Peptide Skincare & BeautySkin science and ingredient guides

Skin science article

La Roche-Posay Toleriane Sensitive Cream Hydrating Versus Naturium Multi-Peptide Moisturizer

La Roche-Posay Toleriane Sensitive Cream Hydrating Versus Naturium Multi-Peptide Moisturizer This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Squalane and Niacinamide to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrate skin. This anti-aging moisturizer is formulate

La Roche-Posay Toleriane Sensitive Cream Hydrating Versus Naturium Multi-Peptide Moisturizer

This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Squalane and Niacinamide to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrate skin.

This anti-aging moisturizer is formulated around Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5 and Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 to soften the look of wrinkles.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Glycerin

Squalane

Dimethicone

Zea Mays Starch

Niacinamide

Ammonium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate

Myristyl Myristate

Stearic Acid

Ceramide NP

Potassium Cetyl Phosphate

Glyceryl Stearate Se

Sodium Hydroxide

Myristic Acid

Palmitic Acid

Capryloyl Glycine

Caprylyl Glycol

Xanthan Gum

Water, Glycerin, Squalane, Dimethicone, Zea Mays Starch, Niacinamide, Ammonium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate, Myristyl Myristate, Stearic Acid, Ceramide NP, Potassium Cetyl Phosphate, Glyceryl Stearate Se, Sodium Hydroxide, Myristic Acid, Palmitic Acid, Capryloyl Glycine, Caprylyl Glycol, Xanthan Gum

Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil

Glyceryl Stearate

Cetyl Alcohol

Stearyl Alcohol

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5

Pantolactone

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1

Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7

Hydrolyzed Plukenetia Volubilis Seed Extract

Dunaliella Salina Extract

Sodium Hyaluronate

3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid

Panthenol

Caryodendron Orinocense Seed Oil

Honokiol

Magnolol

Sorbitan Oleate

Aluminum Starch Octenylsuccinate

Hydroxyacetophenone

Acrylamide/Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate Copolymer

Polyglyceryl-6 Laurate

1,2-Hexanediol

Boron Nitride

Polyglyceryl-10 Oleate

Isohexadecane

Butylene Glycol

Chlorphenesin

Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer

Tocopheryl Acetate

Polysorbate 80

Sorbitan Palmitate

Sodium Benzoate

Carbomer

Sodium Lactate

Phenoxyethanol

Polysorbate 20

Citric Acid

Ethylhexylglycerin

Potassium Sorbate

Water, Glycerin, Dimethicone, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Squalane, Glyceryl Stearate, Cetyl Alcohol, Niacinamide, Stearyl Alcohol, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5, Pantolactone, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Hydrolyzed Plukenetia Volubilis Seed Extract, Dunaliella Salina Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, Panthenol, Caryodendron Orinocense Seed Oil, Honokiol, Magnolol, Palmitic Acid, Sorbitan Oleate, Aluminum Starch Octenylsuccinate, Hydroxyacetophenone, Stearic Acid, Acrylamide/Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate Copolymer, Polyglyceryl-6 Laurate, 1,2-Hexanediol, Boron Nitride, Caprylyl Glycol, Polyglyceryl-10 Oleate, Isohexadecane, Butylene Glycol, Chlorphenesin, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Tocopheryl Acetate, Polysorbate 80, Sorbitan Palmitate, Sodium Hydroxide, Sodium Benzoate, Carbomer, Sodium Lactate, Phenoxyethanol, Polysorbate 20, Citric Acid, Ethylhexylglycerin, Potassium Sorbate

Reviews

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Caprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.

Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.

Because it is not a free-fatty acid, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).

Dimethicone is a type of synthetic silicone created from natural materials such as quartz. It is also known as polydimethylsiloxane.

What it does:

Dimethicone comes in different viscosities:

Depending on the viscosity, dimethicone has different properties.

Ingredients lists don't always show which type is used, so we recommend reaching out to the brand if you have questions about the viscosity.

This ingredient is unlikely to cause irritation because it does not get absorbed into skin. However, people with silicone allergies should be careful about using this ingredient.

Note: Dimethicone may contribute to pilling. This is because it is not oil or water soluble, so pilling may occur when layered with products. When mixed with heavy oils in a formula, the outcome is also quite greasy.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Niacinamide is a multitasking form of vitamin B3 that strengthens the skin barrier, reduces pores and dark spots, regulates oil, and improves signs of aging.

And the best part? It's gentle and well-tolerated by most skin types, including sensitive and reactive skin.

You might have heard of "niacin flush", or the reddening of skin that causes itchiness. Niacinamide has not been found to cause this.

In very rare cases, some individuals may not be able to tolerate niacinamide at all or experience an allergic reaction to it.

If you are experiencing flaking, irritation, and dryness with this ingredient, be sure to double check all your products as this ingredient can be found in all categories of skincare.

When incorporating niacinamide into your routine, look out for concentration amounts. Typically, 5% niacinamide provides benefits such as fading dark spots. However, if you have sensitive skin, it is better to begin with a smaller concentration.

When you apply niacinamide to your skin, your body converts it into nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide (NAD). NAD is an essential coenzyme that is already found in your cells as "fuel" and powers countless biological processes.

In your skin, NAD helps repair cell damage, produce new healthy cells, support collagen production, strengthen the skin barrier, and fight environmental stressors (like UV and pollution).

Our natural NAD levels start to decline with age, leading to slower skin repair, visible aging, and a weaker skin barrier. By providing your skin niacinamide, you're recharging your skin's NAD levels. This leads to stronger, healthier, and younger looking skin.

Another name for vitamin B3 is nicotinamide. This vitamin is water-soluble and our bodies don't store it. We obtain Vitamin B3 from either food or skincare. Meat, fish, wheat, yeast, and leafy greens contain vitamin B3.

The type of niacinamide used in skincare is synthetically created.

Palmitic Acid is a fatty acid naturally found in our skin and in many plant and animal sources.

In cosmetics, it is usually derived from palm oil. It serves many purposes in skincare, acting as a cleanser, emollient, and emulsifier.

Interestingly, topically applied Palmitic Acid can be elongated into longer chain fatty acids and ceramides. A 2019 study found low levels of Palmitic Acid lead to slower development of cells, suggesting it plays a role in keeping your skin's renewal process on track.

The CIR (Cosmetic Ingredient Review) panel determined it safe as used in cosmetics at concentrations up to 13%. It is non-irritating and non-sensitizing in clinical studies.

The culprit behind fungal acne, the Malassezia yeast, feeds on fatty acids with carbon chain lengths between C11-C24. Palmitic Acid, at C16, falls right into that sweet spot.

In vitro studies have shown that Palmitic Acid is one of the fatty acids that induce rapid Malassezia growth in lab settings.

It's worth noting that what feeds yeast in a lab doesn't necessarily feed it on your face since formulation and your skin's chemistry play a bigger role.

Sodium Hydroxide is also known as lye or caustic soda. It is used to adjust the pH of products; many ingredients require a specific pH to be effective.

In small amounts, sodium hydroxide is considered safe to use. However, large amounts may cause chemical burns due to its high alkaline.

Your skin has a natural pH and acid mantle. This acid mantle helps prevent harmful bacteria from breaking through. The acid mantle also helps keep your skin hydrated.

"Alkaline" refers to a high pH level. A low pH level would be considered acidic.

Squalane is the hydrogenated and shelf-stable form of squalene (a lipid that naturally occurs in human sebum).

It is an emollient and skin conditioning agent that is able to integrate seamlessly into the skin's lipid barrier without clogging pores.

This is due to how structurally similar it is to what your skin already produces.

Though it is mostly an emollient that helps soften and hydrate skin, it also has some humectant and occlusive action. Humectants help the skin retain moisture while occlusives seal it in, making squalane a triple-threat moisturizer.

Research shows it has antioxidant capabilities that help protect against stressors like UV exposure, specifically UVA induced oxidative stress. This study also found that it supports collagen biosynthesis in human dermal fibroblasts.

No clinical study has reported significant adverse effects and irritation reactions are very rare from this ingredient (even at 100% concentration).

Overall, it's a fantastic ingredient for hydration and is suitable for all skin types.

This depends on the source. Squalane can be derived from both plants and animals. Most squalane used in skincare comes from plants.

Please note: the source of squalane is only known if disclosed by the brand. We recommend reaching out to the brand if you have any questions about their squalane.

Read more about squalene with an "e".

Though squalane is often called an oil, it’s technically not one. It is a hydrocarbon, meaning it is only made of carbon and hydrogen. True oils are triglycerides and made of fatty acids and glycerol.

The term “oil-free” isn’t regulated so companies can define it however they want. Some exclude all oils, while others just avoid mineral oil or comedogenic oils.

Squalane has a comedogenic rating of 1 from the original 1972 study that tested raw ingredients under occlusion on rabbit ears. This system is not standardized or peer-reviewed, and using the raw ingredients is very different from how diluted cosmetic formulations are used on human skin.

A comedogenic rating of 1 means it is "unlikely to clog pores" according to the original rating system.

The overall formula of a product matters more than the individual ingredients on whether or not it will cause clogged pores.

Stearic Acid is a fatty acid that is already found in your skin. It's one of the free fatty acids that works alongside ceramides and cholesterols to maintain your barrier.

In cosmetics, it is a multitasker:

Safety-wise, the CIR Expert Panel has concluded it to be safe in cosmetics when formulated to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing.

Free stearic acid is a C18 fatty acid that the Malassezia yeast can substrate, so this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

Similar Comparisons

The reference edit

Ingredients, questions
& further reading.

Connected source records selected through this article’s public topic index.

01

Formula cabinet

Ingredients & structured notes

Ingredient index

Ingredients Side-by-side

  1. 01Water
  2. 02Glycerin
  3. 03Cetearyl Alcohol
  4. 04Dicaprylyl Carbonate
  5. 05Hydrolyzed Collagen
  6. 06Bakuchiol
  7. 07Acetyl Dipeptide-31 Amide
  8. 08Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
  9. 09Hydroxypropyl Starch Phosphate
  10. 10Steareth-10
  11. 11Stearic Acid
  12. 12Palmitic Acid
  13. 13Glyceryl Dilaurate
  14. 14Caprylyl Glycol
  15. 15Sodium Polyacrylate
  16. 16Petrolatum
  17. 17Chlorphenesin
  18. 18Water, Glycerin, Cetearyl Alcohol, Dicaprylyl Carbonate, Hydrolyzed Collagen, Bakuchiol, Acetyl Dipeptide-31 Amide, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Hydroxypropyl Starch Phosphate, Steareth-10, Stearic Acid, Palmitic Acid, Glyceryl Dilaurate, Caprylyl G…
  19. 19Dimethicone
  20. 20Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
Source · skinsort.com
02

Product index

Related product references

Product

Naturium Multi-Peptide Moisturizer

Naturium Multi-Peptide Moisturizer Ingredients in Naturium Multi-Peptide Moisturizer explained: benefits, concerns, and detailed analysis of 48 ingredients including Water, Glycerin, and Di…

Source: skinsort.comView reference →
03

Comparison edit

Read side by side