Glow Recipe Plum Plump Hyaluronic Cream Versus Youth To The People Polypeptide-121 Future Cream with Peptides and Ceramides

Glow Recipe Plum Plump Hyaluronic Cream Versus Youth To The People Polypeptide-121 Future Cream with Peptides and Ceramides

This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Hyaluronic Acid and Polyglutamic Acid to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrate skin.

This anti-aging moisturizer is formulated around Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid and Acetyl Tetrapeptide-9 to soften the look of wrinkles and hydrate skin.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Propanediol

Glycerin

C13-15 Alkane

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

C9-12 Alkane

Prunus Domestica Seed Oil

Pentylene Glycol

Squalane

Terminalia Ferdinandiana Seed Oil

Hyaluronic Acid

Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate

Sodium Hyaluronate

Davidsonia Jerseyana Fruit Extract

Terminalia Ferdinandiana Fruit Powder

Podocarpus Elatus Fruit Extract

Polyglutamic Acid

Pleiogynium Timoriense Fruit Extract

Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer

Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate

Epilobium Fleischeri Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract

Niacinamide

Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer

Xylitylglucoside

Isononyl Isononanoate

Caprylyl Glycol

Anhydroxylitol

Cetearyl Alcohol

Glyceryl Stearate

Arginine

Ethylhexylglycerin

Sodium Chloride

Xylitol

Stearic Acid

Tremella Fuciformis Polysaccharide

Sodium Lauroyl Glutamate

Eclipta Prostrata Extract

Glucose

Potassium Phosphate

Butylene Glycol

Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract

Hydroxypropylcellulose

Alaria Esculenta Extract

Sodium Phosphate

Potassium Chloride

Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract

Corallina Officinalis Extract

1,2-Hexanediol

Moringa Oleifera Seed Oil

Coccinia Indica Fruit Extract

Citric Acid

Potassium Sorbate

Solanum Melongena Fruit Extract

Aloe Barbadensis Flower Extract

Gluconolactone

Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil

Curcuma Longa Root Extract

Ocimum Basilicum Flower/Leaf Extract

Ocimum Sanctum Leaf Extract

Silica

Sodium Hydroxide

Sodium Benzoate

Phenoxyethanol

Parfum

Water, Propanediol, Glycerin, C13-15 Alkane, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, C9-12 Alkane, Prunus Domestica Seed Oil, Pentylene Glycol, Squalane, Terminalia Ferdinandiana Seed Oil, Hyaluronic Acid, Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate, Sodium Hyaluronate, Davidsonia Jerseyana Fruit Extract, Terminalia Ferdinandiana Fruit Powder, Podocarpus Elatus Fruit Extract, Polyglutamic Acid, Pleiogynium Timoriense Fruit Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer, Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate, Epilobium Fleischeri Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract, Niacinamide, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Xylitylglucoside, Isononyl Isononanoate, Caprylyl Glycol, Anhydroxylitol, Cetearyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate, Arginine, Ethylhexylglycerin, Sodium Chloride, Xylitol, Stearic Acid, Tremella Fuciformis Polysaccharide, Sodium Lauroyl Glutamate, Eclipta Prostrata Extract, Glucose, Potassium Phosphate, Butylene Glycol, Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract, Hydroxypropylcellulose, Alaria Esculenta Extract, Sodium Phosphate, Potassium Chloride, Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract, Corallina Officinalis Extract, 1,2-Hexanediol, Moringa Oleifera Seed Oil, Coccinia Indica Fruit Extract, Citric Acid, Potassium Sorbate, Solanum Melongena Fruit Extract, Aloe Barbadensis Flower Extract, Gluconolactone, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Curcuma Longa Root Extract, Ocimum Basilicum Flower/Leaf Extract, Ocimum Sanctum Leaf Extract, Silica, Sodium Hydroxide, Sodium Benzoate, Phenoxyethanol, Parfum

Dicaprylyl Carbonate

Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid

Trimethylolpropane Tricaprylate/Tricaprate

Tridecyl Trimellitate

Sh-Polypeptide-121

Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate

Panthenol

Proline

Tocopheryl Acetate

Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice

Hydrolyzed Cannabis Sativa Seed Extract

Hydrolyzed Rice Protein

Hydrolyzed Pea Protein

Salvia Hispanica Seed Extract

Acetyl Tetrapeptide-11

Acetyl Tetrapeptide-9

Acetyl Tetrapeptide-2

Hibiscus Sabdariffa Fruit Extract

Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Beheneth-25 Methacrylate Crosspolymer

Hydrolyzed Linseed Seed

Castor Oil/Ipdi Copolymer

Ceramide AP

Ceramide NP

Cetearyl Glucoside

Coco-Caprylate/Caprate

Dilinoleic Acid

Benzyl Alcohol

Zingiber Officinale Root Extract

Bisabolol

Carbomer

Dimethyl Isosorbide

Dipropylene Glycol

Erythritol

Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate

Phytosphingosine

Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6

Polysorbate 20

Caprylhydroxamic Acid

Glycine

Hydroxyacetophenone

T-Butyl Alcohol

Sodium Citrate

Sodium Lactate

Triheptanoin

Xanthan Gum

Water, Dicaprylyl Carbonate, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Trimethylolpropane Tricaprylate/Tricaprate, Tridecyl Trimellitate, Propanediol, Sh-Polypeptide-121, Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate, Panthenol, Niacinamide, Proline, Tocopheryl Acetate, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Hydrolyzed Cannabis Sativa Seed Extract, Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Hydrolyzed Pea Protein, Salvia Hispanica Seed Extract, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-11, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-9, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-2, Hibiscus Sabdariffa Fruit Extract, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Beheneth-25 Methacrylate Crosspolymer, Hydrolyzed Linseed Seed, Castor Oil/Ipdi Copolymer, Ceramide AP, Ceramide NP, Cetearyl Alcohol, Cetearyl Glucoside, Glycerin, Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Dilinoleic Acid, Benzyl Alcohol, Zingiber Officinale Root Extract, Bisabolol, Caprylyl Glycol, Carbomer, Dimethyl Isosorbide, Dipropylene Glycol, Erythritol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Glucose, 1,2-Hexanediol, Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate, Glyceryl Stearate, Phytosphingosine, Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6, Polysorbate 20, Caprylhydroxamic Acid, Potassium Sorbate, Glycine, Hydroxyacetophenone, Sodium Benzoate, T-Butyl Alcohol, Citric Acid, Sodium Citrate, Sodium Lactate, Triheptanoin, Xanthan Gum

Reviews

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.

It is a:

Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin

Emollient, helping to soften skin

Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas

Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives

Caprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.

Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.

Because it is not a free-fatty acid, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).

Cetearyl alcohol is a waxy mixture of two fatty alcohols: cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol. It is an emollient and emulsifier.

Despite having "alcohol" in its name, it has nothing to do with drying solvent alcohols; the FDA also allows "alcohol-free" products to contain fatty alcohols like this ingredient.

It plays several roles in a formula:

Typical use levels for this ingredient sit around 1-10% and the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has affirmed safety at concentrations up to 25% in leave-on products.

Multiple assessments have found it to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing to most people.

However, there have been some cases of allergic contact dermatitis in patients with chronically compromised skin barriers.

Cetearyl alcohol has a comedogenic rating of 2 and irritancy rating of 1. Both of these numbers come from the 1989 study that used rabbit ears; a "2" means mildly comedogenic and a "1" means low irritancy.

Here's the catch: rabbit skin is more sensitive than human skin and throws a lot of false positives. A 1996 reappraisal found that ingredients rated 1-2 in the rabbit ear tests are generally safe for humans.

Remember comedogenic ratings are unable to assess the entire formula of a product or how it will react on your skin. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure about certain ingredients.

This ingredient is not fungal acne safe. Cetearyl alcohol is a fatty alcohol with chain lengths that fall within the range that Malassezia can metabolize.

A 2019 study has also observed Malassezia growth in the presence of this ingredient, confirming it to be not-fungal acne safe.

Citric Acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) naturally found in citrus fruits like oranges, lemons, and limes.

Like other AHAs, citric acid can exfoliate skin by breaking down the bonds that hold dead skin cells together. This helps reveal smoother and brighter skin underneath.

However, this exfoliating effect only happens at high concentrations (20%) which can be hard to find in cosmetic products.

Due to this, citric acid is usually included in small amounts as a pH adjuster. This helps keep products slightly more acidic and compatible with skin's natural pH.

In skincare formulas, citric acid can:

While it can provide some skin benefits, research shows lactic acid and glycolic acid are generally more effective and less irritating exfoliants.

Most citric acid used in skincare today is made by fermenting sugars (usually from molasses). This synthetic version is identical to the natural citrus form but easier to stabilize and use in formulations.

Rosacea skin has a lower threshold for acids generally, with 62.5% of rosacea subjects in one study reacting to lactic acid in a sting test. This is why we mark citric acid as a potential rosacea trigger.

However, this ingredient shows up as a pH adjuster or chelator at roughly 0.1-1% in many products. These low levels are unlikely to be an issue for rosacea skin and becomes a potential trigger at exfoliating concentrations (20%). Because everybody's skin is unique, we recommend a patch test if you are unsure.

Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:

The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.

Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.

Glucose is a simple sugar (a monosaccharide). In skincare, it is mostly a humectant and skin conditioning agent.

Mechanistically, it has multiple hydroxyl groups that hydrogen-bond to water. This pulls moisture into the upper layers of skin to keep the surface soft and hydrated.

It's worth knowing sugars are already a natural component of the skin's NMF (natural moisturizing factor) so it's a molecule that your stratum corneum is well-acquainted with.

Just so you know, glucose is hydrophilic (water-loving) and the stratum corneum is a strong barrier to hydrophilic compounds. This just means penetration is slow and most of the action is happening on the surface.

Gram-to-gram, glucose is not as efficient as a humectant as glycerin. This is why you'll likely see glycose paired with stronger humectants for a bigger hydration payoff.

In skincare, glucose is typically derived from corn or other starch sources.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Glyceryl Stearate is made by reacting glycerin with stearic acid (typically sourced from plant oils like palm or coconut). It's an emulsifier, emollient, and mild occlusive.

Emulsifiers help ingredients like oil and water stay mixed so your formula stays nicely blended and uniform in texture.

This ingredient is typically used in concentrations between 1-10%. Studies have found it to be non-sensitizing, non-phototoxic, and non-photoallergenic.

A close cousin of this ingredient is Glyceryl Stearate SE ("self-emulsifying"). This just has a small amount of sodium or potassium stearate added so it can emulsify without a co-emulsifier.

Since this ingredient is an ester of a C18 fatty acid, it may not be fungal acne safe. The Malassezia yeast can potentially metabolize within the C11-C24 range.

Fun fact: The human body also creates Glyceryl Stearate naturally.

This ingredient is created by putting sodium hyaluronate through hydrolysis.

You might know this as 'mini' or 'ultra low-molecular weight' hyaluronic acid. The small molecule size means it is able to travel deeper in the skin.

According to studies, low molecular-weight hyaluronic acid can:

One study from 2011 found ultra-low weight HA to show pro-inflammatory properties. Another study from 2022 found it to downregulate UV-B induced inflammation.

Hydrolysis is a process of changing a molecule using water or enzymes.

This ingredient is water-soluble.

Niacinamide is a multitasking form of vitamin B3 that strengthens the skin barrier, reduces pores and dark spots, regulates oil, and improves signs of aging.

And the best part? It's gentle and well-tolerated by most skin types, including sensitive and reactive skin.

You might have heard of "niacin flush", or the reddening of skin that causes itchiness. Niacinamide has not been found to cause this.

In very rare cases, some individuals may not be able to tolerate niacinamide at all or experience an allergic reaction to it.

If you are experiencing flaking, irritation, and dryness with this ingredient, be sure to double check all your products as this ingredient can be found in all categories of skincare.

When incorporating niacinamide into your routine, look out for concentration amounts. Typically, 5% niacinamide provides benefits such as fading dark spots. However, if you have sensitive skin, it is better to begin with a smaller concentration.

When you apply niacinamide to your skin, your body converts it into nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide (NAD). NAD is an essential coenzyme that is already found in your cells as "fuel" and powers countless biological processes.

In your skin, NAD helps repair cell damage, produce new healthy cells, support collagen production, strengthen the skin barrier, and fight environmental stressors (like UV and pollution).

Our natural NAD levels start to decline with age, leading to slower skin repair, visible aging, and a weaker skin barrier. By providing your skin niacinamide, you're recharging your skin's NAD levels. This leads to stronger, healthier, and younger looking skin.

Another name for vitamin B3 is nicotinamide. This vitamin is water-soluble and our bodies don't store it. We obtain Vitamin B3 from either food or skincare. Meat, fish, wheat, yeast, and leafy greens contain vitamin B3.

The type of niacinamide used in skincare is synthetically created.

Potassium Sorbate is a preservative used to prevent yeast and mold in products. It is commonly found in both cosmetic and food products.

This ingredient comes from potassium salt derived from sorbic acid. Sorbic acid is a natural antibiotic and effective against fungus.

Both potassium sorbate and sorbic acid can be found in baked goods, cheeses, dried meats, dried fruit, ice cream, pickles, wine, yogurt, and more.

You'll often find this ingredient used with other preservatives.

Propanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.

It’s often used to:

Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.

Sodium Benzoate is a preservative. It's used in both cosmetic and food products to inhibit the growth of mold and bacteria. It is typically produced synthetically.

Both the US FDA and EU Health Committee have approved the use of sodium benzoate. In the US, levels of 0.1% (of the total product) are allowed.

Sodium benzoate works as a preservative by inhibiting the growth of bacteria inside of cells. It prevents the cell from fermenting a type of sugar using an enzyme called phosphofructokinase.

It is the salt of benzoic acid. Foods containing sodium benzoate include soda, salad dressings, condiments, fruit juices, wines, and snack foods.

Studies for using ascorbic acid and sodium benzoate in cosmetics are lacking, especially in skincare routines with multiple steps.

We always recommend speaking with a professional, such as a dermatologist, if you have any concerns.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

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