Peptide Skincare & BeautySkin science and ingredient guides

Skin science article

IMAGE skincare The Max Eye Crème Versus SkinCeuticals Eye Balm

IMAGE skincare The Max Eye Crème Versus SkinCeuticals Eye Balm This anti-aging eye moisturizer is formulated around Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38 and Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 to soften the look of wrinkles. This barrier-repair eye moisturizer is formulated around Aloe B

IMAGE skincare The Max Eye Crème Versus SkinCeuticals Eye Balm

This anti-aging eye moisturizer is formulated around Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38 and Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 to soften the look of wrinkles.

This barrier-repair eye moisturizer is formulated around Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract and Tocopherol to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrate skin.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Glycerin

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Cyclopentasiloxane

Sucrose Palmitate

Dimethicone

Cetearyl Olivate

Hydrogenated Olive Oil

Sorbitan Olivate

Glyceryl Linoleate

Tocopheryl Acetate

Olea Europaea Fruit Oil

Phenoxyethanol

Isomalt

Citrus Grandis Peel Oil

Limonene

Albizia Julibrissin Bark Extract

Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract

Bisabolol

Brassica Campestris/Aleurites Fordi Oil Copolymer

Butyrospermum Parkii Butter

Pullulan

Olea Europaea Oil Unsaponifiables

Steareth-20

Allantoin

Sodium Polystyrene Sulfonate

Malus Domestica Fruit Cell Culture Extract

Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate

Polyacrylamide

Carbomer

Sodium Benzoate

C13-14 Isoparaffin

Hesperidin Methyl Chalcone

Ethylhexylglycerin

Saccharomyces Cerevisiae Extract

Glycine Soja Sterols

Linoleic Acid

Nannochloropsis Oculata Extract

Phospholipids

Potassium Sorbate

Citric Acid

Sodium Hyaluronate

Xanthan Gum

Farnesol

Leontopodium Alpinum Meristem Cell Culture

Sodium Hydroxide

Laureth-7

Sodium Citrate

Chlorhexidine Digluconate

Lecithin

Echinacea Angustifolia Extract

N-Hydroxysuccinimide

Dipeptide Diaminobutyroyl Benzylamide Diacetate

Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38

Vitis Vinifera Fruit Cell Extract

Caprylyl Glycol

Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract

Dipeptide-2

Argania Spinosa Callus Culture Extract

Citral

Darutoside

Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7

Acetyl Hexapeptide-8

Tocopherol

Chrysin

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1

Acetyl Octapeptide-3

Biotin

Water, Glycerin, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Cyclopentasiloxane, Sucrose Palmitate, Dimethicone, Cetearyl Olivate, Hydrogenated Olive Oil, Sorbitan Olivate, Glyceryl Linoleate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Olea Europaea Fruit Oil, Phenoxyethanol, Isomalt, Citrus Grandis Peel Oil, Limonene, Albizia Julibrissin Bark Extract, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract, Bisabolol, Brassica Campestris/Aleurites Fordi Oil Copolymer, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Pullulan, Olea Europaea Oil Unsaponifiables, Steareth-20, Allantoin, Sodium Polystyrene Sulfonate, Malus Domestica Fruit Cell Culture Extract, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Polyacrylamide, Carbomer, Sodium Benzoate, C13-14 Isoparaffin, Hesperidin Methyl Chalcone, Ethylhexylglycerin, Saccharomyces Cerevisiae Extract, Glycine Soja Sterols, Linoleic Acid, Nannochloropsis Oculata Extract, Phospholipids, Potassium Sorbate, Citric Acid, Sodium Hyaluronate, Xanthan Gum, Farnesol, Leontopodium Alpinum Meristem Cell Culture, Sodium Hydroxide, Laureth-7, Sodium Citrate, Chlorhexidine Digluconate, Lecithin, Echinacea Angustifolia Extract, N-Hydroxysuccinimide, Dipeptide Diaminobutyroyl Benzylamide Diacetate, Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38, Vitis Vinifera Fruit Cell Extract, Caprylyl Glycol, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Dipeptide-2, Argania Spinosa Callus Culture Extract, Citral, Darutoside, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Tocopherol, Chrysin, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Acetyl Octapeptide-3, Biotin

Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice

Myristyl Myristate

Cetyl Palmitate

Stearic Acid

Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil

Paraffin

Palmitic Acid

Petrolatum

Hydrogenated Lecithin

Cetyl Alcohol

Caprylic/Capric/Myristic/Stearic Triglyceride

Triethanolamine

Lauroyl Lysine

Glycine Soja Protein

Pentylene Glycol

Chlorphenesin

Myristic Acid

Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate

Silybum Marianum Extract

Disodium EDTA

Retinyl Palmitate

Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil

Crithmum Maritimum Extract

Water, Glycerin, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Myristyl Myristate, Cetyl Palmitate, Tocopherol, Stearic Acid, Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil, Paraffin, Palmitic Acid, Petrolatum, Dimethicone, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Cetyl Alcohol, Caprylic/Capric/Myristic/Stearic Triglyceride, Phenoxyethanol, Triethanolamine, Lauroyl Lysine, Carbomer, Glycine Soja Protein, Pentylene Glycol, Caprylyl Glycol, Chlorphenesin, Bisabolol, Myristic Acid, Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate, Silybum Marianum Extract, Disodium EDTA, Retinyl Palmitate, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Sodium Benzoate, Potassium Sorbate, Farnesol, Crithmum Maritimum Extract

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract is a botanical extract pulled from the leaves of aloe vera and one of the most studied plant ingredients in cosmetics.

The inner leaf gel it comes from is mostly water (~99-99.5%) and the remaining fraction is made up of pretty good stuff: polysaccharides, vitamins, phenolics, and enzymes.

Its headline job is hydration.

The star polysaccharide in aloe, acemannan, is a humectant that retains moisture and helps reduce trans-epidermal water loss.

Aloe also has real soothing credentials; it contains anti-inflammatory compounds like bradykinase and C-glucosyl chromone that help calm irritation and redness.

On the repair side, lab work shows that acemannan wakes up your skin's repair cells (fibroblasts), prompting them to multiply and speed up healing.

There's some human data for cosmetic benefit too: a cream containing 10% Aloe Barbadensis leaf extract improved skin hydration and elasticity in a real-use study.

Safety-wise, this ingredient is well-regarded with just one rare downside; there have been some case reports of acute eczema, contact urticaria, and dermatitis in people who applied aloe-derived ingredients topically. Those with a known aloe or Liliaceae sensitivity should patch test.

Typical use levels range widely, from under 1% up to 90%+ depending on the format and the effect you are after.

Bisabolol is a gentle skin conditioner, antioxidant, and soothing ingredient.

It's primary claim to fame is soothing and research shows topically applied bisabolol can quiet the chemical messengers that cause your skin to become inflamed, helping to sooth any irritation.

A clinical study found that applying 0.5% bisabolol daily for 8 weeks produced an average 9% decrease in skin pigmentation. Researchers found it can also suppress the process that leads to excess melanin production in skin.

In vitro studies found that bisabolol combined with propylene glycol significantly increased skin permeability by increasing lipid fluidity in the stratum corneum.

You'll likely see use concentrations quite low, usually 0.1-0.2%.

Overall, this is a well-tolerated ingredient that works well in formulas designed for sensitive, reactive, or post-procedure skin.

Caprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.

Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.

Because it is not a free-fatty acid, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).

Carbomer is a synthetic thickening and gelling agent. It's basically the ingredient that gives a lot of serums, gels, creams, and sunscreens their smooth, non-sticky texture.

Although legally permitted at very high levels, carbomers are normally used at concentrations below 1%.

It also needs to be neutralized to actually thicken, and because it is a large molecule, it doesn't really penetrate the skin barrier.

Allergy-wise, the risk is very low. Clinical studies show carbomers have low potential for skin irritation/sensitization even at concentrations up to 100%.

A 2024 UK study patch-tested 1,302 patients and found true allergy to the parent group of carbomer to be rare with no confirmed relevant reactions.

Dimethicone is a type of synthetic silicone created from natural materials such as quartz. It is also known as polydimethylsiloxane.

What it does:

Dimethicone comes in different viscosities:

Depending on the viscosity, dimethicone has different properties.

Ingredients lists don't always show which type is used, so we recommend reaching out to the brand if you have questions about the viscosity.

This ingredient is unlikely to cause irritation because it does not get absorbed into skin. However, people with silicone allergies should be careful about using this ingredient.

Note: Dimethicone may contribute to pilling. This is because it is not oil or water soluble, so pilling may occur when layered with products. When mixed with heavy oils in a formula, the outcome is also quite greasy.

Farnesol is a compound extracted from essential oils such as lemongrass, rose, and more. It is used as a fragrance in products to help boost floral scents.

Farnesol is a known EU allergen and causes contact dermatitis.

This ingredient is hydrophobic, meaning it is not soluble in water.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).

It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.

On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.

Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).

You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.

Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.

Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.

Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.

Potassium Sorbate is a preservative used to prevent yeast and mold in products. It is commonly found in both cosmetic and food products.

This ingredient comes from potassium salt derived from sorbic acid. Sorbic acid is a natural antibiotic and effective against fungus.

Both potassium sorbate and sorbic acid can be found in baked goods, cheeses, dried meats, dried fruit, ice cream, pickles, wine, yogurt, and more.

You'll often find this ingredient used with other preservatives.

Sodium Benzoate is a preservative. It's used in both cosmetic and food products to inhibit the growth of mold and bacteria. It is typically produced synthetically.

Both the US FDA and EU Health Committee have approved the use of sodium benzoate. In the US, levels of 0.1% (of the total product) are allowed.

Sodium benzoate works as a preservative by inhibiting the growth of bacteria inside of cells. It prevents the cell from fermenting a type of sugar using an enzyme called phosphofructokinase.

It is the salt of benzoic acid. Foods containing sodium benzoate include soda, salad dressings, condiments, fruit juices, wines, and snack foods.

Studies for using ascorbic acid and sodium benzoate in cosmetics are lacking, especially in skincare routines with multiple steps.

We always recommend speaking with a professional, such as a dermatologist, if you have any concerns.

Tocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.

You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.

Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.

It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.

This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.

This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.

In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.

Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

Similar Comparisons

The reference edit

Ingredients, questions
& further reading.

Connected source records selected through this article’s public topic index.

01

Formula cabinet

Ingredients & structured notes

Ingredient index

Image Skincare Clear Cell - Clarifying MasqueIngredients explained

  1. 01Good old water, aka H2O. The most common skincare ingredient of all. You can usually find it right in the very first spot of the ingredient list, meaning it’s the biggest thing out of all the stuff that makes up the product.
  2. 02It’s mainly a solvent for ingredients that do not like to dissolve in oils but rather in water.
  3. 03Expand to read more
  4. 04Once inside the skin, it hydrates, but not from the outside - putting pure water on the skin (hello long baths!) is drying.
  5. 05One more thing: the water used in cosmetics is purified and deionized (it means that almost all of the mineral ions inside it is removed). Like this, the products can stay more stable over time.
  6. 06Kaolin is a type of clay or to be precise, a naturally occurring hydrous aluminum silicate. When you hear clay, you probably think of a muddy greenish-black mess, but that one is bentonite, and this one is a fine, white powder. It is so white that i…
  7. 07As a clay, it's absorbent and can suck up excess sebum and gunk from your skin, but less so than the more aggressive bentonite. As it's less absorbent, it's also less drying and gentler on the skin, so it's ideal for dry and sensitive skin types.
  8. 08Talc is the major component of most powder makeup products (think face powder, eyeshadows, and blushers) that usually contain it up to 70%. Its two winning properties that make it very suitable for this role is its outstanding spreadability for a sm…
  9. 09Chemically speaking, it is a clay mineral (hydrated magnesium silicate) that is mined in several countries. The drawback of mined minerals is potential impurities and the version used in cosmetics has to be white (not gray like cheaper grades), free…
  10. 10The essential oil coming from the Manuka tree native to New Zealand. It is distantly related to the Australian Tea Tree Oil, although their chemical composition is very different.
  11. 11The main antibacterial active in tea tree oil is terpinen-4-ol (40%), while manuka's main actives are so-called cyclic triketones, such as Leptospermone, Iso-leptospermone, and Flavesone (20-30%). Both oils are antibacterial and antifungal but in di…
  12. 12While tea tree oil is a pretty well established anti-acne ingredient, manuka has more of a "might be useful" status for problem skin. Its strong suit is treating fungal infections such as athlete's foot, nail bed infections or foot odor. Other than …
  13. 13A natural moisturizer that’s also in our skin
  14. 14A super common, safe, effective and cheap molecule used for more than 50 years
  15. 15Not only a simple moisturizer but knows much more: keeps the skin lipids between our skin cells in a healthy (liquid crystal) state, protects against irritation, helps to restore barrier
  16. 16Effective from as low as 3% with even more benefits for dry skin at higher concentrations up to 20-40%
  17. 17High-glycerin moisturizers are awesome for treating severely dry skin
  18. 18We don't have description for this ingredient yet.
  19. 19The extract coming from the juice containing leaves of the Aloe vera plant. It's usually a hydroglycolic extract (though oil extract for the lipid parts also exists) that has similar moisturizing, emollient and anti-inflammatory properties as the ju…
  20. 20Polyethylene is the most common plastic in the world. It is a super versatile polymer (molecule from repeated subunits) and when it comes to cosmetics, it is often referred to as microbeads. Well, it used to be referred to as microbeads, as it was b…
Source · incidecoder.com
02

Product index

Related product references

03

Comparison edit

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