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Skin science article

ISANA Pure Serum Versus Q + A Vitamin C Eye Cream

ISANA Pure Serum Versus Q + A Vitamin C Eye Cream This hydrating serum is formulated around Panthenol and Sodium Hyaluronate to hydrate skin and strengthen the skin barrier. This brightening eye moisturizer is formulated around Ascorbic Acid and Niacinamide to

ISANA Pure Serum Versus Q + A Vitamin C Eye Cream

This hydrating serum is formulated around Panthenol and Sodium Hyaluronate to hydrate skin and strengthen the skin barrier.

This brightening eye moisturizer is formulated around Ascorbic Acid and Niacinamide to brighten dull-looking skin and soften the look of wrinkles.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

No concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Glycerin

Betaine

Phenoxyethanol

Panthenol

Hydroxyacetophenone

Xanthan Gum

Sodium Hyaluronate

Citric Acid

Water, Glycerin, Betaine, Phenoxyethanol, Panthenol, Hydroxyacetophenone, Xanthan Gum, Sodium Hyaluronate, Citric Acid

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Propanediol

C14-22 Alcohols

Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil

Rhus Verniciflua Peel Cera

Butyrospermum Parkii Butter

Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer

Volcanic Soil

Ascorbic Acid

Niacinamide

Glycogen

Hyaluronic Acid

Malpighia Emarginata Fruit Extract

Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil

Amylopectin

O-Cymen-5-Ol

Polysorbate 60

Sorbitan Isostearate

Glucose

Caprylyl Glycol

C12-20 Alkyl Glucoside

1,2-Hexanediol

Ethylhexylglycerin

Tocopherol

Water, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Propanediol, C14-22 Alcohols, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Rhus Verniciflua Peel Cera, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Glycerin, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Volcanic Soil, Ascorbic Acid, Niacinamide, Glycogen, Hyaluronic Acid, Malpighia Emarginata Fruit Extract, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Amylopectin, O-Cymen-5-Ol, Polysorbate 60, Sorbitan Isostearate, Glucose, Caprylyl Glycol, Xanthan Gum, C12-20 Alkyl Glucoside, 1,2-Hexanediol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Tocopherol, Citric Acid

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Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Citric Acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) naturally found in citrus fruits like oranges, lemons, and limes.

Like other AHAs, citric acid can exfoliate skin by breaking down the bonds that hold dead skin cells together. This helps reveal smoother and brighter skin underneath.

However, this exfoliating effect only happens at high concentrations (20%) which can be hard to find in cosmetic products.

Due to this, citric acid is usually included in small amounts as a pH adjuster. This helps keep products slightly more acidic and compatible with skin's natural pH.

In skincare formulas, citric acid can:

While it can provide some skin benefits, research shows lactic acid and glycolic acid are generally more effective and less irritating exfoliants.

Most citric acid used in skincare today is made by fermenting sugars (usually from molasses). This synthetic version is identical to the natural citrus form but easier to stabilize and use in formulations.

Rosacea skin has a lower threshold for acids generally, with 62.5% of rosacea subjects in one study reacting to lactic acid in a sting test. This is why we mark citric acid as a potential rosacea trigger.

However, this ingredient shows up as a pH adjuster or chelator at roughly 0.1-1% in many products. These low levels are unlikely to be an issue for rosacea skin and becomes a potential trigger at exfoliating concentrations (20%). Because everybody's skin is unique, we recommend a patch test if you are unsure.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

Xanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.

On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.

Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.

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The reference edit

Ingredients, questions
& further reading.

Connected source records selected through this article’s public topic index.

01

Formula cabinet

Ingredients & structured notes

Ingredient index

Ingredients Explained

  1. 01These ingredients are found in both products.
  2. 02Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
  3. 03Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
  4. 04Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
  5. 05Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
  6. 06This ingredient is also known as shea butter. It is a plant-derived extract from the nuts of the Africa shea tree and one of the most well-studied emollients.
  7. 07Because it has a high concentration of fatty acids (primarily oleic, stearic, and linoleic) it is able to form a protective barrier on the skin's surface. This helps seal in moisture and prevents transepidermal water loss (TEWL).
  8. 08In vitro research found an increase in skin hydration by 58% and a decrease in TEWL by 37.8% after 24 hours of applying this ingredient (pretty impressive for a single ingredient!).
  9. 09Besides hydration, shea butter also contains triterpenes that have anti-inflammatory potential. In particule, lupeol cinnamate has shown the highest anti-inflammatory activity in vivo.
  10. 10Shea butter also contains vitamins A and E which may contribute to antioxidant activity.
  11. 11While Shea Butter has an SPF rating of about 3-4, it is not a sunscreen replacement.
  12. 12This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe because its fatty acids fall within the C11-C24 range that the Malassezia yeast can metabolize.
  13. 13Dimethicone is a type of synthetic silicone created from natural materials such as quartz. It is also known as polydimethylsiloxane.
  14. 14What it does:
  15. 15Dimethicone comes in different viscosities:
  16. 16Depending on the viscosity, dimethicone has different properties.
  17. 17Ingredients lists don't always show which type is used, so we recommend reaching out to the brand if you have questions about the viscosity.
  18. 18This ingredient is unlikely to cause irritation because it does not get absorbed into skin. However, people with silicone allergies should be careful about using this ingredient.
  19. 19Note: Dimethicone may contribute to pilling. This is because it is not oil or water soluble, so pilling may occur when layered with products. When mixed with heavy oils in a formula, the outcome is also quite greasy.
  20. 20Dimethiconol is a silicone that resembles the popular dimethicone. Like other silicones, it is an emollient. Emollients create a thin film on skin to prevent moisture from escaping.
Source · skinsort.com
02

Product index

Related product references

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03

Comparison edit

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