Herbivore Bakuchiol Retinol Alternative Smoothing Serum Versus Medik8 Bakuchiol Peptides

Herbivore Bakuchiol Retinol Alternative Smoothing Serum Versus Medik8 Bakuchiol Peptides

This smoothing serum is formulated around Bakuchiol to refine skin texture and soften the look of wrinkles.

This anti-aging serum is formulated around Bakuchiol and Centella Asiatica Leaf Extract to soften the look of wrinkles and calm redness.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Propanediol

Glycerin

Piroctone Olamine

Dicaprylyl Carbonate

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Bakuchiol

Pisum Sativum Extract

Morus Alba Bark Extract

Lentinus Edodes Extract

Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract

Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Fruit Extract

Polygonum Multiflorum Root Extract

Haematococcus Pluvialis Extract

Lavandula Angustifolia Oil

Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate

1,2-Hexanediol

Caprylyl Glycol

Sodium Gluconate

Ethylhexylglycerin

Sodium Acrylates Copolymer

Sorbitan Olivate

Coco-Caprylate/Caprate

Caprylhydroxamic Acid

Hydroxyacetophenone

Lecithin

Coco-Caprylate

Tribehenin

Tetrasodium Iminodisuccinate

Citric Acid

Xanthan Gum

Water, Propanediol, Glycerin, Piroctone Olamine, Dicaprylyl Carbonate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Bakuchiol, Pisum Sativum Extract, Morus Alba Bark Extract, Lentinus Edodes Extract, Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Fruit Extract, Polygonum Multiflorum Root Extract, Haematococcus Pluvialis Extract, Lavandula Angustifolia Oil, Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate, 1,2-Hexanediol, Caprylyl Glycol, Sodium Gluconate, Ethylhexylglycerin, Sodium Acrylates Copolymer, Sorbitan Olivate, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Caprylhydroxamic Acid, Hydroxyacetophenone, Lecithin, Coco-Caprylate, Tribehenin, Tetrasodium Iminodisuccinate, Citric Acid, Xanthan Gum

Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil

Krameria Triandra Root Extract

Plukenetia Volubilis Seed Oil

Moringa Oleifera Seed Oil

Tocopherol

Centella Asiatica Leaf Extract

Aloe Barbadensis Flower Extract

Corallina Officinalis Extract

Coccinia Indica Fruit Extract

Solanum Melongena Fruit Extract

Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil

Curcuma Longa Root Extract

Ocimum Basilicum Flower/Leaf Extract

Ocimum Sanctum Leaf Extract

Eclipta Prostrata Extract

Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract

Undecylenoyl Phenylalanine

Olea Europaea Fruit Oil

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Bakuchiol, Krameria Triandra Root Extract, Plukenetia Volubilis Seed Oil, Moringa Oleifera Seed Oil, Tocopherol, Centella Asiatica Leaf Extract, Aloe Barbadensis Flower Extract, Corallina Officinalis Extract, Coccinia Indica Fruit Extract, Solanum Melongena Fruit Extract, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Curcuma Longa Root Extract, Ocimum Basilicum Flower/Leaf Extract, Ocimum Sanctum Leaf Extract, Eclipta Prostrata Extract, Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract, Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract, Undecylenoyl Phenylalanine, Olea Europaea Fruit Oil

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Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Bakuchiol is a plant-derived antioxidant from the seeds of the Psoralea corylifolia plant. It has antimicrobial, emollient, skin conditioning, and antioxidant properties.

You'll likely see it called a "retinol replacement" but the two are technically not related. This is because bakuchiol is able to flip many of the same switches in your skin cells to tell them to:

1) produce more collagen (type I, III, and IV) 2) activate the same genes retinoids do

Unlike retinoids, this ingredient will not increase photosensitivity and is safe to use during pregnancy (but please still check in with your doctor!).

The flagship clinical trial from Dhaliwal et al. 2019 found 0.5% bakuchiol (twice daily) and 0.5% retinol (once daily) reduced wrinkles and hyperpigmentation equally, but bakuchiol had significantly less irritation.

Systematic reviews also back this up:

Bakuchiol is comparable to retinol for photoaging but with better tolerability. It also has mild antibacterial properties against Cutibacterium acnes and antifungal activity in vitro against Candida and dermatophytes.

The reason bakuchiol works well is due to its structure; it is a meroterpene phenol, or a hybrid molecule. The phenol half acts as an antioxidant while the terpene half is fat-loving. This helps the molecule slip through the skin barrier.

This ingredient is usually used between 0.5-2%. Only one case of contact dermatitis has ever been reported for this ingredient.

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.

Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.

In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.

While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.

Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.

This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.

This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.

Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract is from the Neem tree. Neem trees originate from India.

Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract contains antioxidants. Antioxidants help fight free-radicals. Free-radicals are molecules that may damage your skin cells, such as pollution.

The flowers of this tree are lilac colored.

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