Skin science article
Mary Kay TimeWise Repair Volu-Firm® Advanced Lifting Serum Versus Paula's Choice 1% Retinol Booster
Mary Kay TimeWise Repair Volu-Firm® Advanced Lifting Serum Versus Paula's Choice 1% Retinol Booster This anti-aging serum is formulated around Tripeptide-1 to soften the look of wrinkles. This anti-aging treatment is formulated around Retinol and Ceramide NP t
Mary Kay TimeWise Repair Volu-Firm® Advanced Lifting Serum Versus Paula's Choice 1% Retinol Booster
This anti-aging serum is formulated around Tripeptide-1 to soften the look of wrinkles.
This anti-aging treatment is formulated around Retinol and Ceramide NP to soften the look of wrinkles and refine skin texture.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Cyclopentasiloxane
Water
Silica
Glycerin
PEG-10 Dimethicone
Dimethicone
Polymethylsilsesquioxane
Polysilicone-11
Pentylene Glycol
Hdi/Trimethylol Hexyllactone Crosspolymer
Phenoxyethanol
Butylene Glycol
Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer
Vp/Va Copolymer
Polysorbate 40
Sorbitol
Mica
Caprylyl Glycol
Chlorphenesin
Alpinia Galanga Leaf Extract
Menthyl Lactate
Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin
Sodium Chloride
Secale Cereale Seed Extract
Centella Asiatica Meristem Cell Culture
Cyclohexasiloxane
Disodium EDTA
Triethanolamine
Dihydroxy Methylchromone
Pisum Sativum Extract
Schisandra Chinensis Fruit Extract
Xanthan Gum
Caprylic Acid
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Sodium Citrate
Tin Oxide
Iodopropynyl Butylcarbamate
Cyclodextrin
Maltodextrin
Alteromonas Ferment Filtrate
Tocopherol
Dextran
Tripeptide-1
CI 77891
Cyclopentasiloxane, Water, Silica, Glycerin, PEG-10 Dimethicone, Dimethicone, Polymethylsilsesquioxane, Polysilicone-11, Pentylene Glycol, Hdi/Trimethylol Hexyllactone Crosspolymer, Phenoxyethanol, Butylene Glycol, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Vp/Va Copolymer, Polysorbate 40, Sorbitol, Mica, Caprylyl Glycol, Chlorphenesin, Alpinia Galanga Leaf Extract, Menthyl Lactate, Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin, Sodium Chloride, Secale Cereale Seed Extract, Centella Asiatica Meristem Cell Culture, Cyclohexasiloxane, Disodium EDTA, Triethanolamine, Dihydroxy Methylchromone, Pisum Sativum Extract, Schisandra Chinensis Fruit Extract, Xanthan Gum, Caprylic Acid, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Sodium Citrate, Tin Oxide, Iodopropynyl Butylcarbamate, Cyclodextrin, Maltodextrin, Alteromonas Ferment Filtrate, Tocopherol, Dextran, Tripeptide-1, CI 77891
Carthamus Tinctorius Seed Oil
Polyglyceryl-10 Caprylate/Caprate
Pyrus Malus Fruit Extract
Polysorbate 20
Retinol
Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root
Ceramide NP
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1
Avena Sativa Kernel Extract
Epilobium Angustifolium Extract
Arctium Lappa Seed Oil
Salix Alba Extract
Allantoin
Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate
Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate
Dipentaerythrityl Hexacaprylate/Hexacaprate
Ethylhexyl Olivate
Hydrogenated Lecithin
Glyceryl Ascorbate
Sorbic Acid
Water, Glycerin, Carthamus Tinctorius Seed Oil, Polyglyceryl-10 Caprylate/Caprate, Butylene Glycol, Pyrus Malus Fruit Extract, Polysorbate 20, Retinol, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root, Ceramide NP, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Avena Sativa Kernel Extract, Epilobium Angustifolium Extract, Arctium Lappa Seed Oil, Salix Alba Extract, Allantoin, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Caprylyl Glycol, Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate, Dipentaerythrityl Hexacaprylate/Hexacaprate, Ethylhexyl Olivate, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Glyceryl Ascorbate, Disodium EDTA, Sorbic Acid, Xanthan Gum, Phenoxyethanol
Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Caprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.
Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.
Because it is not a free-fatty acid, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).
Disodium EDTA is a chelating agent. It grabs onto and deactivates metal ions that sneak into your products from water, packaging, or air.
This ingredient mainly works behind the scenes and helps with:
On top of that, this ingredient can counteract the effects of hard water by binding to the minerals in it.
One thing worth knowing is that Disodium EDTA has been shown to be a mild penetration enhancer. It can help other ingredients absorb into skin more effectively which can be a double-edged sword (great for actives, but can also make the active too strong if you have sensitive skin).
Clinical patch testing showed no significant skin irritation at typical use concentrations and minimal dermal absorption.
You'll most likely see this ingredient near the end of an ingredient list. It's typically found in concentrations less than 1%.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).
It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.
On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.
Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).
You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.
Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.
Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.
Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Xanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.
On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.
Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.