Skin science article
Kiehl's Super Multi-Corrective Cream Versus Beauty of Joseon Dynasty Cream
Kiehl's Super Multi-Corrective Cream Versus Beauty of Joseon Dynasty Cream This anti-aging moisturizer is formulated around Capryloyl Salicylic Acid and Adenosine to soften the look of wrinkles. This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Panax Ginsen
Kiehl's Super Multi-Corrective Cream Versus Beauty of Joseon Dynasty Cream
This anti-aging moisturizer is formulated around Capryloyl Salicylic Acid and Adenosine to soften the look of wrinkles.
This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Panax Ginseng Root Water and Niacinamide to strengthen the skin barrier.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Glycerin
Dicaprylyl Ether
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
Hydroxypropyl Tetrahydropyrantriol
Isononyl Isononanoate
Propylene Glycol
Isopropyl Isostearate
Cetyl Alcohol
Dimethicone
Behenyl Alcohol
Candelilla Cera
Euphorbia Cerifera Cera
Glyceryl Stearate
Stearic Acid
Hydroxyethylpiperazine Ethane Sulfonic Acid
Palmitic Acid
Phenoxyethanol
Cetearyl Alcohol
Citric Acid
Carbomer
Capryloyl Salicylic Acid
Sodium Hydroxide
Caprylyl Glycol
PEG-100 Stearate
Vigna Aconitifolia Seed Extract
Tocopherol
Xanthan Gum
Cetearyl Glucoside
Sodium Cocoyl Glutamate
Sodium Hyaluronate
Disodium EDTA
Pentylene Glycol
Jasminum Officinale Flower Extract
Myristic Acid
Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Oil
Adenosine
Inonotus Obliquus Extract
Limonene
Linalool
Pelargonium Graveolens Flower Oil
Lavandula Angustifolia Oil
Rosa Damascena Flower Oil
Water, Glycerin, Dicaprylyl Ether, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Hydroxypropyl Tetrahydropyrantriol, Isononyl Isononanoate, Propylene Glycol, Isopropyl Isostearate, Cetyl Alcohol, Dimethicone, Behenyl Alcohol, Candelilla Cera, Euphorbia Cerifera Cera, Glyceryl Stearate, Stearic Acid, Hydroxyethylpiperazine Ethane Sulfonic Acid, Palmitic Acid, Phenoxyethanol, Cetearyl Alcohol, Citric Acid, Carbomer, Capryloyl Salicylic Acid, Sodium Hydroxide, Caprylyl Glycol, PEG-100 Stearate, Vigna Aconitifolia Seed Extract, Tocopherol, Xanthan Gum, Cetearyl Glucoside, Sodium Cocoyl Glutamate, Sodium Hyaluronate, Disodium EDTA, Pentylene Glycol, Jasminum Officinale Flower Extract, Myristic Acid, Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Oil, Adenosine, Inonotus Obliquus Extract, Limonene, Linalool, Pelargonium Graveolens Flower Oil, Lavandula Angustifolia Oil, Rosa Damascena Flower Oil
Oryza Sativa Bran Water
Panax Ginseng Root Water
Hydrogenated Polydecene
1,2-Hexanediol
Niacinamide
Squalane
Butylene Glycol
Propanediol
Propylene Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate
Cetearyl Olivate
Sorbitan Olivate
Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Tromethamine
Carthamus Tinctorius Seed Oil
Hydrogenated Coconut Oil
Glyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer
Ethylhexylglycerin
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Hyaluronic Acid
Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid
Honey Extract
Ceramide NP
Hydrogenated Lecithin
Coptis Japonica Root Extract
Raphanus Sativus Seed Extract
Lycium Chinense Fruit Extract
Theobroma Cacao Seed Extract
Phellinus Linteus Extract
Dextrin
Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract
Water, Oryza Sativa Bran Water, Glycerin, Panax Ginseng Root Water, Hydrogenated Polydecene, 1,2-Hexanediol, Niacinamide, Squalane, Butylene Glycol, Propanediol, Propylene Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate, Cetearyl Olivate, Sorbitan Olivate, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Xanthan Gum, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Tromethamine, Carthamus Tinctorius Seed Oil, Hydrogenated Coconut Oil, Glyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer, Ethylhexylglycerin, Adenosine, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Disodium EDTA, Hyaluronic Acid, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Sodium Hyaluronate, Honey Extract, Ceramide NP, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Coptis Japonica Root Extract, Raphanus Sativus Seed Extract, Lycium Chinense Fruit Extract, Theobroma Cacao Seed Extract, Phellinus Linteus Extract, Dextrin, Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract
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Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Adenosine is a purine nucleoside that your body already makes in every cell. In skincare, it acts mainly as a skin conditioning and anti-aging agent.
The way it works is fairly well mapped out:
Your skin has cells called fibroblasts that build collagen (the stuff that keeps skin firm and smooth). Adenosine basically flips a switch on these cells that tells them to get to work making more collagen and other proteins. These cells slow down on their own as skin ages, so Adenosine helps give them a little nudge to keep going.
The clinical backing is pretty solid too.
A blind, randomized, placebo-controlled trial of 126 women aged 45-65 tested a 0.1% cream twice daily and found real improvements in crow's feet and frown lines using a precise 3D skin-mapping technique; these changes showed up by week 3 and held at 2 months.
A later study using Adenosine-loaded dissolving microneedle patches reported gains in wrinkle depth, dermal density, elasticity, and hydration.
On concentrations, South Korea's Ministry of Food and Drug Safety has set 0.04% as the approved functional anti-wrinkle level. You'll typically see this ingredient used somewhere in the 0.04-0.1% range since it works at low doses.
This ingredient has been found safe for cosmetics with the data showing no irritation or sensitization.
Overall, this is a great ingredient for any anti-aging routine and has no photosensitizing effect, so it suits both AM and PM use.
Disodium EDTA is a chelating agent. It grabs onto and deactivates metal ions that sneak into your products from water, packaging, or air.
This ingredient mainly works behind the scenes and helps with:
On top of that, this ingredient can counteract the effects of hard water by binding to the minerals in it.
One thing worth knowing is that Disodium EDTA has been shown to be a mild penetration enhancer. It can help other ingredients absorb into skin more effectively which can be a double-edged sword (great for actives, but can also make the active too strong if you have sensitive skin).
Clinical patch testing showed no significant skin irritation at typical use concentrations and minimal dermal absorption.
You'll most likely see this ingredient near the end of an ingredient list. It's typically found in concentrations less than 1%.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.
In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.
Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:
Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.
Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.
You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Xanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.
On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.
Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.