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Skin science article

Kiehl's Ultra Facial Toner Versus Paula's Choice Skin Balancing Pore-Reducing Toner

Kiehl's Ultra Facial Toner Versus Paula's Choice Skin Balancing Pore-Reducing Toner This hydrating toner is formulated around Squalane to hydrate skin and strengthen the skin barrier. This pore-care toner is formulated around Niacinamide and Panthenol to refin

Kiehl's Ultra Facial Toner Versus Paula's Choice Skin Balancing Pore-Reducing Toner

This hydrating toner is formulated around Squalane to hydrate skin and strengthen the skin barrier.

This pore-care toner is formulated around Niacinamide and Panthenol to refine the look of pores and balance excess oil.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Glycerin

Squalane

Phenoxyethanol

Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer

Sorbitan Oleate

Ethylhexyl Salicylate

PEG-100 Stearate

Potassium Sorbate

Triethanolamine

P-Anisic Acid

Ascorbyl Glucoside

Sodium Hyaluronate

Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil

Prunus Armeniaca Kernel Oil

Tocopherol

Persea Gratissima Oil

Water, Glycerin, Squalane, Phenoxyethanol, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Sorbitan Oleate, Ethylhexyl Salicylate, PEG-100 Stearate, Potassium Sorbate, Triethanolamine, P-Anisic Acid, Ascorbyl Glucoside, Sodium Hyaluronate, Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil, Prunus Armeniaca Kernel Oil, Tocopherol, Persea Gratissima Oil

Butylene Glycol

Niacinamide

Polysorbate 20

Adenosine

Anthemis Nobilis Flower Extract

Arctium Lappa Seed Oil

Hydrolyzed Jojoba Esters

Sodium PCA

Panthenol

Ceramide NP

Ceramide AP

Ceramide EOP

Phytosphingosine

Cholesterol

Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate

Oleth-10

Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate

Caprylyl Glycol

Hexylene Glycol

Sodium Citrate

Xanthan Gum

Trisodium EDTA

Water, Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, Niacinamide, Polysorbate 20, Adenosine, Anthemis Nobilis Flower Extract, Arctium Lappa Seed Oil, Hydrolyzed Jojoba Esters, Sodium PCA, Panthenol, Sodium Hyaluronate, Ceramide NP, Ceramide AP, Ceramide EOP, Phytosphingosine, Cholesterol, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Oleth-10, Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate, Caprylyl Glycol, Hexylene Glycol, Sodium Citrate, Xanthan Gum, Trisodium EDTA, Phenoxyethanol

Reviews

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).

It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.

On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.

Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).

You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.

Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.

Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.

Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.

Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.

In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.

Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:

Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.

Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.

You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

Similar Comparisons

The reference edit

Ingredients, questions
& further reading.

Connected source records selected through this article’s public topic index.

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Formula cabinet

Ingredients & structured notes

Ingredient index

Paula's Choice Skin Recovery Super Antioxidant Concentrate Serum With RetinolIngredients explained

  1. 01A super commonly used 5 unit long, cyclic structured silicone that is water-thin and does not stay on the skin but evaporates from it (called volatile silicone). Similar to other silicones, it gives skin and hair a silky, smooth feel.
  2. 02It's often combined with the non-volatile (i.e. stays on the skin) dimethicone as the two together form a water-resistant, breathable protective barrier on the skin without a negative tacky feel.
  3. 03Probably the most common silicone of all. It is a polymer (created from repeating subunits) molecule and has different molecular weight and thus different viscosity versions from water-light to thick liquid.
  4. 04As for skincare, it makes the skin silky smooth, creates a subtle gloss and forms a protective barrier (aka occlusive). Also, works well to fill in fine lines and wrinkles and give skin a plump look (of course that is only temporary, but still, it's…
  5. 05Expand to read more
  6. 06As for hair care, it is a non-volatile silicone meaning that it stays on the hair rather than evaporates from it and smoothes the hair like no other thing. Depending on your hair type, it can be a bit difficult to wash out and might cause some build…
  7. 07An often used emollient with a light and silky feel. It's very mild to both skin and eyes and spreads nicely and easily. It's often used in sunscreens as it's also an excellent solvent for sunscreen agents.
  8. 08You probably know olive oil from the kitchen as a great and healthy option for salad dressing but it's also a great and healthy option to moisturize and nourish the skin, especially if it's on the dry side.
  9. 09Similar to other emollient plant oils, it's loaded with nourishing fatty acids: oleic is the main component (55-83%), and also contains linoleic (3.5-20%) and palmitic acids (7-20%). It also contains antioxidant polyphenols, tocopherols (types of vi…
  10. 10Overall, a great option for dry skin but less so for acne-prone or damaged skin.
  11. 11Primary fat-soluble antioxidant in our skin
  12. 12Significant photoprotection against UVB rays
  13. 13Vit C + Vit E work in synergy and provide great photoprotection
  14. 14Has emollient properties
  15. 15Easy to formulate, stable and relatively inexpensive
  16. 16Retinol (pure Vitamin A) is probably the most proven anti-aging ingredient available OTC
  17. 17It has to be converted in the skin to retinoic acid to work its magic
  18. 18Once converted, it has the same effect as all-trans-retinoic acid, aka tretinoin
  19. 19A generally accepted ballpark number is that retinol is 10-to-20 times less potent than retinoic acid
  20. 20It makes skin less wrinkled, smoother, firmer and tighter
Source · incidecoder.com
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Product index

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Comparison edit

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