Skin science article
MEDI-PEEL Anti-aging Toner with Glutathione Versus MEDI-PEEL Peptide-Tox Bor Toner
MEDI-PEEL Anti-aging Toner with Glutathione Versus MEDI-PEEL Peptide-Tox Bor Toner This anti-aging toner is formulated around Niacinamide and Glutathione to soften the look of wrinkles and brighten dull-looking skin. This anti-aging toner is formulated around
MEDI-PEEL Anti-aging Toner with Glutathione Versus MEDI-PEEL Peptide-Tox Bor Toner
This anti-aging toner is formulated around Niacinamide and Glutathione to soften the look of wrinkles and brighten dull-looking skin.
This anti-aging toner is formulated around Anemarrhena Asphodeloides Root Extract and Copper Tripeptide-1 to soften the look of wrinkles.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Hippophae Rhamnoides Water
Glycerin
Dipropylene Glycol
Propanediol
Niacinamide
1,2-Hexanediol
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Water
PPG-13-Decyltetradeceth-24
Hydroxyacetophenone
Caprylyl Glycol
Hydrogenated Lecithin
Carbomer
Glutathione
Tromethamine
Cetearyl Alcohol
Disodium EDTA
Stearic Acid
Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate
Terminalia Ferdinandiana Fruit Extract
Butylene Glycol
Lecithin
Pentylene Glycol
Acetyl Glutamine
Sodium Hyaluronate
Folic Acid
Bacillus/Soybean Ferment Extract
Oligopeptide-1
Hexapeptide-11
Oligopeptide-2
Oligopeptide-3
Hydrolyzed Pea Protein
Madecassoside
Phytosterols
Squalane
Olea Europaea Fruit Oil
Tocopherol
Polyglyceryl-10 Stearate
Panthenol
Hyaluronic Acid
Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid
Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hyaluronate
Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate
Potassium Hyaluronate
Ceramide NP
Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
Ethylhexylglycerin
Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer
Biotin
Pyridoxine
Cyanocobalamin
Riboflavin
Thiamine Hcl
Retinol
Bioflavonoids
Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate
Menadione
Acetyl Hexapeptide-8
Copper Tripeptide-1
Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4
Linoleic Acid
Beta-Carotene
Parfum
Hippophae Rhamnoides Water, Glycerin, Dipropylene Glycol, Propanediol, Niacinamide, 1,2-Hexanediol, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Water, PPG-13-Decyltetradeceth-24, Hydroxyacetophenone, Caprylyl Glycol, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Carbomer, Glutathione, Tromethamine, Cetearyl Alcohol, Disodium EDTA, Stearic Acid, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Terminalia Ferdinandiana Fruit Extract, Butylene Glycol, Lecithin, Pentylene Glycol, Acetyl Glutamine, Sodium Hyaluronate, Folic Acid, Bacillus/Soybean Ferment Extract, Oligopeptide-1, Hexapeptide-11, Oligopeptide-2, Oligopeptide-3, Hydrolyzed Pea Protein, Madecassoside, Phytosterols, Squalane, Olea Europaea Fruit Oil, Tocopherol, Polyglyceryl-10 Stearate, Panthenol, Hyaluronic Acid, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hyaluronate, Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate, Potassium Hyaluronate, Ceramide NP, Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Ethylhexylglycerin, Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer, Biotin, Pyridoxine, Cyanocobalamin, Riboflavin, Thiamine Hcl, Retinol, Bioflavonoids, Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate, Menadione, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Copper Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4, Linoleic Acid, Beta-Carotene, Parfum
Methylpropanediol
Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate
Polyglyceryl-4 Laurate
Betaine
Allantoin
Trehalose
Leontopodium Alpinum Callus Culture Extract
Saccharomyces/Rice Ferment Filtrate
Lactobacillus Ferment
Lactobacillus/Pear Juice Ferment Filtrate
Lactobacillus/Punica Granatum Fruit Ferment Extract
Lactobacillus/Soybean Ferment Extract
Saccharomyces/Barley Seed Ferment Filtrate
Lactococcus Ferment
Chondrus Crispus Extract
Jania Rubens Extract
Anemarrhena Asphodeloides Root Extract
Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract
Ocimum Sanctum Leaf Extract
Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract
Curcuma Longa Root Extract
Corallina Officinalis Extract
Hydrolyzed Collagen
Hydrolyzed Elastin
Glyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer
Arginine
Xanthan Gum
Gluconolactone
Hydrogenated Polyisobutene
Adenosine
Caprylyl/Capryl Glucoside
Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1
Water, Dipropylene Glycol, Methylpropanediol, Glycerin, 1,2-Hexanediol, Butylene Glycol, Propanediol, Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate, Polyglyceryl-4 Laurate, Betaine, Allantoin, Carbomer, Trehalose, Panthenol, Leontopodium Alpinum Callus Culture Extract, Saccharomyces/Rice Ferment Filtrate, Lactobacillus Ferment, Lactobacillus/Pear Juice Ferment Filtrate, Lactobacillus/Punica Granatum Fruit Ferment Extract, Lactobacillus/Soybean Ferment Extract, Saccharomyces/Barley Seed Ferment Filtrate, Lactococcus Ferment, Chondrus Crispus Extract, Jania Rubens Extract, Anemarrhena Asphodeloides Root Extract, Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract, Ocimum Sanctum Leaf Extract, Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract, Curcuma Longa Root Extract, Corallina Officinalis Extract, Hydrolyzed Collagen, Hydrolyzed Elastin, Sodium Hyaluronate, Glyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Arginine, Xanthan Gum, Gluconolactone, Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, Adenosine, Caprylyl/Capryl Glucoside, Tocopherol, Copper Tripeptide-1, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Ethylhexylglycerin, Disodium EDTA, Parfum
Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.
It is a:
Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin
Emollient, helping to soften skin
Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas
Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives
Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 (also known as Argireline) is a synthetic hexapeptide that is often called a "topical Botox alternative".
It works by mimicking how Botox relaxes muscles; it interferes with the signaling process that tells your facial muscles to contract. This can help soften expression lines like forehead wrinkles or crow's feet over time.
The comparison to Botox does have limits because the molecule is water-loving and relatively large.
Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 has a hard time absorbing deeply enough through the skin's outer barrier to actually reach the muscles.
So whether it truly works the way Botox does at a biological level is still up for debate, but early clinical outcomes are fairly encouraging.
A 12 week human study of a multi-ingredient regimen containing this ingredient saw:
While some studies have observed improvements in wrinkle appearance, it is important to note that more consistent results are seen in multi-ingredient formulations (vs just Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 alone).
Some research studies also used higher concentrations (up to 10%) while this ingredient is usually found in concentrations up to 0.005% in leave-on formulations.
Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Carbomer is a synthetic thickening and gelling agent. It's basically the ingredient that gives a lot of serums, gels, creams, and sunscreens their smooth, non-sticky texture.
Although legally permitted at very high levels, carbomers are normally used at concentrations below 1%.
It also needs to be neutralized to actually thicken, and because it is a large molecule, it doesn't really penetrate the skin barrier.
Allergy-wise, the risk is very low. Clinical studies show carbomers have low potential for skin irritation/sensitization even at concentrations up to 100%.
A 2024 UK study patch-tested 1,302 patients and found true allergy to the parent group of carbomer to be rare with no confirmed relevant reactions.
Copper Tripeptide-1 (GHK-Cu) is a skin repairing ingredient known for its ability to boost collagen, improve firmness, and support skin regeneration.
It is a complex made up of a naturally occurring peptide (glycine-histidine-lysine) and copper, an essential trace element.
While studying wound healing, researchers noticed GHK-Cu stimulated hair follicle enlargement and growth by keeping hair in its active growth phase longer. This has made it a promising ingredient for hair regrowth treatments.
Some people have reported increased facial hair. While GHK-Cu can make your hair follicles bigger, it usually doesn’t turn soft, barely-visible facial hairs into thick, dark ones.
Anecdotal reports suggest that overusing copper peptides might lead to premature aging due to excess free copper or enzyme imbalances. This claim isn’t backed by large-scale studies.
Unfortunately, there are limited human studies for this ingredient. While early results are promising, many studies are either small, in-vitro, or not rigorously controlled.
For example, there is a 1998 study that explored the effects of copper tripeptide, vitamin C, tretinoin, and melatonin on skin repair and collagen synthesis.
After one month, increased procollagen production was seen in 7 out of 10 participants using copper tripeptide (more than those using vitamin C, melatonin, or tretinoin.
While the study was exploratory, it offers early evidence that copper tripeptide may support collagen production. Larger, well-designed trials are still needed to confirm its potential and understand individual responses.
Read more about other common types of peptides here:
Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate comes from licorice root.
Extracts of licorice have demonstrated to have antibacterial, anti‐inflammatory, antiviral, antioxidant properties.
One component, glabridin, has extra potent antioxidant and soothing properties. It has also been found to block pigmentation from UVB rays in guinea pigs.
Licorice Root also contains a flavonoid. Flavonoids are a natural substance from in plants. Flavonoids also have antioxidant properties.
Another component, glycyrrhizin, has been found to have anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial benefits. This may make licorice root extract effective at treating acne. However, more research is needed to support this.
Liquiritin is one of the flavone compounds found in licorice. It has been found to help lighten skin by preventing tyrosinase from reacting with tyrosine. When the two react, protein is converted to melanin. Melanin is the substance in your body that gives your features pigmentation.
Licorice root is native to Southern Europe and Asia. It has been used in traditional Chinese medicine to help with respiratory issues.
Dipropylene Glycol is a synthetically created humectant, stabilizer, and solvent.
This ingredient helps:
Dipropylene glycol is technically an alcohol, but it belongs to the glycol family (often considered part of the ‘good’ alcohols). This means it is hydrating and gentle on skin unlike drying solvent alcohols like denatured alcohol.
As a masking agent, Dipropylene Glycol can be used to cover the smell of other ingredients. However, it does not have a scent.
Studies show Dipropylene Glycol is considered safe to use in skincare.
Disodium EDTA is a chelating agent. It grabs onto and deactivates metal ions that sneak into your products from water, packaging, or air.
This ingredient mainly works behind the scenes and helps with:
On top of that, this ingredient can counteract the effects of hard water by binding to the minerals in it.
One thing worth knowing is that Disodium EDTA has been shown to be a mild penetration enhancer. It can help other ingredients absorb into skin more effectively which can be a double-edged sword (great for actives, but can also make the active too strong if you have sensitive skin).
Clinical patch testing showed no significant skin irritation at typical use concentrations and minimal dermal absorption.
You'll most likely see this ingredient near the end of an ingredient list. It's typically found in concentrations less than 1%.
Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
You might know this ingredient as Matrixyl. It is a synthetic peptide made up of five amino acids attached to a palmitic acid, a fatty acid that helps it absorb into skin more easily.
As a signal peptide, Matrixyl acts like a little messenger. Once it reaches your skin cells, it tells them to ramp up production of collagen, elastin, and other proteins that keep skin looking firm and smooth.
A 12 week clinical study found that a moisturizer containing just 3 ppm of Matrixyl led to a significant improvement in fine-lines and wrinkles. Another study showed an 18% reduction in wrinkle depth, 37% reduction in wrinkle thickness, and a 21% improvement in skin firmness after just 28 days of twice-daily use.
The coolest part is that it works at incredibly low concentrations (like 0.0003%) and it plays well with other actives.
The CIR (Cosmetic Ingredient Review) panel found it to be non-sensitizing across multiple tests and human patch tests also showed no irritation or sensitization.
Fun fact: Matrixyl was originally developed by French company Sederma and Procter & Gamble.
Panthenol is a common ingredient that helps hydrate and soothe the skin. It is found naturally in our skin and hair.
There are two forms of panthenol: D and L.
D-panthenol is also known as dexpanthenol. Most cosmetics use dexpanthenol or a mixture of D and L-panthenol.
Panthenol is famous due to its ability to go deeper into the skin's layers. Using this ingredient has numerous pros (and no cons):
Like hyaluronic acid, panthenol is a humectant. Humectants are able to bind and hold large amounts of water to keep skin hydrated.
This ingredient works well for wound healing. It works by increasing tissue in the wound and helps close open wounds.
Once oxidized, panthenol converts to pantothenic acid. Panthothenic acid is found in all living cells.
This ingredient is also referred to as pro-vitamin B5.
Parfum is a catch-all term for an ingredient or more that is used to give a scent to products.
Also called "fragrance", this ingredient can be a blend of hundreds of chemicals or plant oils. This means every product with "fragrance" or "parfum" in the ingredients list is a different mixture.
For instance, Habanolide is a proprietary trade name for a specific aroma chemical. When used as a fragrance ingredient in cosmetics, most aroma chemicals fall under the broad labeling category of “FRAGRANCE” or “PARFUM” according to EU and US regulations.
The term 'parfum' or 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term.
For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance by INCI standards.
One example is Calendula flower extract. Calendula is an essential oil that still imparts a scent or 'fragrance'.
Depending on the blend, the ingredients in the mixture can cause allergies and sensitivities on the skin. Some ingredients that are known EU allergens include linalool and citronellol.
Parfum can also be used to mask or cover an unpleasant scent.
The bottom line is: not all fragrances/parfum/ingredients are created equally. If you are worried about fragrances, we recommend taking a closer look at an ingredient. And of course, we always recommend speaking with a professional.
Propanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.
It’s often used to:
Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.
Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.
In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.
Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:
Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.
Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.
You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.
Tocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.
You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.
Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.
It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.
This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.
This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.
In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.
Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!