Skin science article
Mary Kay TimeWise Repair Volu-Firm® Advanced Lifting Serum Versus Peter Thomas Roth Peptide 21 Wrinkle Resist Serum
Mary Kay TimeWise Repair Volu-Firm® Advanced Lifting Serum Versus Peter Thomas Roth Peptide 21 Wrinkle Resist Serum This anti-aging serum is formulated around Tripeptide-1 to soften the look of wrinkles. This anti-aging serum is formulated around Tripeptide-10
Mary Kay TimeWise Repair Volu-Firm® Advanced Lifting Serum Versus Peter Thomas Roth Peptide 21 Wrinkle Resist Serum
This anti-aging serum is formulated around Tripeptide-1 to soften the look of wrinkles.
This anti-aging serum is formulated around Tripeptide-10 Citrulline and Acetyl Octapeptide-3 to soften the look of wrinkles.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Cyclopentasiloxane
Water
Silica
Glycerin
PEG-10 Dimethicone
Dimethicone
Polymethylsilsesquioxane
Polysilicone-11
Pentylene Glycol
Hdi/Trimethylol Hexyllactone Crosspolymer
Phenoxyethanol
Butylene Glycol
Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer
Vp/Va Copolymer
Polysorbate 40
Sorbitol
Mica
Caprylyl Glycol
Chlorphenesin
Alpinia Galanga Leaf Extract
Menthyl Lactate
Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin
Sodium Chloride
Secale Cereale Seed Extract
Centella Asiatica Meristem Cell Culture
Cyclohexasiloxane
Disodium EDTA
Triethanolamine
Dihydroxy Methylchromone
Pisum Sativum Extract
Schisandra Chinensis Fruit Extract
Xanthan Gum
Caprylic Acid
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Sodium Citrate
Tin Oxide
Iodopropynyl Butylcarbamate
Cyclodextrin
Maltodextrin
Alteromonas Ferment Filtrate
Tocopherol
Dextran
Tripeptide-1
CI 77891
Cyclopentasiloxane, Water, Silica, Glycerin, PEG-10 Dimethicone, Dimethicone, Polymethylsilsesquioxane, Polysilicone-11, Pentylene Glycol, Hdi/Trimethylol Hexyllactone Crosspolymer, Phenoxyethanol, Butylene Glycol, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Vp/Va Copolymer, Polysorbate 40, Sorbitol, Mica, Caprylyl Glycol, Chlorphenesin, Alpinia Galanga Leaf Extract, Menthyl Lactate, Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin, Sodium Chloride, Secale Cereale Seed Extract, Centella Asiatica Meristem Cell Culture, Cyclohexasiloxane, Disodium EDTA, Triethanolamine, Dihydroxy Methylchromone, Pisum Sativum Extract, Schisandra Chinensis Fruit Extract, Xanthan Gum, Caprylic Acid, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Sodium Citrate, Tin Oxide, Iodopropynyl Butylcarbamate, Cyclodextrin, Maltodextrin, Alteromonas Ferment Filtrate, Tocopherol, Dextran, Tripeptide-1, CI 77891
Rosa Centifolia Flower Water
Isopropyl Myristate
Squalane
Mannitol
Natto Gum
Tripeptide-10 Citrulline
Acetyl Octapeptide-3
Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12
Acetyl Tetrapeptide-11
Acetyl Hexapeptide-8
Acetyl Hexapeptide-1
Palmitoyl Oligopeptide
Acetyl Tetrapeptide-9
Acetyl Tetrapeptide-2
Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7
Hexapeptide-11
Dipeptide Diaminobutyroyl Benzylamide Diacetate
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5
Trifluoroacetyl Tripeptide-2
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1
Sodium Polyglutamate
Sodium Hyaluronate
Tocopheryl Acetate
Retinyl Palmitate
Ascorbic Acid
Hydrolyzed Soy Protein
Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein
Lecithin
Pseudoalteromonas Ferment Extract
Acrylates Copolymer
Magnesium Chloride
Polysorbate 20
Dimethyl Isosorbide
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate
PEG-8 Dimethicone
Disodium Phosphate
Carbomer
Sodium Lactate
Tetradecyl Aminobutyroylvalylaminobutyric Urea Trifluoroacetate
Sodium Phosphate
Octyldodecanol
Sodium Propoxyhydroxypropyl Thiosulfate Silica
Sodium Hydroxide
Potassium Sorbate
Sodium Benzoate
Water, Glycerin, Rosa Centifolia Flower Water, Isopropyl Myristate, Squalane, Mannitol, Butylene Glycol, Natto Gum, Tripeptide-10 Citrulline, Acetyl Octapeptide-3, Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-11, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Acetyl Hexapeptide-1, Palmitoyl Oligopeptide, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-9, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-2, Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Hexapeptide-11, Dipeptide Diaminobutyroyl Benzylamide Diacetate, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5, Trifluoroacetyl Tripeptide-2, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Sodium Polyglutamate, Sodium Hyaluronate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Retinyl Palmitate, Ascorbic Acid, Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Lecithin, Pseudoalteromonas Ferment Extract, Acrylates Copolymer, Magnesium Chloride, Polysorbate 20, Dimethyl Isosorbide, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, PEG-8 Dimethicone, Disodium Phosphate, Carbomer, Dextran, Sodium Lactate, Tetradecyl Aminobutyroylvalylaminobutyric Urea Trifluoroacetate, Xanthan Gum, Triethanolamine, Sodium Phosphate, Octyldodecanol, Silica, Sodium Propoxyhydroxypropyl Thiosulfate Silica, Sodium Hydroxide, Caprylyl Glycol, Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Benzoate, Phenoxyethanol
Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Caprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.
Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.
Because it is not a free-fatty acid, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).
Dextran is a sugar (polysaccharide) with skin hydrating properties.
Fun fact: Louis Pasteur first discovered this ingredient as a microbial product in wine.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).
It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.
On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.
Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).
You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.
Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.
Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.
Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.
Silica, also known as silicon dioxide, is a naturally occurring mineral. It is used as a fine, spherical, and porous powder in cosmetics.
Though it has exfoliant properties, the function of silica varies depending on the product.
The unique structure of silica enhances the spreadability and adds smoothness, making it a great texture enhancer.
It is also used as an active carrier, emulsifier, and mattifier due to its ability to absorb excess oil.
In some products, tiny microneedles called spicules are made from silica or hydrolyzed sponge. When you rub them in, they lightly polish away dead skin layers and enhance the penetration of active ingredients.
Triethanolamine (TEA) is an emulsifier and pH adjuster. It is created using ethylene oxide and ammonia. This gives Triethanolamine a nitrogen core and a similar scent to ammonia.
As an emulsifier, it prevents ingredients from separating and enhances texture by adding volume to a product.
PH adjusters are common in cosmetic products. The pH of a product can affect the effectiveness of other ingredients. A product with a high pH may also irritate the skin.
If you are looking for the tea leaf ingredient, click here.
Tripeptide-1, also known as GHK), is a small, three-amino-acid peptide made up of glycine, histidine, and lysine.
This ingredient is a signal peptide and tell your skin to start producing fresh collagen, elastin, and other key structural proteins. This helps maintain firmness and reduces the look of fine-lines/wrinkles.
GHK is also unique because is also acts as a carrier peptide. It binds to and transports copper ions (forming the complex GHK-Cu). This form has been studied for decades and is known to stimulate wound healing, boost antioxidant defenses, and promote collagen/elastin synthesis.
In-vitro studies show both GHK and GHK-CU increase fibroblast activity that enhances the production of collagen, elastin, fibronectin, and other extracellular matrix components.
Both of these compounds also help balance enzymes that control collagen breakdown.
Human studies (in-vivo) using GHK-Cu creams have reported visible improvements to skin density, elasticity, and wrinkle depth after several weeks of use.
A small clinical study also found topical collagen tripeptide improved wrinkle appearance and skin elasticity in women after four weeks.
While these results are promising, most research is based on GHK-Cu or its derivatives rather than Tripeptide-1 alone (Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 is a famous derivative of GHK). However, the consensus still supports GHK as a potent skin-signaling molecule that can encourage regeneration and maintain youthful looking skin.
Fun fact: GHK is a naturally occurring fragment of type 1 collagen that can be found in human plasma, saliva, and urine.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Xanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.
On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.
Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.