Skin science article
Laura Mercier Pure Canvas Primer Versus First Aid Beauty Ultra Repair Hyaluronic Hydrating Primer
Laura Mercier Pure Canvas Primer Versus First Aid Beauty Ultra Repair Hyaluronic Hydrating Primer What's inside Key Ingredients No key ingredients Benefits Concerns Ingredients Side-by-side Water Glycerin Butylene Glycol Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride Pyrus Malu
Laura Mercier Pure Canvas Primer Versus First Aid Beauty Ultra Repair Hyaluronic Hydrating Primer
What's inside
Key Ingredients
No key ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Glycerin
Butylene Glycol
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Pyrus Malus Fruit Extract
Isododecane
Neopentyl Glycol Diheptanoate
PPG-51/Smdi Copolymer
Rosa Centifolia Flower Extract
Rosa Multiflora Fruit Extract
Rhododendron Ferrugineum Extract
Sea Water
Phenoxyethanol
Polyurethane-35
Sorbeth-30 Tetraisostearate
Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer
Ethylhexyl Olivate
Dipropylene Glycol
Linoleic Acid
Phospholipids
Phytosterols
Sorbitan Sesquiisostearate
Acrylates/Beheneth-25 Methacrylate Copolymer
Xanthan Gum
PPG-8-Ceteth-20
Glyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer
Sodium Hydroxide
Squalane
Methylpropanediol
Tetrasodium EDTA
Sodium Citrate
Citric Acid
Caprylyl Glycol
Mica
Phenylpropanol
Iron Oxides
Water, Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Pyrus Malus Fruit Extract, Isododecane, Neopentyl Glycol Diheptanoate, PPG-51/Smdi Copolymer, Rosa Centifolia Flower Extract, Rosa Multiflora Fruit Extract, Rhododendron Ferrugineum Extract, Sea Water, Phenoxyethanol, Polyurethane-35, Sorbeth-30 Tetraisostearate, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Ethylhexyl Olivate, Dipropylene Glycol, Linoleic Acid, Phospholipids, Phytosterols, Sorbitan Sesquiisostearate, Acrylates/Beheneth-25 Methacrylate Copolymer, Xanthan Gum, PPG-8-Ceteth-20, Glyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer, Sodium Hydroxide, Squalane, Methylpropanediol, Tetrasodium EDTA, Sodium Citrate, Citric Acid, Caprylyl Glycol, Mica, Phenylpropanol, Iron Oxides
Cyclopentasiloxane
Coco-Caprylate/Caprate
Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer
C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate
Lauroyl Lysine
Sodium Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
Dimethicone Crosspolymer
Isohexadecane
CI 77891
Polysorbate 80
C12-14 Pareth-12
Ethylhexylglycerin
Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice
Disodium EDTA
Santalum Album Wood Extract
Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
Chrysanthemum Parthenium Extract
Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract
Chlorphenesin
Sodium Hyaluronate
Tin Oxide
Cucumis Melo Fruit Extract
Cucumis Sativus Fruit Extract
Prunus Armeniaca Fruit Extract
Rose Extract
Rubus Idaeus Fruit Extract
Tocopherol
Potassium Sorbate
Sodium Benzoate
Water, Cyclopentasiloxane, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Butylene Glycol, Glycerin, Lauroyl Lysine, Sodium Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Mica, Phenoxyethanol, Isohexadecane, CI 77891, Polysorbate 80, C12-14 Pareth-12, Ethylhexylglycerin, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Disodium EDTA, Santalum Album Wood Extract, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Chrysanthemum Parthenium Extract, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract, Chlorphenesin, Sodium Hyaluronate, Tin Oxide, Cucumis Melo Fruit Extract, Cucumis Sativus Fruit Extract, Prunus Armeniaca Fruit Extract, Pyrus Malus Fruit Extract, Rose Extract, Rubus Idaeus Fruit Extract, Tocopherol, Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Benzoate, Citric Acid, Sodium Hydroxide
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Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.
Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.
In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.
While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.
Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.
This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.
This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.
Citric Acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) naturally found in citrus fruits like oranges, lemons, and limes.
Like other AHAs, citric acid can exfoliate skin by breaking down the bonds that hold dead skin cells together. This helps reveal smoother and brighter skin underneath.
However, this exfoliating effect only happens at high concentrations (20%) which can be hard to find in cosmetic products.
Due to this, citric acid is usually included in small amounts as a pH adjuster. This helps keep products slightly more acidic and compatible with skin's natural pH.
In skincare formulas, citric acid can:
While it can provide some skin benefits, research shows lactic acid and glycolic acid are generally more effective and less irritating exfoliants.
Most citric acid used in skincare today is made by fermenting sugars (usually from molasses). This synthetic version is identical to the natural citrus form but easier to stabilize and use in formulations.
Rosacea skin has a lower threshold for acids generally, with 62.5% of rosacea subjects in one study reacting to lactic acid in a sting test. This is why we mark citric acid as a potential rosacea trigger.
However, this ingredient shows up as a pH adjuster or chelator at roughly 0.1-1% in many products. These low levels are unlikely to be an issue for rosacea skin and becomes a potential trigger at exfoliating concentrations (20%). Because everybody's skin is unique, we recommend a patch test if you are unsure.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Mica is a naturally occurring mineral used to add shimmer and color in cosmetics. It can also help improve the texture of a product or give it an opaque, white/silver color.
Serecite is the name for very fine but ragged grains of mica.
This ingredient is often coated with metal oxides like titanium dioxide. Trace amounts of heavy metals may be found in mica, but these metals are not harmful in our personal products.
Mica has been used since prehistoric times throughout the world. Ancient Egyptian, Indian, Greek, Roman, Aztec, and Chinese civilizations have used mica.
Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).
It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.
On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.
Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).
You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.
Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.
Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.
Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.
Pyrus Malus Fruit Extract is extract from Apples. Apples are rich in Vitamin C, sugars, and antioxidants.
The sugar in Apples are humectants and help hydrate the skin. On top of that, apples also contain some acids, such as malic acid. These acids may have a mild exfoliating effect.
Last, the phytochemicals found in apples are strong antioxidants. These antioxidants help with anti-aging as they protect your skin cells against oxidative damage.
Sodium Hydroxide is also known as lye or caustic soda. It is used to adjust the pH of products; many ingredients require a specific pH to be effective.
In small amounts, sodium hydroxide is considered safe to use. However, large amounts may cause chemical burns due to its high alkaline.
Your skin has a natural pH and acid mantle. This acid mantle helps prevent harmful bacteria from breaking through. The acid mantle also helps keep your skin hydrated.
"Alkaline" refers to a high pH level. A low pH level would be considered acidic.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!