Skin science article
Guerlain Orchidee Imperiale The Molecular Concentrate Eye Cream Versus Summer Fridays Light Aura Vitamin C + Peptide Eye Cream
Guerlain Orchidee Imperiale The Molecular Concentrate Eye Cream Versus Summer Fridays Light Aura Vitamin C + Peptide Eye Cream This anti-aging eye moisturizer is formulated around Ectoin and Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 to soften the look of wrinkles and hydrate skin.
Guerlain Orchidee Imperiale The Molecular Concentrate Eye Cream Versus Summer Fridays Light Aura Vitamin C + Peptide Eye Cream
This anti-aging eye moisturizer is formulated around Ectoin and Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 to soften the look of wrinkles and hydrate skin.
This brightening eye moisturizer is formulated around Niacinamide and Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate to brighten dull-looking skin and soften the look of wrinkles.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Glycerin
Limnanthes Alba Seed Oil
Butylene Glycol
Propanediol
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
Pentylene Glycol
Ethylhexyl Palmitate
Lauroyl Lysine
Gastrodia Elata Root Extract
Phytosteryl/Octyldodecyl Lauroyl Glutamate
Hydrogenated Lecithin
Sodium Polyacrylate
Ectoin
Avena Sativa Kernel Extract
Hydroxyacetophenone
Cellulose
Chlorphenesin
Parfum
1,2-Hexanediol
Caprylyl Glycol
Synthetic Fluorphlogopite
Silica
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate
Tocopheryl Acetate
CI 77891
Phytosterols
Dendrobium Nobile Extract
Adenosine
Trihydroxystearin
Sodium Benzoate
Xanthan Gum
Bacillus Ferment
Glyceryl Caprylate
Tin Oxide
Tropaeolum Majus Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract
Sodium Hyaluronate
Glycine Soja Oil
Tocopherol
Acetyl Hexapeptide-8
Diamond Powder
Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate
Glucomannan
Water, Glycerin, Limnanthes Alba Seed Oil, Butylene Glycol, Propanediol, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Pentylene Glycol, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Lauroyl Lysine, Gastrodia Elata Root Extract, Phytosteryl/Octyldodecyl Lauroyl Glutamate, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Sodium Polyacrylate, Ectoin, Avena Sativa Kernel Extract, Hydroxyacetophenone, Cellulose, Chlorphenesin, Parfum, 1,2-Hexanediol, Caprylyl Glycol, Synthetic Fluorphlogopite, Silica, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate, Tocopheryl Acetate, CI 77891, Phytosterols, Dendrobium Nobile Extract, Adenosine, Trihydroxystearin, Sodium Benzoate, Xanthan Gum, Bacillus Ferment, Glyceryl Caprylate, Tin Oxide, Tropaeolum Majus Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, Glycine Soja Oil, Tocopherol, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Diamond Powder, Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate, Glucomannan
Behenyl Alcohol
Coco-Caprylate
Cetearyl Alcohol
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Niacinamide
Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
Glyceryl Stearate
Jojoba Esters
Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate
Isostearyl Isostearate
Persea Gratissima Oil
Rosa Canina Seed Oil
Caffeine
Allantoin
Phospholipids
Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil
Papaver Rhoeas Extract
Carica Papaya Leaf Extract
Curcuma Longa Root Extract
Corallina Officinalis Extract
Coccinia Indica Fruit Extract
Helianthus Annuus Seed Wax
Ocimum Sanctum Leaf Extract
Ocimum Basilicum Flower/Leaf Extract
Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
Bambusa Vulgaris Leaf/Stem Extract
Pisum Sativum Extract
Glucosamine Hcl
Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract
Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract
Polyglycerin-3
Diheptyl Succinate
Capryloyl Glycerin/Sebacic Acid Copolymer
Sorbitan Isostearate
Sodium Phytate
Glyceryl Undecylenate
Phenethyl Alcohol
Polysorbate 60
Mica
Water, Behenyl Alcohol, Glycerin, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Pentylene Glycol, Coco-Caprylate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Niacinamide, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Glyceryl Stearate, Jojoba Esters, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Isostearyl Isostearate, Sodium Hyaluronate, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Persea Gratissima Oil, Rosa Canina Seed Oil, Caffeine, Allantoin, Propanediol, Phospholipids, Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil, Papaver Rhoeas Extract, Tocopherol, Carica Papaya Leaf Extract, Curcuma Longa Root Extract, Corallina Officinalis Extract, Coccinia Indica Fruit Extract, Helianthus Annuus Seed Wax, Ocimum Sanctum Leaf Extract, Ocimum Basilicum Flower/Leaf Extract, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Bambusa Vulgaris Leaf/Stem Extract, Pisum Sativum Extract, Glucosamine Hcl, Silica, Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract, Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract, Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate, Polyglycerin-3, Diheptyl Succinate, Capryloyl Glycerin/Sebacic Acid Copolymer, Sorbitan Isostearate, Sodium Phytate, Glyceryl Caprylate, Glyceryl Undecylenate, Xanthan Gum, 1,2-Hexanediol, Caprylyl Glycol, Sodium Benzoate, Phenethyl Alcohol, Polysorbate 60, Mica, CI 77891
Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.
It is a:
Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin
Emollient, helping to soften skin
Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas
Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives
Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 (also known as Argireline) is a synthetic hexapeptide that is often called a "topical Botox alternative".
It works by mimicking how Botox relaxes muscles; it interferes with the signaling process that tells your facial muscles to contract. This can help soften expression lines like forehead wrinkles or crow's feet over time.
The comparison to Botox does have limits because the molecule is water-loving and relatively large.
Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 has a hard time absorbing deeply enough through the skin's outer barrier to actually reach the muscles.
So whether it truly works the way Botox does at a biological level is still up for debate, but early clinical outcomes are fairly encouraging.
A 12 week human study of a multi-ingredient regimen containing this ingredient saw:
While some studies have observed improvements in wrinkle appearance, it is important to note that more consistent results are seen in multi-ingredient formulations (vs just Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 alone).
Some research studies also used higher concentrations (up to 10%) while this ingredient is usually found in concentrations up to 0.005% in leave-on formulations.
This ingredient is also known as shea butter. It is a plant-derived extract from the nuts of the Africa shea tree and one of the most well-studied emollients.
Because it has a high concentration of fatty acids (primarily oleic, stearic, and linoleic) it is able to form a protective barrier on the skin's surface. This helps seal in moisture and prevents transepidermal water loss (TEWL).
In vitro research found an increase in skin hydration by 58% and a decrease in TEWL by 37.8% after 24 hours of applying this ingredient (pretty impressive for a single ingredient!).
Besides hydration, shea butter also contains triterpenes that have anti-inflammatory potential. In particule, lupeol cinnamate has shown the highest anti-inflammatory activity in vivo.
Shea butter also contains vitamins A and E which may contribute to antioxidant activity.
While Shea Butter has an SPF rating of about 3-4, it is not a sunscreen replacement.
This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe because its fatty acids fall within the C11-C24 range that the Malassezia yeast can metabolize.
Caprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.
Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.
Because it is not a free-fatty acid, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).
Ci 77891 is a white pigment from Titanium dioxide. It is naturally found in minerals such as rutile and ilmenite.
It's main function is to add a white color to cosmetics. It can also be mixed with other colors to create different shades.
Ci 77891 is commonly found in sunscreens due to its ability to block UV rays.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Glyceryl Caprylate comes from glycerin and caprylic acid. It is an emollient, co-emulsifier, and preservative booster.
Its short C8 fatty acid chain makes it behave differently from its longer-chain emollient cousins like Glyceryl Stearate. It feels more lightweight, fast-absorbing, and silky instead of rich and waxy.
As a co-emulsifier, its "head" and "tail" sit at the oil-water interface. But overall, the short C8 tail and not being water soluble means it doesn't really have the muscle to emulsify a formula on its own. That's why you'll often see it paired with a primary emulsifier like Cetearyl Glucoside.
Interestingly, Glyceryl Caprylate acts as a preservative booster. This is because its fatty-acid backbone disrupts microbial lipid membranes. It shows excellent activity against bacteria and yeast but is weaker against mold.
Typical concentrations range from 0.5-1% and this ingredient is generally non-irritating.
Because this ingredient has a C8 fatty acid chain, it is outside the range that the Malassezia yeast metabolizes (making it fungal acne safe).
Pentylene Glycol (1,2-pentanediol) is a multitasking little diol with three main roles in a formula:
Research on alkanediols (the family pentylene glycol belongs to) show they work by disrupting microbial cell membranes. This disruption helps the primary preservative system in a product work more effectively at lower doses.
On the safety side, the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has concluded this ingredient to be safe as used in current cosmetic practices + concentrations.
Typical use levels in a formula run about 1-5%.
Propanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.
It’s often used to:
Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.
Silica, also known as silicon dioxide, is a naturally occurring mineral. It is used as a fine, spherical, and porous powder in cosmetics.
Though it has exfoliant properties, the function of silica varies depending on the product.
The unique structure of silica enhances the spreadability and adds smoothness, making it a great texture enhancer.
It is also used as an active carrier, emulsifier, and mattifier due to its ability to absorb excess oil.
In some products, tiny microneedles called spicules are made from silica or hydrolyzed sponge. When you rub them in, they lightly polish away dead skin layers and enhance the penetration of active ingredients.
Sodium Benzoate is a preservative. It's used in both cosmetic and food products to inhibit the growth of mold and bacteria. It is typically produced synthetically.
Both the US FDA and EU Health Committee have approved the use of sodium benzoate. In the US, levels of 0.1% (of the total product) are allowed.
Sodium benzoate works as a preservative by inhibiting the growth of bacteria inside of cells. It prevents the cell from fermenting a type of sugar using an enzyme called phosphofructokinase.
It is the salt of benzoic acid. Foods containing sodium benzoate include soda, salad dressings, condiments, fruit juices, wines, and snack foods.
Studies for using ascorbic acid and sodium benzoate in cosmetics are lacking, especially in skincare routines with multiple steps.
We always recommend speaking with a professional, such as a dermatologist, if you have any concerns.
Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.
In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.
Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:
Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.
Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.
You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.
Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate is an amino-acid based emulsifier. It is made by combining stearic acid with L-glutamic acid and neutralizing it to a sodium salt.
As an emulsifier, it works mainly as an oil-in-water one and helps keep the oil and water in your formulas blended. It also contributes to a smooth, non-greasy skin feel.
This ingredient is biodegradable and commonly available in natural/COSMOS-certified grades.
Tocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.
You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.
Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.
It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.
This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.
This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.
In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.
Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Xanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.
On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.
Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.