Skin science article
Tatcha The Dewy Skin Cream Versus Naturium Multi-Peptide Moisturizer
Tatcha The Dewy Skin Cream Versus Naturium Multi-Peptide Moisturizer This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Saccharomyces/Rice Ferment Filtrate and Squalane to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrate skin. This anti-aging moisturizer is formulate
Tatcha The Dewy Skin Cream Versus Naturium Multi-Peptide Moisturizer
This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Saccharomyces/Rice Ferment Filtrate and Squalane to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrate skin.
This anti-aging moisturizer is formulated around Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5 and Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 to soften the look of wrinkles.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Saccharomyces/Rice Ferment Filtrate
Glycerin
Propanediol
Dimethicone
Squalane
Diisostearyl Malate
Behenyl Alcohol
Myristyl Myristate
Dipentaerythrityl Hexahydroxystearate
Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2
Tridecyl Trimellitate
Inositol
Sorbitan Tristearate
Beheneth-20
Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
Cladosiphon Okamuranus Extract
Chondrus Crispus Extract
Betaphycus Gelatinum Extract
Oryza Sativa Bran Extract
Panax Ginseng Root Extract
Origanum Majorana Leaf Extract
Thymus Serpyllum Extract
Malva Sylvestris Flower Extract
Sodium Hyaluronate
Gold
Sericin
Phytosteryl Macadamiate
Tocopherol
Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
Sorbitan Isostearate
Polysorbate 60
Butylene Glycol
Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer
Sodium Benzoate
Gluconolactone
Ethylhexylglycerin
Parfum
Alcohol
Phenoxyethanol
Citral
Limonene
Linalool
Mica
Tin Oxide
CI 77891
CI 60725
Water, Saccharomyces/Rice Ferment Filtrate, Glycerin, Propanediol, Dimethicone, Squalane, Diisostearyl Malate, Behenyl Alcohol, Myristyl Myristate, Dipentaerythrityl Hexahydroxystearate, Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2, Tridecyl Trimellitate, Inositol, Sorbitan Tristearate, Beheneth-20, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Cladosiphon Okamuranus Extract, Chondrus Crispus Extract, Betaphycus Gelatinum Extract, Oryza Sativa Bran Extract, Panax Ginseng Root Extract, Origanum Majorana Leaf Extract, Thymus Serpyllum Extract, Malva Sylvestris Flower Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, Gold, Sericin, Phytosteryl Macadamiate, Tocopherol, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Sorbitan Isostearate, Polysorbate 60, Butylene Glycol, Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Sodium Benzoate, Gluconolactone, Ethylhexylglycerin, Parfum, Alcohol, Phenoxyethanol, Citral, Limonene, Linalool, Mica, Tin Oxide, CI 77891, CI 60725
Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
Glyceryl Stearate
Cetyl Alcohol
Niacinamide
Stearyl Alcohol
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5
Pantolactone
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1
Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7
Hydrolyzed Plukenetia Volubilis Seed Extract
Dunaliella Salina Extract
3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid
Panthenol
Caryodendron Orinocense Seed Oil
Honokiol
Magnolol
Palmitic Acid
Sorbitan Oleate
Aluminum Starch Octenylsuccinate
Hydroxyacetophenone
Stearic Acid
Acrylamide/Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate Copolymer
Polyglyceryl-6 Laurate
1,2-Hexanediol
Boron Nitride
Caprylyl Glycol
Polyglyceryl-10 Oleate
Isohexadecane
Chlorphenesin
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Tocopheryl Acetate
Polysorbate 80
Sorbitan Palmitate
Sodium Hydroxide
Carbomer
Sodium Lactate
Polysorbate 20
Citric Acid
Potassium Sorbate
Water, Glycerin, Dimethicone, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Squalane, Glyceryl Stearate, Cetyl Alcohol, Niacinamide, Stearyl Alcohol, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5, Pantolactone, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Hydrolyzed Plukenetia Volubilis Seed Extract, Dunaliella Salina Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, Panthenol, Caryodendron Orinocense Seed Oil, Honokiol, Magnolol, Palmitic Acid, Sorbitan Oleate, Aluminum Starch Octenylsuccinate, Hydroxyacetophenone, Stearic Acid, Acrylamide/Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate Copolymer, Polyglyceryl-6 Laurate, 1,2-Hexanediol, Boron Nitride, Caprylyl Glycol, Polyglyceryl-10 Oleate, Isohexadecane, Butylene Glycol, Chlorphenesin, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Tocopheryl Acetate, Polysorbate 80, Sorbitan Palmitate, Sodium Hydroxide, Sodium Benzoate, Carbomer, Sodium Lactate, Phenoxyethanol, Polysorbate 20, Citric Acid, Ethylhexylglycerin, Potassium Sorbate
Reviews
Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Dimethicone is a type of synthetic silicone created from natural materials such as quartz. It is also known as polydimethylsiloxane.
What it does:
Dimethicone comes in different viscosities:
Depending on the viscosity, dimethicone has different properties.
Ingredients lists don't always show which type is used, so we recommend reaching out to the brand if you have questions about the viscosity.
This ingredient is unlikely to cause irritation because it does not get absorbed into skin. However, people with silicone allergies should be careful about using this ingredient.
Note: Dimethicone may contribute to pilling. This is because it is not oil or water soluble, so pilling may occur when layered with products. When mixed with heavy oils in a formula, the outcome is also quite greasy.
Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).
It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.
On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.
Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).
You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.
Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.
Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.
Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.
Sodium Benzoate is a preservative. It's used in both cosmetic and food products to inhibit the growth of mold and bacteria. It is typically produced synthetically.
Both the US FDA and EU Health Committee have approved the use of sodium benzoate. In the US, levels of 0.1% (of the total product) are allowed.
Sodium benzoate works as a preservative by inhibiting the growth of bacteria inside of cells. It prevents the cell from fermenting a type of sugar using an enzyme called phosphofructokinase.
It is the salt of benzoic acid. Foods containing sodium benzoate include soda, salad dressings, condiments, fruit juices, wines, and snack foods.
Studies for using ascorbic acid and sodium benzoate in cosmetics are lacking, especially in skincare routines with multiple steps.
We always recommend speaking with a professional, such as a dermatologist, if you have any concerns.
Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.
In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.
Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:
Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.
Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.
You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.
Squalane is the hydrogenated and shelf-stable form of squalene (a lipid that naturally occurs in human sebum).
It is an emollient and skin conditioning agent that is able to integrate seamlessly into the skin's lipid barrier without clogging pores.
This is due to how structurally similar it is to what your skin already produces.
Though it is mostly an emollient that helps soften and hydrate skin, it also has some humectant and occlusive action. Humectants help the skin retain moisture while occlusives seal it in, making squalane a triple-threat moisturizer.
Research shows it has antioxidant capabilities that help protect against stressors like UV exposure, specifically UVA induced oxidative stress. This study also found that it supports collagen biosynthesis in human dermal fibroblasts.
No clinical study has reported significant adverse effects and irritation reactions are very rare from this ingredient (even at 100% concentration).
Overall, it's a fantastic ingredient for hydration and is suitable for all skin types.
This depends on the source. Squalane can be derived from both plants and animals. Most squalane used in skincare comes from plants.
Please note: the source of squalane is only known if disclosed by the brand. We recommend reaching out to the brand if you have any questions about their squalane.
Read more about squalene with an "e".
Though squalane is often called an oil, it’s technically not one. It is a hydrocarbon, meaning it is only made of carbon and hydrogen. True oils are triglycerides and made of fatty acids and glycerol.
The term “oil-free” isn’t regulated so companies can define it however they want. Some exclude all oils, while others just avoid mineral oil or comedogenic oils.
Squalane has a comedogenic rating of 1 from the original 1972 study that tested raw ingredients under occlusion on rabbit ears. This system is not standardized or peer-reviewed, and using the raw ingredients is very different from how diluted cosmetic formulations are used on human skin.
A comedogenic rating of 1 means it is "unlikely to clog pores" according to the original rating system.
The overall formula of a product matters more than the individual ingredients on whether or not it will cause clogged pores.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!