innisfree Collagen Peptide Firming Ampoule Cream Versus ZO Skin Health Daily Power Defense

innisfree Collagen Peptide Firming Ampoule Cream Versus ZO Skin Health Daily Power Defense

This anti-aging moisturizer is formulated around Squalane and Niacinamide to soften the look of wrinkles and hydrate skin.

This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Laminaria Digitata Extract and Beta-Glucan to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrate skin.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Glycerin

Butylene Glycol

Squalane

Methyl Trimethicone

Pentaerythrityl Tetraethylhexanoate

Dibutyl Adipate

Sucrose Polystearate

1,2-Hexanediol

Glyceryl Stearate

Sea Water

Niacinamide

Dipalmitoyl Hydroxyproline

Cetearyl Alcohol

Glyceryl Stearate Citrate

Lactobacillus Ferment Lysate

Palmitic Acid

Hydrogenated Polyisobutene

Stearic Acid

Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer

Xanthan Gum

Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer

Dextrin

Hyaluronic Acid

Hydrolyzed Extensin

Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil

Pentylene Glycol

Sodium Metaphosphate

Glyceryl Caprylate

Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate

Tromethamine

Ethylhexylglycerin

Adenosine

Caprylyl Glycol

Artemisia Vulgaris Oil

Sorbitan Isostearate

Hydrogenated Lecithin

Theobroma Cacao Extract

Sodium Hyaluronate

Santalum Album Oil

Propanediol

Mannitol

Achillea Millefolium Extract

Myristic Acid

Arachidic Acid

Glycine Max Polypeptide

Acrylates/Stearyl Methacrylate Copolymer

Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid

Tremella Fuciformis Sporocarp Extract

Disodium EDTA

Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer

Copper Tripeptide-1

Acetyl Tetrapeptide-2

Tocopherol

Acetyl Heptapeptide-4

Ceramide NP

Acetyl Tetrapeptide-11

Soluble Collagen

Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate

Acetyl Hexapeptide-8

Acetyl Octapeptide-3

Water, Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, Squalane, Methyl Trimethicone, Pentaerythrityl Tetraethylhexanoate, Dibutyl Adipate, Sucrose Polystearate, 1,2-Hexanediol, Glyceryl Stearate, Sea Water, Niacinamide, Dipalmitoyl Hydroxyproline, Cetearyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate Citrate, Lactobacillus Ferment Lysate, Palmitic Acid, Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, Stearic Acid, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Xanthan Gum, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Dextrin, Hyaluronic Acid, Hydrolyzed Extensin, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Pentylene Glycol, Sodium Metaphosphate, Glyceryl Caprylate, Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate, Tromethamine, Ethylhexylglycerin, Adenosine, Caprylyl Glycol, Artemisia Vulgaris Oil, Sorbitan Isostearate, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Theobroma Cacao Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, Santalum Album Oil, Propanediol, Mannitol, Achillea Millefolium Extract, Myristic Acid, Arachidic Acid, Glycine Max Polypeptide, Acrylates/Stearyl Methacrylate Copolymer, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Tremella Fuciformis Sporocarp Extract, Disodium EDTA, Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer, Copper Tripeptide-1, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-2, Tocopherol, Acetyl Heptapeptide-4, Ceramide NP, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-11, Soluble Collagen, Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Acetyl Octapeptide-3

Dicaprylyl Carbonate

Cetearyl Isononanoate

Steareth-20

Safflower Oil/Palm Oil Aminopropanediol Esters

Laminaria Digitata Extract

Opuntia Ficus-Indica Stem Extract

Arabidopsis Thaliana Extract

Marrubium Vulgare Meristem Cell Culture

Leontopodium Alpinum Meristem Cell Culture

Retinyl Palmitate

Tocopheryl Acetate

Micrococcus Lysate

Hexylene Glycol

Lactose

Galactoarabinan

Lecithin

Schizophyllan

Beta-Glucan

Carbomer

Cellulose

Maltodextrin

C14-22 Alcohols

Cetearyl Glucoside

C12-20 Alkyl Glucoside

Hydroxypropyl Methylcellulose

Sodium Hydroxide

Phenoxyethanol

Sodium Benzoate

Parfum

CI 77007

Limonene

Water, Dicaprylyl Carbonate, Cetearyl Isononanoate, Glycerin, Pentylene Glycol, Cetearyl Alcohol, Steareth-20, Safflower Oil/Palm Oil Aminopropanediol Esters, Laminaria Digitata Extract, Opuntia Ficus-Indica Stem Extract, Arabidopsis Thaliana Extract, Marrubium Vulgare Meristem Cell Culture, Leontopodium Alpinum Meristem Cell Culture, Retinyl Palmitate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Tocopherol, Micrococcus Lysate, Caprylyl Glycol, Hexylene Glycol, Lactose, Galactoarabinan, Lecithin, Schizophyllan, Beta-Glucan, 1,2-Hexanediol, Carbomer, Cellulose, Maltodextrin, C14-22 Alcohols, Cetearyl Glucoside, C12-20 Alkyl Glucoside, Hydroxypropyl Methylcellulose, Disodium EDTA, Sodium Hydroxide, Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Sodium Benzoate, Parfum, CI 77007, Limonene

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Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.

It is a:

Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin

Emollient, helping to soften skin

Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas

Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives

Caprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.

Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.

Because it is not a free-fatty acid, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).

Cetearyl alcohol is a waxy mixture of two fatty alcohols: cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol. It is an emollient and emulsifier.

Despite having "alcohol" in its name, it has nothing to do with drying solvent alcohols; the FDA also allows "alcohol-free" products to contain fatty alcohols like this ingredient.

It plays several roles in a formula:

Typical use levels for this ingredient sit around 1-10% and the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has affirmed safety at concentrations up to 25% in leave-on products.

Multiple assessments have found it to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing to most people.

However, there have been some cases of allergic contact dermatitis in patients with chronically compromised skin barriers.

Cetearyl alcohol has a comedogenic rating of 2 and irritancy rating of 1. Both of these numbers come from the 1989 study that used rabbit ears; a "2" means mildly comedogenic and a "1" means low irritancy.

Here's the catch: rabbit skin is more sensitive than human skin and throws a lot of false positives. A 1996 reappraisal found that ingredients rated 1-2 in the rabbit ear tests are generally safe for humans.

Remember comedogenic ratings are unable to assess the entire formula of a product or how it will react on your skin. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure about certain ingredients.

This ingredient is not fungal acne safe. Cetearyl alcohol is a fatty alcohol with chain lengths that fall within the range that Malassezia can metabolize.

A 2019 study has also observed Malassezia growth in the presence of this ingredient, confirming it to be not-fungal acne safe.

Disodium EDTA is a chelating agent. It grabs onto and deactivates metal ions that sneak into your products from water, packaging, or air.

This ingredient mainly works behind the scenes and helps with:

On top of that, this ingredient can counteract the effects of hard water by binding to the minerals in it.

One thing worth knowing is that Disodium EDTA has been shown to be a mild penetration enhancer. It can help other ingredients absorb into skin more effectively which can be a double-edged sword (great for actives, but can also make the active too strong if you have sensitive skin).

Clinical patch testing showed no significant skin irritation at typical use concentrations and minimal dermal absorption.

You'll most likely see this ingredient near the end of an ingredient list. It's typically found in concentrations less than 1%.

Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:

The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.

Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Pentylene Glycol (1,2-pentanediol) is a multitasking little diol with three main roles in a formula:

Research on alkanediols (the family pentylene glycol belongs to) show they work by disrupting microbial cell membranes. This disruption helps the primary preservative system in a product work more effectively at lower doses.

On the safety side, the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has concluded this ingredient to be safe as used in current cosmetic practices + concentrations.

Typical use levels in a formula run about 1-5%.

Tocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.

You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.

Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.

It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.

This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.

This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.

In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.

Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

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