Glossier Universal Pro-Retinol Versus The INKEY List 1% Retinol Serum

Glossier Universal Pro-Retinol Versus The INKEY List 1% Retinol Serum

This anti-aging serum is formulated around Retinol to soften the look of wrinkles and refine skin texture.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Glycerin

Propanediol

Cetyl Ethylhexanoate

C13-15 Alkane

Cetyl Alcohol

Butyrospermum Parkii Butter

Cetearyl Olivate

Coconut Alkanes

Sorbitan Olivate

Potassium Cetyl Phosphate

Betaine

Retinyl Sunflowerseedate

Stevia Rebaudiana Leaf/Stem Extract

Ophiopogon Japonicus Root Extract

Camellia Oleifera Leaf Extract

Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice

Sodium Hyaluronate

Tocopherol

Coco-Caprylate/Caprate

Ethylhexylglycerin

Glycol Stearate

Glyceryl Stearate

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Maltodextrin

Xanthan Gum

Benzoic Acid

Sodium Hydroxide

Carbomer

Sodium Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer

Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate

Water, Glycerin, Propanediol, Cetyl Ethylhexanoate, C13-15 Alkane, Cetyl Alcohol, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Cetearyl Olivate, Coconut Alkanes, Sorbitan Olivate, Potassium Cetyl Phosphate, Betaine, Retinyl Sunflowerseedate, Stevia Rebaudiana Leaf/Stem Extract, Ophiopogon Japonicus Root Extract, Camellia Oleifera Leaf Extract, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Sodium Hyaluronate, Tocopherol, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Ethylhexylglycerin, Glycol Stearate, Glyceryl Stearate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Maltodextrin, Xanthan Gum, Benzoic Acid, Sodium Hydroxide, Carbomer, Sodium Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate

Prunus Armeniaca Kernel Oil

Persea Gratissima Oil

Squalane

Cetearyl Alcohol

Glyceryl Stearate Se

Retinol

Phenoxyethanol

Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer

Benzyl Alcohol

Phospholipids

Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6

Glycine Soja Oil

Glycolipids

Dehydroacetic Acid

Polysorbate 60

Sorbitan Isostearate

Glycine Soja Sterols

T-Butyl Alcohol

Water, Glycerin, Prunus Armeniaca Kernel Oil, Persea Gratissima Oil, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Squalane, Cetearyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate Se, Retinol, Phenoxyethanol, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Benzyl Alcohol, Phospholipids, Tocopherol, Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6, Glycine Soja Oil, Ethylhexylglycerin, Glycolipids, Dehydroacetic Acid, Polysorbate 60, Sorbitan Isostearate, Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate, Glycine Soja Sterols, T-Butyl Alcohol

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Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.

Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.

In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.

While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.

Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.

This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.

This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.

Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:

The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.

Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Tocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.

You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.

Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.

It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.

This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.

This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.

In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.

Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.

Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate is used to help stabilize a product.

It is a chelating agent, meaning it helps prevent metal ions from binding to other ingredients. This prevents unwanted reactions in products. Metal ions can come into a product via the water ingredient. They are found in trace amounts and are not known to be harmful.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

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