Skin science article
Indeed Labs Hydraluron+ Volumising Lip Treatment Versus Paula's Choice Boost Hyaluronic Acid + Peptide Lip Booster
Indeed Labs Hydraluron+ Volumising Lip Treatment Versus Paula's Choice Boost Hyaluronic Acid + Peptide Lip Booster This anti-aging lip moisturizer is formulated around Butyrospermum Parkii Butter and Sodium Hyaluronate to soften the look of wrinkles and hydrat
Indeed Labs Hydraluron+ Volumising Lip Treatment Versus Paula's Choice Boost Hyaluronic Acid + Peptide Lip Booster
This anti-aging lip moisturizer is formulated around Butyrospermum Parkii Butter and Sodium Hyaluronate to soften the look of wrinkles and hydrate lips.
This anti-aging lip moisturizer is formulated around Sodium Hyaluronate and Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 to soften the look of wrinkles and hydrate lips.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Polybutene
Hydrogenated Polydecene
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
Punica Granatum Sterols
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Euphorbia Cerifera Wax
Isosorbide Disunflowerseedate
Hydroxystearic Acid
Mangifera Indica Seed Butter
Tocopheryl Acetate
Ethylhexyl Palmitate
Cetearyl Ethylhexanoate
Polyethylene
Silica Dimethyl Silylate
Stearic Acid
1,2-Hexanediol
Caprylyl Glycol
Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate
Sorbitan Isostearate
Carthamus Tinctorius Seed Oil
Palmitic Acid
Portulaca Pilosa Extract
Trihydroxystearin
Sucrose Cocoate
Camellia Oleifera Leaf Extract
Coffea Arabica Seed Extract
Euterpe Oleracea Fruit Extract
Garcinia Mangostana Peel Extract
Lycium Barbarum Fruit Extract
Morinda Citrifolia Fruit Extract
Punica Granatum Extract
Sodium Hyaluronate
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38
Glucomannan
Polybutene, Hydrogenated Polydecene, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Punica Granatum Sterols, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Euphorbia Cerifera Wax, Isosorbide Disunflowerseedate, Hydroxystearic Acid, Mangifera Indica Seed Butter, Tocopheryl Acetate, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Cetearyl Ethylhexanoate, Polyethylene, Silica Dimethyl Silylate, Stearic Acid, 1,2-Hexanediol, Caprylyl Glycol, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Sorbitan Isostearate, Carthamus Tinctorius Seed Oil, Palmitic Acid, Portulaca Pilosa Extract, Trihydroxystearin, Sucrose Cocoate, Camellia Oleifera Leaf Extract, Coffea Arabica Seed Extract, Euterpe Oleracea Fruit Extract, Garcinia Mangostana Peel Extract, Lycium Barbarum Fruit Extract, Morinda Citrifolia Fruit Extract, Punica Granatum Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38, Glucomannan
Diisostearyl Malate
Hydrogenated Castor Oil/Sebacic Acid Copolymer
Theobroma Cacao Seed Butter
Dipentaerythrityl Tetrabehenate/Polyhydroxystearate
Polyamide-8
Polyglyceryl-3 Beeswax
Dimer Dilinoleyl Dimer Dilinoleate
Triisostearin
Squalane
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter Unsaponifiables
Dipalmitoyl Hydroxyproline
Water
Arginine/Lysine Polypeptide
Tocopherol
Tribehenin
Glycine Soja Oil
Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate
Lactic Acid
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1
Sorbic Acid
Diisostearyl Malate, Hydrogenated Castor Oil/Sebacic Acid Copolymer, Theobroma Cacao Seed Butter, Dipentaerythrityl Tetrabehenate/Polyhydroxystearate, Polyamide-8, Polyglyceryl-3 Beeswax, Dimer Dilinoleyl Dimer Dilinoleate, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Triisostearin, Squalane, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter Unsaponifiables, Cetearyl Ethylhexanoate, Dipalmitoyl Hydroxyproline, Water, Arginine/Lysine Polypeptide, Tocopherol, Tribehenin, Palmitic Acid, Hydroxystearic Acid, Sorbitan Isostearate, Trihydroxystearin, Glycine Soja Oil, Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate, Portulaca Pilosa Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, Lactic Acid, Sucrose Cocoate, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38, Glucomannan, Sorbic Acid
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Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Cetearyl Ethylhexanoate is derived from cetearyl alcohol and sorbic acid.
It is an emollient and helps hydrate the skin. Emollients form a barrier on the skin to prevent water from escaping.
Ethylhexyl Palmitate, also known as octyl palmitate, is created from 2-ethylhexyl alcohol and palmitic acid.
In cosmetics, it plays many roles:
One thing worth noting: a controlled study found this ingredient applied under occlusion to acne-prone subjects increased microcomedones. Just keep in mind this was under occlusive conditions and don't reflect how most products are used day-to-day.
For most people, this is a well-tolerated and lightweight ingredient.
This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe because it is an ester of palmitic acid, a C16 fatty acid that falls within the C11-24 range that Malassezia can metabolize.
Glucomannan is a fiber created from the Konjac plant. It is an emulsifier and thickener.
The high polysaccharide content makes it great at adjusting the texture of products. (Kind of like starch).
Polysaccharides also help our skin stay hydrated.
This ingredient is water-soluble.
Hydroxystearic Acid is a C18 fatty acid derived from castor oil.
In cosmetics, it pulls triple duty:
Reported use concentrations for this ingredient go up to about 13.2% in makeup but tends to be lower in skincare.
Fungal acne: Since hydroxystearic acid is a C18 fatty acid, it falls into the C11-24 range that the Malassezia yeast can metabolize. This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe.
Palmitic Acid is a fatty acid naturally found in our skin and in many plant and animal sources.
In cosmetics, it is usually derived from palm oil. It serves many purposes in skincare, acting as a cleanser, emollient, and emulsifier.
Interestingly, topically applied Palmitic Acid can be elongated into longer chain fatty acids and ceramides. A 2019 study found low levels of Palmitic Acid lead to slower development of cells, suggesting it plays a role in keeping your skin's renewal process on track.
The CIR (Cosmetic Ingredient Review) panel determined it safe as used in cosmetics at concentrations up to 13%. It is non-irritating and non-sensitizing in clinical studies.
The culprit behind fungal acne, the Malassezia yeast, feeds on fatty acids with carbon chain lengths between C11-C24. Palmitic Acid, at C16, falls right into that sweet spot.
In vitro studies have shown that Palmitic Acid is one of the fatty acids that induce rapid Malassezia growth in lab settings.
It's worth noting that what feeds yeast in a lab doesn't necessarily feed it on your face since formulation and your skin's chemistry play a bigger role.
This synthetic, signal peptide has unique skin conditioning properties in that is a matrikine-mimetic compound.
First of all, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38 is a signal peptide; signal peptides tell the body to create more collagen.
What is a matrikine-mimetic compound?
This peptide has the ability to mimic matrikines in skin. Our skin created matrikines by breaking down matrix proteins into peptides.
Matrikines play a role in:
Though further research is needed, this ingredient seems pretty promising. In one study, women over the age of 40 with visible photoaging used a vitamin C serum with this ingredient for 56 days (15% ascorbid acid, 5 ppm palmitoyl tripeptide‐38). The results found improvement in skin roughness and skin tone.
This peptide is also part of the famous Matrixyl synthe’6, a blend of ingredients that also includes glycerin, water, and hydroxypropyl cyclodextrin.
We don't have a description for Portulaca Pilosa Extract yet.
Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.
In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.
Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:
Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.
Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.
You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.
Sorbitan Isostearate is an emulsifer. It is created from isostearic acid and sorbitol.
As an emulsifier, it keeps the water and oil ingredients from separating. This keeps formulas stable and smooth.
In a 24 hour occlusive patch test on 56 subjects, 10% sorbitan isostearate was completely non-irritating. Most formulas use less than 10%.
Because it's a fatty acid ester, it may not be fungal acne safe since the Malassezia yeast can utilize it as a nutrient source.
Sucrose cocoate is a mild multitasking ingredient made by esterifying sugar with the fatty acids of coconut oil.
It functions as a surfactant, emulsifier, and skin-conditioning ingredient all in one.
Typical use concentrations range from:
This ingredient is well-tolerated across skin types and has been classified safe for use in cosmetic products by the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel. It's even considered gentle enough for use in baby care products like shampoos and lotions.
Fungal acne note: Sucrose cocoate is a fatty acid ester derived from coconut oil that contains fatty acids in the C12-18 range. This is the range that Malassezia can metabolize, meaning this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe.
Trihydroxystearin is what you get when you fully hydrogenate castor oil into a waxy, fine powder.
It's mostly a behind-the-scenes texture enhancer that's especially good at "thixotropic" thing where the product stays thick but applies nicely.
Because of its structure, it also acts as a mild skin conditioning emollient that helps soften skin while preventing moisture loss.
Safety studies show it to be safe and non-irritation in clinical tests. It's typically used in concentrations up to 5%.
Since its an ester of a C18 fatty acid, it falls into the C11-24 range that Malassezia can potentially feed on. This makes it not fungal-acne safe.