Peptide Skincare & BeautySkin science and ingredient guides

Skin science article

ISDIN K-Ox Eyes Versus Oceane Vitamin C Eye Cream

ISDIN K-Ox Eyes Versus Oceane Vitamin C Eye Cream This brightening eye moisturizer is formulated around Hesperidin Methyl Chalcone and Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7 to fade the look of dark spots and soften the look of wrinkles. This brightening eye moisturizer is

ISDIN K-Ox Eyes Versus Oceane Vitamin C Eye Cream

This brightening eye moisturizer is formulated around Hesperidin Methyl Chalcone and Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7 to fade the look of dark spots and soften the look of wrinkles.

This brightening eye moisturizer is formulated around Ascorbic Acid and Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate to brighten dull-looking skin and fade the look of dark spots.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Glycerin

Isohexadecane

Isopropyl Myristate

PPG-15 Stearyl Ether

PEG-30 Dipolyhydroxystearate

Phytonadione Epoxide

Magnesium Sulfate

Phenoxyethanol

Parfum

Cera Microcristallina

CI 77891

Sodium Dextran Sulfate

Acrylates/C12-22 Alkyl Methacrylate Copolymer

Steareth-20

Hesperidin Methyl Chalcone

Disodium EDTA

Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid

Ethylhexylglycerin

PEG-8

Pentylene Glycol

Tocopherol

Chlorhexidine Digluconate

N-Hydroxysuccinimide

BHT

Potassium Sorbate

Dipeptide-2

Ascorbyl Palmitate

Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7

Citric Acid

Ascorbic Acid

Chrysin

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1

Sodium Citrate

Biotin

Water, Glycerin, Isohexadecane, Isopropyl Myristate, PPG-15 Stearyl Ether, PEG-30 Dipolyhydroxystearate, Phytonadione Epoxide, Magnesium Sulfate, Phenoxyethanol, Parfum, Cera Microcristallina, CI 77891, Sodium Dextran Sulfate, Acrylates/C12-22 Alkyl Methacrylate Copolymer, Steareth-20, Hesperidin Methyl Chalcone, Disodium EDTA, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Ethylhexylglycerin, PEG-8, Pentylene Glycol, Tocopherol, Chlorhexidine Digluconate, N-Hydroxysuccinimide, BHT, Potassium Sorbate, Dipeptide-2, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Citric Acid, Ascorbic Acid, Chrysin, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Sodium Citrate, Biotin

Cetearyl Alcohol

Isododecane

Butyrospermum Parkii Butter

Synthetic Beeswax

Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil

Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate

Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate

3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid

Colloidal Gold

Glutathione

Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Fruit Extract

Allantoin

Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil

Cetearyl Olivate

Sorbitan Olivate

Glyceryl Stearate

PEG-100 Stearate

Sorbitan Sesquioleate

Coco-Caprylate/Caprate

Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer

Polyacrylate-13

Polyisobutene

Polysorbate 20

Sorbitan Isostearate

Tromethamine

1,2-Hexanediol

Hydroxyacetophenone

Mica

CI 77491

Water, Glycerin, Cetearyl Alcohol, Isododecane, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Synthetic Beeswax, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Ascorbic Acid, Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, Colloidal Gold, Glutathione, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Fruit Extract, Allantoin, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Cetearyl Olivate, Sorbitan Olivate, Glyceryl Stearate, PEG-100 Stearate, Sorbitan Sesquioleate, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Polyacrylate-13, Polyisobutene, Polysorbate 20, Sorbitan Isostearate, Disodium EDTA, Tromethamine, Tocopherol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Hydroxyacetophenone, Mica, CI 77891, CI 77491

Reviews

Be the first to review

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Ascorbic Acid is is pure Vitamin C and is the biologically active form used directly by skin.

Not only is vitamin C great for your overall health and immune system, but it also has plenty of benefits for your skin. It is best supported by academic literature for:

Topical vitamin C has been shown to help neutralize oxidative stress from UV and pollution, helping to improve photoaging and hyperpigmentation when used consistently.

One clinical study found that using 5% topical vitamin C for six months improved signs of photodamaged skin, both on the surface and in the deeper structural layers of the skin.

While vitamin C doesn’t replace sunscreen, studies show it can boost photoprotection when combined with Vitamin E and ferulic acid. These two ingredients help improve stability and protective effects.

The big downside of this ingredient is formulation difficulty. Vitamin C is prone to oxidation and doesn't penetrate the skin unless formulated correctly. Research found that vitamin C absorbs into the skin best at a low pH (< 3.5) with about 20% being the upper limit for effective absorption.

Skin levels can saturate after repeated application; this means your skin won’t keep absorbing more once it’s full of vitamin C. This is why more isn’t always better with vitamin C and why very high concentrations don’t necessarily give extra benefits.

Ascorbic acid generally works well with many skincare ingredients but can be irritating when combined with other active ingredients. Strong oxidizing acne treatments like benzoyl peroxide can reduce the effectiveness of vitamin C if they are used at the same time; they are often recommended for use at different times of day.

Read more about other types of Vitamin C:

Foods rich with vitamin C include oranges, strawberries, broccoli, bell peppers, and more. When consuming Vitamin C, your skin receives a portion of the nutrients.

Ci 77891 is a white pigment from Titanium dioxide. It is naturally found in minerals such as rutile and ilmenite.

It's main function is to add a white color to cosmetics. It can also be mixed with other colors to create different shades.

Ci 77891 is commonly found in sunscreens due to its ability to block UV rays.

Disodium EDTA is a chelating agent. It grabs onto and deactivates metal ions that sneak into your products from water, packaging, or air.

This ingredient mainly works behind the scenes and helps with:

On top of that, this ingredient can counteract the effects of hard water by binding to the minerals in it.

One thing worth knowing is that Disodium EDTA has been shown to be a mild penetration enhancer. It can help other ingredients absorb into skin more effectively which can be a double-edged sword (great for actives, but can also make the active too strong if you have sensitive skin).

Clinical patch testing showed no significant skin irritation at typical use concentrations and minimal dermal absorption.

You'll most likely see this ingredient near the end of an ingredient list. It's typically found in concentrations less than 1%.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Tocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.

You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.

Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.

It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.

This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.

This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.

In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.

Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

Similar Comparisons

The reference edit

Ingredients, questions
& further reading.

Connected source records selected through this article’s public topic index.

01

Formula cabinet

Ingredients & structured notes

Ingredient index

Ingredients Explained

  1. 01These ingredients are found in both products.
  2. 02Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
  3. 03Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
  4. 04Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
  5. 05Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
  6. 06Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
  7. 07Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
  8. 08Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
  9. 09Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
  10. 10This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
  11. 11Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
  12. 12Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
  13. 13Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).
  14. 14It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.
  15. 15On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.
  16. 16Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).
  17. 17You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.
  18. 18Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.
  19. 19Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.
  20. 20Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.
Source · skinsort.com
02

Product index

Related product references

03

Comparison edit

Read side by side