Skin science article
Graymelin Multi Peptide Ampoule Versus Medik8 Liquid Peptides
Graymelin Multi Peptide Ampoule Versus Medik8 Liquid Peptides This anti-aging serum is formulated around Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 and Adenosine to soften the look of wrinkles and strengthen the skin barrier. This anti-aging serum is formulated around Carnosine and
Graymelin Multi Peptide Ampoule Versus Medik8 Liquid Peptides
This anti-aging serum is formulated around Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 and Adenosine to soften the look of wrinkles and strengthen the skin barrier.
This anti-aging serum is formulated around Carnosine and Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5 to soften the look of wrinkles and refine skin texture.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Butylene Glycol
Glycerin
1,2-Hexanediol
Acetyl Hexapeptide-8
Caprylyl Glycol
Glycosyl Trehalose
Hydrogenated Starch Hydrolysate
Betaine
Allantoin
Carbomer
Polyglyceryl-4 Caprate
Tromethamine
Adenosine
Ethylhexylglycerin
Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate
Pentylene Glycol
Lavandula Angustifolia Oil
Aspalathus Linearis Extract
Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract
Commiphora Myrrha Resin Extract
Perilla Frutescens Leaf Extract
Yucca Schidigera Root Extract
Copper Tripeptide-1
Nicotinoyl Tripeptide-1
Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4
Caffeoyl Sh-Octapeptide-4
Caffeoyl Tripeptide-1
Sh-Octapeptide-4
Sh-Decapeptide-9
Sh-Pentapeptide-19
Linalool
Water, Butylene Glycol, Glycerin, 1,2-Hexanediol, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Caprylyl Glycol, Glycosyl Trehalose, Hydrogenated Starch Hydrolysate, Betaine, Allantoin, Carbomer, Polyglyceryl-4 Caprate, Tromethamine, Adenosine, Ethylhexylglycerin, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Pentylene Glycol, Lavandula Angustifolia Oil, Aspalathus Linearis Extract, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract, Commiphora Myrrha Resin Extract, Perilla Frutescens Leaf Extract, Yucca Schidigera Root Extract, Copper Tripeptide-1, Nicotinoyl Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4, Caffeoyl Sh-Octapeptide-4, Caffeoyl Tripeptide-1, Sh-Octapeptide-4, Sh-Decapeptide-9, Sh-Pentapeptide-19, Linalool
Inulin
Sodium Hyaluronate
Panthenol
Alpha-Glucan Oligosaccharide
Carnosine
Polysorbate 20
Phenoxyethanol
Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin
Dunaliella Salina Extract
Citric Acid
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5
Sodium Benzoate
Tetrapeptide-21
Pentapeptide-18
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1
Pantolactone
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38
Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7
Glyceryl Caprylate
Lactic Acid/Glycolic Acid Copolymer
Polyvinyl Alcohol
Phenylpropanol
Copper Palmitoyl Heptapeptide-14
Heptapeptide-15 Palmitate
Potassium Sorbate
Xanthan Gum
Water, Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, Inulin, Sodium Hyaluronate, Panthenol, Alpha-Glucan Oligosaccharide, Carnosine, Carbomer, Polysorbate 20, Caprylyl Glycol, Phenoxyethanol, Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin, Dunaliella Salina Extract, Ethylhexylglycerin, Citric Acid, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5, Sodium Benzoate, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Tetrapeptide-21, Pentapeptide-18, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Pantolactone, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Glyceryl Caprylate, Lactic Acid/Glycolic Acid Copolymer, Polyvinyl Alcohol, Phenylpropanol, Copper Palmitoyl Heptapeptide-14, Heptapeptide-15 Palmitate, Potassium Sorbate, Xanthan Gum
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Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 (also known as Argireline) is a synthetic hexapeptide that is often called a "topical Botox alternative".
It works by mimicking how Botox relaxes muscles; it interferes with the signaling process that tells your facial muscles to contract. This can help soften expression lines like forehead wrinkles or crow's feet over time.
The comparison to Botox does have limits because the molecule is water-loving and relatively large.
Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 has a hard time absorbing deeply enough through the skin's outer barrier to actually reach the muscles.
So whether it truly works the way Botox does at a biological level is still up for debate, but early clinical outcomes are fairly encouraging.
A 12 week human study of a multi-ingredient regimen containing this ingredient saw:
While some studies have observed improvements in wrinkle appearance, it is important to note that more consistent results are seen in multi-ingredient formulations (vs just Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 alone).
Some research studies also used higher concentrations (up to 10%) while this ingredient is usually found in concentrations up to 0.005% in leave-on formulations.
Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Caprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.
Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.
Because it is not a free-fatty acid, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).
Carbomer is a synthetic thickening and gelling agent. It's basically the ingredient that gives a lot of serums, gels, creams, and sunscreens their smooth, non-sticky texture.
Although legally permitted at very high levels, carbomers are normally used at concentrations below 1%.
It also needs to be neutralized to actually thicken, and because it is a large molecule, it doesn't really penetrate the skin barrier.
Allergy-wise, the risk is very low. Clinical studies show carbomers have low potential for skin irritation/sensitization even at concentrations up to 100%.
A 2024 UK study patch-tested 1,302 patients and found true allergy to the parent group of carbomer to be rare with no confirmed relevant reactions.
Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!