Skin science article
Kiehl's Ferulic Brew Antioxidant Facial Treatment with Lactic Acid Versus Beauty of Joseon Ginseng Essence Water
Kiehl's Ferulic Brew Antioxidant Facial Treatment with Lactic Acid Versus Beauty of Joseon Ginseng Essence Water This smoothing essence is formulated around Lactic Acid and Ferulic Acid to refine skin texture and brighten dull-looking skin. This calming essenc
Kiehl's Ferulic Brew Antioxidant Facial Treatment with Lactic Acid Versus Beauty of Joseon Ginseng Essence Water
This smoothing essence is formulated around Lactic Acid and Ferulic Acid to refine skin texture and brighten dull-looking skin.
This calming essence is formulated around Panax Ginseng Root Water and Niacinamide to calm redness and hydrate skin.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
No concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Arginine
Saccharomyces/Rice Ferment Filtrate
Dicaprylyl Ether
Glycerin
Pentylene Glycol
Lactic Acid
Propanediol
Squalane
Butylene Glycol
Sodium Chloride
Tocopherol
Ascorbyl Glucoside
Salicylic Acid
Ferulic Acid
Caramel
Adenosine
Lavandula Hybrida Oil
Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Cupressus Sempervirens Leaf/Nut/Stem Oil
Anthemis Nobilis Flower Oil
Linalool
Pelargonium Graveolens Flower Oil
Brassica Campestris Extract
Brassica Napus Extract
Brassica Campestris Sprout Extract
Mentha Piperita Oil
Sodium Hyaluronate
Citronellol
Geraniol
Limonene
Origanum Majorana Leaf Oil
Water, Arginine, Saccharomyces/Rice Ferment Filtrate, Dicaprylyl Ether, Glycerin, Pentylene Glycol, Lactic Acid, Propanediol, Squalane, Butylene Glycol, Sodium Chloride, Tocopherol, Ascorbyl Glucoside, Salicylic Acid, Ferulic Acid, Caramel, Adenosine, Lavandula Hybrida Oil, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Cupressus Sempervirens Leaf/Nut/Stem Oil, Anthemis Nobilis Flower Oil, Linalool, Pelargonium Graveolens Flower Oil, Brassica Campestris Extract, Brassica Napus Extract, Brassica Campestris Sprout Extract, Mentha Piperita Oil, Sodium Hyaluronate, Citronellol, Geraniol, Limonene, Origanum Majorana Leaf Oil
Panax Ginseng Root Water
Niacinamide
1,2-Hexanediol
Hydroxyacetophenone
Glyceryl Glucoside
Xanthan Gum
Panthenol
Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate
Allantoin
Panax Ginseng Callus Culture Extract
Theobroma Cacao Extract
Dextrin
Glucose
Panax Ginseng Root Extract
Panax Ginseng Berry Extract
Lactobacillus/Panax Ginseng Root Extract Ferment Filtrate
Ethylhexylglycerin
Disodium EDTA
Panax Ginseng Root Water, Butylene Glycol, Glycerin, Propanediol, Niacinamide, 1,2-Hexanediol, Water, Hydroxyacetophenone, Glyceryl Glucoside, Xanthan Gum, Panthenol, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Allantoin, Adenosine, Panax Ginseng Callus Culture Extract, Theobroma Cacao Extract, Dextrin, Glucose, Panax Ginseng Root Extract, Panax Ginseng Berry Extract, Lactobacillus/Panax Ginseng Root Extract Ferment Filtrate, Sodium Hyaluronate, Ethylhexylglycerin, Disodium EDTA
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Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Adenosine is a purine nucleoside that your body already makes in every cell. In skincare, it acts mainly as a skin conditioning and anti-aging agent.
The way it works is fairly well mapped out:
Your skin has cells called fibroblasts that build collagen (the stuff that keeps skin firm and smooth). Adenosine basically flips a switch on these cells that tells them to get to work making more collagen and other proteins. These cells slow down on their own as skin ages, so Adenosine helps give them a little nudge to keep going.
The clinical backing is pretty solid too.
A blind, randomized, placebo-controlled trial of 126 women aged 45-65 tested a 0.1% cream twice daily and found real improvements in crow's feet and frown lines using a precise 3D skin-mapping technique; these changes showed up by week 3 and held at 2 months.
A later study using Adenosine-loaded dissolving microneedle patches reported gains in wrinkle depth, dermal density, elasticity, and hydration.
On concentrations, South Korea's Ministry of Food and Drug Safety has set 0.04% as the approved functional anti-wrinkle level. You'll typically see this ingredient used somewhere in the 0.04-0.1% range since it works at low doses.
This ingredient has been found safe for cosmetics with the data showing no irritation or sensitization.
Overall, this is a great ingredient for any anti-aging routine and has no photosensitizing effect, so it suits both AM and PM use.
Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Propanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.
It’s often used to:
Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.
Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.
In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.
Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:
Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.
Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.
You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!