Herbivore Moon Fruit 1% Bakuchiol + Peptides Retinol Alternative Serum Versus Medik8 Bakuchiol Peptides

Herbivore Moon Fruit 1% Bakuchiol + Peptides Retinol Alternative Serum Versus Medik8 Bakuchiol Peptides

This anti-aging serum is formulated around Bakuchiol to soften the look of wrinkles and refine skin texture.

This anti-aging serum is formulated around Bakuchiol and Centella Asiatica Leaf Extract to soften the look of wrinkles and calm redness.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Triheptanoin

Propanediol

C9-12 Alkane

Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil

Cetearyl Olivate

Sorbitan Olivate

Glycerin

Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract

Bakuchiol

Schisandra Chinensis Fruit Extract

Eragrostis Tef Seed Extract

Anigozanthos Flavidus Flower/Leaf Extract

Ficus Carica Fruit Extract

Punica Granatum Fruit Extract

Morus Alba Fruit Extract

Ginkgo Biloba Nut Extract

Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate

Coccinia Indica Fruit Extract

Caprylyl/Capryl Glucoside

Sclerotium Gum

Sodium Levulinate

Sodium Anisate

Citric Acid

Coco-Caprylate/Caprate

Decyl Glucoside

Sodium Phytate

Tocopheryl Acetate

Lauryl Glucoside

Vaccinium Angustifolium Fruit Extract

Diisopropyl Adipate

Triethyl Citrate

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Vanilla Planifolia Fruit Extract

Rosa Damascena Extract

Alcohol

Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Peel Extract

Rubus Idaeus Fruit Extract

Pyrus Malus Fruit Extract

Musa Sapientum Fruit Extract

Citrus Aurantium Amara Leaf/Twig Extract

Cinnamomum Camphora Linalooliferum Wood Extract

Water, Triheptanoin, Propanediol, C9-12 Alkane, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Cetearyl Olivate, Sorbitan Olivate, Glycerin, Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract, Bakuchiol, Schisandra Chinensis Fruit Extract, Eragrostis Tef Seed Extract, Anigozanthos Flavidus Flower/Leaf Extract, Ficus Carica Fruit Extract, Punica Granatum Fruit Extract, Morus Alba Fruit Extract, Ginkgo Biloba Nut Extract, Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate, Coccinia Indica Fruit Extract, Caprylyl/Capryl Glucoside, Sclerotium Gum, Sodium Levulinate, Sodium Anisate, Citric Acid, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Decyl Glucoside, Sodium Phytate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Lauryl Glucoside, Vaccinium Angustifolium Fruit Extract, Diisopropyl Adipate, Triethyl Citrate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Vanilla Planifolia Fruit Extract, Rosa Damascena Extract, Alcohol, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Peel Extract, Rubus Idaeus Fruit Extract, Pyrus Malus Fruit Extract, Musa Sapientum Fruit Extract, Citrus Aurantium Amara Leaf/Twig Extract, Cinnamomum Camphora Linalooliferum Wood Extract

Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil

Krameria Triandra Root Extract

Plukenetia Volubilis Seed Oil

Moringa Oleifera Seed Oil

Tocopherol

Centella Asiatica Leaf Extract

Aloe Barbadensis Flower Extract

Corallina Officinalis Extract

Solanum Melongena Fruit Extract

Curcuma Longa Root Extract

Ocimum Basilicum Flower/Leaf Extract

Ocimum Sanctum Leaf Extract

Eclipta Prostrata Extract

Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract

Undecylenoyl Phenylalanine

Olea Europaea Fruit Oil

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Bakuchiol, Krameria Triandra Root Extract, Plukenetia Volubilis Seed Oil, Moringa Oleifera Seed Oil, Tocopherol, Centella Asiatica Leaf Extract, Aloe Barbadensis Flower Extract, Corallina Officinalis Extract, Coccinia Indica Fruit Extract, Solanum Melongena Fruit Extract, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Curcuma Longa Root Extract, Ocimum Basilicum Flower/Leaf Extract, Ocimum Sanctum Leaf Extract, Eclipta Prostrata Extract, Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract, Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract, Undecylenoyl Phenylalanine, Olea Europaea Fruit Oil

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Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Bakuchiol is a plant-derived antioxidant from the seeds of the Psoralea corylifolia plant. It has antimicrobial, emollient, skin conditioning, and antioxidant properties.

You'll likely see it called a "retinol replacement" but the two are technically not related. This is because bakuchiol is able to flip many of the same switches in your skin cells to tell them to:

1) produce more collagen (type I, III, and IV) 2) activate the same genes retinoids do

Unlike retinoids, this ingredient will not increase photosensitivity and is safe to use during pregnancy (but please still check in with your doctor!).

The flagship clinical trial from Dhaliwal et al. 2019 found 0.5% bakuchiol (twice daily) and 0.5% retinol (once daily) reduced wrinkles and hyperpigmentation equally, but bakuchiol had significantly less irritation.

Systematic reviews also back this up:

Bakuchiol is comparable to retinol for photoaging but with better tolerability. It also has mild antibacterial properties against Cutibacterium acnes and antifungal activity in vitro against Candida and dermatophytes.

The reason bakuchiol works well is due to its structure; it is a meroterpene phenol, or a hybrid molecule. The phenol half acts as an antioxidant while the terpene half is fat-loving. This helps the molecule slip through the skin barrier.

This ingredient is usually used between 0.5-2%. Only one case of contact dermatitis has ever been reported for this ingredient.

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.

Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.

In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.

While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.

Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.

This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.

This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.

Coccinia Indica Fruit Extract is also known as Ivy Gourd Fruit Extract. It has skin conditioning properties.

The fruit is rich in flavonoids, phenolic acids, terpenoids, and sterols that show antioxidant and anti-inflammatory effect in vitro. This is because the fruit contains a thick mucilage that forms a protective and soothing layer on the skin's surface.

The extract itself has demonstrated antioxidant, soothing, and potential anti-allergy properties.

Most of this research is done in vitro and dedicated clinical studies on topical application are still limited.

Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract is from the Neem tree. Neem trees originate from India.

Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract contains antioxidants. Antioxidants help fight free-radicals. Free-radicals are molecules that may damage your skin cells, such as pollution.

The flowers of this tree are lilac colored.

Jojoba oil is one of the most well-studied plant-derived ingredients in cosmetics. It is an emollient with a special structure.

Because it is made up of 97-98% wax esters, it closely mirrors the linear monoesters found in human sebum. This makes it skin compatible, non-greasy, and lightweight.

Unlike other plant oils, jojoba wax doesn't easily penetrate skin. It mostly works in the uppermost layers as an emollient. This just means it forms a light barrier on the skin to help retain moisture.

Formulations with jojoba esters up to 90% reduced transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and increased barrier recovery by 81% (outperforming bisabolol at 47%).

Besides barrier support, the science also suggests jojoba to have anti-inflammatory effects and potential applications for skin infections, aging, and wound healing.

Fun fact: Indigenous cultures have used jojoba as a moisturizer and to help treat burns for centuries.

Fungal acne: The Malassezia yeast is known to metabolize fatty acids in the C11-24 range and jojoba's dominant fatty acid components fall into this range. This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe.

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