Skin science article
Filorga Sleep And Peel Micro-Peeling Night Cream Versus Paula's Choice 2% BHA Lotion Exfoliant
Filorga Sleep And Peel Micro-Peeling Night Cream Versus Paula's Choice 2% BHA Lotion Exfoliant This smoothing treatment is formulated around Glycolic Acid and Azelaic Acid to refine skin texture and brighten dull-looking skin. This smoothing exfoliator is form
Filorga Sleep And Peel Micro-Peeling Night Cream Versus Paula's Choice 2% BHA Lotion Exfoliant
This smoothing treatment is formulated around Glycolic Acid and Azelaic Acid to refine skin texture and brighten dull-looking skin.
This smoothing exfoliator is formulated around Salicylic Acid and Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract to refine skin texture and refine the look of pores.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Butylene Glycol
Glycolic Acid
Propylene Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate
Cetearyl Alcohol
Dimethicone
Glycol Palmitate
Isononyl Isononanoate
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Glycerin
Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
Sodium Hydroxide
Pseudoalteromonas Ferment Extract
Phenoxyethanol
Ceteareth-20
Parfum
Hydrolyzed Wheat Flour
Lauroyl Lysine
Sucrose Palmitate
Sodium Lactate
Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice Powder
Tocopheryl Acetate
Azelaic Acid
Laminaria Ochroleuca Extract
Salicylic Acid
Polysorbate 60
Sorbitan Isostearate
Glyceryl Linoleate
Citric Acid
Sodium PCA
Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil
Sodium Chloride
Carbomer
Lactic Acid
Malic Acid
Phytic Acid
Polysorbate 20
Sodium Salicylate
Glucose
Sodium Hyaluronate
Pyruvic Acid
Tartaric Acid
Potassium Chloride
Potassium Sorbate
Calcium Chloride
Magnesium Sulfate
Glutamine
Sodium Phosphate
Ascorbic Acid
Sodium Acetate
Tocopherol
Lysine Hcl
Arginine Hcl
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1
Alanine
Histidine Hcl
Valine
Leucine
Threonine
Isoleucine
Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7
Tryptophan
Phenylalanine
Tyrosine
Glycine
Polysorbate 80
Serine
Cystine
Cyanocobalamin
Glutathione
Asparagine
Aspartic Acid
Ornithine Hcl
Glutamic Acid
Nicotinamide Adenine Dinucleotide
Proline
Methionine
Taurine
Hydroxyproline
Glucosamine Hcl
Coenzyme A
Sodium Glucuronate
Thiamine Diphosphate
Retinyl Acetate
Inositol
Niacin
Niacinamide
Pyridoxine Hcl
Biotin
Calcium Pantothenate
Riboflavin
Sodium Tocopheryl Phosphate
Thiamine Hcl
Folic Acid
Water, Butylene Glycol, Glycolic Acid, Propylene Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Dimethicone, Glycol Palmitate, Isononyl Isononanoate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Glycerin, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Sodium Hydroxide, Pseudoalteromonas Ferment Extract, Phenoxyethanol, Ceteareth-20, Parfum, Hydrolyzed Wheat Flour, Lauroyl Lysine, Sucrose Palmitate, Sodium Lactate, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice Powder, Tocopheryl Acetate, Azelaic Acid, Laminaria Ochroleuca Extract, Salicylic Acid, Polysorbate 60, Sorbitan Isostearate, Glyceryl Linoleate, Citric Acid, Sodium PCA, Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil, Sodium Chloride, Carbomer, Lactic Acid, Malic Acid, Phytic Acid, Polysorbate 20, Sodium Salicylate, Glucose, Sodium Hyaluronate, Pyruvic Acid, Tartaric Acid, Potassium Chloride, Potassium Sorbate, Calcium Chloride, Magnesium Sulfate, Glutamine, Sodium Phosphate, Ascorbic Acid, Sodium Acetate, Tocopherol, Lysine Hcl, Arginine Hcl, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Alanine, Histidine Hcl, Valine, Leucine, Threonine, Isoleucine, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Tryptophan, Phenylalanine, Tyrosine, Glycine, Polysorbate 80, Serine, Cystine, Cyanocobalamin, Glutathione, Asparagine, Aspartic Acid, Ornithine Hcl, Glutamic Acid, Nicotinamide Adenine Dinucleotide, Proline, Methionine, Taurine, Hydroxyproline, Glucosamine Hcl, Coenzyme A, Sodium Glucuronate, Thiamine Diphosphate, Retinyl Acetate, Inositol, Niacin, Niacinamide, Pyridoxine Hcl, Biotin, Calcium Pantothenate, Riboflavin, Sodium Tocopheryl Phosphate, Thiamine Hcl, Folic Acid
Cetyl Alcohol
Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer
Cyclopentasiloxane
Sorbitan Stearate
Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
Lauric Acid
Allantoin
Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract
Avena Sativa Kernel Extract
Epilobium Angustifolium Extract
Xanthan Gum
Magnesium Aluminum Silicate
PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil
Hexylene Glycol
Disodium EDTA
Ethylhexylglycerin
Caprylyl Glycol
Water, Butylene Glycol, Polysorbate 20, Cetyl Alcohol, Salicylic Acid, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Cyclopentasiloxane, Sorbitan Stearate, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Lauric Acid, Allantoin, Glycerin, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract, Avena Sativa Kernel Extract, Epilobium Angustifolium Extract, Dimethicone, Xanthan Gum, Magnesium Aluminum Silicate, PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Sodium Hydroxide, Hexylene Glycol, Disodium EDTA, Ethylhexylglycerin, Phenoxyethanol, Caprylyl Glycol
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Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Dimethicone is a type of synthetic silicone created from natural materials such as quartz. It is also known as polydimethylsiloxane.
What it does:
Dimethicone comes in different viscosities:
Depending on the viscosity, dimethicone has different properties.
Ingredients lists don't always show which type is used, so we recommend reaching out to the brand if you have questions about the viscosity.
This ingredient is unlikely to cause irritation because it does not get absorbed into skin. However, people with silicone allergies should be careful about using this ingredient.
Note: Dimethicone may contribute to pilling. This is because it is not oil or water soluble, so pilling may occur when layered with products. When mixed with heavy oils in a formula, the outcome is also quite greasy.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).
It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.
On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.
Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).
You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.
Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.
Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.
Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.
Polysorbate 20 is a gentle, water-soluble emulsifier and mild surfactant. It stops oil and water from separating to keep your formulas blended and stable.
It also acts as a mild penetration enhancer by helping active ingredients absorb slightly better.
The common safety discussion around this ingredient involves a manufacturing byproduct called 1,4-dioxane.
Trace amounts can form during production but the EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety has concluded that levels at/below 10 ppm in finished products are safe (commercial products consistently fall within acceptable margins).
True allergic reactions are uncommon and the CIR Expert Panel has confirmed this ingredient to be safe as used in cosmetics.
Because it is derived from lauric acid, it may not be fungal acne safe.
Salicylic Acid (also known as beta hydroxy acid or BHA) is a well-known ingredient for treating skin that struggles with acne and clogged pores. It exfoliates both the skin's surface and deep within the pores to help clear out buildup, control oil, and reduce inflammation.
Unlike AHAs (alpha hydroxy acids), salicylic acid is oil-soluble. This allows it to penetrate into pores which makes it especially effective for treating blackheads and preventing future breakouts.
Salicylic acid is also known for its soothing properties. It has a similar structure to aspirin and can calm inflamed or irritated skin, making it a good option for acne-prone skin that is also sensitive.
Concentrations of 0.5-2% are recognized by the U.S. FDA as an over-the-counter topical acne product.
It can cause irritation and/or dryness if one's skin already has a compromised moisture barrier, so it's best to focus on repairing that before introducing this ingredient into your routine.
While salicylic acid does not increase sun sensitivity, it’s still important to wear sunscreen daily to protect your skin.
If you are looking for the ingredient called BHA or Butylated Hydroxyanisole, click here.
Sodium Hydroxide is also known as lye or caustic soda. It is used to adjust the pH of products; many ingredients require a specific pH to be effective.
In small amounts, sodium hydroxide is considered safe to use. However, large amounts may cause chemical burns due to its high alkaline.
Your skin has a natural pH and acid mantle. This acid mantle helps prevent harmful bacteria from breaking through. The acid mantle also helps keep your skin hydrated.
"Alkaline" refers to a high pH level. A low pH level would be considered acidic.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!