Isntree TW-Real Bifida Ampoule Versus Naturium Multi-Peptide Advanced Serum

Isntree TW-Real Bifida Ampoule Versus Naturium Multi-Peptide Advanced Serum

This barrier-repair ampoule is formulated around Bifida Ferment Lysate and Niacinamide to strengthen the skin barrier and soften the look of wrinkles.

This anti-aging serum is formulated around Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 and Ferulic Acid to soften the look of wrinkles.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

No concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Bifida Ferment Lysate

Dipropylene Glycol

Niacinamide

Glycerin

Lactobacillus/Pumpkin Ferment Extract

Lactobacillus/Soybean Ferment Extract

Rice Ferment Filtrate

Sodium Hyaluronate

Hydrolyzed Collagen

Salix Alba Bark Extract

Origanum Vulgare Leaf Extract

Cinnamomum Zeylanicum Bark Extract

Portulaca Oleracea Extract

Chamaecyparis Obtusa Leaf Extract

Beta-Glucan

Palmitoyl Oligopeptide

Copper Tripeptide-1

Acetyl Hexapeptide-8

Allantoin

Hydroxyethylcellulose

Panthenol

Carbomer

Arginine

Butylene Glycol

Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract

Illicium Verum Fruit Extract

Adenosine

1,2-Hexanediol

Disodium EDTA

Bifida Ferment Lysate, Dipropylene Glycol, Niacinamide, Glycerin, Lactobacillus/Pumpkin Ferment Extract, Lactobacillus/Soybean Ferment Extract, Rice Ferment Filtrate, Sodium Hyaluronate, Hydrolyzed Collagen, Salix Alba Bark Extract, Origanum Vulgare Leaf Extract, Cinnamomum Zeylanicum Bark Extract, Portulaca Oleracea Extract, Chamaecyparis Obtusa Leaf Extract, Beta-Glucan, Palmitoyl Oligopeptide, Copper Tripeptide-1, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Allantoin, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Panthenol, Carbomer, Arginine, Butylene Glycol, Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract, Illicium Verum Fruit Extract, Adenosine, 1,2-Hexanediol, Disodium EDTA

Water

Propanediol

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Isopentyldiol

Ethylhexyl Polyhydroxystearate

Squalane

Tetradecane

Glyceryl Stearate Citrate

Butyrospermum Parkii Butter

Polyglyceryl-3 Stearate

Helianthus Annuus Extract

Oryza Sativa Bran Extract

Mannitol

Phosphatidylcholine

Ferulic Acid

Copper Palmitoyl Heptapeptide-14

Palmitoyl Sh-Heptapeptide-12 Sp

Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract

Lactic Acid/Glycolic Acid Copolymer

Tocopherol

Pullulan

Lysolecithin

Sclerotium Gum

Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer

Dimethicone

Sodium Phytate

Diglycerin

Hydrogenated Lecithin

Silica

Cetyl Alcohol

Hydroxyacetophenone

Polysorbate 60

Sorbitan Isostearate

Sodium Hydroxide

Sodium Benzoate

Potassium Sorbate

Polyvinyl Alcohol

Decyl Glucoside

Xanthan Gum

Tocopheryl Acetate

Sodium Chloride

Citric Acid

Phenoxyethanol

Water, Propanediol, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Isopentyldiol, Ethylhexyl Polyhydroxystearate, Squalane, Tetradecane, Glyceryl Stearate Citrate, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Polyglyceryl-3 Stearate, Helianthus Annuus Extract, Oryza Sativa Bran Extract, Mannitol, Phosphatidylcholine, Ferulic Acid, Arginine, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Copper Palmitoyl Heptapeptide-14, Palmitoyl Sh-Heptapeptide-12 Sp, Hydrolyzed Collagen, Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract, Lactic Acid/Glycolic Acid Copolymer, Glycerin, Tocopherol, Pullulan, Lysolecithin, Sclerotium Gum, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Dimethicone, Sodium Phytate, Diglycerin, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Silica, Cetyl Alcohol, Hydroxyacetophenone, Polysorbate 60, Sorbitan Isostearate, Sodium Hydroxide, Sodium Benzoate, Potassium Sorbate, Polyvinyl Alcohol, Decyl Glucoside, Xanthan Gum, Tocopheryl Acetate, Sodium Chloride, Citric Acid, Phenoxyethanol

Reviews

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 (also known as Argireline) is a synthetic hexapeptide that is often called a "topical Botox alternative".

It works by mimicking how Botox relaxes muscles; it interferes with the signaling process that tells your facial muscles to contract. This can help soften expression lines like forehead wrinkles or crow's feet over time.

The comparison to Botox does have limits because the molecule is water-loving and relatively large.

Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 has a hard time absorbing deeply enough through the skin's outer barrier to actually reach the muscles.

So whether it truly works the way Botox does at a biological level is still up for debate, but early clinical outcomes are fairly encouraging.

A 12 week human study of a multi-ingredient regimen containing this ingredient saw:

While some studies have observed improvements in wrinkle appearance, it is important to note that more consistent results are seen in multi-ingredient formulations (vs just Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 alone).

Some research studies also used higher concentrations (up to 10%) while this ingredient is usually found in concentrations up to 0.005% in leave-on formulations.

Arginine is a semi-essential amino acid. This just means our bodies can product a bit on its own, but sometimes needs a little boost from food sources.

It is a part of your skin's natural moisturizing factor (NMF), or the water-loving molecules in your outermost layer of skin (stratum corneum) that keeps everything hydrated and happy.

Here's an interesting thing about Arginine: your skin converts it into urea through the Krebs-Henseleit urea cycle. Urea is one of the most effective humectants your skin naturally produces.

A clinical study showed applying 2.5% arginine hydrochloride to atopic dermatitis skin showed significant urea levels in the stratum corneum and improved moisture in just four weeks.

Arginine is also a precursor to nitric oxide; nitric oxide improves microcirculation and supports wound healing and collagen synthesis.

One study found that an amino acid complex containing Arginine reduced skin irritation, improved hydration, and accelerated skin repair in clinical / in-vivo studies.

Arginine itself is an amino acid and not a fatty acid, oil, or ester. On its own, it's not a direct food source for Malassezia, or the yeast that causes fungal acne.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Hydrolyzed Collagen is Collagen (usually sourced from fish, bovine, or porcine byproducts) that's been broken down into smaller peptides. This makes it water-soluble and easy to blend into formulations.

In a formula, it works mainly as a skin-conditioning and moisturizing agent.

The small peptides and amino acids (including Natural Moisturizing Factor components like Hydroxyproline, Serine, and Aspartic Acid) help the surface of the skin hold onto water, feel softer, and look temporarily plumper.

This ingredient also has mild film-forming and antioxidant properties with research showing the antioxidant effect is stronger the lower the molecular weight of the peptides.

It's worth being realistic here:

Topically applied Hydrolyzed Collagen conditions the upper layers of skin rather than rebuilding the structural collagen deep in your dermis (the wrinkle-and-firmness benefits people associate with Collagen mostly come from oral supplements in studies, not topicals).

However, recent lab and skin-model work on Hydrolyzed Fish Collagen has shown promising effects on cell viability and wound healing when used as an active.

Typical concentrations range from 0.2-2%, but the percentage can go much higher in rinse-off or hair products (sometimes even above 50%).

Clinical studies on this ingredient showed no irritation, sensitization, or phototoxicity.

If you are looking for vegan collagen, it usually goes by a different INCI name like hydrolyzed soy protein. Vegan collagen is derived from yeast, bacteria, or plant sources.

The results are varied.

A study from 2021 found hydrolyzed collagen increased elasticity and improved wrinkles in 1,125 participants between age 20 and 70. Another study found increased skin thickness in participants between the ages of 45 to 59.

However, It is difficult to prove that oral collagen will end up working on your skin. Many of the studies using hydrolyzed collagen also add several vitamins and nutrients into the test mixture as well.

Further studies are needed at this time.

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