Skin science article
Fresh Rose Deep Hydration Face Cream Versus Paula's Choice Resist Barrier Repair Moisturizer with Retinol
Fresh Rose Deep Hydration Face Cream Versus Paula's Choice Resist Barrier Repair Moisturizer with Retinol This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Rosa Damascena Flower Water and Sodium Hyaluronate to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrate skin. T
Fresh Rose Deep Hydration Face Cream Versus Paula's Choice Resist Barrier Repair Moisturizer with Retinol
This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Rosa Damascena Flower Water and Sodium Hyaluronate to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrate skin.
This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Retinol and Ceramide NP to strengthen the skin barrier and soften the look of wrinkles.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Glycerin
C15-19 Alkane
Butylene Glycol
Propanediol
Isostearyl Isostearate
Hexyl Laurate
Pentylene Glycol
1,2-Hexanediol
Behenyl Alcohol
Steareth-2
Prunus Domestica Seed Oil
Rosa Damascena Flower Water
Rosa Damascena Extract
Angelica Keiskei Leaf/Stem Extract
Acacia Senegal Gum
Rosa Damascena Flower Extract
Rosa Damascena Flower Oil
Cucumis Sativus Fruit Extract
Tocopheryl Acetate
Silica
Dimethicone
Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer
Steareth-21
Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
Sodium Hyaluronate
Squalane
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Tromethamine
Xanthan Gum
Dimethiconol
Polysorbate 60
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Algin
Sodium Chloride
Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate
Sorbitan Isostearate
Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate
Serine
Caramel
Caprylyl Glycol
Citric Acid
Sodium Hydroxide
Chlorphenesin
Sodium Benzoate
Potassium Sorbate
Citronellol
Geraniol
Water, Glycerin, C15-19 Alkane, Butylene Glycol, Propanediol, Isostearyl Isostearate, Hexyl Laurate, Pentylene Glycol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Behenyl Alcohol, Steareth-2, Prunus Domestica Seed Oil, Rosa Damascena Flower Water, Rosa Damascena Extract, Angelica Keiskei Leaf/Stem Extract, Acacia Senegal Gum, Rosa Damascena Flower Extract, Rosa Damascena Flower Oil, Cucumis Sativus Fruit Extract, Tocopheryl Acetate, Silica, Dimethicone, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Steareth-21, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Sodium Hyaluronate, Squalane, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Tromethamine, Xanthan Gum, Dimethiconol, Polysorbate 60, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Algin, Sodium Chloride, Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate, Sorbitan Isostearate, Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate, Serine, Caramel, Caprylyl Glycol, Citric Acid, Sodium Hydroxide, Chlorphenesin, Sodium Benzoate, Potassium Sorbate, Citronellol, Geraniol
Dicaprylyl Carbonate
Ethylhexyl Stearate
Cocoglycerides
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
Sodium Polyacrylate
Lecithin
Adenosine
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1
Ceramide NP
Retinol
Punica Granatum Extract
Camellia Oleifera Leaf Extract
Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract
Tetrahydrodiferuloylmethane
Tetrahydrodemethoxydiferuloylmethane
Tetrahydrobisdemethoxydiferuloylmethane
Chamomilla Recutita Flower Extract
Glycine Soja Seed Extract
Glycine Soja Oil
Propylene Glycol
Glyceryl Polymethacrylate
Phenoxyethanol
Water, Dicaprylyl Carbonate, Glycerin, Ethylhexyl Stearate, Cocoglycerides, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Squalane, Sodium Polyacrylate, Lecithin, Adenosine, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Ceramide NP, Retinol, Punica Granatum Extract, Camellia Oleifera Leaf Extract, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract, Tetrahydrodiferuloylmethane, Tetrahydrodemethoxydiferuloylmethane, Tetrahydrobisdemethoxydiferuloylmethane, Tocopheryl Acetate, Chamomilla Recutita Flower Extract, Glycine Soja Seed Extract, Glycine Soja Oil, Butylene Glycol, Propylene Glycol, Glyceryl Polymethacrylate, Xanthan Gum, Phenoxyethanol
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Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Squalane is the hydrogenated and shelf-stable form of squalene (a lipid that naturally occurs in human sebum).
It is an emollient and skin conditioning agent that is able to integrate seamlessly into the skin's lipid barrier without clogging pores.
This is due to how structurally similar it is to what your skin already produces.
Though it is mostly an emollient that helps soften and hydrate skin, it also has some humectant and occlusive action. Humectants help the skin retain moisture while occlusives seal it in, making squalane a triple-threat moisturizer.
Research shows it has antioxidant capabilities that help protect against stressors like UV exposure, specifically UVA induced oxidative stress. This study also found that it supports collagen biosynthesis in human dermal fibroblasts.
No clinical study has reported significant adverse effects and irritation reactions are very rare from this ingredient (even at 100% concentration).
Overall, it's a fantastic ingredient for hydration and is suitable for all skin types.
This depends on the source. Squalane can be derived from both plants and animals. Most squalane used in skincare comes from plants.
Please note: the source of squalane is only known if disclosed by the brand. We recommend reaching out to the brand if you have any questions about their squalane.
Read more about squalene with an "e".
Though squalane is often called an oil, it’s technically not one. It is a hydrocarbon, meaning it is only made of carbon and hydrogen. True oils are triglycerides and made of fatty acids and glycerol.
The term “oil-free” isn’t regulated so companies can define it however they want. Some exclude all oils, while others just avoid mineral oil or comedogenic oils.
Squalane has a comedogenic rating of 1 from the original 1972 study that tested raw ingredients under occlusion on rabbit ears. This system is not standardized or peer-reviewed, and using the raw ingredients is very different from how diluted cosmetic formulations are used on human skin.
A comedogenic rating of 1 means it is "unlikely to clog pores" according to the original rating system.
The overall formula of a product matters more than the individual ingredients on whether or not it will cause clogged pores.
Tocopheryl Acetate is a stable, shelf-friendly form of vitamin E.
Formulators love it because plain vitamin E oxidizes quickly once it hits air. This acetate version stays stable and resists going off, helping to extend a product's shelf life.
It's actually inactive on its own and works like a slow-release "storage" form; the enzymes in your skin called esterases gradually convert it into active vitamin E over time.
One in vivo study showed 5% of the acetate in the living layer of the epidermis converted to vitamin E after 5 days of application. This study also found the skin gained protection against UV damage even though the conversion was slow and small.
Once converted, vitamin E acts as a skin's main fat-soluble antioxidant that fights free radicals to protect skin from damage.
Topical vitamin E generally boosts the skin's photoprotection, and it reduced UV-damage in animal models.
This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.
Overall, it has a pretty solid safety profile and has been found to be non-irritating and non-comedogenic. Allergic reactions may happen but stay rare due to how widely the ingredient gets used.
The concentration will vary depending on the formula; industry data shows 0.1% in baby lotions, 3% in lipsticks, and 5% in foot powders. You can also find this ingredient at 100% in a pure vitamin E oil.
Most leave-on skincare keeps it at the lower end, often between 0.5-1%.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Xanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.
On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.
Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.