Skin science article
Lancôme Hydra Zen Anti-Stress Glow Moisturiser Versus Lancôme Rénergie H.P.N. 300-Peptide Cream
Lancôme Hydra Zen Anti-Stress Glow Moisturiser Versus Lancôme Rénergie H.P.N. 300-Peptide Cream This calming moisturizer is formulated around Butyrospermum Parkii Butter and Squalane to calm redness and hydrate skin. This anti-aging moisturizer is formulated a
Lancôme Hydra Zen Anti-Stress Glow Moisturiser Versus Lancôme Rénergie H.P.N. 300-Peptide Cream
This calming moisturizer is formulated around Butyrospermum Parkii Butter and Squalane to calm redness and hydrate skin.
This anti-aging moisturizer is formulated around Niacinamide and Adenosine to soften the look of wrinkles and refine skin texture.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Glycerin
Pentylene Glycol
Octyldodecanol
Butylene Glycol
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
Beheneth-10
Squalane
Glycol Palmitate
PCA
Alanine
Cocos Nucifera Oil
Tocopherol
Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil
Hydroxyacetophenone
Sodium Polyacrylate
Sodium Hyaluronate
Sodium PCA
Sodium Lactate
Paeonia Suffruticosa Root Extract
Phenylalanine
Arginine
Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Valine
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-8
Xanthan Gum
Menthol
Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice Powder
Propylene Glycol
Proline
Isoleucine
Aspartic Acid
Coriandrum Sativum Fruit Oil
Sorbitol
Serine
Threonine
Passiflora Edulis Seed Oil
Rosa Gallica Flower Extract
Histidine
Citric Acid
Prunus Armeniaca Kernel Oil
Dextran
Glycine
Parfum
Water, Glycerin, Pentylene Glycol, Octyldodecanol, Butylene Glycol, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Beheneth-10, Squalane, Glycol Palmitate, PCA, Alanine, Cocos Nucifera Oil, Tocopherol, Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil, Hydroxyacetophenone, Sodium Polyacrylate, Sodium Hyaluronate, Sodium PCA, Sodium Lactate, Paeonia Suffruticosa Root Extract, Phenylalanine, Arginine, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Valine, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-8, Xanthan Gum, Menthol, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice Powder, Propylene Glycol, Proline, Isoleucine, Aspartic Acid, Coriandrum Sativum Fruit Oil, Sorbitol, Serine, Threonine, Passiflora Edulis Seed Oil, Rosa Gallica Flower Extract, Histidine, Citric Acid, Prunus Armeniaca Kernel Oil, Dextran, Glycine, Parfum
Dimethicone
Cetearyl Alcohol
Theobroma Grandiflorum Seed Butter
Alcohol Denat.
Cetearyl Isononanoate
Niacinamide
Glyceryl Stearate
PEG-100 Stearate
Isopropyl Palmitate
Cyclodextrin
Hydrolyzed Lupine Protein
Pisum Sativum Extract
Adenosine
Capryloyl Salicylic Acid
Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid
Hydrolyzed Linseed Extract
Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate
Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate
Tocopheryl Acetate
Cera Alba
Orbignya Oleifera Seed Oil
Simmondsia Chinensis Butter
Cetearyl Glucoside
Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
Polysorbate 60
Potassium Cetyl Phosphate
Sorbitan Isostearate
Dimethicone/Polyglycerin-3 Crosspolymer
Benzyl Alcohol
Geraniol
Limonene
Chlorphenesin
Dipropylene Glycol
Phenoxyethanol
Sodium Benzoate
Water, Glycerin, Dimethicone, Cetearyl Alcohol, Theobroma Grandiflorum Seed Butter, Alcohol Denat., Cetearyl Isononanoate, Niacinamide, Glyceryl Stearate, PEG-100 Stearate, Isopropyl Palmitate, Octyldodecanol, Cyclodextrin, Hydrolyzed Lupine Protein, Pisum Sativum Extract, Adenosine, Capryloyl Salicylic Acid, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Hydrolyzed Linseed Extract, Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate, Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Cera Alba, Orbignya Oleifera Seed Oil, Simmondsia Chinensis Butter, Cetearyl Glucoside, Citric Acid, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Polysorbate 60, Potassium Cetyl Phosphate, Sorbitan Isostearate, Tocopherol, Dimethicone/Polyglycerin-3 Crosspolymer, Benzyl Alcohol, Geraniol, Limonene, Chlorphenesin, Dipropylene Glycol, Phenoxyethanol, Sodium Benzoate, Parfum
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Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Citric Acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) naturally found in citrus fruits like oranges, lemons, and limes.
Like other AHAs, citric acid can exfoliate skin by breaking down the bonds that hold dead skin cells together. This helps reveal smoother and brighter skin underneath.
However, this exfoliating effect only happens at high concentrations (20%) which can be hard to find in cosmetic products.
Due to this, citric acid is usually included in small amounts as a pH adjuster. This helps keep products slightly more acidic and compatible with skin's natural pH.
In skincare formulas, citric acid can:
While it can provide some skin benefits, research shows lactic acid and glycolic acid are generally more effective and less irritating exfoliants.
Most citric acid used in skincare today is made by fermenting sugars (usually from molasses). This synthetic version is identical to the natural citrus form but easier to stabilize and use in formulations.
Rosacea skin has a lower threshold for acids generally, with 62.5% of rosacea subjects in one study reacting to lactic acid in a sting test. This is why we mark citric acid as a potential rosacea trigger.
However, this ingredient shows up as a pH adjuster or chelator at roughly 0.1-1% in many products. These low levels are unlikely to be an issue for rosacea skin and becomes a potential trigger at exfoliating concentrations (20%). Because everybody's skin is unique, we recommend a patch test if you are unsure.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Octyldodecanol is a fatty alcohol sourced from plant oils like coconut or palm (or made synthetically).
It is:
You'll likely see this in many BHA products because this is the go-to solvent for salicylic acid.
This ingredient is typically used at levels between 2-20%.
Regarding fungal acne: In 2019, this ingredient was tested against multiple Malassezia species (the yeast that causes fungal acne) and showed no growth.
Parfum is a catch-all term for an ingredient or more that is used to give a scent to products.
Also called "fragrance", this ingredient can be a blend of hundreds of chemicals or plant oils. This means every product with "fragrance" or "parfum" in the ingredients list is a different mixture.
For instance, Habanolide is a proprietary trade name for a specific aroma chemical. When used as a fragrance ingredient in cosmetics, most aroma chemicals fall under the broad labeling category of “FRAGRANCE” or “PARFUM” according to EU and US regulations.
The term 'parfum' or 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term.
For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance by INCI standards.
One example is Calendula flower extract. Calendula is an essential oil that still imparts a scent or 'fragrance'.
Depending on the blend, the ingredients in the mixture can cause allergies and sensitivities on the skin. Some ingredients that are known EU allergens include linalool and citronellol.
Parfum can also be used to mask or cover an unpleasant scent.
The bottom line is: not all fragrances/parfum/ingredients are created equally. If you are worried about fragrances, we recommend taking a closer look at an ingredient. And of course, we always recommend speaking with a professional.
Tocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.
You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.
Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.
It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.
This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.
This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.
In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.
Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!