Skin science article
Lacura Multi-Peptide Moisturiser Versus Stratia Interface Cream
Lacura Multi-Peptide Moisturiser Versus Stratia Interface Cream This anti-aging moisturizer is formulated around Sh-Oligopeptide-1 and Sh-Polypeptide-11 to soften the look of wrinkles. This anti-aging moisturizer is formulated around Squalane and Panthenol to
Lacura Multi-Peptide Moisturiser Versus Stratia Interface Cream
This anti-aging moisturizer is formulated around Sh-Oligopeptide-1 and Sh-Polypeptide-11 to soften the look of wrinkles.
This anti-aging moisturizer is formulated around Squalane and Panthenol to soften the look of wrinkles and strengthen the skin barrier.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Butylene Glycol
Glycerin
Hydrogenated Polyisobutene
C15-19 Alkane
Aluminum Starch Octenylsuccinate
Polyacrylamide
Phenoxyethanol
Hydrogenated Poly(C6-14 Olefin)
C13-14 Isoparaffin
Isomalt
Caprylyl Glycol
Carbomer
Sodium Hydroxide
Sodium Hyaluronate
Laureth-7
Disodium EDTA
Tocopheryl Acetate
Nymphaea Alba Flower Extract
Lecithin
Lauroyl Lysine
1,2-Hexanediol
Acetyl Glutamine
Bacillus/Folic Acid Ferment Filtrate Extract
Sh-Oligopeptide-1
Sh-Oligopeptide-2
Sh-Polypeptide-1
Sh-Polypeptide-11
Sh-Polypeptide-9
Symphytum Officinale Callus Culture Extract
Sodium Benzoate
Lactic Acid/Glycolic Acid Copolymer
Polyvinyl Alcohol
Copper Palmitoyl Heptapeptide-14
Heptapeptide-15 Palmitate
Water, Butylene Glycol, Glycerin, Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, C15-19 Alkane, Aluminum Starch Octenylsuccinate, Polyacrylamide, Phenoxyethanol, Hydrogenated Poly(C6-14 Olefin), C13-14 Isoparaffin, Isomalt, Caprylyl Glycol, Carbomer, Sodium Hydroxide, Sodium Hyaluronate, Laureth-7, Disodium EDTA, Tocopheryl Acetate, Nymphaea Alba Flower Extract, Lecithin, Lauroyl Lysine, 1,2-Hexanediol, Acetyl Glutamine, Bacillus/Folic Acid Ferment Filtrate Extract, Sh-Oligopeptide-1, Sh-Oligopeptide-2, Sh-Polypeptide-1, Sh-Polypeptide-11, Sh-Polypeptide-9, Symphytum Officinale Callus Culture Extract, Sodium Benzoate, Lactic Acid/Glycolic Acid Copolymer, Polyvinyl Alcohol, Copper Palmitoyl Heptapeptide-14, Heptapeptide-15 Palmitate
Squalane
Hydrogenated Polydecene
Panthenol
Ethoxydiglycol
Dimethicone
Rosa Canina Fruit Oil
Cetearyl Alcohol
Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract
Allantoin
Glycolic Acid
Potassium Sorbate
Methylparaben
Propylparaben
Diazolidinyl Urea
Xanthan Gum
Water, Glycerin, Squalane, Hydrogenated Polydecene, Panthenol, Ethoxydiglycol, Dimethicone, Rosa Canina Fruit Oil, Cetearyl Alcohol, Acetyl Glutamine, Sh-Oligopeptide-1, Sh-Oligopeptide-2, Sh-Polypeptide-1, Sh-Polypeptide-9, Sh-Polypeptide-11, Copper Palmitoyl Heptapeptide-14, Heptapeptide-15 Palmitate, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract, Allantoin, Caprylyl Glycol, Butylene Glycol, Sodium Hyaluronate, Glycolic Acid, Lactic Acid/Glycolic Acid Copolymer, Disodium EDTA, Polyacrylamide, Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Benzoate, C13-14 Isoparaffin, Polyvinyl Alcohol, Methylparaben, Propylparaben, Laureth-7, Diazolidinyl Urea, Xanthan Gum
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Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
We don't have a description for Acetyl Glutamine yet.
Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
C13-14 Isoparaffin is a synthetic emollient, solvent, and thickening agent. It helps soften skin and improves spreadability without leaving a greasy residue.
This ingredient has been found to be non-sensitizing and safe for use in cosmetics.
Two things floating around online that cause fear-mongering:
There's one scary-sounding study related to kidney tumors in male rats; this depends on a protein called alpha-2u-globulin that binds the ingredient and clogs up kidney cells. Female rats barely make this protein, and humans don't make it at all so this effect cannot happen to us. Regulatory bodies have states this rat-only pathway shouldn't be used to judge human risk.
The other thing you'll see is 1,4-dioxane being a trace byproduct that can form during manufacturing of petroleum-derived ingredients. This is a real, but heavily managed/monitored issue. This byproduct is removed through purification steps before the ingredients goes into the formula. Regulatory bodies also actively monitor residual levels for safety.
One last thing to note: this ingredient is a pure hydrocarbon with no fatty-acid or ester chains for Malassezia to feed on, so it's considered fungal acne safe.
Caprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.
Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.
Because it is not a free-fatty acid, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).
This peptide is the copper salt and formed by reacting palmitic acid and heptapeptide-14.
This uses a high-tech delivery system called The Cosmetic Drone, where the peptide is enclosed in a shell made from Lactic Acid/Glycolic Acid Copolymer and Polyvinyl Alcohol. Another peptide on the outside guides the capsule to fibroblast cells, the collagen-producing cells in the skin.
Once it reaches the fibroblasts, Copper Palmitoyl Heptapeptide-14 boosts the production of collagen and elastin.
This advanced system works at an incredibly low concentration of just 0.001%.
Disodium EDTA is a chelating agent. It grabs onto and deactivates metal ions that sneak into your products from water, packaging, or air.
This ingredient mainly works behind the scenes and helps with:
On top of that, this ingredient can counteract the effects of hard water by binding to the minerals in it.
One thing worth knowing is that Disodium EDTA has been shown to be a mild penetration enhancer. It can help other ingredients absorb into skin more effectively which can be a double-edged sword (great for actives, but can also make the active too strong if you have sensitive skin).
Clinical patch testing showed no significant skin irritation at typical use concentrations and minimal dermal absorption.
You'll most likely see this ingredient near the end of an ingredient list. It's typically found in concentrations less than 1%.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Heptapeptide-15 Palmitate is a synthetic targeting peptide. It's made up of seven amino acids with a palmitic acid tail attached.
This fatty acid attachment increases the molecule's hydrophobicity, improves stability, reduces enzyme degradation, and enhances its ability to cross the skin's lipid barrier (this is a common challenge for peptides).
As a targeting peptide, it sits on the outer shell of an encapsulated ingredient system and seeks out receptors on collagen and elastin producing cells in skin.
Once it binds, the cell internalizes the capsule and releases the active payload inside; it essentially acts as a GPS guiding ingredients to the right place.
It also mimicks the skin's natural growth factors to support skin firmness by upping production of collagen, elastin, glycosaminoglycans (GAGs).
Most of the evidence for this ingredient comes from manufacturer in vitro data, so independent clinical trials are still limited. However, the underlying mechanism is well-supported by the broader cosmetic peptide literature.
Fungal acne note: Usually a palmitic acid component can feed Malassezia in unbound form, but here is is covalently bonded to the peptide. This means it is very difficult for Malassezia to access, and therefore very unlikely to cause fungal acne.
This ingredient is a combination of two AHAs, lactic acid and glycolic acid. It has exfoliating properties
Laureth-7 is created by the ethoxylation of lauryl alcohol using ethylene oxide. Lauryl alcohol is a fatty alcohol with hydrating properties.
This ingredient is an emulsifier and cleansing ingredient. As an emulsifier, it is used to prevent ingredients from separating. It also helps cleanse the skin by gathering dirt, oil, and pollutants to be rinsed away.
Polyacrylamide is a synthetic polymer. It is used to stabilize products and bind ingredients. When hydrated, Polyacrylamide forms a soft gel.
Polyacrylamide is low-toxicity. If source properly, it is deemed safe to use in cosmetics.
It should be noted the precursor to Polyacrylamide is acrylamide. Acrylamide is a carcinogen. Most reputable sources of Polyacrylamide will screen for residual acrylamide to make sure the count is in a safe range. Acrylamide is not able to be absorbed through the skin.
We recommend speaking with a professional if you have concerns.
We don't have a description for Polyvinyl Alcohol yet.
sh-Oligopeptide-1 is a peptide found naturally in our bodies. Peptides are the building blocks for collagen and elastin in our skin.
In cosmetics, this ingredient is bioengineered to be identical to a human gene that codes for epidermal growth factor (EGF). EGF are signal molecules that simulate cell growth and healing.
Studies find EGF help with:
In South Korea and China, EGF is considered a controversial ingredient. The South Korean Ministry of Food and Drug Safety has cracked down on companies with products including EGF due to false advertisement claims.
According to Dr. Zoe Draelos, growth factors have some drawbacks:
There is also controversy surrounding growth factors. The controversy is due to their mitogenic activity, or their ability to increase the number of cells. It is best to avoid using growth factors if you have psoriasis or are at risk of skin cancer. However, it should be noted EGF are not mutagenic - meaning they will not cause cancer.
This peptide has similar properties to Sh-Oligopeptide-1.
There is also controversy surrounding EGF. The controversy is due to their mitogenic activity, or their ability to increase the number of cells. It is best to avoid using growth factors if you have psoriasis or are at risk of skin cancer. However, it should be noted EGF are not mutagenic - meaning they will not cause cancer.
Sh-Polypeptide-1 is a signal peptide that tells our cells to create more fibroblast cells. Fibroblasts maintain skin structure and plays a role in wound healing.
It is important to note this ingredient is mitogenic and not mutagenic. Meaning it will stimulate cell multiplication, and will not cause cancer.
Sh-Polypeptide-11 is a signal protein that tells our skin to create more fibroblast cells. Fibroblasts maintain skin structure and plays a role in wound healing.
Sh-Polypeptide-9 is a signal peptide that tells our body to create more blood vessels.
It is important to note, this ingredient is mitogenic and not mutagenic. Meaning it will stimulate cell multiplication, and will not cause cancer.
Sodium Benzoate is a preservative. It's used in both cosmetic and food products to inhibit the growth of mold and bacteria. It is typically produced synthetically.
Both the US FDA and EU Health Committee have approved the use of sodium benzoate. In the US, levels of 0.1% (of the total product) are allowed.
Sodium benzoate works as a preservative by inhibiting the growth of bacteria inside of cells. It prevents the cell from fermenting a type of sugar using an enzyme called phosphofructokinase.
It is the salt of benzoic acid. Foods containing sodium benzoate include soda, salad dressings, condiments, fruit juices, wines, and snack foods.
Studies for using ascorbic acid and sodium benzoate in cosmetics are lacking, especially in skincare routines with multiple steps.
We always recommend speaking with a professional, such as a dermatologist, if you have any concerns.
Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.
In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.
Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:
Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.
Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.
You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!