Skin science article
Isntree Chestnut PHA 5% Clear Cream Versus Beauty of Joseon Green Plum Refreshing Toner : AHA + BHA
Isntree Chestnut PHA 5% Clear Cream Versus Beauty of Joseon Green Plum Refreshing Toner : AHA + BHA This smoothing night moisturizer is formulated around Gluconolactone and Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil to refine skin texture and strengthen the skin barrier. T
Isntree Chestnut PHA 5% Clear Cream Versus Beauty of Joseon Green Plum Refreshing Toner : AHA + BHA
This smoothing night moisturizer is formulated around Gluconolactone and Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil to refine skin texture and strengthen the skin barrier.
This smoothing toner is formulated around Glycolic Acid and Salicylic Acid to refine skin texture and clear breakouts.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Gluconolactone
1,2-Hexanediol
Cetyl Ethylhexanoate
Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate
Betaine
Ethylhexyl Stearate
Hydrogenated Poly(C6-14 Olefin)
Centella Asiatica Extract
Chenopodium Quinoa Seed Extract
Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract
Cetearyl Alcohol
Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6
Sorbitan Stearate
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
Palmitic Acid
Xanthan Gum
Stearic Acid
Cetearyl Olivate
Sorbitan Olivate
Hydroxypropyl Starch Phosphate
Panthenol
Disodium EDTA
Sorbitan Isostearate
Sodium PCA
Myristic Acid
Beta-Glucan
Ceramide NP
Madecassoside
Glycerin
Tromethamine
Hydrogenated Lecithin
T-Butyl Alcohol
Propanediol
Ethylhexylglycerin
Castanea Crenata Shell Extract
Water, Gluconolactone, 1,2-Hexanediol, Cetyl Ethylhexanoate, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate, Betaine, Ethylhexyl Stearate, Hydrogenated Poly(C6-14 Olefin), Centella Asiatica Extract, Chenopodium Quinoa Seed Extract, Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract, Cetearyl Alcohol, Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6, Sorbitan Stearate, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Palmitic Acid, Xanthan Gum, Stearic Acid, Cetearyl Olivate, Sorbitan Olivate, Hydroxypropyl Starch Phosphate, Panthenol, Disodium EDTA, Sorbitan Isostearate, Sodium PCA, Myristic Acid, Beta-Glucan, Ceramide NP, Madecassoside, Glycerin, Tromethamine, Hydrogenated Lecithin, T-Butyl Alcohol, Propanediol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Castanea Crenata Shell Extract
Prunus Mume Fruit Water
Dipropylene Glycol
Glycolic Acid
Butylene Glycol
Hydroxyacetophenone
Salicylic Acid
Vigna Radiata Seed Extract
Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract
Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract
Coccinia Indica Fruit Extract
Ocimum Sanctum Leaf Extract
Curcuma Longa Root Extract
Aloe Barbadensis Flower Extract
Solanum Melongena Fruit Extract
Corallina Officinalis Extract
C12-14 Pareth-12
Octyldodeceth-16
Water, Prunus Mume Fruit Water, Dipropylene Glycol, Glycerin, Glycolic Acid, Butylene Glycol, Tromethamine, 1,2-Hexanediol, Hydroxyacetophenone, Salicylic Acid, Ethylhexylglycerin, Vigna Radiata Seed Extract, Disodium EDTA, Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract, Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract, Coccinia Indica Fruit Extract, Ocimum Sanctum Leaf Extract, Curcuma Longa Root Extract, Aloe Barbadensis Flower Extract, Solanum Melongena Fruit Extract, Corallina Officinalis Extract, C12-14 Pareth-12, Xanthan Gum, Octyldodeceth-16
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Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.
It is a:
Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin
Emollient, helping to soften skin
Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas
Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives
Disodium EDTA is a chelating agent. It grabs onto and deactivates metal ions that sneak into your products from water, packaging, or air.
This ingredient mainly works behind the scenes and helps with:
On top of that, this ingredient can counteract the effects of hard water by binding to the minerals in it.
One thing worth knowing is that Disodium EDTA has been shown to be a mild penetration enhancer. It can help other ingredients absorb into skin more effectively which can be a double-edged sword (great for actives, but can also make the active too strong if you have sensitive skin).
Clinical patch testing showed no significant skin irritation at typical use concentrations and minimal dermal absorption.
You'll most likely see this ingredient near the end of an ingredient list. It's typically found in concentrations less than 1%.
Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Tromethamine (aka THAM) is a synthetic amino acid that shows up in skincare as a helper ingredient.
It functions as a pH adjuster to help neutralize acidic ingredients and set a formula's pH to the right spot.
This matters a lot because a lot of actives (like vitamin C) needs a specific pH to work well and feel comfortable on skin.
Concentration use ranges from 0.1-1.0% depending on the formula.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Xanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.
On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.
Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.