Peptide Skincare & BeautySkin science and ingredient guides

Skin science article

IMAGE skincare Ormedic Sheer Pink Lip Enhancement Complex Versus Paula's Choice Boost Hyaluronic Acid + Peptide Lip Booster

IMAGE skincare Ormedic Sheer Pink Lip Enhancement Complex Versus Paula's Choice Boost Hyaluronic Acid + Peptide Lip Booster This anti-aging lip moisturizer is formulated around Persea Gratissima Oil and Atelocollagen to soften the look of wrinkles and hydrate

IMAGE skincare Ormedic Sheer Pink Lip Enhancement Complex Versus Paula's Choice Boost Hyaluronic Acid + Peptide Lip Booster

This anti-aging lip moisturizer is formulated around Persea Gratissima Oil and Atelocollagen to soften the look of wrinkles and hydrate lips.

This anti-aging lip moisturizer is formulated around Sodium Hyaluronate and Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 to soften the look of wrinkles and hydrate lips.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Hydrogenated Polyisobutene

Ethylene/Propylene/Styrene Copolymer

Persea Gratissima Oil

Phenyl Trimethicone

Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate

Ethylhexyl Palmitate

PPG-12/Smdi Copolymer

Tribehenin

Butylene/Ethylene/Styrene Copolymer

Diisopropyl Dimer Dilinoleate

Aroma

Tocopheryl Acetate

Mica

Limonene

CI 77891

Silica Dimethyl Silylate

Sorbitan Isostearate

Butylene Glycol

Pentylene Glycol

Sodium Chondroitin Sulfate

Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate

Atelocollagen

Caesalpinia Sappan Bark Extract

Tocopherol

Linalool

Citral

Tin Oxide

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1

Oryzanol

Ubiquinone

Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, Ethylene/Propylene/Styrene Copolymer, Persea Gratissima Oil, Phenyl Trimethicone, Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, PPG-12/Smdi Copolymer, Tribehenin, Butylene/Ethylene/Styrene Copolymer, Diisopropyl Dimer Dilinoleate, Aroma, Tocopheryl Acetate, Mica, Limonene, CI 77891, Silica Dimethyl Silylate, Sorbitan Isostearate, Butylene Glycol, Pentylene Glycol, Sodium Chondroitin Sulfate, Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate, Atelocollagen, Caesalpinia Sappan Bark Extract, Tocopherol, Linalool, Citral, Tin Oxide, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Oryzanol, Ubiquinone

Diisostearyl Malate

Hydrogenated Castor Oil/Sebacic Acid Copolymer

Theobroma Cacao Seed Butter

Dipentaerythrityl Tetrabehenate/Polyhydroxystearate

Polyamide-8

Polyglyceryl-3 Beeswax

Dimer Dilinoleyl Dimer Dilinoleate

Triisostearin

Squalane

Butyrospermum Parkii Butter Unsaponifiables

Cetearyl Ethylhexanoate

Dipalmitoyl Hydroxyproline

Water

Arginine/Lysine Polypeptide

Palmitic Acid

Hydroxystearic Acid

Trihydroxystearin

Glycine Soja Oil

Portulaca Pilosa Extract

Sodium Hyaluronate

Lactic Acid

Sucrose Cocoate

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38

Glucomannan

Sorbic Acid

Diisostearyl Malate, Hydrogenated Castor Oil/Sebacic Acid Copolymer, Theobroma Cacao Seed Butter, Dipentaerythrityl Tetrabehenate/Polyhydroxystearate, Polyamide-8, Polyglyceryl-3 Beeswax, Dimer Dilinoleyl Dimer Dilinoleate, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Triisostearin, Squalane, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter Unsaponifiables, Cetearyl Ethylhexanoate, Dipalmitoyl Hydroxyproline, Water, Arginine/Lysine Polypeptide, Tocopherol, Tribehenin, Palmitic Acid, Hydroxystearic Acid, Sorbitan Isostearate, Trihydroxystearin, Glycine Soja Oil, Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate, Portulaca Pilosa Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, Lactic Acid, Sucrose Cocoate, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38, Glucomannan, Sorbic Acid

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Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Ethylhexyl Palmitate, also known as octyl palmitate, is created from 2-ethylhexyl alcohol and palmitic acid.

In cosmetics, it plays many roles:

One thing worth noting: a controlled study found this ingredient applied under occlusion to acne-prone subjects increased microcomedones. Just keep in mind this was under occlusive conditions and don't reflect how most products are used day-to-day.

For most people, this is a well-tolerated and lightweight ingredient.

This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe because it is an ester of palmitic acid, a C16 fatty acid that falls within the C11-24 range that Malassezia can metabolize.

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 (aka Pal-GHK) is a synthetic signal peptide made of three amino acids attached to palmitic acid.

That fatty acid attachment is the key: it boosts the peptide's ability to penetrate the skin barrier. This puts it closer to the dermal cells where it can actually make a difference.

Once there, it acts as a matrikine, a signaling peptide that prompts fibroblasts to produce more collagen, fibronectin, and hyaluronic acid.

In vitro studies show it can boost collagen production in skin cells even when UV-damaged skin samples were treated with it at a tiny concentration (it almost fully restored dermal collagen at 5ppm). It achieved this at 100x lower concentration than retinoic acid, which needed 500 ppm to do the same thing.

Human clinical data is promising, but modest:

A study of 23 female volunteers found a small but statistically significant increase (~4%) in skin thickness after treatment at 4 ppm.

A separate small trial of 15 women showed statistically significant reductions in wrinkle length, depth, and skin roughness after applying it twice daily for four weeks.

You'll likely see Pal-GHK paired with Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7 as part of the Matrixyl 3000 complex.

Fungal acne note: Usually a palmitic acid component can feed Malassezia in unbound form, but here is is covalently bonded to the peptide. This means it is very difficult for Malassezia to access, and therefore very unlikely to cause fungal acne.

Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate (long name, huh?) is a synthetic antioxidant.

It is used to help stabilize other antioxidants or prevent the color from changing in a product.

As an antioxidant, it helps fight free-radical molecules. Free-radical molecules are capable of damaging our cells and other genetic material. Thus, antioxidants may reduce the signs of aging.

This ingredient is oil-soluble.

Sorbitan Isostearate is an emulsifer. It is created from isostearic acid and sorbitol.

As an emulsifier, it keeps the water and oil ingredients from separating. This keeps formulas stable and smooth.

In a 24 hour occlusive patch test on 56 subjects, 10% sorbitan isostearate was completely non-irritating. Most formulas use less than 10%.

Because it's a fatty acid ester, it may not be fungal acne safe since the Malassezia yeast can utilize it as a nutrient source.

Tocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.

You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.

Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.

It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.

This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.

This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.

In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.

Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.

Tribehenin is the triglyceride of glycerin and behenic acid. It is an emollient that helps soften and condition skin.

Safety-wise, this is a well-vetted ingredient. Repeated-insult patch tests of 0.38% tribehenin did not trigger sensitization.

This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe because behenic acid falls into the chain-length range that Malassezia yeasts can feed on.

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