Skin science article
Glow Recipe Plum Plump Hyaluronic Acid Serum Versus First Aid Beauty Facial Radiance Polish
Glow Recipe Plum Plump Hyaluronic Acid Serum Versus First Aid Beauty Facial Radiance Polish This hydrating serum is formulated around Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate and Sodium Hyaluronate to hydrate skin and strengthen the skin barrier. This mild cream cleanser
Glow Recipe Plum Plump Hyaluronic Acid Serum Versus First Aid Beauty Facial Radiance Polish
This hydrating serum is formulated around Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate and Sodium Hyaluronate to hydrate skin and strengthen the skin barrier.
This mild cream cleanser is mild enough to cleanse without leaving skin feeling tight or stripped.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Glycerin
Propanediol
Pentylene Glycol
Pleiogynium Timoriense Fruit Extract
Podocarpus Elatus Fruit Extract
Terminalia Ferdinandiana Fruit Extract
Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate
Sodium Hyaluronate
Tremella Fuciformis Polysaccharide
Acacia Seyal Gum Extract
Sr-Spider Polypeptide-1
Pantothenic Acid
Phospholipids
Sodium Hydroxide
Spirulina Platensis Extract
Raphanus Sativus Root Extract
Caprylyl Glycol
Chlorphenesin
Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate
Polyglyceryl-6 Caprylate
Polyglyceryl-4 Caprate
Potassium Sorbate
Propylene Glycol
Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate
1,2-Hexanediol
Citric Acid
Ethylhexylglycerin
Hydroxyacetophenone
Carrageenan
Xanthan Gum
Sodium Glycolate
Sodium Formate
Phenoxyethanol
Parfum
Water, Glycerin, Propanediol, Pentylene Glycol, Pleiogynium Timoriense Fruit Extract, Podocarpus Elatus Fruit Extract, Terminalia Ferdinandiana Fruit Extract, Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate, Sodium Hyaluronate, Tremella Fuciformis Polysaccharide, Acacia Seyal Gum Extract, Sr-Spider Polypeptide-1, Pantothenic Acid, Phospholipids, Sodium Hydroxide, Spirulina Platensis Extract, Raphanus Sativus Root Extract, Caprylyl Glycol, Chlorphenesin, Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate, Polyglyceryl-6 Caprylate, Polyglyceryl-4 Caprate, Potassium Sorbate, Propylene Glycol, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, 1,2-Hexanediol, Citric Acid, Ethylhexylglycerin, Hydroxyacetophenone, Carrageenan, Xanthan Gum, Sodium Glycolate, Sodium Formate, Phenoxyethanol, Parfum
Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate
Behenyl Alcohol
Cocamidopropyl Hydroxysultaine
Glyceryl Stearate Se
Sodium Chloride
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter Extract
Coconut Acid
Salix Alba Bark Extract
Colloidal Oatmeal
Ceramide NP
Citrus Aurantium Amara Peel Oil
Sodium Phytate
Vitis Vinifera Seed Oil
Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice
Rubus Occidentalis Fruit Extract
Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract
Chrysanthemum Parthenium Extract
Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
Sodium Acetate
Panthenol
Hydroxypropyl Guar
Sorbitol
Tocopherol
C12-15 Alkyl Lactate
Hydroxyethylcellulose
Lauroyl/Myristoyl Methyl Glucamide
Copernicia Cerifera Wax
Sorbic Acid
Cellulose
Lactic Acid
Carbomer
Sodium Benzoate
Linalool
CI 77891
Water, Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate, Behenyl Alcohol, Propanediol, Cocamidopropyl Hydroxysultaine, Glyceryl Stearate Se, Sodium Chloride, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter Extract, Coconut Acid, Salix Alba Bark Extract, Colloidal Oatmeal, Ceramide NP, Citrus Aurantium Amara Peel Oil, Sodium Phytate, Vitis Vinifera Seed Oil, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Rubus Occidentalis Fruit Extract, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract, Chrysanthemum Parthenium Extract, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Glycerin, Sodium Acetate, Panthenol, Hydroxypropyl Guar, Ethylhexylglycerin, Sorbitol, Tocopherol, C12-15 Alkyl Lactate, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Lauroyl/Myristoyl Methyl Glucamide, Copernicia Cerifera Wax, Sorbic Acid, Cellulose, Lactic Acid, Phenoxyethanol, Citric Acid, Carbomer, Sodium Benzoate, Chlorphenesin, Propylene Glycol, Sodium Hydroxide, Linalool, CI 77891
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Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Chlorphenesin is a synthetic preservative. It helps protect a product against bacteria in order to extend shelf life. In most cases, Chlorphenesin is paired with other preservatives such as phenoxyethanol and caprylyl glycol.
Chlorphenesin is a biocide. This means it is able to help fight the microorganisms on our skin. It is also able to fight odor-releasing bacteria.
Chlorphenesin is soluble in both water and glycerin.
Studies show Chlorphenesin is easily absorbed by our skin. You should speak with a skincare professional if you have concerns about using Chlorphenesin.
Citric Acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) naturally found in citrus fruits like oranges, lemons, and limes.
Like other AHAs, citric acid can exfoliate skin by breaking down the bonds that hold dead skin cells together. This helps reveal smoother and brighter skin underneath.
However, this exfoliating effect only happens at high concentrations (20%) which can be hard to find in cosmetic products.
Due to this, citric acid is usually included in small amounts as a pH adjuster. This helps keep products slightly more acidic and compatible with skin's natural pH.
In skincare formulas, citric acid can:
While it can provide some skin benefits, research shows lactic acid and glycolic acid are generally more effective and less irritating exfoliants.
Most citric acid used in skincare today is made by fermenting sugars (usually from molasses). This synthetic version is identical to the natural citrus form but easier to stabilize and use in formulations.
Rosacea skin has a lower threshold for acids generally, with 62.5% of rosacea subjects in one study reacting to lactic acid in a sting test. This is why we mark citric acid as a potential rosacea trigger.
However, this ingredient shows up as a pH adjuster or chelator at roughly 0.1-1% in many products. These low levels are unlikely to be an issue for rosacea skin and becomes a potential trigger at exfoliating concentrations (20%). Because everybody's skin is unique, we recommend a patch test if you are unsure.
Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).
It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.
On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.
Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).
You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.
Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.
Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.
Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.
Propanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.
It’s often used to:
Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.
Propylene Glycol is a synthetic, colorless, odorless liquid that has been a staple in cosmetics for decades. It is a skin conditioning agent, humectant, and solvent.
As a humectant, it draw water to the skin to reduce flaking and restore suppleness. It's also a solvent that helps dissolve other actives and keeps formulas stable across temperature changes.
The CIR Expert Panel has confirmed this ingredient to be nontoxic and clinical studies show no sensitization at cosmetic use concentrations.
True allergic reactions are quite rare: a 15-year retrospective study of 6,751 patients found only 0.31% had a positive reaction (and less than half were considered clinically relevant).
It seemed that when sensitization does occur, it's most commonly linked to topical medication (like corticosteroids) and not cosmetics. Allergic contact dermatitis also appears largely limited to individuals with underlying skin conditions.
Overall, propylene glycol is a well-studied ingredient that most people can tolerate without issue.
Sodium Hydroxide is also known as lye or caustic soda. It is used to adjust the pH of products; many ingredients require a specific pH to be effective.
In small amounts, sodium hydroxide is considered safe to use. However, large amounts may cause chemical burns due to its high alkaline.
Your skin has a natural pH and acid mantle. This acid mantle helps prevent harmful bacteria from breaking through. The acid mantle also helps keep your skin hydrated.
"Alkaline" refers to a high pH level. A low pH level would be considered acidic.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!