Kérastase Nutritive 8H Magic Night Serum Hydrating Treatment Versus Oribe Hair Alchemy Fortifying Treatment Serum

Kérastase Nutritive 8H Magic Night Serum Hydrating Treatment Versus Oribe Hair Alchemy Fortifying Treatment Serum

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Dimethicone

C13-16 Isoalkane

Niacinamide

Glycerin

Polyacrylamide

Phenoxyethanol

C13-14 Isoparaffin

Laureth-7

Panthenol

Ascorbyl Glucoside

Butylene Glycol

Linalool

Hydroxycitronellal

Benzyl Salicylate

Benzyl Alcohol

Hexyl Cinnamal

Citronellol

Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein

Alpha-Isomethyl Ionone

Coumarin

Hydrolyzed Corn Protein

Hydrolyzed Soy Protein

Limonene

Iris Florentina Root Extract

Citric Acid

CI 19140

CI 14700

Parfum

Water, Dimethicone, C13-16 Isoalkane, Niacinamide, Glycerin, Polyacrylamide, Phenoxyethanol, C13-14 Isoparaffin, Laureth-7, Panthenol, Ascorbyl Glucoside, Butylene Glycol, Linalool, Hydroxycitronellal, Benzyl Salicylate, Benzyl Alcohol, Hexyl Cinnamal, Citronellol, Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Alpha-Isomethyl Ionone, Coumarin, Hydrolyzed Corn Protein, Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Limonene, Iris Florentina Root Extract, Citric Acid, CI 19140, CI 14700, Parfum

Pentylene Glycol

Salvia Hispanica Seed Extract

PPG-3 Benzyl Ether Myristate

Cetyl Alcohol

Dimethiconol Meadowfoamate

Brassica Alcohol

Polyquaternium-37

Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride

Behentrimonium Chloride

Caprylyl Methicone

Brassicyl Valinate Esylate

Chlorphenesin

Sodium Benzoate

Calcium Gluconate

Trehalose

Xylitol

Hydrolyzed Rice Protein

Polyquaternium-73

Caprylyl/Capryl Glucoside

Isopropyl Alcohol

Oryza Sativa Bran Extract

Panthenyl Hydroxypropyl Steardimonium Chloride

Quaternium-95

Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate

Ethyl Linoleate

Ceramide NP

Ethyl Oleate

Sorbitan Oleate

Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate

Sodium PCA

Cinnamidopropyltrimonium Chloride

Arctium Lappa Root Extract

Hedera Helix Extract

Sodium Lactate

Trigonella Foenum-Graecum Seed Extract

Propanediol

Sodium Phosphate

Lactobacillus/Arundinaria Gigantea Leaf Ferment Filtrate

Arginine

Helianthus Annuus Extract

Aspartic Acid

PCA

Litchi Chinensis Fruit Extract

Citrullus Lanatus Seed Oil

Caprylic Acid

Galactoarabinan

Tocopherol

Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract

Leontopodium Alpinum Extract

Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein Pg-Propyl Silanetriol

Glycine

Alanine

Potassium Sorbate

Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate

Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract

Sodium Hyaluronate

Serine

Valine

Ethylhexylglycerin

Gossypium Herbaceum Seed Extract

Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate

Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer

Sodium Hydroxide

Isoleucine

Proline

Threonine

Nigella Sativa Seed Extract

Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate

Histidine

Phenylalanine

Caprylyl Glycol

Disodium EDTA

Potassium Hydroxide

Citral

Water, Pentylene Glycol, Dimethicone, Salvia Hispanica Seed Extract, PPG-3 Benzyl Ether Myristate, Cetyl Alcohol, Dimethiconol Meadowfoamate, Brassica Alcohol, Parfum, Polyquaternium-37, Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride, Behentrimonium Chloride, Caprylyl Methicone, Benzyl Alcohol, Brassicyl Valinate Esylate, Glycerin, Panthenol, Chlorphenesin, Sodium Benzoate, Calcium Gluconate, Trehalose, Xylitol, Butylene Glycol, Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Citric Acid, Polyquaternium-73, Caprylyl/Capryl Glucoside, Isopropyl Alcohol, Oryza Sativa Bran Extract, Panthenyl Hydroxypropyl Steardimonium Chloride, Quaternium-95, Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate, Ethyl Linoleate, Ceramide NP, Ethyl Oleate, Sorbitan Oleate, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, Sodium PCA, Cinnamidopropyltrimonium Chloride, Arctium Lappa Root Extract, Hedera Helix Extract, Sodium Lactate, Trigonella Foenum-Graecum Seed Extract, Propanediol, Sodium Phosphate, Lactobacillus/Arundinaria Gigantea Leaf Ferment Filtrate, Arginine, Helianthus Annuus Extract, Aspartic Acid, PCA, Litchi Chinensis Fruit Extract, Citrullus Lanatus Seed Oil, Phenoxyethanol, Caprylic Acid, Galactoarabinan, Tocopherol, Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract, Leontopodium Alpinum Extract, Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein Pg-Propyl Silanetriol, Glycine, Alanine, Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, Serine, Valine, Ethylhexylglycerin, Gossypium Herbaceum Seed Extract, Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate, Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer, Sodium Hydroxide, Isoleucine, Proline, Threonine, Nigella Sativa Seed Extract, Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate, Histidine, Phenylalanine, Caprylyl Glycol, Disodium EDTA, Potassium Hydroxide, Limonene, Hexyl Cinnamal, Citral, Linalool

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Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Benzyl Alcohol is an aromatic alcohol with several roles: it's a preservative, solvent, and mild fragrance component with a floral scent.

This ingredient has been deemed safe for use in cosmetic formulations at concentrations up to 5%, and up to 10% in hair dyes. You'll typically see 0.5-2% in most rinse-off or leave-on products.

As a preservative, it works by disrupting the membrane of microbial proteins. This helps keep bacteria and fungi from growing in your products.

The sensitization picture is actually quite assuring as well:of nearly 71,000 patients patch tested with benzyl alcohol, only 0.21% showed a positive reaction with most of them being weakly positive.

This led researchers to conclude that benzyl alcohol cannot be regarded as a significant contact allergen.

It is worth noting this ingredient is classified as one of the EU's regulated fragrance allergens and restricted to 1% in finished products.

Labels must also declare it in concentrations above 0.001% in leave-on products and 0.01% in rinse-off products.

At concentrations around 5%, localized redness and itching can appear as a direct irritant response and not as a true allergic reaction.

Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:

Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.

Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.

Citric Acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) naturally found in citrus fruits like oranges, lemons, and limes.

Like other AHAs, citric acid can exfoliate skin by breaking down the bonds that hold dead skin cells together. This helps reveal smoother and brighter skin underneath.

However, this exfoliating effect only happens at high concentrations (20%) which can be hard to find in cosmetic products.

Due to this, citric acid is usually included in small amounts as a pH adjuster. This helps keep products slightly more acidic and compatible with skin's natural pH.

In skincare formulas, citric acid can:

While it can provide some skin benefits, research shows lactic acid and glycolic acid are generally more effective and less irritating exfoliants.

Most citric acid used in skincare today is made by fermenting sugars (usually from molasses). This synthetic version is identical to the natural citrus form but easier to stabilize and use in formulations.

Rosacea skin has a lower threshold for acids generally, with 62.5% of rosacea subjects in one study reacting to lactic acid in a sting test. This is why we mark citric acid as a potential rosacea trigger.

However, this ingredient shows up as a pH adjuster or chelator at roughly 0.1-1% in many products. These low levels are unlikely to be an issue for rosacea skin and becomes a potential trigger at exfoliating concentrations (20%). Because everybody's skin is unique, we recommend a patch test if you are unsure.

Dimethicone is a type of synthetic silicone created from natural materials such as quartz. It is also known as polydimethylsiloxane.

What it does:

Dimethicone comes in different viscosities:

Depending on the viscosity, dimethicone has different properties.

Ingredients lists don't always show which type is used, so we recommend reaching out to the brand if you have questions about the viscosity.

This ingredient is unlikely to cause irritation because it does not get absorbed into skin. However, people with silicone allergies should be careful about using this ingredient.

Note: Dimethicone may contribute to pilling. This is because it is not oil or water soluble, so pilling may occur when layered with products. When mixed with heavy oils in a formula, the outcome is also quite greasy.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Hexyl Cinnamal is a fragrance ingredient with a similar scent to jasmine. It can be naturally found in chamomile essential oil.

This ingredient is a known EU allergen and may sensitize the skin. The EU requires this ingredient to be listed separately on an ingredients list.

Hexyl Cinnamal is not water soluble but is soluble in oils.

Limonene is a fragrance that adds scent and taste to a formulation.

It's found in the peel oil of citrus fruits and other plants such as lavender and eucalyptus. The scent of limonene is generally described as "sweet citrus".

Limonene acts as an antioxidant, meaning it helps neutralize free radicals.

When exposed to air, oxidized limonene may sensitize the skin. Because of this, limonene is often avoided by people with sensitive skin.

The term 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term. For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance.

Linalool is a fragrance and helps add scent to products. It's derived from common plants such as cinnamon, mint, citrus, and lavender.

Like Limonene, this ingredient oxidizes when exposed to air. Oxidized linalool can cause allergies and skin sensitivity.

This ingredient has a scent that is floral, spicy tropical, and citrus-like.

Panthenol is a common ingredient that helps hydrate and soothe the skin. It is found naturally in our skin and hair.

There are two forms of panthenol: D and L.

D-panthenol is also known as dexpanthenol. Most cosmetics use dexpanthenol or a mixture of D and L-panthenol.

Panthenol is famous due to its ability to go deeper into the skin's layers. Using this ingredient has numerous pros (and no cons):

Like hyaluronic acid, panthenol is a humectant. Humectants are able to bind and hold large amounts of water to keep skin hydrated.

This ingredient works well for wound healing. It works by increasing tissue in the wound and helps close open wounds.

Once oxidized, panthenol converts to pantothenic acid. Panthothenic acid is found in all living cells.

This ingredient is also referred to as pro-vitamin B5.

Parfum is a catch-all term for an ingredient or more that is used to give a scent to products.

Also called "fragrance", this ingredient can be a blend of hundreds of chemicals or plant oils. This means every product with "fragrance" or "parfum" in the ingredients list is a different mixture.

For instance, Habanolide is a proprietary trade name for a specific aroma chemical. When used as a fragrance ingredient in cosmetics, most aroma chemicals fall under the broad labeling category of “FRAGRANCE” or “PARFUM” according to EU and US regulations.

The term 'parfum' or 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term.

For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance by INCI standards.

One example is Calendula flower extract. Calendula is an essential oil that still imparts a scent or 'fragrance'.

Depending on the blend, the ingredients in the mixture can cause allergies and sensitivities on the skin. Some ingredients that are known EU allergens include linalool and citronellol.

Parfum can also be used to mask or cover an unpleasant scent.

The bottom line is: not all fragrances/parfum/ingredients are created equally. If you are worried about fragrances, we recommend taking a closer look at an ingredient. And of course, we always recommend speaking with a professional.

Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).

It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.

On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.

Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).

You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.

Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.

Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.

Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

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