Skin science article
Glow Recipe Strawberry Smooth BHA + AHA Salicylic Acid Serum Versus Paula's Choice 10% Azelaic Acid Booster
Glow Recipe Strawberry Smooth BHA + AHA Salicylic Acid Serum Versus Paula's Choice 10% Azelaic Acid Booster This smoothing serum is formulated around Salicylic Acid and Mandelic Acid to refine skin texture and clear breakouts. This calming treatment is formula
Glow Recipe Strawberry Smooth BHA + AHA Salicylic Acid Serum Versus Paula's Choice 10% Azelaic Acid Booster
This smoothing serum is formulated around Salicylic Acid and Mandelic Acid to refine skin texture and clear breakouts.
This calming treatment is formulated around Azelaic Acid and Salicylic Acid to calm redness and fade the look of dark spots.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Methylpropanediol
C9-12 Alkane
Fragaria Vesca Fruit Extract
Hydroxypropyl Starch Phosphate
Salicylic Acid
Pentylene Glycol
Mandelic Acid
Succinic Acid
Fragaria Vesca Leaf Extract
Azelaic Acid
Allantoin
Sodium Hyaluronate
Bisabolol
Opuntia Ficus-Indica Flower Extract
Niacinamide
Glucosamine
Zingiber Officinale Root Extract
Saccharomyces Ferment
Dextrin
Polydextrose
1,2-Hexanediol
Caprylyl Glycol
Coco-Caprylate/Caprate
Hydroxyacetophenone
Amylopectin
Butylene Glycol
Succinoglycan
Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate
Lauroyl Lysine
Sodium Phytate
Lecithin
Aminomethyl Propanol
Xanthan Gum
Citric Acid
Parfum
Water, Methylpropanediol, C9-12 Alkane, Fragaria Vesca Fruit Extract, Hydroxypropyl Starch Phosphate, Salicylic Acid, Pentylene Glycol, Mandelic Acid, Succinic Acid, Fragaria Vesca Leaf Extract, Azelaic Acid, Allantoin, Sodium Hyaluronate, Bisabolol, Opuntia Ficus-Indica Flower Extract, Niacinamide, Glucosamine, Zingiber Officinale Root Extract, Saccharomyces Ferment, Dextrin, Polydextrose, 1,2-Hexanediol, Caprylyl Glycol, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Hydroxyacetophenone, Amylopectin, Butylene Glycol, Succinoglycan, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, Lauroyl Lysine, Sodium Phytate, Lecithin, Aminomethyl Propanol, Xanthan Gum, Citric Acid, Parfum
C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Methyl Glucose Sesquistearate
Glycerin
Cetearyl Alcohol
Glyceryl Stearate
Dimethicone
Adenosine
Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract
Boerhavia Diffusa Root Extract
Cyclopentasiloxane
Sclerotium Gum
Propanediol
Phenoxyethanol
Water, Azelaic Acid, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Methyl Glucose Sesquistearate, Glycerin, Cetearyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate, Dimethicone, Salicylic Acid, Adenosine, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract, Boerhavia Diffusa Root Extract, Allantoin, Bisabolol, Cyclopentasiloxane, Xanthan Gum, Sclerotium Gum, Propanediol, Butylene Glycol, Phenoxyethanol
Reviews
Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Allantoin is a soothing ingredient known for its protective and moisturizing properties; it's basically a quiet workhorse ingredient you can find in a huge range of cosmetics.
Though it can be derived from the comfrey plant, allantoin is produced synthetically for cosmetic products to ensure purity.
Research shows it can encourage your skin cells to turn over and renew by stimulating keratinocyte and fibroblast proliferation.
It also has mild keratolytic properties to help loosen and shed dead skin cells without being harsh.
Studies also suggest allantoin can help calm inflammation by dialing down some of the chemical signals your skin sends out when it is irritated.
This ingredient is typically used in the 0.1-0.5% range, and the FDA recognizes it as a skin protectant in OTC products up to 2%.
Overall, allantoin is a wonderful addition to most routines; it is stable across a wide pH range (~4-8), works well with other ingredients, and is considered non-sensitizing/non-irritating.
Fun fact: Allantoin is naturally occurring in comfrey root, beets, chamomile, and wheat sprouts. Our bodies even produce it as a byproduct of uric acid metabolism.
Azelaic acid is a multitasker ingredient that helps treat acne, pigmentation, and irritation. It is a great option for sensitive skin.
What makes it special?
OTC Azelaic acid is usually available in concentrations from 10-15% and anything over requires a prescription.
Here's what each tier does best:
Unlike other acids, azelaic acid will not make your skin more photosensitive/sun sensitive.
Though this ingredient is naturally occurring in grains like wheat, rye, and barley, it is usually synthetically created for cosmetics to ensure stability and effectiveness.
Bisabolol is a gentle skin conditioner, antioxidant, and soothing ingredient.
It's primary claim to fame is soothing and research shows topically applied bisabolol can quiet the chemical messengers that cause your skin to become inflamed, helping to sooth any irritation.
A clinical study found that applying 0.5% bisabolol daily for 8 weeks produced an average 9% decrease in skin pigmentation. Researchers found it can also suppress the process that leads to excess melanin production in skin.
In vitro studies found that bisabolol combined with propylene glycol significantly increased skin permeability by increasing lipid fluidity in the stratum corneum.
You'll likely see use concentrations quite low, usually 0.1-0.2%.
Overall, this is a well-tolerated ingredient that works well in formulas designed for sensitive, reactive, or post-procedure skin.
Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Salicylic Acid (also known as beta hydroxy acid or BHA) is a well-known ingredient for treating skin that struggles with acne and clogged pores. It exfoliates both the skin's surface and deep within the pores to help clear out buildup, control oil, and reduce inflammation.
Unlike AHAs (alpha hydroxy acids), salicylic acid is oil-soluble. This allows it to penetrate into pores which makes it especially effective for treating blackheads and preventing future breakouts.
Salicylic acid is also known for its soothing properties. It has a similar structure to aspirin and can calm inflamed or irritated skin, making it a good option for acne-prone skin that is also sensitive.
Concentrations of 0.5-2% are recognized by the U.S. FDA as an over-the-counter topical acne product.
It can cause irritation and/or dryness if one's skin already has a compromised moisture barrier, so it's best to focus on repairing that before introducing this ingredient into your routine.
While salicylic acid does not increase sun sensitivity, it’s still important to wear sunscreen daily to protect your skin.
If you are looking for the ingredient called BHA or Butylated Hydroxyanisole, click here.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Xanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.
On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.
Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.