Peptide Skincare & BeautySkin science and ingredient guides

Skin science article

Glow Recipe Watermelon Glow AHA Night Treatment Versus First Aid Beauty Ultra Repair Hydra-Firm Night Cream

Glow Recipe Watermelon Glow AHA Night Treatment Versus First Aid Beauty Ultra Repair Hydra-Firm Night Cream This smoothing overnight mask is formulated around Niacinamide and Glycolic Acid to refine skin texture and brighten dull-looking skin. This anti-aging

Glow Recipe Watermelon Glow AHA Night Treatment Versus First Aid Beauty Ultra Repair Hydra-Firm Night Cream

This smoothing overnight mask is formulated around Niacinamide and Glycolic Acid to refine skin texture and brighten dull-looking skin.

This anti-aging night moisturizer is formulated around Butyrospermum Parkii Butter and Niacinamide to soften the look of wrinkles and hydrate skin.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Propanediol

C9-12 Alkane

Glycerin

Niacinamide

Citrullus Lanatus Fruit Extract

Maris Aqua

Glycolic Acid

Lactic Acid

Sodium Hyaluronate

Chenopodium Quinoa Seed Extract

Lactobacillus/Watermelon Fruit Ferment Extract

Lens Esculenta Fruit Extract

Pyrus Malus Fruit Extract

Leuconostoc Ferment Filtrate

Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract

Moringa Oleifera Seed Oil

Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate

Eclipta Prostrata Extract

Sodium PCA

Saccharide Isomerate

Hydroxyacetophenone

Polysorbate 60

Hydroxyethylcellulose

Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer

Caprylyl Glycol

1,2-Hexanediol

Cetearyl Alcohol

Sodium Magnesium Silicate

Sodium Lactate

Xanthan Gum

Sodium Citrate

Disodium Phosphate

Sodium Phosphate

Coco-Caprylate/Caprate

Potassium Sorbate

Sodium Benzoate

Citric Acid

Sodium Hydroxide

Parfum

Water, Propanediol, C9-12 Alkane, Glycerin, Niacinamide, Citrullus Lanatus Fruit Extract, Maris Aqua, Glycolic Acid, Lactic Acid, Sodium Hyaluronate, Chenopodium Quinoa Seed Extract, Lactobacillus/Watermelon Fruit Ferment Extract, Lens Esculenta Fruit Extract, Pyrus Malus Fruit Extract, Leuconostoc Ferment Filtrate, Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract, Moringa Oleifera Seed Oil, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, Eclipta Prostrata Extract, Sodium PCA, Saccharide Isomerate, Hydroxyacetophenone, Polysorbate 60, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Caprylyl Glycol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Cetearyl Alcohol, Sodium Magnesium Silicate, Sodium Lactate, Xanthan Gum, Sodium Citrate, Disodium Phosphate, Sodium Phosphate, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Benzoate, Citric Acid, Sodium Hydroxide, Parfum

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Butyrospermum Parkii Butter

Dimethicone

Glyceryl Stearate

C10-18 Triglycerides

Ethylhexyl Palmitate

Lactobacillus Ferment

Jojoba Esters

Cetyl Alcohol

Spilanthes Acmella Flower Extract

Helianthus Annuus Seed Cera

Acacia Decurrens Flower Cera

Algae Extract

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38

Avena Sativa Kernel Flour

Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12

Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7

Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract

Chrysanthemum Parthenium Extract

Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract

Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin

Butylene Glycol

PEG-75 Stearate

Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer

Ceteth-20

Steareth-20

Polyglycerin-3

Carbomer

Polysorbate 20

Phenoxyethanol

Tetrasodium EDTA

Water, Glycerin, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Dimethicone, Glyceryl Stearate, C10-18 Triglycerides, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Lactobacillus Ferment, Jojoba Esters, Cetyl Alcohol, Niacinamide, Spilanthes Acmella Flower Extract, Helianthus Annuus Seed Cera, Acacia Decurrens Flower Cera, Algae Extract, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38, Sodium Hyaluronate, Avena Sativa Kernel Flour, Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Chrysanthemum Parthenium Extract, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract, Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin, Sodium Lactate, Butylene Glycol, PEG-75 Stearate, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Ceteth-20, Steareth-20, Polyglycerin-3, Carbomer, Polysorbate 20, Phenoxyethanol, Xanthan Gum, Tetrasodium EDTA, Sodium Hydroxide

Reviews

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Niacinamide is a multitasking form of vitamin B3 that strengthens the skin barrier, reduces pores and dark spots, regulates oil, and improves signs of aging.

And the best part? It's gentle and well-tolerated by most skin types, including sensitive and reactive skin.

You might have heard of "niacin flush", or the reddening of skin that causes itchiness. Niacinamide has not been found to cause this.

In very rare cases, some individuals may not be able to tolerate niacinamide at all or experience an allergic reaction to it.

If you are experiencing flaking, irritation, and dryness with this ingredient, be sure to double check all your products as this ingredient can be found in all categories of skincare.

When incorporating niacinamide into your routine, look out for concentration amounts. Typically, 5% niacinamide provides benefits such as fading dark spots. However, if you have sensitive skin, it is better to begin with a smaller concentration.

When you apply niacinamide to your skin, your body converts it into nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide (NAD). NAD is an essential coenzyme that is already found in your cells as "fuel" and powers countless biological processes.

In your skin, NAD helps repair cell damage, produce new healthy cells, support collagen production, strengthen the skin barrier, and fight environmental stressors (like UV and pollution).

Our natural NAD levels start to decline with age, leading to slower skin repair, visible aging, and a weaker skin barrier. By providing your skin niacinamide, you're recharging your skin's NAD levels. This leads to stronger, healthier, and younger looking skin.

Another name for vitamin B3 is nicotinamide. This vitamin is water-soluble and our bodies don't store it. We obtain Vitamin B3 from either food or skincare. Meat, fish, wheat, yeast, and leafy greens contain vitamin B3.

The type of niacinamide used in skincare is synthetically created.

Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.

In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.

Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:

Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.

Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.

You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.

Sodium Hydroxide is also known as lye or caustic soda. It is used to adjust the pH of products; many ingredients require a specific pH to be effective.

In small amounts, sodium hydroxide is considered safe to use. However, large amounts may cause chemical burns due to its high alkaline.

Your skin has a natural pH and acid mantle. This acid mantle helps prevent harmful bacteria from breaking through. The acid mantle also helps keep your skin hydrated.

"Alkaline" refers to a high pH level. A low pH level would be considered acidic.

Sodium Lactate is the sodium salt of lactic acid, an AHA. It is a humectant and sometimes used to adjust the pH of a product.

This ingredient is part of our skin's NMF, or natural moisturizing factor. Our NMF is essential for the hydration of our top skin layers and plasticity of skin. NMF also influences our skin's natural acid mantle and pH, which protects our skin from harmful bacteria.

High percentages of Sodium Lactate can have an exfoliating effect.

Fun fact: Sodium Lactate is produced from fermented sugar.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

Xanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.

On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.

Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.

Similar Comparisons

The reference edit

Ingredients, questions
& further reading.

Connected source records selected through this article’s public topic index.

01

Formula cabinet

Ingredients & structured notes

Ingredient index

Ingredients Explained

  1. 01Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
  2. 02So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
  3. 03You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
  4. 04We don't have a description for Polyvinyl Alcohol yet.
  5. 05Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
  6. 06Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
  7. 07Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
  8. 08Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
  9. 09This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
  10. 10Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
  11. 11Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
  12. 12This ingredient is made when the Lactobacillus bacteria (the same kind that makes yogurt and kimchi) are allowed to ferment a nutrient medium.
  13. 13As it ferments, it collects lactic acid, peptides, enzymes, and other bioactive metabolites to provide:
  14. 14A 2023 review noted that probiotic fermentation ingredients like this one can enhance antioxidant capacity, reduce UV-induced oxidative damage, and support barrier function.
  15. 15One clinical study from the same year showed a Lactobacillus ferment lysate significantly reduced transepidermal water loss and improved skin hydration.
  16. 16Another review highlighted that topical Lactobacillus-based preparations can improve ceramide levels in the stratum corneum, support barrier integrity, and even help reduce S. aureus colonization in atopic dermatitis.
  17. 17Why is this so cool?
  18. 18Basically, your skin's outer layer works as a brick wall; skin cells are bricks and ceramides are the mortar holding it together. Moisture escapes, irritants get in, and your skin gets dry and reactive when ceramide levels drop. On top of that, "bad…
  19. 19So Lactobacillus ferment is basically patching the wall and evicting the troublemaker when it boosts ceramide production and help keep S. aureus in check.
  20. 20On top of all this, it also acts as a mild antimicrobial preservative booster.
Source · skinsort.com
02

Product index

Related product references

03

Comparison edit

Read side by side