Iconix Glow Recipe Versus Lancer Skincare Legacy Youth Treatment

Iconix Glow Recipe Versus Lancer Skincare Legacy Youth Treatment

This brightening moisturizer is formulated around Niacinamide and Bakuchiol to brighten dull-looking skin and soften the look of wrinkles.

This anti-aging moisturizer is formulated around Rice Ferment Filtrate and Sh-Oligopeptide-1 to soften the look of wrinkles.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Niacinamide

Dimethyl Isosorbide

Squalane

Cetyl Alcohol

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

C12-16 Alcohols

Ethoxydiglycol

Sodium Hyaluronate

Propanediol

Isopentyldiol

Isopropyl Palmitate

Butylene Glycol

Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil

Betaine

Bakuchiol

Cucumis Sativus Fruit Extract

Glycerin

Glyceryl Stearate Se

Phenoxyethanol

Palmitic Acid

Hydrogenated Lecithin

Lecithin

Bacillus

Ethylhexylglycerin

Raphanus Sativus Sprout Extract

Magnesium Aspartate

Zinc Gluconate

Maltodextrin

Cryptomeria Japonica Bud Extract

1,2-Hexanediol

Caprylyl Glycol

Citric Acid

Sh-Oligopeptide-1

Sh-Oligopeptide-2

Sh-Polypeptide-1

Sh-Polypeptide-11

Sh-Polypeptide-9

Acetyl Glutamine

Copper Gluconate

Water, Niacinamide, Dimethyl Isosorbide, Squalane, Cetyl Alcohol, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, C12-16 Alcohols, Ethoxydiglycol, Sodium Hyaluronate, Propanediol, Isopentyldiol, Isopropyl Palmitate, Butylene Glycol, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Betaine, Bakuchiol, Cucumis Sativus Fruit Extract, Glycerin, Glyceryl Stearate Se, Phenoxyethanol, Palmitic Acid, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Lecithin, Bacillus, Ethylhexylglycerin, Raphanus Sativus Sprout Extract, Magnesium Aspartate, Zinc Gluconate, Maltodextrin, Cryptomeria Japonica Bud Extract, 1,2-Hexanediol, Caprylyl Glycol, Citric Acid, Sh-Oligopeptide-1, Sh-Oligopeptide-2, Sh-Polypeptide-1, Sh-Polypeptide-11, Sh-Polypeptide-9, Acetyl Glutamine, Copper Gluconate

Bis-Stearyl Dimethicone

Tridecyl Trimellitate

Jojoba Oil/Macadamia Seed Oil Esters

Isosorbide Dicaprylate

Stearyl Alcohol

Cyclopentasiloxane

Glyceryl Stearate

PEG-75 Stearate

Cyclohexasiloxane

Behenyl Alcohol

Cetyl Esters

Dimethicone

Caesalpinia Spinosa Fruit Extract

Ananas Sativus Fruit Extract

Glycine Soja Extract

Wasabia Japonica Leaf Extract

Rice Ferment Filtrate

Copper Palmitoyl Heptapeptide-14

Heptapeptide-15 Palmitate

Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid

Kappaphycus Alvarezii Extract

Tremella Fuciformis Sporocarp Extract

Phytosteryl Macadamiate

Laminaria Digitata Extract

Crocus Sativus Flower Extract

Swertia Chirata Extract

Undaria Pinnatifida Extract

Phytosterols

Tocopheryl Acetate

Tocopherol

Sodium Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer

Pentylene Glycol

Ceteth-20

Steareth-20

Cyclodextrin

Polyisobutene

Squalene

Mica

Xanthan Gum

Polymethyl Methacrylate

Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate

Caprylyl/Capryl Glucoside

Sorbitan Oleate

Polyglutamic Acid

Lactic Acid/Glycolic Acid Copolymer

Polyvinyl Alcohol

Sodium Benzoate

Potassium Sorbate

CI 77891

Water, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Bis-Stearyl Dimethicone, Tridecyl Trimellitate, Jojoba Oil/Macadamia Seed Oil Esters, Isosorbide Dicaprylate, Stearyl Alcohol, Cetyl Alcohol, Cyclopentasiloxane, Glyceryl Stearate, Isopropyl Palmitate, Glycerin, PEG-75 Stearate, Propanediol, Cyclohexasiloxane, Butylene Glycol, Behenyl Alcohol, Cetyl Esters, Dimethicone, Caesalpinia Spinosa Fruit Extract, Ananas Sativus Fruit Extract, Glycine Soja Extract, Wasabia Japonica Leaf Extract, Rice Ferment Filtrate, Acetyl Glutamine, Bacillus, Copper Palmitoyl Heptapeptide-14, Heptapeptide-15 Palmitate, Sh-Oligopeptide-1, Sh-Oligopeptide-2, Sh-Polypeptide-1, Sh-Polypeptide-11, Sh-Polypeptide-9, Sodium Hyaluronate, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Kappaphycus Alvarezii Extract, Tremella Fuciformis Sporocarp Extract, Phytosteryl Macadamiate, Laminaria Digitata Extract, Crocus Sativus Flower Extract, Swertia Chirata Extract, Undaria Pinnatifida Extract, Phytosterols, Tocopheryl Acetate, Tocopherol, Sodium Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Pentylene Glycol, Lecithin, Betaine, Ceteth-20, Steareth-20, Cyclodextrin, Polyisobutene, Squalene, Caprylyl Glycol, Bakuchiol, Mica, Xanthan Gum, Polymethyl Methacrylate, Ethylhexylglycerin, Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate, Citric Acid, Caprylyl/Capryl Glucoside, Sorbitan Oleate, Polyglutamic Acid, Lactic Acid/Glycolic Acid Copolymer, Polyvinyl Alcohol, Sodium Benzoate, Phenoxyethanol, Potassium Sorbate, 1,2-Hexanediol, CI 77891

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.

It is a:

Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin

Emollient, helping to soften skin

Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas

Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives

We don't have a description for Acetyl Glutamine yet.

We don't have a description for Bacillus yet.

Bakuchiol is a plant-derived antioxidant from the seeds of the Psoralea corylifolia plant. It has antimicrobial, emollient, skin conditioning, and antioxidant properties.

You'll likely see it called a "retinol replacement" but the two are technically not related. This is because bakuchiol is able to flip many of the same switches in your skin cells to tell them to:

1) produce more collagen (type I, III, and IV) 2) activate the same genes retinoids do

Unlike retinoids, this ingredient will not increase photosensitivity and is safe to use during pregnancy (but please still check in with your doctor!).

The flagship clinical trial from Dhaliwal et al. 2019 found 0.5% bakuchiol (twice daily) and 0.5% retinol (once daily) reduced wrinkles and hyperpigmentation equally, but bakuchiol had significantly less irritation.

Systematic reviews also back this up:

Bakuchiol is comparable to retinol for photoaging but with better tolerability. It also has mild antibacterial properties against Cutibacterium acnes and antifungal activity in vitro against Candida and dermatophytes.

The reason bakuchiol works well is due to its structure; it is a meroterpene phenol, or a hybrid molecule. The phenol half acts as an antioxidant while the terpene half is fat-loving. This helps the molecule slip through the skin barrier.

This ingredient is usually used between 0.5-2%. Only one case of contact dermatitis has ever been reported for this ingredient.

Betaine is a humectant. Like hyaluronic acid, it helps attract and retain moisture in the skin. It’s known for being gentle and for helping the skin maintain balanced hydration.

Betaine is mainly used to improve hydration and support calmer skin. It helps skin cells regulate water balance because it functions as an osmolyte.

Some studies suggest betaine may support making skin tone more even.

Fun fact: Betaine naturally exists in the skin and the body. In cosmetic products, it can be either plant-derived (most commonly from sugar beets) or synthetically produced for consistency and stability.

Betaine is also known as trimethylglycine.

Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:

Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.

Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.

Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.

In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.

While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.

Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.

This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.

This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.

Caprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.

Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.

Because it is not a free-fatty acid, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).

Cetyl Alcohol is a fatty alcohol. Fatty Alcohols are most often used as an emollient or to thicken a product.

Its main roles are:

Though it has "alcohol" in the name, it is not related to denatured alcohol or ethyl alcohol.

The FDA allows products labeled "alcohol-free" to have fatty alcohols.

This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe. It is a primary fatty alcohol with a chain length above 12 carbons. A study from 2019 show Malassezia can feed on fatty alcohols in this range, so it may trigger fungal acne in those prone to it.

Citric Acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) naturally found in citrus fruits like oranges, lemons, and limes.

Like other AHAs, citric acid can exfoliate skin by breaking down the bonds that hold dead skin cells together. This helps reveal smoother and brighter skin underneath.

However, this exfoliating effect only happens at high concentrations (20%) which can be hard to find in cosmetic products.

Due to this, citric acid is usually included in small amounts as a pH adjuster. This helps keep products slightly more acidic and compatible with skin's natural pH.

In skincare formulas, citric acid can:

While it can provide some skin benefits, research shows lactic acid and glycolic acid are generally more effective and less irritating exfoliants.

Most citric acid used in skincare today is made by fermenting sugars (usually from molasses). This synthetic version is identical to the natural citrus form but easier to stabilize and use in formulations.

Rosacea skin has a lower threshold for acids generally, with 62.5% of rosacea subjects in one study reacting to lactic acid in a sting test. This is why we mark citric acid as a potential rosacea trigger.

However, this ingredient shows up as a pH adjuster or chelator at roughly 0.1-1% in many products. These low levels are unlikely to be an issue for rosacea skin and becomes a potential trigger at exfoliating concentrations (20%). Because everybody's skin is unique, we recommend a patch test if you are unsure.

Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:

The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.

Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Isopropyl Palmitate is a lightweight emollient made by combining isopropyl alcohol and palmitic acid.

It is an emollient that leaves skin feeling smooth and silky without leaving a greasy feel.

Typical usage concentrations range from 1-5%.

Human testing shows it's non-irritating and non-sensitizing, and the EU Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (SCCS) has cleared it at very high levels (79% in leave-on products).

The one thing worth knowing about its comedogenic score of 3-4 is to keep it in perspective: these ratings come from old rabbit-ear tests using 100% of pure ingredient and doesn't reflect how it behaves at low levels in a finished product.

Because it is an ester of palmitic acid (C16), it falls into the range that the Malassezia yeast can feed on and is considered not fungal acne safe.

Lecithin is a term for a group of substances found in the cell membranes of plants, animals, and humans. They are made up of phospholipids.

Thanks to its amphiphilic structure (water-loving head and oil-loving tail), it is a true multitasker:

It plays well with most ingredients and is typically used at 0.1-1%. However, concentrations up to 50% have been reported in moisturizers.

Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).

It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.

On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.

Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).

You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.

Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.

Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.

Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.

Propanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.

It’s often used to:

Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.

sh-Oligopeptide-1 is a peptide found naturally in our bodies. Peptides are the building blocks for collagen and elastin in our skin.

In cosmetics, this ingredient is bioengineered to be identical to a human gene that codes for epidermal growth factor (EGF). EGF are signal molecules that simulate cell growth and healing.

Studies find EGF help with:

In South Korea and China, EGF is considered a controversial ingredient. The South Korean Ministry of Food and Drug Safety has cracked down on companies with products including EGF due to false advertisement claims.

According to Dr. Zoe Draelos, growth factors have some drawbacks:

There is also controversy surrounding growth factors. The controversy is due to their mitogenic activity, or their ability to increase the number of cells. It is best to avoid using growth factors if you have psoriasis or are at risk of skin cancer. However, it should be noted EGF are not mutagenic - meaning they will not cause cancer.

This peptide has similar properties to Sh-Oligopeptide-1.

There is also controversy surrounding EGF. The controversy is due to their mitogenic activity, or their ability to increase the number of cells. It is best to avoid using growth factors if you have psoriasis or are at risk of skin cancer. However, it should be noted EGF are not mutagenic - meaning they will not cause cancer.

Sh-Polypeptide-1 is a signal peptide that tells our cells to create more fibroblast cells. Fibroblasts maintain skin structure and plays a role in wound healing.

It is important to note this ingredient is mitogenic and not mutagenic. Meaning it will stimulate cell multiplication, and will not cause cancer.

Sh-Polypeptide-11 is a signal protein that tells our skin to create more fibroblast cells. Fibroblasts maintain skin structure and plays a role in wound healing.

Sh-Polypeptide-9 is a signal peptide that tells our body to create more blood vessels.

It is important to note, this ingredient is mitogenic and not mutagenic. Meaning it will stimulate cell multiplication, and will not cause cancer.

Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.

In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.

Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:

Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.

Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.

You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

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