Kiehl's Micro-Dose Anti-Aging Retinol Serum with Ceramides and Peptide Versus AHC Beauty The Real Eye Cream for Face

Kiehl's Micro-Dose Anti-Aging Retinol Serum with Ceramides and Peptide Versus AHC Beauty The Real Eye Cream for Face

This anti-aging serum is formulated around Niacinamide and Ceramide NP to soften the look of wrinkles and refine skin texture.

This anti-aging eye moisturizer is formulated around Oryza Sativa Extract and Bifida Ferment Lysate to soften the look of wrinkles and hydrate skin.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Glycerin

Butylene Glycol

Pentylene Glycol

Niacinamide

Cetyl Alcohol

Isohexadecane

Isononyl Isononanoate

Diisopropyl Sebacate

2-Oleamido-1,3-Octadecanediol

4-T-Butylcyclohexanol

Acetyl Dipeptide-1 Cetyl Ester

Adenosine

Ceramide NP

Hydroxypalmitoyl Sphinganine

Lauroyl Lysine

Octyldodecanol

Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate

Sodium Chloride

Sodium Hyaluronate

Sodium Hydroxide

Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate

Retinol

Tocopherol

Dicaprylyl Ether

Ammonium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate

Behenyl Alcohol

Caprylyl Glycol

Carbomer

Cetearyl Alcohol

Cetearyl Glucoside

Glycine Soja Oil

Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil

Hydroxyethylcellulose

Lecithin

Phenethyl Alcohol

Poloxamer 188

Polycaprolactone

Sorbitan Laurate

Steareth-100

CI 40800

Chlorphenesin

Phenoxyethanol

Water, Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, Pentylene Glycol, Niacinamide, Cetyl Alcohol, Isohexadecane, Isononyl Isononanoate, Diisopropyl Sebacate, 2-Oleamido-1,3-Octadecanediol, 4-T-Butylcyclohexanol, Acetyl Dipeptide-1 Cetyl Ester, Adenosine, Ceramide NP, Hydroxypalmitoyl Sphinganine, Lauroyl Lysine, Octyldodecanol, Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate, Sodium Chloride, Sodium Hyaluronate, Sodium Hydroxide, Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate, Retinol, Tocopherol, Dicaprylyl Ether, Ammonium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate, Behenyl Alcohol, Caprylyl Glycol, Carbomer, Cetearyl Alcohol, Cetearyl Glucoside, Glycine Soja Oil, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Lecithin, Phenethyl Alcohol, Poloxamer 188, Polycaprolactone, Sorbitan Laurate, Steareth-100, CI 40800, Chlorphenesin, Phenoxyethanol

Oryza Sativa Extract

Methylpropanediol

Bifida Ferment Lysate

Dimethicone

Snail Secretion Filtrate

Cyclopentasiloxane

Butyrospermum Parkii Butter

Dioscorea Japonica Root Extract

Hydrogenated Polydecene

Tremella Fuciformis Extract

Arctium Lappa Root Extract

Piper Methysticum Leaf/Root/Stem Extract

Rose Extract

Centella Asiatica Extract

Houttuynia Cordata Extract

Collagen Extract

Pseudoalteromonas Exopolysaccharides

Anastatica Hierochuntica Extract

Phaseolus Lunatus Seed Extract

Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil

Epilobium Angustifolium Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract

Nymphaea Alba Flower Extract

Lepidium Meyenii Root Extract

Salicornia Herbacea Extract

Hydrogenated Lecithin

Oenothera Biennis Oil

Borago Officinalis Seed Oil

Centaurea Cyanus Flower Water

Polysorbate 60

Phytosteryl/Behenyl/Octyldodecyl Lauroyl Glutamate

Cetearyl Olivate

Sorbitan Olivate

Polyacrylate-13

Hydroxyacetophenone

Polyglyceryl-2 Stearate

C12-16 Alcohols

Polysorbate 20

Polyisobutene

Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer

Glyceryl Stearate

Stearyl Alcohol

1,2-Hexanediol

Tranexamic Acid

Sodium Polyacrylate

Palmitic Acid

Ethylhexylglycerin

Tocopheryl Acetate

Polyquaternium-51

Glycosyl Trehalose

Xanthan Gum

Disodium Stearoyl Glutamate

Hydrogenated Starch Hydrolysate

Raffinose

Biosaccharide Gum-1

Disodium EDTA

Panthenol

Dipropylene Glycol

Saccharomyces Ferment Filtrate

Folic Acid

Sodium Palmitoyl Proline

Cholesterol

Cetyl Hydroxyethylcellulose

Acetic Acid

Triethylhexanoin

Acrylates Copolymer

Lactic Acid

Alcohol Denat.

Rutin

Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate

Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1

Hydrolyzed Lupine Protein

Helichrysum Italicum Flower Water

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Phospholipids

Hydrogenated Phosphatidylcholine

Tromethamine

Copper Tripeptide-1

Magnesium PCA

Sodium Lactate

Isostearyl Isostearate

Phytosphingosine

Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate

1-Methylhydantoin-2-Imide

Glycine

Glucosamine Hcl

Glutamic Acid

Glutamine

Disodium Phosphate

Lysine

Leucine

Magnesium Citrate

Maltodextrin

Methionine

Valine

Serine

Sucrose

Cysteine

Citrulline

Sea Salt

Asparagine

Aspartic Acid

Alanine

Arginine

Ammonia

Ornithine

Urea

Uric Acid

Isoleucine

Calcium Chloride

Taurine

Tyrosine

Threonine

Tryptophan

Phenylalanine

Formic Acid

Potassium Hydroxide

Proline

Histidine

Ceramide Ng

Inulin Lauryl Carbamate

Tocopheryl Linoleate

Hydroxydecyl Ubiquinone

Ceramide AP

Vp/Polycarbamyl Polyglycol Ester

Saccharide Hydrolysate

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5

Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein

Hydrolyzed Sesame Protein Pg-Propyl Methylsilanediol

Ascorbic Acid Polypeptide

Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4

Potassium Cetyl Phosphate

Acetyl Hexapeptide-8

Hydrolyzed Glycosaminoglycans

Acetyl Tripeptide-1

Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12

Ceramide EOP

Potassium Sorbate

Oryza Sativa Extract, Water, Glycerin, Methylpropanediol, Bifida Ferment Lysate, Dimethicone, Snail Secretion Filtrate, Cyclopentasiloxane, Niacinamide, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Butylene Glycol, Dioscorea Japonica Root Extract, Hydrogenated Polydecene, Tremella Fuciformis Extract, Arctium Lappa Root Extract, Piper Methysticum Leaf/Root/Stem Extract, Rose Extract, Centella Asiatica Extract, Houttuynia Cordata Extract, Collagen Extract, Pseudoalteromonas Exopolysaccharides, Anastatica Hierochuntica Extract, Phaseolus Lunatus Seed Extract, Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil, Epilobium Angustifolium Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract, Nymphaea Alba Flower Extract, Lepidium Meyenii Root Extract, Salicornia Herbacea Extract, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Sodium Hyaluronate, Oenothera Biennis Oil, Borago Officinalis Seed Oil, Centaurea Cyanus Flower Water, Polysorbate 60, Phytosteryl/Behenyl/Octyldodecyl Lauroyl Glutamate, Cetearyl Olivate, Sorbitan Olivate, Polyacrylate-13, Hydroxyacetophenone, Polyglyceryl-2 Stearate, C12-16 Alcohols, Polysorbate 20, Polyisobutene, Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Cetyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate, Stearyl Alcohol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Tranexamic Acid, Sodium Polyacrylate, Palmitic Acid, Ethylhexylglycerin, Tocopheryl Acetate, Polyquaternium-51, Glycosyl Trehalose, Xanthan Gum, Disodium Stearoyl Glutamate, Hydrogenated Starch Hydrolysate, Raffinose, Biosaccharide Gum-1, Adenosine, Lecithin, Disodium EDTA, Panthenol, Dipropylene Glycol, Ceramide NP, Saccharomyces Ferment Filtrate, Folic Acid, Sodium Palmitoyl Proline, Cholesterol, Cetyl Hydroxyethylcellulose, Acetic Acid, Triethylhexanoin, Acrylates Copolymer, Lactic Acid, Alcohol Denat., Rutin, Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Hydrolyzed Lupine Protein, Helichrysum Italicum Flower Water, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Sorbitan Laurate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Phospholipids, Hydrogenated Phosphatidylcholine, Tromethamine, Copper Tripeptide-1, Magnesium PCA, Sodium Lactate, Isostearyl Isostearate, Phytosphingosine, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, 1-Methylhydantoin-2-Imide, Glycine, Glucosamine Hcl, Glutamic Acid, Glutamine, Disodium Phosphate, Lysine, Leucine, Magnesium Citrate, Maltodextrin, Methionine, Valine, Serine, Sucrose, Cysteine, Citrulline, Sea Salt, Asparagine, Aspartic Acid, Alanine, Arginine, Ammonia, Ornithine, Urea, Uric Acid, Isoleucine, Calcium Chloride, Taurine, Tyrosine, Threonine, Tryptophan, Phenylalanine, Formic Acid, Potassium Hydroxide, Proline, Histidine, Ceramide Ng, Inulin Lauryl Carbamate, Caprylyl Glycol, Tocopheryl Linoleate, Hydroxydecyl Ubiquinone, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Acetyl Dipeptide-1 Cetyl Ester, Ceramide AP, Vp/Polycarbamyl Polyglycol Ester, Saccharide Hydrolysate, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5, Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein, Hydrolyzed Sesame Protein Pg-Propyl Methylsilanediol, Carbomer, Ascorbic Acid Polypeptide, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4, Potassium Cetyl Phosphate, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Hydrolyzed Glycosaminoglycans, Acetyl Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12, Ceramide EOP, Potassium Sorbate

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Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Acetyl Dipeptide-1 Cetyl Ester is a peptide composed of amino acids arginine and tyrosine.

This peptide is considered a neurotransmitter peptide, meaning it has pain-relieving and relaxing properties. It has the ability to calm skin irritation from external factors such as chemical stinging or heat.

Neurotransmitter peptides are also often called "botox in a bottle". This is because these peptides have the ability to relax the muscles.

Though relaxing the muscles can prevent expression lines (as we have seen in botox), the studies do not show these peptides to be a botox replacement. The effects of this muscle relaxation is also short-term, as opposed to longer-term results from botox.

Adenosine is a purine nucleoside that your body already makes in every cell. In skincare, it acts mainly as a skin conditioning and anti-aging agent.

The way it works is fairly well mapped out:

Your skin has cells called fibroblasts that build collagen (the stuff that keeps skin firm and smooth). Adenosine basically flips a switch on these cells that tells them to get to work making more collagen and other proteins. These cells slow down on their own as skin ages, so Adenosine helps give them a little nudge to keep going.

The clinical backing is pretty solid too.

A blind, randomized, placebo-controlled trial of 126 women aged 45-65 tested a 0.1% cream twice daily and found real improvements in crow's feet and frown lines using a precise 3D skin-mapping technique; these changes showed up by week 3 and held at 2 months.

A later study using Adenosine-loaded dissolving microneedle patches reported gains in wrinkle depth, dermal density, elasticity, and hydration.

On concentrations, South Korea's Ministry of Food and Drug Safety has set 0.04% as the approved functional anti-wrinkle level. You'll typically see this ingredient used somewhere in the 0.04-0.1% range since it works at low doses.

This ingredient has been found safe for cosmetics with the data showing no irritation or sensitization.

Overall, this is a great ingredient for any anti-aging routine and has no photosensitizing effect, so it suits both AM and PM use.

Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:

Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.

Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.

Caprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.

Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.

Because it is not a free-fatty acid, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).

Carbomer is a synthetic thickening and gelling agent. It's basically the ingredient that gives a lot of serums, gels, creams, and sunscreens their smooth, non-sticky texture.

Although legally permitted at very high levels, carbomers are normally used at concentrations below 1%.

It also needs to be neutralized to actually thicken, and because it is a large molecule, it doesn't really penetrate the skin barrier.

Allergy-wise, the risk is very low. Clinical studies show carbomers have low potential for skin irritation/sensitization even at concentrations up to 100%.

A 2024 UK study patch-tested 1,302 patients and found true allergy to the parent group of carbomer to be rare with no confirmed relevant reactions.

Ceramide NP (formerly known as Ceramide 3) is one of the skin's naturally occurring lipids.

Since ceramides are the major lipid components of the skin, they are crucial for maintaining skin barrier and hydration. Ceramide NP most closely mirrors the dominant kind in human skin amongst ceramide subtypes.

This ceramide works by slotting into gaps within the stratum corneum's lipid matrix to limit trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL) and shield the skin against external irritants.

A study with 312 patients found that using a ceramide-containing routine for 4 weeks reduced the severity of atopic dermatitis by over 61%.

Another clinical study in subjects aged 60 and older found that a ceramide body wash and moisturizer improved skin dryness and itchy skin in 15 days.

Overall, ceramides are considered non-irritating and safety tests have found little to no observable adverse effects from using this ingredient.

Ceramide NP is usually sourced from plants (like soybean or rice bran), or produced synthetically.

Cetearyl alcohol is a waxy mixture of two fatty alcohols: cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol. It is an emollient and emulsifier.

Despite having "alcohol" in its name, it has nothing to do with drying solvent alcohols; the FDA also allows "alcohol-free" products to contain fatty alcohols like this ingredient.

It plays several roles in a formula:

Typical use levels for this ingredient sit around 1-10% and the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has affirmed safety at concentrations up to 25% in leave-on products.

Multiple assessments have found it to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing to most people.

However, there have been some cases of allergic contact dermatitis in patients with chronically compromised skin barriers.

Cetearyl alcohol has a comedogenic rating of 2 and irritancy rating of 1. Both of these numbers come from the 1989 study that used rabbit ears; a "2" means mildly comedogenic and a "1" means low irritancy.

Here's the catch: rabbit skin is more sensitive than human skin and throws a lot of false positives. A 1996 reappraisal found that ingredients rated 1-2 in the rabbit ear tests are generally safe for humans.

Remember comedogenic ratings are unable to assess the entire formula of a product or how it will react on your skin. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure about certain ingredients.

This ingredient is not fungal acne safe. Cetearyl alcohol is a fatty alcohol with chain lengths that fall within the range that Malassezia can metabolize.

A 2019 study has also observed Malassezia growth in the presence of this ingredient, confirming it to be not-fungal acne safe.

Cetyl Alcohol is a fatty alcohol. Fatty Alcohols are most often used as an emollient or to thicken a product.

Its main roles are:

Though it has "alcohol" in the name, it is not related to denatured alcohol or ethyl alcohol.

The FDA allows products labeled "alcohol-free" to have fatty alcohols.

This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe. It is a primary fatty alcohol with a chain length above 12 carbons. A study from 2019 show Malassezia can feed on fatty alcohols in this range, so it may trigger fungal acne in those prone to it.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Hydroxyethylcellulose is used to improve the texture of products. It is created from a chemical reaction involving ethylene oxide and alkali-cellulose. Cellulose is a sugar found in plant cell walls and help give plants structure.

This ingredient helps stabilize products by preventing ingredients from separating. It can also help thicken the texture of a product.

This ingredient can also be found in pill medicines to help our bodies digest other ingredients.

Lecithin is a term for a group of substances found in the cell membranes of plants, animals, and humans. They are made up of phospholipids.

Thanks to its amphiphilic structure (water-loving head and oil-loving tail), it is a true multitasker:

It plays well with most ingredients and is typically used at 0.1-1%. However, concentrations up to 50% have been reported in moisturizers.

Niacinamide is a multitasking form of vitamin B3 that strengthens the skin barrier, reduces pores and dark spots, regulates oil, and improves signs of aging.

And the best part? It's gentle and well-tolerated by most skin types, including sensitive and reactive skin.

You might have heard of "niacin flush", or the reddening of skin that causes itchiness. Niacinamide has not been found to cause this.

In very rare cases, some individuals may not be able to tolerate niacinamide at all or experience an allergic reaction to it.

If you are experiencing flaking, irritation, and dryness with this ingredient, be sure to double check all your products as this ingredient can be found in all categories of skincare.

When incorporating niacinamide into your routine, look out for concentration amounts. Typically, 5% niacinamide provides benefits such as fading dark spots. However, if you have sensitive skin, it is better to begin with a smaller concentration.

When you apply niacinamide to your skin, your body converts it into nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide (NAD). NAD is an essential coenzyme that is already found in your cells as "fuel" and powers countless biological processes.

In your skin, NAD helps repair cell damage, produce new healthy cells, support collagen production, strengthen the skin barrier, and fight environmental stressors (like UV and pollution).

Our natural NAD levels start to decline with age, leading to slower skin repair, visible aging, and a weaker skin barrier. By providing your skin niacinamide, you're recharging your skin's NAD levels. This leads to stronger, healthier, and younger looking skin.

Another name for vitamin B3 is nicotinamide. This vitamin is water-soluble and our bodies don't store it. We obtain Vitamin B3 from either food or skincare. Meat, fish, wheat, yeast, and leafy greens contain vitamin B3.

The type of niacinamide used in skincare is synthetically created.

Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.

In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.

Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:

Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.

Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.

You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.

Sorbitan Laurate is created from lauric acid and derivatives from sorbitol. It is an emulsifier.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

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