Skin science article
Herbal Face Food The Cream Versus Eminence Organics Marine Flower Peptide Night Cream
Herbal Face Food The Cream Versus Eminence Organics Marine Flower Peptide Night Cream This calming moisturizer is formulated around Aloe Barbadensis Leaf and Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil to calm redness and hydrate skin. This night moisturizer is formulated a
Herbal Face Food The Cream Versus Eminence Organics Marine Flower Peptide Night Cream
This calming moisturizer is formulated around Aloe Barbadensis Leaf and Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil to calm redness and hydrate skin.
This night moisturizer is formulated around Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice to hydrate skin.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Aloe Barbadensis Leaf
Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
Astaxanthin
Helichrysum Stoechas Flower Extract
Garcinia Indica Seed Butter
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
Cocos Nucifera Oil
Ricinus Communis Seed Oil
Panax Ginseng Seed Oil
Helianthus Annuus Flower
Cyamopsis Tetragonoloba Gum
Polyglyceryl-6 Trichilia Emetica Seedate
Sodium Astrocaryum Murumuruate
Virola Surinamensis Shell Oil
Platonia Insignis Seed Oil
Sodium Theobroma Grandiflorum Seedate
Cymbopogon Schoenanthus Extract
Citrus Reticulata Fruit
Moringa Oleifera Callus Extract
Earthworm Powder
Caryocar Brasiliense Fruit Oil
Pentaclethra Macroloba Seed Oil
Pycnanthus Angolensis Nut Oil
Corallina Officinalis Powder
Trifolium Pratense Flower Powder
Poria Cocos Powder
Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Powder
Plukenetia Volubilis Seed Oil
Shorea Robusta Seed Butter
Coffea Arabica Husk Extract
Olea Europaea Fruit Oil
Nigella Sativa Seed Oil
Thymus Vulgaris Leaf
Origanum Vulgare Leaf
Commiphora Myrrha Resin
Daucus Carota Sativa Callus Lysate
Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract
Leptospermum Scoparium Branch/Leaf Oil
Glycyrrhiza Uralensis Extract
Daucus Carota Sativa Root
Curcuma Longa Root Extract
Chamomilla Recutita (Matricaria) Flower Juice
Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
Centella Asiatica Extract
Artemisia Argyi Leaf Oil
Lactobacillus/Ilex Paraguariensis Leaf Ferment Filtrate
Ganoderma Lucidum Extract
Hericium Erinaceus Extract
Equisetum Arvense Powder
Paullinia Cupana Seed Powder
Citrus Nobilis
Olibanum
Daucus Carota Sativa Seed Oil
Citrus Aurantium Bergamia Peel Oil
Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root
Rubus Idaeus Fruit
Chamomilla Recutita Extract
Vitis Rotundifolia Callus Extract
Propolis Cera
Curcumin
Artemisia Vulgaris Oil
Rhodiola Rosea Callus
Ilex Guayusa Leaf Extract
Melissa Officinalis Callus Lysate
Vanilla Planifolia Fruit Extract
CI 75810
Jasminum Grandiflorum Flower Extract
Honey
Achillea Millefolium Oil
Agastache Mexicana Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract
Illicium Verum Leaf Oil
Mentha Piperita Leaf
Eucalyptus Globulus Oil
Satureja Montana Oil
Melaleuca Quinquenervia Oil
Eucalyptus Maculata Extract
Melaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Oil
Salvia Officinalis Oil
Cinnamomum Cassia Oil
Camphor
Callitris Intratropica Wood Oil
Rosa Damascena Callus
Algae
Plumeria Rubra Flower Extract
Shilajit Extract
Citrus Aurantium Amara Peel
Polianthes Tuberosa Polysaccharide
Angelica Archangelica Extract
Inula Helenium Extract
Rose Flower Oil
Magnolia Champaca Flower Oil
Citrus Limon Peel
Elettaria Cardamomum Seed Oil
Santalum Album
Pogostemon Cablin Leaf/Stem Extract
Cananga Odorata Flower Cera
Vetiveria Zizanoides Root Water
Aloe Barbadensis Leaf, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Astaxanthin, Helichrysum Stoechas Flower Extract, Garcinia Indica Seed Butter, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Cocos Nucifera Oil, Ricinus Communis Seed Oil, Panax Ginseng Seed Oil, Helianthus Annuus Flower, Cyamopsis Tetragonoloba Gum, Polyglyceryl-6 Trichilia Emetica Seedate, Sodium Astrocaryum Murumuruate, Virola Surinamensis Shell Oil, Platonia Insignis Seed Oil, Sodium Theobroma Grandiflorum Seedate, Cymbopogon Schoenanthus Extract, Citrus Reticulata Fruit, Moringa Oleifera Callus Extract, Earthworm Powder, Caryocar Brasiliense Fruit Oil, Pentaclethra Macroloba Seed Oil, Pycnanthus Angolensis Nut Oil, Corallina Officinalis Powder, Trifolium Pratense Flower Powder, Poria Cocos Powder, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Powder, Plukenetia Volubilis Seed Oil, Shorea Robusta Seed Butter, Coffea Arabica Husk Extract, Olea Europaea Fruit Oil, Nigella Sativa Seed Oil, Thymus Vulgaris Leaf, Origanum Vulgare Leaf, Commiphora Myrrha Resin, Daucus Carota Sativa Callus Lysate, Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract, Leptospermum Scoparium Branch/Leaf Oil, Glycyrrhiza Uralensis Extract, Daucus Carota Sativa Root, Curcuma Longa Root Extract, Chamomilla Recutita (Matricaria) Flower Juice, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Centella Asiatica Extract, Artemisia Argyi Leaf Oil, Lactobacillus/Ilex Paraguariensis Leaf Ferment Filtrate, Ganoderma Lucidum Extract, Hericium Erinaceus Extract, Equisetum Arvense Powder, Paullinia Cupana Seed Powder, Citrus Nobilis, Olibanum, Daucus Carota Sativa Seed Oil, Citrus Aurantium Bergamia Peel Oil, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root, Rubus Idaeus Fruit, Chamomilla Recutita Extract, Vitis Rotundifolia Callus Extract, Propolis Cera, Curcumin, Artemisia Vulgaris Oil, Rhodiola Rosea Callus, Ilex Guayusa Leaf Extract, Melissa Officinalis Callus Lysate, Vanilla Planifolia Fruit Extract, CI 75810, Jasminum Grandiflorum Flower Extract, Honey, Achillea Millefolium Oil, Agastache Mexicana Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract, Illicium Verum Leaf Oil, Mentha Piperita Leaf, Eucalyptus Globulus Oil, Satureja Montana Oil, Melaleuca Quinquenervia Oil, Eucalyptus Maculata Extract, Melaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Oil, Salvia Officinalis Oil, Cinnamomum Cassia Oil, Camphor, Callitris Intratropica Wood Oil, Rosa Damascena Callus, Algae, Plumeria Rubra Flower Extract, Shilajit Extract, Citrus Aurantium Amara Peel, Polianthes Tuberosa Polysaccharide, Angelica Archangelica Extract, Inula Helenium Extract, Rose Flower Oil, Magnolia Champaca Flower Oil, Citrus Limon Peel, Elettaria Cardamomum Seed Oil, Santalum Album, Pogostemon Cablin Leaf/Stem Extract, Cananga Odorata Flower Cera, Vetiveria Zizanoides Root Water
Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice
Oryza Sativa
Zea Mays Silk Extract
Glycerin
Jasminum Officinale Flower Extract
Vitis Vinifera Seed Oil
Prunus Armeniaca Kernel Oil
Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Water
Cetearyl Alcohol
Hydrolyzed Rice Protein
Glyceryl Stearate
Hydrolyzed Plukenetia Volubilis Seed Extract
Alteromonas Ferment Filtrate
Aphanizomenon Flos-Aquae Extract
Sodium Acrylates Copolymer
Lecithin
Hydroxyacetophenone
Tocopheryl Acetate
Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Peel Oil
1,2-Hexanediol
Caprylyl Glycol
Hydrogenated Starch Hydrolysate
Butylene Glycol
Xanthan Gum
Ocimum Basilicum Oil
Guaiazulene
Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate
Iron Oxides
Bambusa Vulgaris Extract
Caramel
Euterpe Oleracea Fruit Extract
Malpighia Glabra Fruit Extract
Emblica Officinalis Fruit
Adansonia Digitata Seed Oil
Myrciaria Dubia Fruit Extract
Daucus Carota Sativa Root Extract
Milk
Lycium Barbarum Fruit Extract
Tapioca Starch
Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Oryza Sativa, Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract, Zea Mays Silk Extract, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Glycerin, Jasminum Officinale Flower Extract, Vitis Vinifera Seed Oil, Prunus Armeniaca Kernel Oil, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Water, Cetearyl Alcohol, Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Glyceryl Stearate, Hydrolyzed Plukenetia Volubilis Seed Extract, Alteromonas Ferment Filtrate, Aphanizomenon Flos-Aquae Extract, Sodium Acrylates Copolymer, Lecithin, Hydroxyacetophenone, Tocopheryl Acetate, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Peel Oil, 1,2-Hexanediol, Caprylyl Glycol, Hydrogenated Starch Hydrolysate, Butylene Glycol, Xanthan Gum, Ocimum Basilicum Oil, Guaiazulene, Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate, Iron Oxides, Bambusa Vulgaris Extract, Caramel, Euterpe Oleracea Fruit Extract, Citrus Limon Peel, Malpighia Glabra Fruit Extract, Emblica Officinalis Fruit, Adansonia Digitata Seed Oil, Myrciaria Dubia Fruit Extract, Daucus Carota Sativa Root Extract, Cocos Nucifera Oil, Milk, Lycium Barbarum Fruit Extract, Tapioca Starch
Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
This ingredient is also known as shea butter. It is a plant-derived extract from the nuts of the Africa shea tree and one of the most well-studied emollients.
Because it has a high concentration of fatty acids (primarily oleic, stearic, and linoleic) it is able to form a protective barrier on the skin's surface. This helps seal in moisture and prevents transepidermal water loss (TEWL).
In vitro research found an increase in skin hydration by 58% and a decrease in TEWL by 37.8% after 24 hours of applying this ingredient (pretty impressive for a single ingredient!).
Besides hydration, shea butter also contains triterpenes that have anti-inflammatory potential. In particule, lupeol cinnamate has shown the highest anti-inflammatory activity in vivo.
Shea butter also contains vitamins A and E which may contribute to antioxidant activity.
While Shea Butter has an SPF rating of about 3-4, it is not a sunscreen replacement.
This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe because its fatty acids fall within the C11-C24 range that the Malassezia yeast can metabolize.
Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract comes from the marigold flower and has been used on skin for centuries for its calming effect.
In the lab, its active compounds appear to calm inflammation and support the early "healing" phase of minor wounds.
This is why Europe's medicines regulator has approved calendula extracts as a traditional remedy for minor skin inflammation and healing small wounds.
The stronger human evidence is around would/ulcer care rather than everyday cosmetic claims; a review that pulled together 14 studies found that calendula helped calm the early, inflamed stage of a wound and helped new skin tissue form faster.
Two studies also showed it shrank leg ulcers (the kind caused by poor circulation). Results were mixed for burns and for the skin irritation people get from radiation treatment, so it's not a sure thing there.
In cosmetics, it's mostly a skin conditioning and soothing agent.
The Cosmetic Ingredient Review panel concluded that calendula-derived ingredients are safe as used and that the ingredients are not irritating, sensitizing, or photosensitizing in clinical tests (though they may be mild eye irritants).
Typical use levels are quite low; industry data reported it used at under 0.5% (one supplier noted a 10-25% extract blend used at 1-10% in the finished product). Historical use goes up to 10%.
The only thing to keep in mind is if you have daisy/ragweed allergies. Calendula is in the same family and one patch-test study found 2% of dermatitis patients reacted to marigold. Be sure to patch test if you have sensitive or allergy-prone skin.
Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract (tea extract) is one of the most well-researched plant extracts in skincare with an impressive resume.
Black tea, green tea, and oolong tea are all harvested from the Camellia Sinensis plant.
Studies show green tea extract and its catechins (like epigallocatechin gallate (EGCG)) help your skin cells product energy more efficiently and reducing the number of free-radicals that can damage your skin from the inside.
In lab-grown skin models, this translated to younger, healthier, and stronger skin.
There's also good sun protection data; researchers saw less DNA damage and redness on human skin when green tea was applied before UVB exposure. And the more they applied, the better the protection.
Needless to say, this ingredient shouldn't replace your sunscreen. But it is a great supportive ingredient that you can already find in many sunscreens and antioxidant serums.
A 2009 study found a 2% green tea lotion was effective for mild-to-moderate acne thanks to its anti-inflammatory and mild antimicrobial activity.
The quality of the extract matters a lot here:
Good extracts contain 50-90% catechins while lower quality ones are mostly there for marketing. We recommend reaching out to the brand if you have questions about the quality or source of their ingredients.
Human Repeated Insult Patch Testing showed no irritation or sensitization at use concentrations (0.86% in leave-on products and up to 30% as leaf water).
We don't have a description for Citrus Limon Peel yet.
This ingredient is also known as coconut oil. It is a plant-derived ingredient with skin conditioning properties.
The fatty acid profile of coconut oil is mostly lauric acid (~54%), followed by capric, caprylic, palmitic, and myristic acids. This profile allows it to penetrate easily into skin, moisturize, and improve dry skin.
A double-blind study confirmed that extra virgin coconut oil is as effective as mineral oil for treating very dry skin. Another study found it outperformed mineral oil for mild to moderate atopic dermatitis in children.
Another study from 2018 found that virgin coconut oil can soothe inflammation and boost key skin barrier proteins. Just know this evidence is still only from lab settings and not human trials.
It has also been shown to reduce Staphylococcus aureus, a bacteria that commonly overgrows in people with eczema.
Clinical testing shows very minimal skin irritation and no evidence of sensitization or phototoxicity.
Coconut oil gets flagged as a "fragrance" because it has a natural mild scent (not because it's a synthetic perfume). The European Cosmetic ingredient database also lists "perfuming" as a function of this ingredient.
Just so you know, the term "fragrance" is completely unregulated. Some brands still use botanical extracts or essential oils in their "fragrance-free" formulas, but regulatory databases technically classify these under "fragrance".
Coconut oil has a tiny and useless bit of natural SPF. Early lab studies clocked it around SPF 7-8 but a more recent study found the real number closer to SPF 1.2. It also offers no meaningful UVA protection (SPF only overs UVB rays).
The comedogenic rating of 4/5 means it has a high potential to clog pores; but it's worth noting that comedogenicity is highly individual and ratings cannot predict how an overall formula will behave on skin.
Since lauric acid is the dominant fatty acid, this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe. The Malassezia yeast feeds on fatty acids with carbon chain lengths between 11-24, and lauric acid falls within these lengths (C12).