Kans Polypeptide Collagen Softening Serum Versus Shiseido Ultimune Power Infusing Serum Concentrate

Kans Polypeptide Collagen Softening Serum Versus Shiseido Ultimune Power Infusing Serum Concentrate

This anti-aging serum is formulated around Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5 and Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7 to soften the look of wrinkles and refine skin texture.

This barrier-repair serum is formulated around Trehalose to strengthen the skin barrier and soften the look of wrinkles.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Butylene Glycol

Propylene Glycol

Glycerin

Coco-Caprylate/Caprate

1,2-Hexanediol

Tridecyl Trimellitate

Hydroxyacetophenone

Hydrogenated Lecithin

Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer

Zea Mays Starch

Aluminum Starch Octenylsuccinate

Pentylene Glycol

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5

Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7

Acetyl Hexapeptide-8

Hexapeptide-9

Acetyl Dipeptide-1 Cetyl Ester

Myristoyl Pentapeptide-17

Decarboxy Carnosine Hcl

Hydrolyzed Collagen

Soluble Collagen

Astaxanthin

Haematococcus Pluvialis Extract

3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid

Tocopherol

Tocopheryl Acetate

Chondrus Crispus Powder

Hydroxyphenyl Propamidobenzoic Acid

Ferulic Acid

Allantoin

Beta-Carotene

Ascorbyl Palmitate

Sodium PCA

Hesperidin Methyl Chalcone

Retinol

Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Polyglyceryl-10 Oleate

Polyglyceryl-10 Stearate

Phosphatidylcholine

Propanediol

Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer

Phytosteryl/Octyldodecyl Lauroyl Glutamate

Xanthan Gum

Caprylhydroxamic Acid

PPG-26-Buteth-26

Arginine

Ethylhexylglycerin

PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil

PPG-5-Ceteth-20

Caramel

Disodium EDTA

Parfum

Water, Butylene Glycol, Propylene Glycol, Glycerin, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, 1,2-Hexanediol, Tridecyl Trimellitate, Hydroxyacetophenone, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Zea Mays Starch, Aluminum Starch Octenylsuccinate, Pentylene Glycol, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Hexapeptide-9, Acetyl Dipeptide-1 Cetyl Ester, Myristoyl Pentapeptide-17, Decarboxy Carnosine Hcl, Hydrolyzed Collagen, Soluble Collagen, Astaxanthin, Haematococcus Pluvialis Extract, 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, Tocopherol, Tocopheryl Acetate, Chondrus Crispus Powder, Hydroxyphenyl Propamidobenzoic Acid, Ferulic Acid, Allantoin, Beta-Carotene, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Sodium PCA, Hesperidin Methyl Chalcone, Retinol, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Polyglyceryl-10 Oleate, Polyglyceryl-10 Stearate, Phosphatidylcholine, Propanediol, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Phytosteryl/Octyldodecyl Lauroyl Glutamate, Xanthan Gum, Caprylhydroxamic Acid, PPG-26-Buteth-26, Arginine, Ethylhexylglycerin, PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, PPG-5-Ceteth-20, Caramel, Disodium EDTA, Parfum

Alcohol Denat.

PEG/PPG-17/4 Dimethyl Ether

Triethylhexanoin

Cyclohexasiloxane

Dimethicone

Phenoxyethanol

Trehalose

Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Beheneth-25 Methacrylate Crosspolymer

PEG-14m

PEG/PPG-14/7 Dimethyl Ether

Rosa Damascena Flower Water

Potassium Hydroxide

Silica

Isoceteth-10

Linalool

Lauryl Betaine

Ginkgo Biloba Leaf Extract

Geraniol

Citronellol

Origanum Majorana Leaf Extract

Nelumbo Nucifera Germ Extract

Alcohol

Sodium Carboxymethyl Beta-Glucan

BHT

Thymus Serpyllum Extract

Perilla Ocymoides Leaf Extract

Sodium Bicarbonate

Iris Florentina Root Extract

Sodium Benzoate

Ganoderma Lucidum Stem Extract

Water, Alcohol Denat., Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, PEG/PPG-17/4 Dimethyl Ether, Triethylhexanoin, Cyclohexasiloxane, Dimethicone, Phenoxyethanol, Trehalose, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Beheneth-25 Methacrylate Crosspolymer, PEG-14m, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Tocopheryl Acetate, PEG/PPG-14/7 Dimethyl Ether, Rosa Damascena Flower Water, Parfum, Disodium EDTA, Potassium Hydroxide, Silica, Isoceteth-10, Linalool, Lauryl Betaine, Ginkgo Biloba Leaf Extract, Geraniol, Citronellol, Origanum Majorana Leaf Extract, Nelumbo Nucifera Germ Extract, Alcohol, Sodium Carboxymethyl Beta-Glucan, BHT, Thymus Serpyllum Extract, Perilla Ocymoides Leaf Extract, Sodium Bicarbonate, Iris Florentina Root Extract, Sodium Benzoate, Ganoderma Lucidum Stem Extract

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Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer is a synthetic polymer. It is used to thicken, emulsify, and improve the texture of products.

As an emulsifier, it helps stabilize oil-in-water emulsions to give products an elegant feel when applied.

It can also form a thin protective film on skin. One study found that a formula using this polymer helped slow down how quickly other ingredients (like DEET) were absorbed through skin.

A 2024 study of over 1,300 patients confirmed that sensitization to this ingredient is rare. It is also non-mutagenic and has a clean track record.

Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:

Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.

Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.

Disodium EDTA is a chelating agent. It grabs onto and deactivates metal ions that sneak into your products from water, packaging, or air.

This ingredient mainly works behind the scenes and helps with:

On top of that, this ingredient can counteract the effects of hard water by binding to the minerals in it.

One thing worth knowing is that Disodium EDTA has been shown to be a mild penetration enhancer. It can help other ingredients absorb into skin more effectively which can be a double-edged sword (great for actives, but can also make the active too strong if you have sensitive skin).

Clinical patch testing showed no significant skin irritation at typical use concentrations and minimal dermal absorption.

You'll most likely see this ingredient near the end of an ingredient list. It's typically found in concentrations less than 1%.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Parfum is a catch-all term for an ingredient or more that is used to give a scent to products.

Also called "fragrance", this ingredient can be a blend of hundreds of chemicals or plant oils. This means every product with "fragrance" or "parfum" in the ingredients list is a different mixture.

For instance, Habanolide is a proprietary trade name for a specific aroma chemical. When used as a fragrance ingredient in cosmetics, most aroma chemicals fall under the broad labeling category of “FRAGRANCE” or “PARFUM” according to EU and US regulations.

The term 'parfum' or 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term.

For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance by INCI standards.

One example is Calendula flower extract. Calendula is an essential oil that still imparts a scent or 'fragrance'.

Depending on the blend, the ingredients in the mixture can cause allergies and sensitivities on the skin. Some ingredients that are known EU allergens include linalool and citronellol.

Parfum can also be used to mask or cover an unpleasant scent.

The bottom line is: not all fragrances/parfum/ingredients are created equally. If you are worried about fragrances, we recommend taking a closer look at an ingredient. And of course, we always recommend speaking with a professional.

Tocopheryl Acetate is a stable, shelf-friendly form of vitamin E.

Formulators love it because plain vitamin E oxidizes quickly once it hits air. This acetate version stays stable and resists going off, helping to extend a product's shelf life.

It's actually inactive on its own and works like a slow-release "storage" form; the enzymes in your skin called esterases gradually convert it into active vitamin E over time.

One in vivo study showed 5% of the acetate in the living layer of the epidermis converted to vitamin E after 5 days of application. This study also found the skin gained protection against UV damage even though the conversion was slow and small.

Once converted, vitamin E acts as a skin's main fat-soluble antioxidant that fights free radicals to protect skin from damage.

Topical vitamin E generally boosts the skin's photoprotection, and it reduced UV-damage in animal models.

This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.

Overall, it has a pretty solid safety profile and has been found to be non-irritating and non-comedogenic. Allergic reactions may happen but stay rare due to how widely the ingredient gets used.

The concentration will vary depending on the formula; industry data shows 0.1% in baby lotions, 3% in lipsticks, and 5% in foot powders. You can also find this ingredient at 100% in a pure vitamin E oil.

Most leave-on skincare keeps it at the lower end, often between 0.5-1%.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

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