Skin science article
Mad Hippie Triple C Night Cream Versus First Aid Beauty Ultra Repair Hydra-Firm Night Cream
Mad Hippie Triple C Night Cream Versus First Aid Beauty Ultra Repair Hydra-Firm Night Cream This brightening night moisturizer is formulated around Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate and Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate to brighten dull-looking skin. This anti-aging night
Mad Hippie Triple C Night Cream Versus First Aid Beauty Ultra Repair Hydra-Firm Night Cream
This brightening night moisturizer is formulated around Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate and Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate to brighten dull-looking skin.
This anti-aging night moisturizer is formulated around Butyrospermum Parkii Butter and Niacinamide to soften the look of wrinkles and hydrate skin.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Carthamus Tinctorius Seed Oil
Isopropyl Palmitate
Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate
Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate
Ascorbyl Glucoside
Cetyl Alcohol
Glycerin
Polyglyceryl-2 Stearate
Glyceryl Stearate
Stearyl Alcohol
Stearic Acid
Inonotus Obliquus Extract
Ganoderma Lucidum Extract
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
Phenethyl Alcohol
Caprylyl Glycol
Ethylhexylglycerin
Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract
Rubus Chamaemorus Fruit Extract
Ribes Nigrum Seed Oil
Squalane
Sodium PCA
Xanthan Gum
Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Peel Oil
Hyaluronic Acid
Tocopherol
Curcuma Longa Root Extract
Chlorella Pyrenoidosa Extract
Allantoin
Ceramide NP
Riboflavin
Water, Carthamus Tinctorius Seed Oil, Isopropyl Palmitate, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Ascorbyl Glucoside, Cetyl Alcohol, Glycerin, Polyglyceryl-2 Stearate, Glyceryl Stearate, Stearyl Alcohol, Stearic Acid, Inonotus Obliquus Extract, Ganoderma Lucidum Extract, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Phenethyl Alcohol, Caprylyl Glycol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract, Rubus Chamaemorus Fruit Extract, Ribes Nigrum Seed Oil, Squalane, Sodium PCA, Xanthan Gum, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Peel Oil, Hyaluronic Acid, Tocopherol, Curcuma Longa Root Extract, Chlorella Pyrenoidosa Extract, Allantoin, Ceramide NP, Riboflavin
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Dimethicone
C10-18 Triglycerides
Ethylhexyl Palmitate
Lactobacillus Ferment
Jojoba Esters
Niacinamide
Spilanthes Acmella Flower Extract
Helianthus Annuus Seed Cera
Acacia Decurrens Flower Cera
Algae Extract
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38
Sodium Hyaluronate
Avena Sativa Kernel Flour
Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12
Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7
Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
Chrysanthemum Parthenium Extract
Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract
Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin
Sodium Lactate
Butylene Glycol
PEG-75 Stearate
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Ceteth-20
Steareth-20
Polyglycerin-3
Carbomer
Polysorbate 20
Phenoxyethanol
Tetrasodium EDTA
Sodium Hydroxide
Water, Glycerin, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Dimethicone, Glyceryl Stearate, C10-18 Triglycerides, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Lactobacillus Ferment, Jojoba Esters, Cetyl Alcohol, Niacinamide, Spilanthes Acmella Flower Extract, Helianthus Annuus Seed Cera, Acacia Decurrens Flower Cera, Algae Extract, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38, Sodium Hyaluronate, Avena Sativa Kernel Flour, Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Chrysanthemum Parthenium Extract, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract, Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin, Sodium Lactate, Butylene Glycol, PEG-75 Stearate, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Ceteth-20, Steareth-20, Polyglycerin-3, Carbomer, Polysorbate 20, Phenoxyethanol, Xanthan Gum, Tetrasodium EDTA, Sodium Hydroxide
Reviews
Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
This ingredient is also known as shea butter. It is a plant-derived extract from the nuts of the Africa shea tree and one of the most well-studied emollients.
Because it has a high concentration of fatty acids (primarily oleic, stearic, and linoleic) it is able to form a protective barrier on the skin's surface. This helps seal in moisture and prevents transepidermal water loss (TEWL).
In vitro research found an increase in skin hydration by 58% and a decrease in TEWL by 37.8% after 24 hours of applying this ingredient (pretty impressive for a single ingredient!).
Besides hydration, shea butter also contains triterpenes that have anti-inflammatory potential. In particule, lupeol cinnamate has shown the highest anti-inflammatory activity in vivo.
Shea butter also contains vitamins A and E which may contribute to antioxidant activity.
While Shea Butter has an SPF rating of about 3-4, it is not a sunscreen replacement.
This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe because its fatty acids fall within the C11-C24 range that the Malassezia yeast can metabolize.
Cetyl Alcohol is a fatty alcohol. Fatty Alcohols are most often used as an emollient or to thicken a product.
Its main roles are:
Though it has "alcohol" in the name, it is not related to denatured alcohol or ethyl alcohol.
The FDA allows products labeled "alcohol-free" to have fatty alcohols.
This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe. It is a primary fatty alcohol with a chain length above 12 carbons. A study from 2019 show Malassezia can feed on fatty alcohols in this range, so it may trigger fungal acne in those prone to it.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Glyceryl Stearate is made by reacting glycerin with stearic acid (typically sourced from plant oils like palm or coconut). It's an emulsifier, emollient, and mild occlusive.
Emulsifiers help ingredients like oil and water stay mixed so your formula stays nicely blended and uniform in texture.
This ingredient is typically used in concentrations between 1-10%. Studies have found it to be non-sensitizing, non-phototoxic, and non-photoallergenic.
A close cousin of this ingredient is Glyceryl Stearate SE ("self-emulsifying"). This just has a small amount of sodium or potassium stearate added so it can emulsify without a co-emulsifier.
Since this ingredient is an ester of a C18 fatty acid, it may not be fungal acne safe. The Malassezia yeast can potentially metabolize within the C11-C24 range.
Fun fact: The human body also creates Glyceryl Stearate naturally.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Xanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.
On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.
Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.