Peptide Skincare & BeautySkin science and ingredient guides

Skin science article

First Aid Beauty Ultra Repair Oil-Control Moisturizer Versus Community Sixty-Six Oil Control Moisturizer with Niacinamide

First Aid Beauty Ultra Repair Oil-Control Moisturizer Versus Community Sixty-Six Oil Control Moisturizer with Niacinamide This oil-control moisturizer is formulated around Niacinamide and Avena Sativa Kernel Extract to balance excess oil and strengthen the ski

First Aid Beauty Ultra Repair Oil-Control Moisturizer Versus Community Sixty-Six Oil Control Moisturizer with Niacinamide

This oil-control moisturizer is formulated around Niacinamide and Avena Sativa Kernel Extract to balance excess oil and strengthen the skin barrier.

This oil-control moisturizer is formulated around Niacinamide and Azelaic Acid to balance excess oil and refine the look of pores.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Dimethicone

Propanediol

Butylene Glycol

Niacinamide

Nylon-12

Acrylates Crosspolymer

Sodium Hyaluronate

Enantia Chlorantha Bark Extract

Avena Sativa Kernel Extract

Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract

Chrysanthemum Parthenium Extract

Glycerin

Oleanolic Acid

Sorbitan Isostearate

Caprylyl Glycol

Glyceryl Stearate Citrate

Hydrogenated Polydecene

2-Hydroxyethyl Acrylate

1,2-Hexanediol

Lecithin

Polysilicone-11

Polysorbate 60

Sodium Caprylate

Sodium Acrylates Copolymer

Laureth-8

Citric Acid

Phenoxyethanol

Potassium Sorbate

Sodium Benzoate

Water, Dimethicone, Propanediol, Butylene Glycol, Niacinamide, Nylon-12, Acrylates Crosspolymer, Sodium Hyaluronate, Enantia Chlorantha Bark Extract, Avena Sativa Kernel Extract, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Chrysanthemum Parthenium Extract, Glycerin, Oleanolic Acid, Sorbitan Isostearate, Caprylyl Glycol, Glyceryl Stearate Citrate, Hydrogenated Polydecene, 2-Hydroxyethyl Acrylate, 1,2-Hexanediol, Lecithin, Polysilicone-11, Polysorbate 60, Sodium Caprylate, Sodium Acrylates Copolymer, Laureth-8, Citric Acid, Phenoxyethanol, Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Benzoate

Ethylhexyl Palmitate

Glyceryl Stearate Se

Cetearyl Alcohol

Coco-Caprylate/Caprate

Myristic Acid

Saccharomyces Ferment

Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate

Squalane

Triheptanoin

Tromethamine

Polysorbate 20

Glyceryl Caprylate

C9-12 Alkane

Polyurethane-10

C18-36 Acid Triglyceride

Polyacrylate-13

Lauroyl Lysine

Vitis Vinifera Seed Oil

Azelaic Acid

Vaccinium Myrtillus Fruit Extract

Decyl Glucoside

Polyisobutene

Carbomer

Hydroxyethylcellulose

Saccharum Officinarum Extract

Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer

Glyceryl Undecylenate

Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Fruit Extract

Citrus Limon Fruit Extract

Acer Saccharum Extract

Aphanizomenon Flos-Aquae Extract

Wine Extract

Akebia Quinata Stem Extract

Hydroxyacetophenone

Lactobacillus Ferment Lysate

Saccharomyces Lysate

Sebacic Acid

Disodium Phosphate

Sodium Phosphate

Water, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Glyceryl Stearate Se, Butylene Glycol, Cetearyl Alcohol, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Myristic Acid, Niacinamide, Glycerin, Saccharomyces Ferment, Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate, Squalane, Triheptanoin, Tromethamine, Lecithin, Polysorbate 20, Glyceryl Caprylate, Citric Acid, C9-12 Alkane, Polyurethane-10, C18-36 Acid Triglyceride, Polyacrylate-13, Lauroyl Lysine, Vitis Vinifera Seed Oil, Azelaic Acid, Vaccinium Myrtillus Fruit Extract, Decyl Glucoside, Polyisobutene, Carbomer, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Saccharum Officinarum Extract, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Glyceryl Undecylenate, 1,2-Hexanediol, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Fruit Extract, Citrus Limon Fruit Extract, Sorbitan Isostearate, Acer Saccharum Extract, Aphanizomenon Flos-Aquae Extract, Wine Extract, Akebia Quinata Stem Extract, Hydroxyacetophenone, Lactobacillus Ferment Lysate, Saccharomyces Lysate, Sodium Benzoate, Caprylyl Glycol, Sebacic Acid, Disodium Phosphate, Polysorbate 60, Sodium Phosphate

Reviews

Be the first to review

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.

It is a:

Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin

Emollient, helping to soften skin

Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas

Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives

Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:

Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.

Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.

Caprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.

Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.

Because it is not a free-fatty acid, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).

Citric Acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) naturally found in citrus fruits like oranges, lemons, and limes.

Like other AHAs, citric acid can exfoliate skin by breaking down the bonds that hold dead skin cells together. This helps reveal smoother and brighter skin underneath.

However, this exfoliating effect only happens at high concentrations (20%) which can be hard to find in cosmetic products.

Due to this, citric acid is usually included in small amounts as a pH adjuster. This helps keep products slightly more acidic and compatible with skin's natural pH.

In skincare formulas, citric acid can:

While it can provide some skin benefits, research shows lactic acid and glycolic acid are generally more effective and less irritating exfoliants.

Most citric acid used in skincare today is made by fermenting sugars (usually from molasses). This synthetic version is identical to the natural citrus form but easier to stabilize and use in formulations.

Rosacea skin has a lower threshold for acids generally, with 62.5% of rosacea subjects in one study reacting to lactic acid in a sting test. This is why we mark citric acid as a potential rosacea trigger.

However, this ingredient shows up as a pH adjuster or chelator at roughly 0.1-1% in many products. These low levels are unlikely to be an issue for rosacea skin and becomes a potential trigger at exfoliating concentrations (20%). Because everybody's skin is unique, we recommend a patch test if you are unsure.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Lecithin is a term for a group of substances found in the cell membranes of plants, animals, and humans. They are made up of phospholipids.

Thanks to its amphiphilic structure (water-loving head and oil-loving tail), it is a true multitasker:

It plays well with most ingredients and is typically used at 0.1-1%. However, concentrations up to 50% have been reported in moisturizers.

Niacinamide is a multitasking form of vitamin B3 that strengthens the skin barrier, reduces pores and dark spots, regulates oil, and improves signs of aging.

And the best part? It's gentle and well-tolerated by most skin types, including sensitive and reactive skin.

You might have heard of "niacin flush", or the reddening of skin that causes itchiness. Niacinamide has not been found to cause this.

In very rare cases, some individuals may not be able to tolerate niacinamide at all or experience an allergic reaction to it.

If you are experiencing flaking, irritation, and dryness with this ingredient, be sure to double check all your products as this ingredient can be found in all categories of skincare.

When incorporating niacinamide into your routine, look out for concentration amounts. Typically, 5% niacinamide provides benefits such as fading dark spots. However, if you have sensitive skin, it is better to begin with a smaller concentration.

When you apply niacinamide to your skin, your body converts it into nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide (NAD). NAD is an essential coenzyme that is already found in your cells as "fuel" and powers countless biological processes.

In your skin, NAD helps repair cell damage, produce new healthy cells, support collagen production, strengthen the skin barrier, and fight environmental stressors (like UV and pollution).

Our natural NAD levels start to decline with age, leading to slower skin repair, visible aging, and a weaker skin barrier. By providing your skin niacinamide, you're recharging your skin's NAD levels. This leads to stronger, healthier, and younger looking skin.

Another name for vitamin B3 is nicotinamide. This vitamin is water-soluble and our bodies don't store it. We obtain Vitamin B3 from either food or skincare. Meat, fish, wheat, yeast, and leafy greens contain vitamin B3.

The type of niacinamide used in skincare is synthetically created.

Polysorbate 60 is used to help stabilize products. It is a surfactant and emulsifier. These properties help keep ingredients together in a product. Surfactants help reduce surface tension between ingredients with different states, such as liquids and solids. Emulsifiers help prevent oils and waters from separating.

Polysorbate 60 is sorbitol-based and created from the ethoxylation of sorbitan. Ethoxylation is a chemical reaction used to add ethylene oxide. Sorbitan is a the dehydrated version of sorbitol, a sugar found in fruits.

In this case, the 60 comes from reacting 60 units of ethylene oxide with sorbitan.

Polysorbates are commonly used in medicine and foods.

Sodium Benzoate is a preservative. It's used in both cosmetic and food products to inhibit the growth of mold and bacteria. It is typically produced synthetically.

Both the US FDA and EU Health Committee have approved the use of sodium benzoate. In the US, levels of 0.1% (of the total product) are allowed.

Sodium benzoate works as a preservative by inhibiting the growth of bacteria inside of cells. It prevents the cell from fermenting a type of sugar using an enzyme called phosphofructokinase.

It is the salt of benzoic acid. Foods containing sodium benzoate include soda, salad dressings, condiments, fruit juices, wines, and snack foods.

Studies for using ascorbic acid and sodium benzoate in cosmetics are lacking, especially in skincare routines with multiple steps.

We always recommend speaking with a professional, such as a dermatologist, if you have any concerns.

Sorbitan Isostearate is an emulsifer. It is created from isostearic acid and sorbitol.

As an emulsifier, it keeps the water and oil ingredients from separating. This keeps formulas stable and smooth.

In a 24 hour occlusive patch test on 56 subjects, 10% sorbitan isostearate was completely non-irritating. Most formulas use less than 10%.

Because it's a fatty acid ester, it may not be fungal acne safe since the Malassezia yeast can utilize it as a nutrient source.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

Similar Comparisons

The reference edit

Ingredients, questions
& further reading.

Connected source records selected through this article’s public topic index.

01

Formula cabinet

Ingredients & structured notes

Ingredient index

Ingredients Side-by-side

  1. 01Ricinus Communis Seed Oil
  2. 02Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2
  3. 03Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
  4. 04Euphorbia Cerifera Wax
  5. 05Persea Gratissima Oil
  6. 06Oryza Sativa Bran Cera
  7. 07Helianthus Annuus Seed Extract
  8. 08Mangifera Indica Seed Butter
  9. 09Oryza Sativa Bran Extract
  10. 10Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract
  11. 11Tocopherol
  12. 12Ricinus Communis Seed Oil, Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Euphorbia Cerifera Wax, Persea Gratissima Oil, Oryza Sativa Bran Cera, Helianthus Annuus Seed Extract, Mangifera Indica Seed Butter, Oryza Sativa Bran Extrac…
  13. 13Squalane
  14. 14Sorbitan Olivate
  15. 15Water
  16. 16Trihydroxystearin
  17. 17Betaine
  18. 18Jojoba Esters
  19. 19Helianthus Annuus Seed Wax
  20. 20Sodium PCA
Source · skinsort.com
02

Product index

Related product references

03

Comparison edit

Read side by side