefin sulfonates (including C14-16) to be safe for use in rinse-off products when properly formulated. It is poorly absorbed through normal skin but absorption increases if the skin barrier is already damaged.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!