HEMA Sensitive Night Cream Versus Eminence Organics Marine Flower Peptide Night Cream

HEMA Sensitive Night Cream Versus Eminence Organics Marine Flower Peptide Night Cream

This calming night moisturizer is formulated around Allantoin to calm redness and hydrate skin.

This night moisturizer is formulated around Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice to hydrate skin.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Gossypium Herbaceum Seed Oil

Dibutyl Adipate

Glycerin

Cetearyl Alcohol

Butylene Glycol

Theobroma Cacao Seed Butter

Butyrospermum Parkii Butter

Pentylene Glycol

Allantoin

Salvia Miltiorrhiza Root Extract

Hydroxyphenyl Propamidobenzoic Acid

Hydroxyacetophenone

Cetearyl Glucoside

Caprylyl Glycol

1,2-Hexanediol

Xanthan Gum

Carbomer

Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate

Lecithin

Sodium Hydroxide

Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil

Ascorbyl Palmitate

Tocopherol

Citric Acid

Water, Gossypium Herbaceum Seed Oil, Dibutyl Adipate, Glycerin, Cetearyl Alcohol, Butylene Glycol, Theobroma Cacao Seed Butter, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Pentylene Glycol, Allantoin, Salvia Miltiorrhiza Root Extract, Hydroxyphenyl Propamidobenzoic Acid, Hydroxyacetophenone, Cetearyl Glucoside, Caprylyl Glycol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Xanthan Gum, Carbomer, Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate, Lecithin, Sodium Hydroxide, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Tocopherol, Citric Acid

Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice

Oryza Sativa

Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract

Zea Mays Silk Extract

Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract

Jasminum Officinale Flower Extract

Vitis Vinifera Seed Oil

Prunus Armeniaca Kernel Oil

Hydrolyzed Rice Protein

Glyceryl Stearate

Hydrolyzed Plukenetia Volubilis Seed Extract

Alteromonas Ferment Filtrate

Aphanizomenon Flos-Aquae Extract

Sodium Acrylates Copolymer

Tocopheryl Acetate

Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Peel Oil

Hydrogenated Starch Hydrolysate

Ocimum Basilicum Oil

Guaiazulene

Iron Oxides

Bambusa Vulgaris Extract

Caramel

Euterpe Oleracea Fruit Extract

Citrus Limon Peel

Malpighia Glabra Fruit Extract

Emblica Officinalis Fruit

Adansonia Digitata Seed Oil

Myrciaria Dubia Fruit Extract

Daucus Carota Sativa Root Extract

Cocos Nucifera Oil

Milk

Lycium Barbarum Fruit Extract

Tapioca Starch

Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Oryza Sativa, Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract, Zea Mays Silk Extract, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Glycerin, Jasminum Officinale Flower Extract, Vitis Vinifera Seed Oil, Prunus Armeniaca Kernel Oil, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Water, Cetearyl Alcohol, Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Glyceryl Stearate, Hydrolyzed Plukenetia Volubilis Seed Extract, Alteromonas Ferment Filtrate, Aphanizomenon Flos-Aquae Extract, Sodium Acrylates Copolymer, Lecithin, Hydroxyacetophenone, Tocopheryl Acetate, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Peel Oil, 1,2-Hexanediol, Caprylyl Glycol, Hydrogenated Starch Hydrolysate, Butylene Glycol, Xanthan Gum, Ocimum Basilicum Oil, Guaiazulene, Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate, Iron Oxides, Bambusa Vulgaris Extract, Caramel, Euterpe Oleracea Fruit Extract, Citrus Limon Peel, Malpighia Glabra Fruit Extract, Emblica Officinalis Fruit, Adansonia Digitata Seed Oil, Myrciaria Dubia Fruit Extract, Daucus Carota Sativa Root Extract, Cocos Nucifera Oil, Milk, Lycium Barbarum Fruit Extract, Tapioca Starch

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Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.

It is a:

Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin

Emollient, helping to soften skin

Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas

Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives

Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:

Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.

Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.

This ingredient is also known as shea butter. It is a plant-derived extract from the nuts of the Africa shea tree and one of the most well-studied emollients.

Because it has a high concentration of fatty acids (primarily oleic, stearic, and linoleic) it is able to form a protective barrier on the skin's surface. This helps seal in moisture and prevents transepidermal water loss (TEWL).

In vitro research found an increase in skin hydration by 58% and a decrease in TEWL by 37.8% after 24 hours of applying this ingredient (pretty impressive for a single ingredient!).

Besides hydration, shea butter also contains triterpenes that have anti-inflammatory potential. In particule, lupeol cinnamate has shown the highest anti-inflammatory activity in vivo.

Shea butter also contains vitamins A and E which may contribute to antioxidant activity.

While Shea Butter has an SPF rating of about 3-4, it is not a sunscreen replacement.

This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe because its fatty acids fall within the C11-C24 range that the Malassezia yeast can metabolize.

Caprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.

Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.

Because it is not a free-fatty acid, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).

Cetearyl alcohol is a waxy mixture of two fatty alcohols: cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol. It is an emollient and emulsifier.

Despite having "alcohol" in its name, it has nothing to do with drying solvent alcohols; the FDA also allows "alcohol-free" products to contain fatty alcohols like this ingredient.

It plays several roles in a formula:

Typical use levels for this ingredient sit around 1-10% and the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has affirmed safety at concentrations up to 25% in leave-on products.

Multiple assessments have found it to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing to most people.

However, there have been some cases of allergic contact dermatitis in patients with chronically compromised skin barriers.

Cetearyl alcohol has a comedogenic rating of 2 and irritancy rating of 1. Both of these numbers come from the 1989 study that used rabbit ears; a "2" means mildly comedogenic and a "1" means low irritancy.

Here's the catch: rabbit skin is more sensitive than human skin and throws a lot of false positives. A 1996 reappraisal found that ingredients rated 1-2 in the rabbit ear tests are generally safe for humans.

Remember comedogenic ratings are unable to assess the entire formula of a product or how it will react on your skin. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure about certain ingredients.

This ingredient is not fungal acne safe. Cetearyl alcohol is a fatty alcohol with chain lengths that fall within the range that Malassezia can metabolize.

A 2019 study has also observed Malassezia growth in the presence of this ingredient, confirming it to be not-fungal acne safe.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil is a plant oil derived from the seeds of a sunflower.

It is rich in fatty acids, primarily linoleic acid and oleic acid. This gives it emollient and skin conditioning properties.

The reason this ingredient is so effective is because it forms a thin film on the skin that reduces transepidermal water loss (TEWL) while supplying linoleic acid to the stratum corneum to improve barrier strength.

The high linoleic acid content is particularly noteworthy for acne-prone skin.

Research suggests that acne-prone skin tends to be deficient in linoleic acid in sebum. Topical application may help replenish this to support a healthier follicular environment and less comedone-promoting sebum.

One randomized study found sunflower seed oil preserved skin barrier integrity in adult volunteers with and without atopic dermatitis (outperforming olive oil).

This ingredient is well-studied, gentle, and an effective emollient suitable for most skin types.

On fungal acne: This ingredient may not be Fungal acne (Malassezia folliculitis) safe. This is because it contains fatty acids with carbon chain lengths in the C11-C24 range.

Hydroxyacetophenone is a small phenolic molecule that earns its place in a formulas as an antioxidant and preservative booster.

As a phenol, it is able to neutralize free radicals to protect both the product and the skin from oxidative stress.

Though it can't kill microbes on its own, it works as a good supporting agent when combined with other preservatives like Phenoxyethanol or 1,2-Hexanediol.

This ingredient naturally occurs as piceol in Norwegian spruce needles (~0.4-1.1% dry weight and in cloudberries). Though the cosmetic-grade material is synthesized for purity and consistency.

You'll usually see it used at low levels and suppliers recommend up to 1% added to a water phase.

Safety testing was done at concentrations like 0.05% in SPF products and 0.5% in a Human Repeated Insult Patch Test. The safety evidence is assuring; this ingredient is safe for cosmetics in current use and also holds safety status as a food flavoring as well.

An honest caveat: the "soothing" and "anti-inflammatory" claims come mostly from supplier marketing rather than published clinical trials. The Cosmetic Ingredient Review's own literature search found no useful efficacy studies on this ingredient.

So the antioxidant and preservative-boosting roles are the well supported ones while the calming benefit is plausible but thinly evidenced.

Overall, this is a well-tolerated, low-irritation multitasker that quietly helps a formula stay fresh and stable.

Lecithin is a term for a group of substances found in the cell membranes of plants, animals, and humans. They are made up of phospholipids.

Thanks to its amphiphilic structure (water-loving head and oil-loving tail), it is a true multitasker:

It plays well with most ingredients and is typically used at 0.1-1%. However, concentrations up to 50% have been reported in moisturizers.

Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate is a chelating agent. Chelating agents help prevent metal ions from binding to other ingredients. This helps prevent unwanted effects and reactions from a product. These metal ions may come from water and are found in miniscule amounts.

Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate can also help other preservatives be more effective.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

Xanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.

On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.

Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.

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