Skin science article
Glow Recipe Watermelon Glow AHA Night Treatment Versus First Aid Beauty Ultra Repair Hydra-Firm Night Cream
Glow Recipe Watermelon Glow AHA Night Treatment Versus First Aid Beauty Ultra Repair Hydra-Firm Night Cream This smoothing overnight mask is formulated around Niacinamide and Glycolic Acid to refine skin texture and brighten dull-looking skin. This anti-aging
Glow Recipe Watermelon Glow AHA Night Treatment Versus First Aid Beauty Ultra Repair Hydra-Firm Night Cream
This smoothing overnight mask is formulated around Niacinamide and Glycolic Acid to refine skin texture and brighten dull-looking skin.
This anti-aging night moisturizer is formulated around Butyrospermum Parkii Butter and Niacinamide to soften the look of wrinkles and hydrate skin.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Propanediol
C9-12 Alkane
Glycerin
Niacinamide
Citrullus Lanatus Fruit Extract
Maris Aqua
Glycolic Acid
Lactic Acid
Sodium Hyaluronate
Chenopodium Quinoa Seed Extract
Lactobacillus/Watermelon Fruit Ferment Extract
Lens Esculenta Fruit Extract
Pyrus Malus Fruit Extract
Leuconostoc Ferment Filtrate
Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract
Moringa Oleifera Seed Oil
Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate
Eclipta Prostrata Extract
Sodium PCA
Saccharide Isomerate
Hydroxyacetophenone
Polysorbate 60
Hydroxyethylcellulose
Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer
Caprylyl Glycol
1,2-Hexanediol
Cetearyl Alcohol
Sodium Magnesium Silicate
Sodium Lactate
Xanthan Gum
Sodium Citrate
Disodium Phosphate
Sodium Phosphate
Coco-Caprylate/Caprate
Potassium Sorbate
Sodium Benzoate
Citric Acid
Sodium Hydroxide
Parfum
Water, Propanediol, C9-12 Alkane, Glycerin, Niacinamide, Citrullus Lanatus Fruit Extract, Maris Aqua, Glycolic Acid, Lactic Acid, Sodium Hyaluronate, Chenopodium Quinoa Seed Extract, Lactobacillus/Watermelon Fruit Ferment Extract, Lens Esculenta Fruit Extract, Pyrus Malus Fruit Extract, Leuconostoc Ferment Filtrate, Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract, Moringa Oleifera Seed Oil, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, Eclipta Prostrata Extract, Sodium PCA, Saccharide Isomerate, Hydroxyacetophenone, Polysorbate 60, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Caprylyl Glycol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Cetearyl Alcohol, Sodium Magnesium Silicate, Sodium Lactate, Xanthan Gum, Sodium Citrate, Disodium Phosphate, Sodium Phosphate, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Benzoate, Citric Acid, Sodium Hydroxide, Parfum
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
Dimethicone
Glyceryl Stearate
C10-18 Triglycerides
Ethylhexyl Palmitate
Lactobacillus Ferment
Jojoba Esters
Cetyl Alcohol
Spilanthes Acmella Flower Extract
Helianthus Annuus Seed Cera
Acacia Decurrens Flower Cera
Algae Extract
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38
Avena Sativa Kernel Flour
Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12
Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7
Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
Chrysanthemum Parthenium Extract
Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract
Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin
Butylene Glycol
PEG-75 Stearate
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Ceteth-20
Steareth-20
Polyglycerin-3
Carbomer
Polysorbate 20
Phenoxyethanol
Tetrasodium EDTA
Water, Glycerin, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Dimethicone, Glyceryl Stearate, C10-18 Triglycerides, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Lactobacillus Ferment, Jojoba Esters, Cetyl Alcohol, Niacinamide, Spilanthes Acmella Flower Extract, Helianthus Annuus Seed Cera, Acacia Decurrens Flower Cera, Algae Extract, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38, Sodium Hyaluronate, Avena Sativa Kernel Flour, Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Chrysanthemum Parthenium Extract, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract, Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin, Sodium Lactate, Butylene Glycol, PEG-75 Stearate, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Ceteth-20, Steareth-20, Polyglycerin-3, Carbomer, Polysorbate 20, Phenoxyethanol, Xanthan Gum, Tetrasodium EDTA, Sodium Hydroxide
Reviews
Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Niacinamide is a multitasking form of vitamin B3 that strengthens the skin barrier, reduces pores and dark spots, regulates oil, and improves signs of aging.
And the best part? It's gentle and well-tolerated by most skin types, including sensitive and reactive skin.
You might have heard of "niacin flush", or the reddening of skin that causes itchiness. Niacinamide has not been found to cause this.
In very rare cases, some individuals may not be able to tolerate niacinamide at all or experience an allergic reaction to it.
If you are experiencing flaking, irritation, and dryness with this ingredient, be sure to double check all your products as this ingredient can be found in all categories of skincare.
When incorporating niacinamide into your routine, look out for concentration amounts. Typically, 5% niacinamide provides benefits such as fading dark spots. However, if you have sensitive skin, it is better to begin with a smaller concentration.
When you apply niacinamide to your skin, your body converts it into nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide (NAD). NAD is an essential coenzyme that is already found in your cells as "fuel" and powers countless biological processes.
In your skin, NAD helps repair cell damage, produce new healthy cells, support collagen production, strengthen the skin barrier, and fight environmental stressors (like UV and pollution).
Our natural NAD levels start to decline with age, leading to slower skin repair, visible aging, and a weaker skin barrier. By providing your skin niacinamide, you're recharging your skin's NAD levels. This leads to stronger, healthier, and younger looking skin.
Another name for vitamin B3 is nicotinamide. This vitamin is water-soluble and our bodies don't store it. We obtain Vitamin B3 from either food or skincare. Meat, fish, wheat, yeast, and leafy greens contain vitamin B3.
The type of niacinamide used in skincare is synthetically created.
Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.
In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.
Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:
Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.
Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.
You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.
Sodium Hydroxide is also known as lye or caustic soda. It is used to adjust the pH of products; many ingredients require a specific pH to be effective.
In small amounts, sodium hydroxide is considered safe to use. However, large amounts may cause chemical burns due to its high alkaline.
Your skin has a natural pH and acid mantle. This acid mantle helps prevent harmful bacteria from breaking through. The acid mantle also helps keep your skin hydrated.
"Alkaline" refers to a high pH level. A low pH level would be considered acidic.
Sodium Lactate is the sodium salt of lactic acid, an AHA. It is a humectant and sometimes used to adjust the pH of a product.
This ingredient is part of our skin's NMF, or natural moisturizing factor. Our NMF is essential for the hydration of our top skin layers and plasticity of skin. NMF also influences our skin's natural acid mantle and pH, which protects our skin from harmful bacteria.
High percentages of Sodium Lactate can have an exfoliating effect.
Fun fact: Sodium Lactate is produced from fermented sugar.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Xanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.
On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.
Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.