Peptide Skincare & BeautySkin science and ingredient guides

Skin science article

Isntree Hyaluronic Acid Aqua Gel Cream Versus Beauty of Joseon Green Plum Refreshing Cleanser

Isntree Hyaluronic Acid Aqua Gel Cream Versus Beauty of Joseon Green Plum Refreshing Cleanser This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Sodium Hyaluronate and Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrate skin. This mild gel

Isntree Hyaluronic Acid Aqua Gel Cream Versus Beauty of Joseon Green Plum Refreshing Cleanser

This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Sodium Hyaluronate and Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrate skin.

This mild gel cleanser is made to cleanse while calming and soothing your skin.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Methylpropanediol

Coco-Caprylate/Caprate

1,2-Hexanediol

Glycerin

Biosaccharide Gum-1

Betaine

Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer

Trehalose

Sodium Hyaluronate

Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid

Centella Asiatica Extract

Polygonum Cuspidatum Root Extract

Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract

Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract

Portulaca Oleracea Extract

Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract

Houttuynia Cordata Extract

Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract

Chamomilla Recutita Flower Extract

Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer

Sodium PCA

Squalane

Isostearyl Alcohol

Butylene Glycol Cocoate

Cetearyl Olivate

Sorbitan Olivate

Hyaluronic Acid

Hydrolyzed Jojoba Esters

Hydrogenated Olive Oil Unsaponifiables

Butylene Glycol

Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate

Allantoin

Xanthan Gum

Ethylcellulose

Propanediol

Phenyl Trimethicone

Pentylene Glycol

Ethylhexylglycerin

Water, Methylpropanediol, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, 1,2-Hexanediol, Glycerin, Biosaccharide Gum-1, Betaine, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Trehalose, Sodium Hyaluronate, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Centella Asiatica Extract, Polygonum Cuspidatum Root Extract, Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Portulaca Oleracea Extract, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract, Houttuynia Cordata Extract, Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract, Chamomilla Recutita Flower Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer, Sodium PCA, Squalane, Isostearyl Alcohol, Butylene Glycol Cocoate, Cetearyl Olivate, Sorbitan Olivate, Hyaluronic Acid, Hydrolyzed Jojoba Esters, Hydrogenated Olive Oil Unsaponifiables, Butylene Glycol, Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate, Allantoin, Xanthan Gum, Ethylcellulose, Propanediol, Phenyl Trimethicone, Pentylene Glycol, Ethylhexylglycerin

Prunus Mume Fruit Water

Cocamidopropyl Hydroxysultaine

Phaseolus Radiatus Seed Extract

Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate

Sodium Chloride

Nelumbo Nucifera Flower Extract

Oryza Sativa Extract

Prunus Mume Fruit Extract

Vaccinium Angustifolium Fruit Extract

Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride

Coconut Acid

Caprylyl Glycol

Sodium Isethionate

Citric Acid

Hydroxyacetophenone

Dextrin

Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract

Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract

Gardenia Florida Fruit Extract

Propylene Glycol Laurate

Sodium Citrate

Disodium EDTA

Water, Prunus Mume Fruit Water, Cocamidopropyl Hydroxysultaine, Phaseolus Radiatus Seed Extract, Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate, Glycerin, Sodium Chloride, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Houttuynia Cordata Extract, Nelumbo Nucifera Flower Extract, Oryza Sativa Extract, Prunus Mume Fruit Extract, Vaccinium Angustifolium Fruit Extract, Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride, Coconut Acid, Ethylhexylglycerin, Caprylyl Glycol, Sodium Isethionate, Citric Acid, Butylene Glycol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Hydroxyacetophenone, Dextrin, Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract, Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract, Gardenia Florida Fruit Extract, Propylene Glycol Laurate, Sodium Citrate, Disodium EDTA

Reviews

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.

It is a:

Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin

Emollient, helping to soften skin

Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas

Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives

Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:

Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.

Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.

Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract (tea extract) is one of the most well-researched plant extracts in skincare with an impressive resume.

Black tea, green tea, and oolong tea are all harvested from the Camellia Sinensis plant.

Studies show green tea extract and its catechins (like epigallocatechin gallate (EGCG)) help your skin cells product energy more efficiently and reducing the number of free-radicals that can damage your skin from the inside.

In lab-grown skin models, this translated to younger, healthier, and stronger skin.

There's also good sun protection data; researchers saw less DNA damage and redness on human skin when green tea was applied before UVB exposure. And the more they applied, the better the protection.

Needless to say, this ingredient shouldn't replace your sunscreen. But it is a great supportive ingredient that you can already find in many sunscreens and antioxidant serums.

A 2009 study found a 2% green tea lotion was effective for mild-to-moderate acne thanks to its anti-inflammatory and mild antimicrobial activity.

The quality of the extract matters a lot here:

Good extracts contain 50-90% catechins while lower quality ones are mostly there for marketing. We recommend reaching out to the brand if you have questions about the quality or source of their ingredients.

Human Repeated Insult Patch Testing showed no irritation or sensitization at use concentrations (0.86% in leave-on products and up to 30% as leaf water).

Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:

The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.

Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Houttuynia Cordata Extract is more commonly known as Heart Leaf, Fish Mint, or Chameleon plant.

The components found in Heart Leaf give it antioxidant, hydrating, antimicrobial, and anti-inflammatory properties.

Heart Leaf is rich in flavonoids such as quercetin, apigenin, and more. It also contains polysaccharides, the most common type of carbs in food.

Flavonoids have been shown to be effective antioxidants. They help neutralize free-radical molecules. Free-radical molecules are unstable molecules that may damage our skin cells and DNA. The flavonoids in Heart Leaf also help soothe the skin.

Polysaccharides are naturally found in our skin. They play a role in hydrating and repairing the top layer of skin. The polysaccharides in Heart Leaf help moisturize our skin.

Studies show decanoyl acetaldehyde, a component of Heart Leaf oil, is effective at killing bacteria.

The name 'Fish Mint' comes from the herb's natural fishy smell. Is is native to southeast Asia and used throughout the continent for traditional cooking and medicine.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

Similar Comparisons

The reference edit

Ingredients, questions
& further reading.

Connected source records selected through this article’s public topic index.

01

Formula cabinet

Ingredients & structured notes

Ingredient index

Ingredients Explained

  1. 01These ingredients are found in both products.
  2. 02Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
  3. 031,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.
  4. 04It is a:
  5. 05Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin
  6. 06Emollient, helping to soften skin
  7. 07Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas
  8. 08Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives
  9. 09Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer is a synthetic polymer. It is used to thicken, emulsify, and improve the texture of products.
  10. 10As an emulsifier, it helps stabilize oil-in-water emulsions to give products an elegant feel when applied.
  11. 11It can also form a thin protective film on skin. One study found that a formula using this polymer helped slow down how quickly other ingredients (like DEET) were absorbed through skin.
  12. 12A 2024 study of over 1,300 patients confirmed that sensitization to this ingredient is rare. It is also non-mutagenic and has a clean track record.
  13. 13Adenosine is a purine nucleoside that your body already makes in every cell. In skincare, it acts mainly as a skin conditioning and anti-aging agent.
  14. 14The way it works is fairly well mapped out:
  15. 15Your skin has cells called fibroblasts that build collagen (the stuff that keeps skin firm and smooth). Adenosine basically flips a switch on these cells that tells them to get to work making more collagen and other proteins. These cells slow down o…
  16. 16The clinical backing is pretty solid too.
  17. 17A blind, randomized, placebo-controlled trial of 126 women aged 45-65 tested a 0.1% cream twice daily and found real improvements in crow's feet and frown lines using a precise 3D skin-mapping technique; these changes showed up by week 3 and held at…
  18. 18A later study using Adenosine-loaded dissolving microneedle patches reported gains in wrinkle depth, dermal density, elasticity, and hydration.
  19. 19On concentrations, South Korea's Ministry of Food and Drug Safety has set 0.04% as the approved functional anti-wrinkle level. You'll typically see this ingredient used somewhere in the 0.04-0.1% range since it works at low doses.
  20. 20This ingredient has been found safe for cosmetics with the data showing no irritation or sensitization.
Source · skinsort.com
02

Product index

Related product references

Product

Beauty of Joseon Calming Serum

Beauty of Joseon Calming Serum Beauty of Joseon Calming Serum ingredients explained: Camellia Sinensis Leaf Water, Artemisia Capillaris Extract, Panthenol, Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, Water,…

Source: incidecoder.comView reference →
03

Comparison edit

Read side by side