Skin science article
Glow Recipe Avocado Melt Retinol Eye Sleeping Mask Versus Herbivore Moon Fruit 1% Bakuchiol + Peptides Retinol Alternative Serum
Glow Recipe Avocado Melt Retinol Eye Sleeping Mask Versus Herbivore Moon Fruit 1% Bakuchiol + Peptides Retinol Alternative Serum This anti-aging eye mask is formulated around Persea Gratissima Oil and Niacinamide to soften the look of wrinkles and hydrate skin
Glow Recipe Avocado Melt Retinol Eye Sleeping Mask Versus Herbivore Moon Fruit 1% Bakuchiol + Peptides Retinol Alternative Serum
This anti-aging eye mask is formulated around Persea Gratissima Oil and Niacinamide to soften the look of wrinkles and hydrate skin.
This anti-aging serum is formulated around Bakuchiol to soften the look of wrinkles and refine skin texture.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Glycerin
Propanediol
Glyceryl Stearate
Cetearyl Alcohol
Persea Gratissima Oil
C9-12 Alkane
Sodium Lauroyl Glutamate
Stearic Acid
Persea Gratissima Fruit Extract
Squalane
Niacinamide
Ethylhexylglycerin
Hexylresorcinol
Oryza Sativa Extract
Tocopheryl Acetate
Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice
Coffea Arabica Fruit Extract
Hyaluronic Acid
Ethylhexyl Palmitate
Sodium Hyaluronate
Retinol
Pei-10
Hydrated Silica
Sodium Chloride
Fructan
Maltodextrin
Spirulina Maxima Extract
Curcumin
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
Potassium Chloride
Potassium Phosphate
Butylene Glycol
Sodium Phosphate
Hydrogenated Starch Hydrolysate
Maltooligosyl Glucoside
Arginine
Silica Dimethyl Silylate
Sodium Dilauramidoglutamide Lysine
Sodium Hydroxide
Citric Acid
Caprylyl Glycol
Kaolin
Carthamus Tinctorius Seed Extract
Lavandula Angustifolia Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract
Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract
PPG-3 Benzyl Ether Myristate
Polyisobutene
Pvp
C13-15 Alkane
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Sodium Hydroxypropylsulfonate Laurylglucoside Crosspolymer
Hexylene Glycol
Potassium Sorbate
Sodium Benzoate
Phenoxyethanol
Aroma
Water, Glycerin, Propanediol, Glyceryl Stearate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Persea Gratissima Oil, C9-12 Alkane, Sodium Lauroyl Glutamate, Stearic Acid, Persea Gratissima Fruit Extract, Squalane, Niacinamide, Ethylhexylglycerin, Hexylresorcinol, Oryza Sativa Extract, Tocopheryl Acetate, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Coffea Arabica Fruit Extract, Hyaluronic Acid, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Sodium Hyaluronate, Retinol, Pei-10, Hydrated Silica, Sodium Chloride, Fructan, Maltodextrin, Spirulina Maxima Extract, Curcumin, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Potassium Chloride, Potassium Phosphate, Butylene Glycol, Sodium Phosphate, Hydrogenated Starch Hydrolysate, Maltooligosyl Glucoside, Arginine, Silica Dimethyl Silylate, Sodium Dilauramidoglutamide Lysine, Sodium Hydroxide, Citric Acid, Caprylyl Glycol, Kaolin, Carthamus Tinctorius Seed Extract, Lavandula Angustifolia Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract, Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract, PPG-3 Benzyl Ether Myristate, Polyisobutene, Pvp, C13-15 Alkane, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Sodium Hydroxypropylsulfonate Laurylglucoside Crosspolymer, Hexylene Glycol, Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Benzoate, Phenoxyethanol, Aroma
Triheptanoin
Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
Cetearyl Olivate
Sorbitan Olivate
Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract
Bakuchiol
Schisandra Chinensis Fruit Extract
Eragrostis Tef Seed Extract
Anigozanthos Flavidus Flower/Leaf Extract
Ficus Carica Fruit Extract
Punica Granatum Fruit Extract
Morus Alba Fruit Extract
Ginkgo Biloba Nut Extract
Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate
Coccinia Indica Fruit Extract
Caprylyl/Capryl Glucoside
Sclerotium Gum
Sodium Levulinate
Sodium Anisate
Coco-Caprylate/Caprate
Decyl Glucoside
Sodium Phytate
Lauryl Glucoside
Vaccinium Angustifolium Fruit Extract
Diisopropyl Adipate
Triethyl Citrate
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Vanilla Planifolia Fruit Extract
Rosa Damascena Extract
Alcohol
Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Peel Extract
Rubus Idaeus Fruit Extract
Pyrus Malus Fruit Extract
Musa Sapientum Fruit Extract
Citrus Aurantium Amara Leaf/Twig Extract
Cinnamomum Camphora Linalooliferum Wood Extract
Water, Triheptanoin, Propanediol, C9-12 Alkane, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Cetearyl Olivate, Sorbitan Olivate, Glycerin, Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract, Bakuchiol, Schisandra Chinensis Fruit Extract, Eragrostis Tef Seed Extract, Anigozanthos Flavidus Flower/Leaf Extract, Ficus Carica Fruit Extract, Punica Granatum Fruit Extract, Morus Alba Fruit Extract, Ginkgo Biloba Nut Extract, Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate, Coccinia Indica Fruit Extract, Caprylyl/Capryl Glucoside, Sclerotium Gum, Sodium Levulinate, Sodium Anisate, Citric Acid, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Decyl Glucoside, Sodium Phytate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Lauryl Glucoside, Vaccinium Angustifolium Fruit Extract, Diisopropyl Adipate, Triethyl Citrate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Vanilla Planifolia Fruit Extract, Rosa Damascena Extract, Alcohol, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Peel Extract, Rubus Idaeus Fruit Extract, Pyrus Malus Fruit Extract, Musa Sapientum Fruit Extract, Citrus Aurantium Amara Leaf/Twig Extract, Cinnamomum Camphora Linalooliferum Wood Extract
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Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
C9-12 Alkane is synethically created using alkanes, or paraffins. It is added to products as a solvent. This means its main purpose is to help dissolve ingredients and create even texture.
Citric Acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) naturally found in citrus fruits like oranges, lemons, and limes.
Like other AHAs, citric acid can exfoliate skin by breaking down the bonds that hold dead skin cells together. This helps reveal smoother and brighter skin underneath.
However, this exfoliating effect only happens at high concentrations (20%) which can be hard to find in cosmetic products.
Due to this, citric acid is usually included in small amounts as a pH adjuster. This helps keep products slightly more acidic and compatible with skin's natural pH.
In skincare formulas, citric acid can:
While it can provide some skin benefits, research shows lactic acid and glycolic acid are generally more effective and less irritating exfoliants.
Most citric acid used in skincare today is made by fermenting sugars (usually from molasses). This synthetic version is identical to the natural citrus form but easier to stabilize and use in formulations.
Rosacea skin has a lower threshold for acids generally, with 62.5% of rosacea subjects in one study reacting to lactic acid in a sting test. This is why we mark citric acid as a potential rosacea trigger.
However, this ingredient shows up as a pH adjuster or chelator at roughly 0.1-1% in many products. These low levels are unlikely to be an issue for rosacea skin and becomes a potential trigger at exfoliating concentrations (20%). Because everybody's skin is unique, we recommend a patch test if you are unsure.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Propanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.
It’s often used to:
Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.
Tocopheryl Acetate is a stable, shelf-friendly form of vitamin E.
Formulators love it because plain vitamin E oxidizes quickly once it hits air. This acetate version stays stable and resists going off, helping to extend a product's shelf life.
It's actually inactive on its own and works like a slow-release "storage" form; the enzymes in your skin called esterases gradually convert it into active vitamin E over time.
One in vivo study showed 5% of the acetate in the living layer of the epidermis converted to vitamin E after 5 days of application. This study also found the skin gained protection against UV damage even though the conversion was slow and small.
Once converted, vitamin E acts as a skin's main fat-soluble antioxidant that fights free radicals to protect skin from damage.
Topical vitamin E generally boosts the skin's photoprotection, and it reduced UV-damage in animal models.
This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.
Overall, it has a pretty solid safety profile and has been found to be non-irritating and non-comedogenic. Allergic reactions may happen but stay rare due to how widely the ingredient gets used.
The concentration will vary depending on the formula; industry data shows 0.1% in baby lotions, 3% in lipsticks, and 5% in foot powders. You can also find this ingredient at 100% in a pure vitamin E oil.
Most leave-on skincare keeps it at the lower end, often between 0.5-1%.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!