Peptide Skincare & BeautySkin science and ingredient guides

Skin science article

Face Reality Skincare Hydracalm Mask Versus Face Reality Skincare Cran-Peptide Cream

Face Reality Skincare Hydracalm Mask Versus Face Reality Skincare Cran-Peptide Cream This wash off mask is made with Squalane and Bisabolol for a rinse-off hydration boost. This anti-aging moisturizer is formulated around Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38 to soften the

Face Reality Skincare Hydracalm Mask Versus Face Reality Skincare Cran-Peptide Cream

This wash off mask is made with Squalane and Bisabolol for a rinse-off hydration boost.

This anti-aging moisturizer is formulated around Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38 to soften the look of wrinkles and refine skin texture.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Glycerin

Propanediol

Butylene Glycol

Pentylene Glycol

Squalane

Carbomer

Lonicera Japonica Flower Extract

Hydroxypropyl Starch Phosphate

Benzyl Alcohol

Hydrolyzed Jojoba Esters

Lonicera Caprifolium Flower Extract

Alcohol Denat.

Agave Tequilana Leaf Extract

Bisabolol

Allantoin

Sodium Gluconate

Caprylhydroxamic Acid

Totarol

Sodium Hyaluronate

Mirabilis Jalapa Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract

Phenethyl Alcohol

Caprylyl Glycol

Potassium Sorbate

Beta-Glucan

Water, Glycerin, Propanediol, Butylene Glycol, Pentylene Glycol, Squalane, Carbomer, Lonicera Japonica Flower Extract, Hydroxypropyl Starch Phosphate, Benzyl Alcohol, Hydrolyzed Jojoba Esters, Lonicera Caprifolium Flower Extract, Alcohol Denat., Agave Tequilana Leaf Extract, Bisabolol, Allantoin, Sodium Gluconate, Caprylhydroxamic Acid, Totarol, Sodium Hyaluronate, Mirabilis Jalapa Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract, Phenethyl Alcohol, Caprylyl Glycol, Potassium Sorbate, Beta-Glucan

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Coco-Caprylate/Caprate

Cetyl Alcohol

Stearyl Alcohol

Cetearyl Olivate

Sorbitan Olivate

Phenoxyethanol

Xanthan Gum

Tocopheryl Acetate

Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice Powder

Ethylhexylglycerin

Eclipta Prostrata Extract

Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract

Methylglucoside Phosphate

Copper Lysinate/Prolinate

Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin

Moringa Oleifera Seed Extract

Vaccinium Macrocarpon Fruit Extract

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38

Maltodextrin

Syringa Vulgaris Leaf Cell Culture Extract

Hamamelis Virginiana Extract

Water, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Cetyl Alcohol, Glycerin, Stearyl Alcohol, Cetearyl Olivate, Alcohol Denat., Sorbitan Olivate, Phenoxyethanol, Xanthan Gum, Caprylyl Glycol, Tocopheryl Acetate, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice Powder, Totarol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Eclipta Prostrata Extract, Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract, Methylglucoside Phosphate, Copper Lysinate/Prolinate, Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin, Moringa Oleifera Seed Extract, Vaccinium Macrocarpon Fruit Extract, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38, Maltodextrin, Syringa Vulgaris Leaf Cell Culture Extract, Hamamelis Virginiana Extract, Butylene Glycol

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Alcohol Denat. is an alcohol with a denaturant property. It is created by mixing ethanol with other additives.

The "denat" part just means "denatured"; common denaturants include Denatonium Benzoate, t-butyl alcohol, and Diethyl Phthalate. This step makes the alcohol undrinkable (and lets brand skip taxes related to beverage alcohol).

This ingredient gets a bad rep because it is irritating and drying due to its astringent property. Astringents draw out natural oils in tissue to constrict pores and dry out your skin.

However, alcohol denat. is not all that bad.

Due to its low molecular weight, alcohol denat. tends to evaporate quickly. One study on pig skin found half of applied alcohol evaporated in 10 seconds and less than 3% stayed on skin.

This also helps other ingredients become better absorbed upon application.

Studies are conflicted about whether this ingredient causes skin dehydration. One study from 2005 found adding emollients to propanol-based sanitizer decreased skin dryness and irritation. Another study found irritation only occurs if your skin is already damaged.

Small amounts of alcohol are generally tolerated by oily skin or people who live in humid environments.

The rule of thumb is this ingredient will probably not affect your skin much if it is near the end of an ingredients list.

One thing to note: People with ALDH2 (aldehyde dehydrogenase 2) deficiency may experience skin irritation from continued alcohol use. About 8% of the world's population have this deficiency.

The Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has determined denatured alcohols to be safe for use in concentrations between 0.05% and 12% (depending on which denaturant is used).

Also...

This ingredient has antimicrobial and solvent properties.

The antimicrobial property helps preserve products and increase their shelf life. As a solvent, it helps dissolve other ingredients.

Look for formulas that contain glycerin, hyaluronic acid, or panthenol if you want to offset any drying effect.

This ingredient will trip away your skin's natural oils/lipids that help it lock in moisture. This can worsen dryness, trigger eczema flare-ups, and aggravate rosacea.

Be sure to patch test any product with this ingredient if you have dry or sensitive skin, eczema, or rosacea.

Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:

Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.

Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.

Caprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.

Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.

Because it is not a free-fatty acid, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Totarol is an antioxidant.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

Similar Comparisons

The reference edit

Ingredients, questions
& further reading.

Connected source records selected through this article’s public topic index.

01

Formula cabinet

Ingredients & structured notes

Ingredient index

Ingredients Side-by-side

  1. 01Water
  2. 02Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
  3. 03Coco-Caprylate/Caprate
  4. 04Cetyl Alcohol
  5. 05Glycerin
  6. 06Stearyl Alcohol
  7. 07Cetearyl Olivate
  8. 08Alcohol Denat.
  9. 09Sorbitan Olivate
  10. 10Phenoxyethanol
  11. 11Xanthan Gum
  12. 12Caprylyl Glycol
  13. 13Tocopheryl Acetate
  14. 14Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice Powder
  15. 15Totarol
  16. 16Ethylhexylglycerin
  17. 17Eclipta Prostrata Extract
  18. 18Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract
  19. 19Methylglucoside Phosphate
  20. 20Copper Lysinate/Prolinate
Source · skinsort.com
02

Product index

Related product references

03

Comparison edit

Read side by side