Peptide Skincare & BeautySkin science and ingredient guides

Skin science article

Face Reality Skincare Antioxidant Peptide serum Versus SkinBetter Science Alto Defense Serum

Face Reality Skincare Antioxidant Peptide serum Versus SkinBetter Science Alto Defense Serum This anti-aging serum is formulated around Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38 to soften the look of wrinkles and refine skin texture. This calming serum is formulated around Glyc

Face Reality Skincare Antioxidant Peptide serum Versus SkinBetter Science Alto Defense Serum

This anti-aging serum is formulated around Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38 to soften the look of wrinkles and refine skin texture.

This calming serum is formulated around Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract and Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate to calm redness and brighten dull-looking skin.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Glycerin

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Phenoxyethanol

Sclerotium Gum

Xanthan Gum

Polyglyceryl-4 Caprate

Benzyl Alcohol

Sodium Gluconate

Caprylhydroxamic Acid

Ethylhexylglycerin

Acetyl Tributyl Citrate

Methylglucoside Phosphate

Copper Lysinate/Prolinate

Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin

Pichia/Resveratrol Ferment Extract

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38

Phenyl T-Butylnitrone

Water, Glycerin, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Phenoxyethanol, Sclerotium Gum, Xanthan Gum, Polyglyceryl-4 Caprate, Benzyl Alcohol, Sodium Gluconate, Caprylhydroxamic Acid, Ethylhexylglycerin, Acetyl Tributyl Citrate, Methylglucoside Phosphate, Copper Lysinate/Prolinate, Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin, Pichia/Resveratrol Ferment Extract, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38, Phenyl T-Butylnitrone

Butylene Glycol

Propanediol

Ethylhexyl Olivate

Cetearyl Alcohol

Chlorogenic Acids

Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate

Lauryl Lactate

Dimethyl Isosorbide

Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract

Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate

Ergothioneine

Benzylidene Dimethoxydimethylindanone

Arabidopsis Thaliana Extract

Carnosine

Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract

Vitis Vinifera Seed Extract

Theobroma Cacao Seed Extract

Curcuma Longa Root Extract

Olea Europaea Fruit Extract

Euterpe Oleracea Fruit Extract

Trifluoroacetyl Tripeptide-2

Buddleja Officinalis Flower Extract

Coffea Arabica Leaf Cell Extract

Crocus Sativus Leaf Cell Culture Extract

Superoxide Dismutase

Ubiquinone

Zingiber Officinale Root Extract

Ceramide NP

Ceramide AP

Ceramide EOP

Linoleic Acid

Linolenic Acid

Sea Whip Extract

Bisabolol

Tocopherol

Tocopheryl Acetate

Cholesterol

Phytosphingosine

Jojoba Esters

Sodium PCA

Pentylene Glycol

Methyl Gluceth-20

Helianthus Annuus Seed Wax

Acacia Decurrens Flower Wax

Lecithin

Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate

Dicetyl Phosphate

Propanediol Dicaprylate/Caprate

Polyglycerin-3

Ceteth-20 Phosphate

Diisostearyl Malate

Steareth-2

Acacia Senegal Gum

Carbomer

Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer

Dextran

Sodium Hydroxide

Citric Acid

Disodium EDTA

Water, Butylene Glycol, Propanediol, Ethylhexyl Olivate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Chlorogenic Acids, Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate, Lauryl Lactate, Dimethyl Isosorbide, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Ergothioneine, Benzylidene Dimethoxydimethylindanone, Arabidopsis Thaliana Extract, Carnosine, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Vitis Vinifera Seed Extract, Theobroma Cacao Seed Extract, Curcuma Longa Root Extract, Olea Europaea Fruit Extract, Euterpe Oleracea Fruit Extract, Trifluoroacetyl Tripeptide-2, Buddleja Officinalis Flower Extract, Coffea Arabica Leaf Cell Extract, Crocus Sativus Leaf Cell Culture Extract, Superoxide Dismutase, Ubiquinone, Zingiber Officinale Root Extract, Ceramide NP, Ceramide AP, Ceramide EOP, Linoleic Acid, Linolenic Acid, Sea Whip Extract, Bisabolol, Tocopherol, Tocopheryl Acetate, Cholesterol, Phytosphingosine, Jojoba Esters, Sodium PCA, Pentylene Glycol, Methyl Gluceth-20, Glycerin, Helianthus Annuus Seed Wax, Acacia Decurrens Flower Wax, Lecithin, Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate, Dicetyl Phosphate, Propanediol Dicaprylate/Caprate, Polyglycerin-3, Ceteth-20 Phosphate, Diisostearyl Malate, Xanthan Gum, Steareth-2, Acacia Senegal Gum, Carbomer, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Dextran, Sodium Hydroxide, Citric Acid, Disodium EDTA, Ethylhexylglycerin, Phenoxyethanol

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:

The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.

Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).

It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.

On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.

Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).

You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.

Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.

Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.

Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

Xanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.

On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.

Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.

Similar Comparisons

The reference edit

Ingredients, questions
& further reading.

Connected source records selected through this article’s public topic index.

01

Formula cabinet

Ingredients & structured notes

Ingredient index

Umoua Advanced Extraction Liposome Tech Peptide SerumIngredients explained

  1. 01Good old water, aka H2O. The most common skincare ingredient of all. You can usually find it right in the very first spot of the ingredient list, meaning it’s the biggest thing out of all the stuff that makes up the product.
  2. 02It’s mainly a solvent for ingredients that do not like to dissolve in oils but rather in water.
  3. 03Expand to read more
  4. 04Once inside the skin, it hydrates, but not from the outside - putting pure water on the skin (hello long baths!) is drying.
  5. 05One more thing: the water used in cosmetics is purified and deionized (it means that almost all of the mineral ions inside it is removed). Like this, the products can stay more stable over time.
  6. 06A natural moisturizer that’s also in our skin
  7. 07A super common, safe, effective and cheap molecule used for more than 50 years
  8. 08Not only a simple moisturizer but knows much more: keeps the skin lipids between our skin cells in a healthy (liquid crystal) state, protects against irritation, helps to restore barrier
  9. 09Effective from as low as 3% with even more benefits for dry skin at higher concentrations up to 20-40%
  10. 10High-glycerin moisturizers are awesome for treating severely dry skin
  11. 11A really famous peptide that is part of Matrixyl 3000, the most sold peptide complex in the word. Before we go and find out what the big deal with Matrixyl 3000 is, let's just focus on Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 itself for a bit.
  12. 12It's a small three amino acid (they are the building blocks of all proteins) peptide with the amino sequence of glycine-histidine-lysine, or GHK. GHK is attached to palmitic acid (a fatty acid) to increase oil solubility and skin penetration.
  13. 13The GHK part is the important one as it's a type I collagen fragment. When collagen naturally breaks down in the skin, the resulting peptide fragments signal to the skin that it should get to work and create some nice, new collagen. Adding in collag…
  14. 14Therefore, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 is believed to be able to stimulate collagen production in the skin, and more collagen means fewer wrinkles and younger looking skin.
  15. 15In Matrixyl 3000, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 is coupled with Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7 and the duo works in synergy to reduce wrinkles and give younger looking skin. According to the manufacturer's in-vivo (made on real people) test, applying 3% Matrixyl…
  16. 1639.4% reduction in surface occupied by deep wrinkles
  17. 1732.9% reduction in main wrinkle density
  18. 1819.9% reduction in main wrinkle average depth
  19. 1916% improvement in roughness
  20. 2016.2% in lifting effect
Source · incidecoder.com
02

Product index

Related product references

Product

Olival Proffesional Peptide Serum

Olival Proffesional Peptide Serum Olival Proffesional Peptide Serum ingredients explained: Aqua, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Glycerin, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Palm…

Source: incidecoder.comView reference →
03

Comparison edit

Read side by side