Naturium Phyto-Glow Lip Balm Versus Eadem Le Chouchou Exfoliating + Softening Peptide Lip Balm

Naturium Phyto-Glow Lip Balm Versus Eadem Le Chouchou Exfoliating + Softening Peptide Lip Balm

This barrier-repair lip moisturizer is formulated around Butyrospermum Parkii Butter and Squalane to strengthen the lip barrier and hydrate lips.

This smoothing lip moisturizer is formulated around Lactic Acid and Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 to refine skin texture.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Phytosteryl/Isostearyl/Cetyl/Stearyl/Behenyl Dimer Dilinoleate

Diisostearyl Malate

Hydrogenated Polyisobutene

Polybutene

Polyglyceryl-2 Diisostearate

Butyrospermum Parkii Butter

Microcrystalline Wax

Aroma

Synthetic Wax

Mica

Ricinus Communis Seed Oil

Squalane

Theobroma Grandiflorum Seed Butter

Isopropyl Titanium Triisostearate

Tocopherol

Citric Acid

Titanium Dioxide

Iron Oxides

CI 15850

Blue 1 Lake

CI 19140

Phytosteryl/Isostearyl/Cetyl/Stearyl/Behenyl Dimer Dilinoleate, Diisostearyl Malate, Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, Polybutene, Polyglyceryl-2 Diisostearate, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Microcrystalline Wax, Aroma, Synthetic Wax, Mica, Ricinus Communis Seed Oil, Squalane, Theobroma Grandiflorum Seed Butter, Isopropyl Titanium Triisostearate, Tocopherol, Citric Acid, Titanium Dioxide, Iron Oxides, CI 15850, Blue 1 Lake, CI 19140

Tridecyl Trimellitate

Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2

Methyl Hydrogenated Rosinate

Polyphenylsilsesquioxane

Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate

Ethylene/Propylene/Styrene Copolymer

Silica Silylate

Vp/Hexadecene Copolymer

Hibiscus Sabdariffa Flower Extract

Euterpe Oleracea Fruit Oil

Schinziophyton Rautanenii Kernel Oil

Moringa Oil/Hydrogenated Moringa Oil Esters

Isostearyl Alcohol

Water

Ethylhexyl Palmitate

Octyldodecanol

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Tribehenin

Sorbitan Isostearate

Propylene Carbonate

Stearalkonium Hectorite

Lactic Acid

Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1

Butylene/Ethylene/Styrene Copolymer

Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate

Linalool

CI 77891

Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, Diisostearyl Malate, Tridecyl Trimellitate, Phytosteryl/Isostearyl/Cetyl/Stearyl/Behenyl Dimer Dilinoleate, Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2, Methyl Hydrogenated Rosinate, Polyphenylsilsesquioxane, Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate, Ethylene/Propylene/Styrene Copolymer, Synthetic Wax, Silica Silylate, Vp/Hexadecene Copolymer, Hibiscus Sabdariffa Flower Extract, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Euterpe Oleracea Fruit Oil, Schinziophyton Rautanenii Kernel Oil, Tocopherol, Microcrystalline Wax, Moringa Oil/Hydrogenated Moringa Oil Esters, Isostearyl Alcohol, Water, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Octyldodecanol, Aroma, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Tribehenin, Sorbitan Isostearate, Propylene Carbonate, Stearalkonium Hectorite, Lactic Acid, Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Butylene/Ethylene/Styrene Copolymer, Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate, Linalool, Iron Oxides, CI 77891, CI 15850, CI 19140

Reviews

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Aroma refers to an ingredient, or mixture of ingredients, that impart or mask a flavor.

The name is slightly confusing. This is because INCI associates aroma with flavor instead of smell.

Here is the official definition from the The International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook:

“Aroma is a term for ingredient labeling used to identify that a product contains a material or combination of materials normally added to a cosmetic to produce or to mask a particular flavor.”

INCI shows the only purpose of aroma to be "flavouring".

However, due to regulation differences, some companies may use aroma in place of parfum.

In Canada, this ingredient only has to be listed in concentrations above 1%.

This ingredient is also known as shea butter. It is a plant-derived extract from the nuts of the Africa shea tree and one of the most well-studied emollients.

Because it has a high concentration of fatty acids (primarily oleic, stearic, and linoleic) it is able to form a protective barrier on the skin's surface. This helps seal in moisture and prevents transepidermal water loss (TEWL).

In vitro research found an increase in skin hydration by 58% and a decrease in TEWL by 37.8% after 24 hours of applying this ingredient (pretty impressive for a single ingredient!).

Besides hydration, shea butter also contains triterpenes that have anti-inflammatory potential. In particule, lupeol cinnamate has shown the highest anti-inflammatory activity in vivo.

Shea butter also contains vitamins A and E which may contribute to antioxidant activity.

While Shea Butter has an SPF rating of about 3-4, it is not a sunscreen replacement.

This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe because its fatty acids fall within the C11-C24 range that the Malassezia yeast can metabolize.

Ci 15850 is the pigment color red. It is an azo dye and created synthetically.

Azo dyes need to be thoroughly purified before use. This allows them to be more stable and longer-lasting.

This ingredient is common in foundations, lipsticks, and blushes. This color is described as brown/orangey red.

It has many secondary names such as Red 6 and Red 7. According to a manufacturer, Red 6 usually contains aluminum.

CI 19140 is also known as Tartrazine. Tartrazine is a synthetic dye used in cosmetics, foods, and medicine to add a yellow color.

Tartrazine is created from petroleum and is water-soluble.

Some people may experience allergies from this dye, especially asthmatics and those with an aspirin intolerance.

Diisostearyl Malate is an emollient and most often used in lip products. It comes from isostearyl alcohol, a fatty acid, and malic acid, an AHA.

As an emollient, Diisostearyl Malate helps create a thin film on your skin to trap moisture in. This helps keep your skin soft and smooth.

Hydrogenated Polyisobutene is a synthetic polymer. Polymers are compounds with high molecular weight. Hydrogenated Polyisobutene is an emollient and texture enhancer.

In one study, Hydrogenated Polyisobutene showed better skin hydration levels than Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride. As an emollient, it helps keep your skin soft and hydrated by trapping moisture in.

Hydrogenated Polyisobutene is often used as a mineral oil replacement.

Microcrystalline Wax is derived from petroleum through a de-oiling process, then highly refined and purified before use in cosmetics.

In skincare formulations, it is used to improve texture and create a smooth, even consistency. It also helps stabilize products by preventing ingredients from separating.

This is a plant-derived ester that functions as a skin conditioner. It's basically a two linoleic acid molecules combined with fatty alcohols.

In practice, it works as a rich emollient that helps reduce moisture loss and give skin a soft appearance.

The phytosterol part of this ingredient brings an added structural bonus: phytosterols are structurally similar to cholesterol so they can fit right into the stratum corneum's lipid matrix to help reinforce the skin barrier.

Due to its molecular structure, this ingredient delivers a cushiony and glossy feeling without being excessively greasy.

It did not produce skin irritation or sensitization in clinical studies, and this ingredient is deemed safe to use in cosmetics at current practices.

Because this ingredient contains C16, C18, and C22 fatty chains, it may not be Malassezia/fungal acne safe. The Malassezia yeast potentially feeds on fatty acids in the C11-C24 range.

Synthetic Wax is a manufactured hydrocarbon wax. In formulas, it works as an occlusive emollient that helps reduce water loss and improves the spreadability of products.

Research comparing synthetic wax to traditional mineral-derived products found that formulas containing it perform as well for skin hydration.

It is considered non-comedogenic and vegan-friendly.

This ingredient has a well-established safety record by the CIR Expert Panel for Cosmetic Ingredient Safety.

Synthetic Waxes are straight/branched-chain hydrocarbons with no ester bond or fatty acids. That means there is nothing for the Malassezia yeast to feed on.

Tocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.

You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.

Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.

It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.

This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.

This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.

In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.

Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.

This ingredient is a combination of red, black, and yellow iron oxide pigments. This combination of colors is usually found in foundation, because it results in a "skin" color.

The EU typically uses CI numbers for colorants when applicable, such as CI 77489. In the US, iron oxides are regulated as color additives and "iron oxides" is the most commonly used name in US cosmetic practice.

A 2021 paper looked at skincare formulations containing iron oxides and found that they reduced transmission of blue light when measured optically. In simple terms, the pigment particles helped block or scatter part of the visible light spectrum in lab testing and the authors suggest this could translate into better protection against blue-light-related skin effects.

There is also clinical and experimental research showing that tinted products containing iron oxides can reduce visible light-induced pigmentation:

Please note, whether a product reduces visible or blue light depends on things like:

In the EU's CosIng database, iron oxides are only listed as a colorant. CosIng groups ingredients by their main cosmetic role, such as colorant, preservative, or UV filter.

Though studies say iron oxides can "attenuate blue light", they're describing an optical property and not an officially recognized cosmetic function.

So CosIng isn’t contradicting the research. It’s just classifying iron oxides by what they officially are: pigments that add color.

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