Kans Polypeptide Collagen Softening Serum Versus Meditherapy Retinal Skin Booster Serum

Kans Polypeptide Collagen Softening Serum Versus Meditherapy Retinal Skin Booster Serum

This anti-aging serum is formulated around Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5 and Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7 to soften the look of wrinkles and refine skin texture.

This anti-aging serum is formulated around Niacinamide and Retinal to soften the look of wrinkles and refine skin texture.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Butylene Glycol

Propylene Glycol

Glycerin

Coco-Caprylate/Caprate

1,2-Hexanediol

Tridecyl Trimellitate

Hydroxyacetophenone

Hydrogenated Lecithin

Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer

Zea Mays Starch

Aluminum Starch Octenylsuccinate

Pentylene Glycol

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5

Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7

Acetyl Hexapeptide-8

Hexapeptide-9

Acetyl Dipeptide-1 Cetyl Ester

Myristoyl Pentapeptide-17

Decarboxy Carnosine Hcl

Hydrolyzed Collagen

Soluble Collagen

Astaxanthin

Haematococcus Pluvialis Extract

3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid

Tocopherol

Tocopheryl Acetate

Chondrus Crispus Powder

Hydroxyphenyl Propamidobenzoic Acid

Ferulic Acid

Allantoin

Beta-Carotene

Ascorbyl Palmitate

Sodium PCA

Hesperidin Methyl Chalcone

Retinol

Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Polyglyceryl-10 Oleate

Polyglyceryl-10 Stearate

Phosphatidylcholine

Propanediol

Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer

Phytosteryl/Octyldodecyl Lauroyl Glutamate

Xanthan Gum

Caprylhydroxamic Acid

PPG-26-Buteth-26

Arginine

Ethylhexylglycerin

PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil

PPG-5-Ceteth-20

Caramel

Disodium EDTA

Parfum

Water, Butylene Glycol, Propylene Glycol, Glycerin, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, 1,2-Hexanediol, Tridecyl Trimellitate, Hydroxyacetophenone, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Zea Mays Starch, Aluminum Starch Octenylsuccinate, Pentylene Glycol, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Hexapeptide-9, Acetyl Dipeptide-1 Cetyl Ester, Myristoyl Pentapeptide-17, Decarboxy Carnosine Hcl, Hydrolyzed Collagen, Soluble Collagen, Astaxanthin, Haematococcus Pluvialis Extract, 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, Tocopherol, Tocopheryl Acetate, Chondrus Crispus Powder, Hydroxyphenyl Propamidobenzoic Acid, Ferulic Acid, Allantoin, Beta-Carotene, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Sodium PCA, Hesperidin Methyl Chalcone, Retinol, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Polyglyceryl-10 Oleate, Polyglyceryl-10 Stearate, Phosphatidylcholine, Propanediol, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Phytosteryl/Octyldodecyl Lauroyl Glutamate, Xanthan Gum, Caprylhydroxamic Acid, PPG-26-Buteth-26, Arginine, Ethylhexylglycerin, PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, PPG-5-Ceteth-20, Caramel, Disodium EDTA, Parfum

Methylpropanediol

Polyglycerin-3

Niacinamide

Phenyl Trimethicone

Sodium Acrylic Acid/Ma Copolymer

Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate

Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil

Adenosine

Carbomer

Tromethamine

Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate

Sodium Hyaluronate

Cholesterol

Brassica Campestris Sterols

Retinal

Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate

Potentilla Anserina Extract

Caprylyl Glycol

Aluminum/Magnesium Hydroxide Stearate

Polyquaternium-51

Cynara Scolymus Leaf Extract

Avena Sativa Kernel Extract

Beta-Glucan

Potassium Cetyl Phosphate

Camellia Sinensis Leaf Water

Piper Methysticum Leaf/Root/Stem Extract

Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate

Centella Asiatica Extract

Ficus Carica Fruit Extract

Ceramide NP

Centella Asiatica Leaf Extract

Saccharomyces Ferment

Centella Asiatica Root Extract

Canola Oil

Myristyl Alcohol

PCA

Acetyl Hexapeptide-1

Asiaticoside

Madecassoside

Daucus Carota Sativa Seed Oil

Bifida Ferment Lysate

Lactobionic Acid

Daucus Carota Sativa Root Extract

Panthenol

Polygonum Cuspidatum Root Extract

Sucrose Distearate

Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin

Madecassic Acid

Asiatic Acid

Water, Methylpropanediol, Glycerin, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, 1,2-Hexanediol, Propanediol, Polyglycerin-3, Niacinamide, Phenyl Trimethicone, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Butylene Glycol, Sodium Acrylic Acid/Ma Copolymer, Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate, Xanthan Gum, Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Ethylhexylglycerin, Adenosine, Carbomer, Disodium EDTA, Tromethamine, Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate, Sodium Hyaluronate, Cholesterol, Tocopherol, Brassica Campestris Sterols, Retinal, Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate, Potentilla Anserina Extract, Caprylyl Glycol, Aluminum/Magnesium Hydroxide Stearate, Polyquaternium-51, Cynara Scolymus Leaf Extract, Avena Sativa Kernel Extract, Beta-Glucan, Potassium Cetyl Phosphate, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Water, Piper Methysticum Leaf/Root/Stem Extract, Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Centella Asiatica Extract, Ficus Carica Fruit Extract, Ceramide NP, Centella Asiatica Leaf Extract, Saccharomyces Ferment, Centella Asiatica Root Extract, Canola Oil, Myristyl Alcohol, PCA, Acetyl Hexapeptide-1, Asiaticoside, Madecassoside, Daucus Carota Sativa Seed Oil, Bifida Ferment Lysate, Lactobionic Acid, Daucus Carota Sativa Root Extract, Tocopheryl Acetate, Beta-Carotene, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Panthenol, Polygonum Cuspidatum Root Extract, Sucrose Distearate, Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin, Madecassic Acid, Asiatic Acid

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Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.

It is a:

Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin

Emollient, helping to soften skin

Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas

Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives

Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer is a synthetically created polymer. It's used as a film-forming agent and used to thicken the consistency of products.

Think of it as a supportive ingredient that helps your gel-creams feel silky, "cloud cream-like", and spread evenly without being greasy.

The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel evaluated it (along with 22 other acryloyldimethyltaurate polymers) and concluded it's:

Due to its large molecular size, it sits on the surface of skin rather than penetrating it.

Beta-Carotene is a fat-soluble carotenoid pigment. It is the thing responsible for giving carrots, sweet potatoes, apricots, and other orange-yellow produce their color.

It is a potent antioxidant that neutralizes free radicals (mainly reactive oxygen species) that come at your skin from both the environment and internal processes.

When applied topically, beta-carotene accumulates in your outermost layer of skin and acts as a first-line defense against photo-oxidative stress.

Research has established that carotenoids like beta-carotene boosts your skin's innate resistance against UVB induced erythema. Please know this does not mean beta-carotene can replace your sunscreen.

Newer studies show it can also help inhibit molecular markers of oxidative stress like MMP-1 and MMP-9, enzymes that break down collagen.

In some cases, it can be used as a cosmetic colorant as well (INCI name: CI 40800).

Beta-carotene pairs well with other antioxidants like Vitamin E and Vitamin C for a synergistic effect.

Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:

Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.

Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.

Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.

In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.

While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.

Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.

This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.

This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.

Disodium EDTA is a chelating agent. It grabs onto and deactivates metal ions that sneak into your products from water, packaging, or air.

This ingredient mainly works behind the scenes and helps with:

On top of that, this ingredient can counteract the effects of hard water by binding to the minerals in it.

One thing worth knowing is that Disodium EDTA has been shown to be a mild penetration enhancer. It can help other ingredients absorb into skin more effectively which can be a double-edged sword (great for actives, but can also make the active too strong if you have sensitive skin).

Clinical patch testing showed no significant skin irritation at typical use concentrations and minimal dermal absorption.

You'll most likely see this ingredient near the end of an ingredient list. It's typically found in concentrations less than 1%.

Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:

The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.

Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil is a plant oil derived from the seeds of a sunflower.

It is rich in fatty acids, primarily linoleic acid and oleic acid. This gives it emollient and skin conditioning properties.

The reason this ingredient is so effective is because it forms a thin film on the skin that reduces transepidermal water loss (TEWL) while supplying linoleic acid to the stratum corneum to improve barrier strength.

The high linoleic acid content is particularly noteworthy for acne-prone skin.

Research suggests that acne-prone skin tends to be deficient in linoleic acid in sebum. Topical application may help replenish this to support a healthier follicular environment and less comedone-promoting sebum.

One randomized study found sunflower seed oil preserved skin barrier integrity in adult volunteers with and without atopic dermatitis (outperforming olive oil).

This ingredient is well-studied, gentle, and an effective emollient suitable for most skin types.

On fungal acne: This ingredient may not be Fungal acne (Malassezia folliculitis) safe. This is because it contains fatty acids with carbon chain lengths in the C11-C24 range.

Hydrogenated Lecithin is a more stable version of lecithin.

It's made by taking lecithin (a phospholipid commonly found in soybeans and egg yolks) and hydrogenating it. This just means the unsaturated fatty acids are turned into saturated ones so they don't go bad as easily.

This ingredient is an emollient, emulsifier, and penetration enhancer. As an emollient, it helps soften and hydrate skin by trapping moisture within. As an emulsifier, it prevents oil and water ingredients from separating.

Hydrogenated Lecithin can form tiny spherical structures made of phospholipid bilayers called liposomes. These liposomes are able to capture compounds inside their structure and deliver them through the skin barrier.

Because phospholipids are a natural component of our cell membranes, this ingredient is inherently compatible with skin.

A 2021 study found lecithin-based surfactants were less harsh and more tolerable comared to Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS).

Propanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.

It’s often used to:

Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.

Tocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.

You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.

Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.

It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.

This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.

This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.

In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.

Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.

Tocopheryl Acetate is a stable, shelf-friendly form of vitamin E.

Formulators love it because plain vitamin E oxidizes quickly once it hits air. This acetate version stays stable and resists going off, helping to extend a product's shelf life.

It's actually inactive on its own and works like a slow-release "storage" form; the enzymes in your skin called esterases gradually convert it into active vitamin E over time.

One in vivo study showed 5% of the acetate in the living layer of the epidermis converted to vitamin E after 5 days of application. This study also found the skin gained protection against UV damage even though the conversion was slow and small.

Once converted, vitamin E acts as a skin's main fat-soluble antioxidant that fights free radicals to protect skin from damage.

Topical vitamin E generally boosts the skin's photoprotection, and it reduced UV-damage in animal models.

Overall, it has a pretty solid safety profile and has been found to be non-irritating and non-comedogenic. Allergic reactions may happen but stay rare due to how widely the ingredient gets used.

The concentration will vary depending on the formula; industry data shows 0.1% in baby lotions, 3% in lipsticks, and 5% in foot powders. You can also find this ingredient at 100% in a pure vitamin E oil.

Most leave-on skincare keeps it at the lower end, often between 0.5-1%.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

Xanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.

On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.

Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.

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