Skin science article
MAKE Beauty Lip Reset Overnight Lip Mask Versus Eadem Le Chouchou Exfoliating + Softening Peptide Lip Balm
MAKE Beauty Lip Reset Overnight Lip Mask Versus Eadem Le Chouchou Exfoliating + Softening Peptide Lip Balm This hydrating lip mask is formulated around Butyrospermum Parkii Butter and Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil to hydrate lips and strengthen the lip barrier
MAKE Beauty Lip Reset Overnight Lip Mask Versus Eadem Le Chouchou Exfoliating + Softening Peptide Lip Balm
This hydrating lip mask is formulated around Butyrospermum Parkii Butter and Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil to hydrate lips and strengthen the lip barrier.
This smoothing lip moisturizer is formulated around Lactic Acid and Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 to refine skin texture.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Diisostearyl Malate
Hydrogenated Poly(C6-14 Olefin)
Polybutene
Phytosteryl/Isostearyl/Cetyl/Stearyl/Behenyl Dimer Dilinoleate
Microcrystalline Wax
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
Synthetic Wax
Isostearyl Alcohol
Ethylene/Propylene/Styrene Copolymer
Persea Gratissima Oil
Olea Europaea Leaf Extract
Glycerin
Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
Theobroma Grandiflorum Seed Butter
Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate
Sodium Hyaluronate
Copernicia Cerifera Wax
Diethylhexyl Syringylidenemalonate
Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate
Caprylic/Capric Glycerides
Butylene/Ethylene/Styrene Copolymer
Ricinus Communis Seed Oil
Cyamopsis Tetragonoloba Gum
Xanthan Gum
Parfum
Siraitia Grosvenorii Fruit Extract
Tocopheryl Acetate
Hydrogenated Castor Oil
Isopropyl Titanium Triisostearate
CI 19140
Titanium Dioxide
Citric Acid
Tocopherol
Benzyl Alcohol
Benzyl Benzoate
Limonene
Linalool
Diisostearyl Malate, Hydrogenated Poly(C6-14 Olefin), Polybutene, Phytosteryl/Isostearyl/Cetyl/Stearyl/Behenyl Dimer Dilinoleate, Microcrystalline Wax, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Synthetic Wax, Isostearyl Alcohol, Ethylene/Propylene/Styrene Copolymer, Persea Gratissima Oil, Olea Europaea Leaf Extract, Glycerin, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Theobroma Grandiflorum Seed Butter, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Sodium Hyaluronate, Copernicia Cerifera Wax, Diethylhexyl Syringylidenemalonate, Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate, Caprylic/Capric Glycerides, Butylene/Ethylene/Styrene Copolymer, Ricinus Communis Seed Oil, Cyamopsis Tetragonoloba Gum, Xanthan Gum, Parfum, Siraitia Grosvenorii Fruit Extract, Tocopheryl Acetate, Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Isopropyl Titanium Triisostearate, CI 19140, Titanium Dioxide, Citric Acid, Tocopherol, Benzyl Alcohol, Benzyl Benzoate, Limonene, Linalool
Hydrogenated Polyisobutene
Tridecyl Trimellitate
Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2
Methyl Hydrogenated Rosinate
Polyphenylsilsesquioxane
Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate
Silica Silylate
Vp/Hexadecene Copolymer
Hibiscus Sabdariffa Flower Extract
Euterpe Oleracea Fruit Oil
Schinziophyton Rautanenii Kernel Oil
Moringa Oil/Hydrogenated Moringa Oil Esters
Water
Ethylhexyl Palmitate
Octyldodecanol
Aroma
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Tribehenin
Sorbitan Isostearate
Propylene Carbonate
Stearalkonium Hectorite
Lactic Acid
Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1
Iron Oxides
CI 77891
CI 15850
Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, Diisostearyl Malate, Tridecyl Trimellitate, Phytosteryl/Isostearyl/Cetyl/Stearyl/Behenyl Dimer Dilinoleate, Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2, Methyl Hydrogenated Rosinate, Polyphenylsilsesquioxane, Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate, Ethylene/Propylene/Styrene Copolymer, Synthetic Wax, Silica Silylate, Vp/Hexadecene Copolymer, Hibiscus Sabdariffa Flower Extract, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Euterpe Oleracea Fruit Oil, Schinziophyton Rautanenii Kernel Oil, Tocopherol, Microcrystalline Wax, Moringa Oil/Hydrogenated Moringa Oil Esters, Isostearyl Alcohol, Water, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Octyldodecanol, Aroma, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Tribehenin, Sorbitan Isostearate, Propylene Carbonate, Stearalkonium Hectorite, Lactic Acid, Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Butylene/Ethylene/Styrene Copolymer, Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate, Linalool, Iron Oxides, CI 77891, CI 15850, CI 19140
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Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
This ingredient is a high-molecular weight synthetic polymer. It is used to modify the viscosity of a formula, improve slip, and create a more "cushiony" texture.
Due to its large molecular size, this ingredient is not absorbed into the skin.
This ingredient is also known as shea butter. It is a plant-derived extract from the nuts of the Africa shea tree and one of the most well-studied emollients.
Because it has a high concentration of fatty acids (primarily oleic, stearic, and linoleic) it is able to form a protective barrier on the skin's surface. This helps seal in moisture and prevents transepidermal water loss (TEWL).
In vitro research found an increase in skin hydration by 58% and a decrease in TEWL by 37.8% after 24 hours of applying this ingredient (pretty impressive for a single ingredient!).
Besides hydration, shea butter also contains triterpenes that have anti-inflammatory potential. In particule, lupeol cinnamate has shown the highest anti-inflammatory activity in vivo.
Shea butter also contains vitamins A and E which may contribute to antioxidant activity.
While Shea Butter has an SPF rating of about 3-4, it is not a sunscreen replacement.
This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe because its fatty acids fall within the C11-C24 range that the Malassezia yeast can metabolize.
CI 19140 is also known as Tartrazine. Tartrazine is a synthetic dye used in cosmetics, foods, and medicine to add a yellow color.
Tartrazine is created from petroleum and is water-soluble.
Some people may experience allergies from this dye, especially asthmatics and those with an aspirin intolerance.
Diisostearyl Malate is an emollient and most often used in lip products. It comes from isostearyl alcohol, a fatty acid, and malic acid, an AHA.
As an emollient, Diisostearyl Malate helps create a thin film on your skin to trap moisture in. This helps keep your skin soft and smooth.
This is a synthetic polymer used to thicken formulas, improve texture, and enhance spreadability.
Due to its large molecule size, this ingredient does not penetrate the skin and is considered well-tolerated.
Isostearyl Alcohol is a type of fatty alcohol. It's made by hydrogenating isostearic acid from plant oils (usually coconut or soybean)
Though it has "alcohol" in the name, it is not the same as solvent alcohols like alcohol denatured.
It has three roles in skincare:
Clinical patch testing found 25% of Isostearyl Alcohol in petrolatum showed only mild irritation in a small minority (your product will not have nearly as high of an amount).
This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe because it sits in the C11-C24 range that feeds the Malassezia yeast.
One last thing, the FDA allows "alcohol-free" products to contain fatty alcohols.
Linalool is a fragrance and helps add scent to products. It's derived from common plants such as cinnamon, mint, citrus, and lavender.
Like Limonene, this ingredient oxidizes when exposed to air. Oxidized linalool can cause allergies and skin sensitivity.
This ingredient has a scent that is floral, spicy tropical, and citrus-like.
Microcrystalline Wax is derived from petroleum through a de-oiling process, then highly refined and purified before use in cosmetics.
In skincare formulations, it is used to improve texture and create a smooth, even consistency. It also helps stabilize products by preventing ingredients from separating.
Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate (long name, huh?) is a synthetic antioxidant.
It is used to help stabilize other antioxidants or prevent the color from changing in a product.
As an antioxidant, it helps fight free-radical molecules. Free-radical molecules are capable of damaging our cells and other genetic material. Thus, antioxidants may reduce the signs of aging.
This ingredient is oil-soluble.
This is a plant-derived ester that functions as a skin conditioner. It's basically a two linoleic acid molecules combined with fatty alcohols.
In practice, it works as a rich emollient that helps reduce moisture loss and give skin a soft appearance.
The phytosterol part of this ingredient brings an added structural bonus: phytosterols are structurally similar to cholesterol so they can fit right into the stratum corneum's lipid matrix to help reinforce the skin barrier.
Due to its molecular structure, this ingredient delivers a cushiony and glossy feeling without being excessively greasy.
It did not produce skin irritation or sensitization in clinical studies, and this ingredient is deemed safe to use in cosmetics at current practices.
Because this ingredient contains C16, C18, and C22 fatty chains, it may not be Malassezia/fungal acne safe. The Malassezia yeast potentially feeds on fatty acids in the C11-C24 range.
Synthetic Wax is a manufactured hydrocarbon wax. In formulas, it works as an occlusive emollient that helps reduce water loss and improves the spreadability of products.
Research comparing synthetic wax to traditional mineral-derived products found that formulas containing it perform as well for skin hydration.
It is considered non-comedogenic and vegan-friendly.
This ingredient has a well-established safety record by the CIR Expert Panel for Cosmetic Ingredient Safety.
Synthetic Waxes are straight/branched-chain hydrocarbons with no ester bond or fatty acids. That means there is nothing for the Malassezia yeast to feed on.
Tocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.
You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.
Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.
It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.
This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.
This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.
In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.
Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.