Skin science article
Kate Somerville Liquid ExfoliKate® Triple Acid Resurfacing Treatment Versus Lancer Skincare Caviar Acid Lime Peel
Kate Somerville Liquid ExfoliKate® Triple Acid Resurfacing Treatment Versus Lancer Skincare Caviar Acid Lime Peel This smoothing treatment is formulated around Lactic Acid and Glycolic Acid to refine skin texture and brighten dull-looking skin. This wash off m
Kate Somerville Liquid ExfoliKate® Triple Acid Resurfacing Treatment Versus Lancer Skincare Caviar Acid Lime Peel
This smoothing treatment is formulated around Lactic Acid and Glycolic Acid to refine skin texture and brighten dull-looking skin.
This wash off mask is formulated around Glycolic Acid to exfoliate and smooth skin.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Pelargonium Graveolens Flower/Leaf/Stem Water
Lactic Acid
Sodium Hydroxide
Glycolic Acid
Propanediol
Phytic Acid
Glycerin
Papain
Boswellia Serrata Extract
Mel Extract
Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
Aspalathus Linearis Extract
Bromelain
Microcitrus Australasica Fruit Extract
Tetrapeptide-14
Lactobacillus/Pumpkin Fruit Ferment Filtrate
Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate
1,2-Hexanediol
Butylene Glycol
Citric Acid
Malic Acid
Tartaric Acid
Caprylhydroxamic Acid
Phenoxyethanol
Sodium Benzoate
Maltodextrin
Citronellol
Geraniol
Linalool
Water, Pelargonium Graveolens Flower/Leaf/Stem Water, Lactic Acid, Sodium Hydroxide, Glycolic Acid, Propanediol, Phytic Acid, Glycerin, Papain, Boswellia Serrata Extract, Mel Extract, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Aspalathus Linearis Extract, Bromelain, Microcitrus Australasica Fruit Extract, Tetrapeptide-14, Lactobacillus/Pumpkin Fruit Ferment Filtrate, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, 1,2-Hexanediol, Butylene Glycol, Citric Acid, Malic Acid, Tartaric Acid, Caprylhydroxamic Acid, Phenoxyethanol, Sodium Benzoate, Maltodextrin, Citronellol, Geraniol, Linalool
Glyceryl Stearate
PEG-100 Stearate
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Galactoarabinan
Dimethyl Isosorbide
Ethoxydiglycol
Neopentyl Glycol Diethylhexanoate
Stearyl Alcohol
Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6
Oryza Sativa Bran Extract
Citrus Paradisi Peel Oil
Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Oil
Sodium Ascorbate
Retinol
Helianthus Annuus Seed Extract
Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract
Citrus Aurantifolia Oil
Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Peel Oil
Mentha Piperita Oil
Eucalyptus Globulus Leaf Oil
Allantoin
Tocopherol
Dimethicone
Polymethylsilsesquioxane
Vanillyl Butyl Ether
Ethylhexylglycerin
Hdi/Trimethylol Hexyllactone Crosspolymer
Xanthan Gum
Disodium EDTA
Benzyl Alcohol
Menthoxypropanediol
Limonene
Citral
Water, Glycolic Acid, Phytic Acid, Glyceryl Stearate, PEG-100 Stearate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Galactoarabinan, Dimethyl Isosorbide, Ethoxydiglycol, Neopentyl Glycol Diethylhexanoate, Sodium Hydroxide, Stearyl Alcohol, Propanediol, Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6, Glycerin, Maltodextrin, Oryza Sativa Bran Extract, Citrus Paradisi Peel Oil, Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Oil, Sodium Ascorbate, Retinol, Helianthus Annuus Seed Extract, Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract, Microcitrus Australasica Fruit Extract, Citrus Aurantifolia Oil, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Peel Oil, Mentha Piperita Oil, Eucalyptus Globulus Leaf Oil, Allantoin, Bromelain, Papain, Tocopherol, Dimethicone, Polymethylsilsesquioxane, Vanillyl Butyl Ether, Ethylhexylglycerin, Hdi/Trimethylol Hexyllactone Crosspolymer, Xanthan Gum, Disodium EDTA, Benzyl Alcohol, Menthoxypropanediol, Limonene, Linalool, Citral
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Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Bromelain is a proteolytic enzyme derived from pineapple stem. It gently exfoliates by by dissolving the "glue" holding dead skin cells to your skin's surface.
By faciliating the removal of dead skin cells from the outermost layer of skin, it helps with enhancing skin firmness, hydration, and texture.
Besides exfoliation, it also has anti-inflammatory properties by blocking the inflammation signaling pathways.
It is considered gentler than traditional AHAs or physical scrubs and is a great option for sensitive skin. At this time, most of the clinical trial data on enzyme exfoliants is still limited and further in vivo research is needed.
Typical concentrations for this ingredient range between 0.1-5%.
Bromelain's use in cosmetic formulations has been limited by its sensitivity to pH and temperature (it maintains best stability at pH 5.0). This means how effective is it in a finished product can vary depending on how well the formula is designed.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Glycolic Acid is arguably the most famous alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) with tons of research backing its benefits.
It is found naturally in sugar cane but the form used in skincare is usually synthetic for purity and stability.
Glycolic acid removes the top layer of dead skin cells to allow newer and fresher ones to emerge.
AHAs work by breaking down the structural “glue” that holds old skin cells in place. When that buildup is gone, your skin can renew itself more efficiently.
Research also shows glycolic acid stimulates collagen production, helping to firm and thicken the skin over time. This is one of its biggest advantages over other AHAs.
Overall, glycolic acid helps with:
Fun fact: Glycolic acid boosts skin hydration by helping it produce molecules that increase hyaluronic acid naturally.
To work best, glycolic acid products should have a pH between 3-4 (that’s where exfoliation is most effective but still gentle on skin).
The pH and concentration of a product are key to its effectiveness:
It is normal to feel a slight stinging sensation when using glycolic acid. This usually fades as your skin adjusts.
Because glycolic acid has the smallest molecular size in the AHA family, it can penetrate deeper, which enhances its effectiveness but also makes it more likely to irritate sensitive skin.
If your skin is very sensitive or prone to rosacea, glycolic acid may be too strong; in that case, try milder options like lactic acid or a PHA instead.
Recent studies suggest glycolic acid might even help protect against UV damage. But don’t skip sunscreen! Freshly exfoliated skin is more sensitive to the sun.
Glycolic acid is a skincare superstar. It smooths, brightens, hydrates, and firms the skin. Unless you’re highly sensitive, it’s well worth adding to your routine.
Read more about some other popular AHA's here:
Linalool is a fragrance and helps add scent to products. It's derived from common plants such as cinnamon, mint, citrus, and lavender.
Like Limonene, this ingredient oxidizes when exposed to air. Oxidized linalool can cause allergies and skin sensitivity.
This ingredient has a scent that is floral, spicy tropical, and citrus-like.
Maltodextrin is a plant-derived carbohydrate made by breaking down starch (usually from corn, potato, or rice). In cosmetic formulas, it's a multitasking absorbent, emulsion stabilizer, and skin conditioner.
This ingredient is mostly used to stabilize emulsions and improve the powdery, non-greasy feel of products (like dry shampoos).
Safety-wise, this ingredient is pretty solid; it's even recognized as a food additive. Both animal and clinical studies found no adverse effects at the levels used in cosmetics.
Industry data shows this ingredient is used up to 45.7% in spray products and up to 33% in powder products.
We don't have a description for Microcitrus Australasica Fruit Extract yet.
Papain is a proteolytic enzyme extracted from unripe papaya fruit. It is a gentle exfoliator that helps remove the dead skin cells from your outermost layer of skin.
Basically, papain works by dissolving the "glue" holding dead skin cells to your skin's surface. This also promotes cell turnover and smooths texture.
Unlike other exfoliants, papain can work without causing significant irritation.
Beyond exfoliation, its proteolytic action also helps soothe irritated skin and supports the healing of minor wounds.
A 2024 in vivo/in vitro study confirmed its potential to suppress skin inflammation and improve transepidermal water loss (TEWL) in atopic dermatitis models.
Just one thing worth noting: there are reports of allergic responses in individuals with a papaya or latex sensitivity. Be sure to patch test if you're in this camp.
Phytic Acid is a gentle AHA and antioxidant. AHAs are chemical exfoliants that help remove dead skin cells. Phytic Acid has a slight and mild exfoliating effect.
The chemical makeup makes it classified as an AHA, much like lactic acid.
In some cases, it is a chelating agent. Chelating agents help prevent metals from binding to water, helping to stabilize the ingredients in a product.
An interesting fact about phytic acid is that it is considered an antinutrient. People do not have the enzyme needed to properly breakdown and digest phytic acid. When ingested, phytic acid binds to minerals and prevents them from being absorbed.
Propanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.
It’s often used to:
Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.
Sodium Hydroxide is also known as lye or caustic soda. It is used to adjust the pH of products; many ingredients require a specific pH to be effective.
In small amounts, sodium hydroxide is considered safe to use. However, large amounts may cause chemical burns due to its high alkaline.
Your skin has a natural pH and acid mantle. This acid mantle helps prevent harmful bacteria from breaking through. The acid mantle also helps keep your skin hydrated.
"Alkaline" refers to a high pH level. A low pH level would be considered acidic.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!