Peptide Skincare & BeautySkin science and ingredient guides

Skin science article

Glymed Plus Oxygen Treatment Cream Versus Youth To The People Polypeptide-121 Future Cream with Peptides and Ceramides

Glymed Plus Oxygen Treatment Cream Versus Youth To The People Polypeptide-121 Future Cream with Peptides and Ceramides This brightening moisturizer is formulated around Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate to brighten dull-looking skin and refine skin texture. This anti-

Glymed Plus Oxygen Treatment Cream Versus Youth To The People Polypeptide-121 Future Cream with Peptides and Ceramides

This brightening moisturizer is formulated around Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate to brighten dull-looking skin and refine skin texture.

This anti-aging moisturizer is formulated around Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid and Acetyl Tetrapeptide-9 to soften the look of wrinkles and hydrate skin.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Isodecyl Neopentanoate

Isononyl Isononanoate

Glycerin

Tropaeolum Majus Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract

Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6

Hydroxystearyl Glucoside

Hydrolyzed Candida Saitoana Extract

Sorbitol

Lactobacillus/Wasabia Japonica Root Ferment Extract

Salvia Officinalis Extract

Tocopheryl Acetate

Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate

Hydroxystearyl Alcohol

Citrus Grandis Peel Oil

Sodium Phytate

Phenoxyethanol

Ethylhexylglycerin

Water, Isodecyl Neopentanoate, Isononyl Isononanoate, Glycerin, Tropaeolum Majus Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract, Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6, Hydroxystearyl Glucoside, Hydrolyzed Candida Saitoana Extract, Sorbitol, Lactobacillus/Wasabia Japonica Root Ferment Extract, Salvia Officinalis Extract, Tocopheryl Acetate, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Hydroxystearyl Alcohol, Citrus Grandis Peel Oil, Sodium Phytate, Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin

Dicaprylyl Carbonate

Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid

Trimethylolpropane Tricaprylate/Tricaprate

Tridecyl Trimellitate

Propanediol

Sh-Polypeptide-121

Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate

Panthenol

Niacinamide

Proline

Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice

Hydrolyzed Cannabis Sativa Seed Extract

Hydrolyzed Rice Protein

Hydrolyzed Pea Protein

Salvia Hispanica Seed Extract

Acetyl Tetrapeptide-11

Acetyl Tetrapeptide-9

Acetyl Tetrapeptide-2

Hibiscus Sabdariffa Fruit Extract

Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Beheneth-25 Methacrylate Crosspolymer

Hydrolyzed Linseed Seed

Castor Oil/Ipdi Copolymer

Ceramide AP

Ceramide NP

Cetearyl Alcohol

Cetearyl Glucoside

Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate

Coco-Caprylate/Caprate

Dilinoleic Acid

Benzyl Alcohol

Zingiber Officinale Root Extract

Bisabolol

Caprylyl Glycol

Carbomer

Dimethyl Isosorbide

Dipropylene Glycol

Erythritol

Glucose

1,2-Hexanediol

Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate

Glyceryl Stearate

Phytosphingosine

Polysorbate 20

Caprylhydroxamic Acid

Potassium Sorbate

Glycine

Hydroxyacetophenone

Sodium Benzoate

T-Butyl Alcohol

Citric Acid

Sodium Citrate

Sodium Lactate

Triheptanoin

Xanthan Gum

Water, Dicaprylyl Carbonate, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Trimethylolpropane Tricaprylate/Tricaprate, Tridecyl Trimellitate, Propanediol, Sh-Polypeptide-121, Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate, Panthenol, Niacinamide, Proline, Tocopheryl Acetate, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Hydrolyzed Cannabis Sativa Seed Extract, Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Hydrolyzed Pea Protein, Salvia Hispanica Seed Extract, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-11, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-9, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-2, Hibiscus Sabdariffa Fruit Extract, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Beheneth-25 Methacrylate Crosspolymer, Hydrolyzed Linseed Seed, Castor Oil/Ipdi Copolymer, Ceramide AP, Ceramide NP, Cetearyl Alcohol, Cetearyl Glucoside, Glycerin, Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Dilinoleic Acid, Benzyl Alcohol, Zingiber Officinale Root Extract, Bisabolol, Caprylyl Glycol, Carbomer, Dimethyl Isosorbide, Dipropylene Glycol, Erythritol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Glucose, 1,2-Hexanediol, Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate, Glyceryl Stearate, Phytosphingosine, Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6, Polysorbate 20, Caprylhydroxamic Acid, Potassium Sorbate, Glycine, Hydroxyacetophenone, Sodium Benzoate, T-Butyl Alcohol, Citric Acid, Sodium Citrate, Sodium Lactate, Triheptanoin, Xanthan Gum

Reviews

Be the first to review

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:

The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.

Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6 is a texture enhancer and pH adjuster.

It is be used to thicken water-based products and create a gel-texture with a velvet feel.

One manufacturer claims this ingredient to have a pH range of 2-8 and to be biodegradable.

This ingredient is also known as Sepimax Zen.

Tocopheryl Acetate is a stable, shelf-friendly form of vitamin E.

Formulators love it because plain vitamin E oxidizes quickly once it hits air. This acetate version stays stable and resists going off, helping to extend a product's shelf life.

It's actually inactive on its own and works like a slow-release "storage" form; the enzymes in your skin called esterases gradually convert it into active vitamin E over time.

One in vivo study showed 5% of the acetate in the living layer of the epidermis converted to vitamin E after 5 days of application. This study also found the skin gained protection against UV damage even though the conversion was slow and small.

Once converted, vitamin E acts as a skin's main fat-soluble antioxidant that fights free radicals to protect skin from damage.

Topical vitamin E generally boosts the skin's photoprotection, and it reduced UV-damage in animal models.

This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.

Overall, it has a pretty solid safety profile and has been found to be non-irritating and non-comedogenic. Allergic reactions may happen but stay rare due to how widely the ingredient gets used.

The concentration will vary depending on the formula; industry data shows 0.1% in baby lotions, 3% in lipsticks, and 5% in foot powders. You can also find this ingredient at 100% in a pure vitamin E oil.

Most leave-on skincare keeps it at the lower end, often between 0.5-1%.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

Similar Comparisons

The reference edit

Ingredients, questions
& further reading.

Connected source records selected through this article’s public topic index.

01

Formula cabinet

Ingredients & structured notes

Ingredient index

Ingredients Explained

  1. 01These ingredients are found in both products.
  2. 02Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
  3. 03Caprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.
  4. 04Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.
  5. 05Because it is not a free-fatty acid, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).
  6. 06Carbomer is a synthetic thickening and gelling agent. It's basically the ingredient that gives a lot of serums, gels, creams, and sunscreens their smooth, non-sticky texture.
  7. 07Although legally permitted at very high levels, carbomers are normally used at concentrations below 1%.
  8. 08It also needs to be neutralized to actually thicken, and because it is a large molecule, it doesn't really penetrate the skin barrier.
  9. 09Allergy-wise, the risk is very low. Clinical studies show carbomers have low potential for skin irritation/sensitization even at concentrations up to 100%.
  10. 10A 2024 UK study patch-tested 1,302 patients and found true allergy to the parent group of carbomer to be rare with no confirmed relevant reactions.
  11. 11Citric Acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) naturally found in citrus fruits like oranges, lemons, and limes.
  12. 12Like other AHAs, citric acid can exfoliate skin by breaking down the bonds that hold dead skin cells together. This helps reveal smoother and brighter skin underneath.
  13. 13However, this exfoliating effect only happens at high concentrations (20%) which can be hard to find in cosmetic products.
  14. 14Due to this, citric acid is usually included in small amounts as a pH adjuster. This helps keep products slightly more acidic and compatible with skin's natural pH.
  15. 15In skincare formulas, citric acid can:
  16. 16While it can provide some skin benefits, research shows lactic acid and glycolic acid are generally more effective and less irritating exfoliants.
  17. 17Most citric acid used in skincare today is made by fermenting sugars (usually from molasses). This synthetic version is identical to the natural citrus form but easier to stabilize and use in formulations.
  18. 18Rosacea skin has a lower threshold for acids generally, with 62.5% of rosacea subjects in one study reacting to lactic acid in a sting test. This is why we mark citric acid as a potential rosacea trigger.
  19. 19However, this ingredient shows up as a pH adjuster or chelator at roughly 0.1-1% in many products. These low levels are unlikely to be an issue for rosacea skin and becomes a potential trigger at exfoliating concentrations (20%). Because everybody's…
  20. 20Glucose is a simple sugar (a monosaccharide). In skincare, it is mostly a humectant and skin conditioning agent.
Source · skinsort.com
02

Product index

Related product references

03

Comparison edit

Read side by side